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Anyone any experience of body panel adhesive?


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41 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:47 AM

Does anyone here have any experience or thoughts about new fangled vehicle bodywork panel adhesive?

This sort of stuff. http://www.ebay.co.u...d014a%7Ciid%3A1

I've got a small rust hole in a car roof skin to fix and would like to avoid welding if possible as there's a risk of distortion of the roof skin due to the intense heat.
I've read up on this sort of stuff and it seems car makers are routinely using stuff like this instead of welding now. Ford, apparently, use it to assemble their pickup truck body's in the states and have done for the last 10 years or so.

My plan was to grind back to bare steel, make up a joggled repair panel to sit in the hole fitted from behind (inside the car) using the adhesive to bond the two together instead of weld.
Then once dry, filler to smooth it off followed by paint.

Question is though, is it good enough or even strong enough to do the job?
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#2 OFFLINE   beko1987

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 09:11 AM

The splitter on swmbo's Zafira was stuck on with this sort of stuff, and my god it's strong! Had to cut the splitter in several places in the end, then bend each part back until it snapped, and even then the splitter snapped and the adhesive remained! Still lots stuck on now as I can't be bothered to get it off! Snapped several Stanley blades trying to slice through the bead, cut my finger etc
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#3 OFFLINE   xtriple

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 09:26 AM

I have seen bodyshops use this stuff routinely to affix rear wing panels on MG Bs, Minis and other classics. Also, the rear wheel arch repair panel on my MX5 is done using this stuff and it is first rate fixed Mister!

 

Good stuff, done properly will outlast the car.


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#4 ONLINE   sierraman

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 09:30 AM

How quick does it go off?

#5 ONLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:17 AM

Pliogrip..... There's a trade name to misquote!!

No more dentist bills/seeds behind the false teef ;)


TS
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#6 OFFLINE   New POD

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:27 AM

Tiger seal ? That's what people use to hold CalibRE Irmshcer Body kits on.

 

http://usa.sika.com/...ation-home.html

 

Sikaflex ?


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#7 OFFLINE   xtriple

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:30 AM

It was Tiger seal that I have seen being used. Was applied and then the panel was clamped on and left. I don't know how long for but I bet it's only a few hours.


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#8 ONLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:31 AM

... Aerospace derived?

They stick the wings of the 747 on*

*other manufacturers likely do the same


TS
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#9 OFFLINE   New POD

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:33 AM

... Aerospace derived?

They stick the wings of the 747 on*

*other manufacturers likely do the same


TS

 

The rivets are only there because the public don't trust glue.


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#10 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:41 AM

There is much gluing in Aerospace, glued pieces are routinely tested to prove strength is sufficient.

It also worked on some Kit Cars, well mine anyway.


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#11 OFFLINE   barefoot

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:42 AM

Dull fact, when folk rebuild split screen vans and replace the long panel opposite the opening doors, they were originally spot welded into place, but this causes minor distortion. The folk of today cannot tolerate such imperfection and now glue them into place.


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#12 OFFLINE   BavarianRetro

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 11:05 AM

Does anyone here have any experience or thoughts about new fangled vehicle bodywork panel adhesive?

This sort of stuff. http://www.ebay.co.u...d014a%7Ciid%3A1

I've got a small rust hole in a car roof skin to fix and would like to avoid welding if possible as there's a risk of distortion of the roof skin due to the intense heat.
I've read up on this sort of stuff and it seems car makers are routinely using stuff like this instead of welding now. Ford, apparently, use it to assemble their pickup truck body's in the states and have done for the last 10 years or so.

My plan was to grind back to bare steel, make up a joggled repair panel to sit in the hole fitted from behind (inside the car) using the adhesive to bond the two together instead of weld.
Then once dry, filler to smooth it off followed by paint.

Question is though, is it good enough or even strong enough to do the job?

Exactly how I've done repairs to E24 roof skins.
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#13 OFFLINE   captain_70s

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 12:01 PM

Isn't this sort of stuff used to fit fibreglass replacement wings and such to cars which originally had them welded on? Must be sturdy enough to hold a patch onto a roof I'd have thought...


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#14 OFFLINE   jonny69

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 12:39 PM

Sikaflex and Tigerseal are flexible. Think of them like a very strong mastic. You can use them as adhesives but they are basically a gap-bridging sealant. The epoxies cure harder and are a tough adhesive. Quite a few are strong enough to glue cars together. I don't have any experience with that one mentioned, but I do work with some of the ones used to glue the wings on the 787, sticking racing cars together and for sticking the tabs on test specimens for the strongest composites.


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#15 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 12:49 PM

Brilliant advice and help guys, thanks!

It sounds like just the job then. I really don't want to try welding the roof skin. Besides the issues with heat distortion it'd mean bits of hot splatter etc possibly dropping onto the seats and headlining material which I'm keen to avoid.

I think I'll get a tube and have a go with it. The hole is small, by the time I've cleaned it back to good metal it'll be about 5-10mm square, if that.
I'll test it out on some scraps of cleaned up steel sheet and see how it does before I try it on the car.

Any particular brands or suppliers anyone recommend?
Obviously the stronger the stuff is the better as far as I'm concerned!
1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#16 ONLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 12:58 PM

LiquiMetal..?

TooChubes [self mix] @Poondland ?


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#17 ONLINE   sierraman

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 01:01 PM

Sikaflex is very adhesive, particularly to your hair when applying it overhead. There are specific adhesives for panel attachment.

I think I’m right in saying you could use one to attach a wheel arch. Don’t know if at a later date it would crack and show through the paint.
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#18 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 01:25 PM

Sikaflex is very adhesive, particularly to your hair when applying it overhead. There are specific adhesives for panel attachment.
I think I’m right in saying you could use one to attach a wheel arch. Don’t know if at a later date it would crack and show through the paint.


Actually, now you've said that I seem to remember a little kit type thing being available specifically for doing replacement wheel arches. It was marketed as being 'no welding required'.
I'll have a look on eBay and see what's available. It is the adhesive specifically for panels I'm after as apposed to sikaflex type sealers.
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1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#19 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 01:45 PM

I have also used J-B Weld with success.


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#20 OFFLINE   IainL

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 01:49 PM

I have used both Tigerseal and Sikaflex for nearly a decade on my car to attach bodykits. You can get it for about ten to fifteen quid from ebay.

Best to leave it overnight to go off. Lasts indefinitely as far ad I have experienced.

Avoid Tetramix, its expensive and fails after a year or two.
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#21 ONLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 04:08 PM

I have had a repair panel let into the top of the inner wheel arch on my T25 this way.    We didn't want to weld owing to masses of insulation between the body skins alongside it plus it would have entailed stripping out the camper interior.   I was a bit hmmm.... but that was 5 years ago.   If it does all fall apart then the van will indeed have to be stripped and done "properly"  but I have stacked a huge amount of summer van-time on the credit side already.    I guess the prep and rustproofing is what matters, though.


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#22 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 04:29 PM

I've ordered some JB weld metal adhesive, and some Araldite steel epoxy adhesive. I'll try both on some scrap steel sheet first and see what works best.

I've also ordered a tube of chemical metal putty. Once the adhesive has cured I'll stick some of this over the little patch aswell to beef it up a bit.

I think, as long as I prep the patch steel and roof section properly and clean/degrease it well it'll be fine. I'll soon find out anyway.
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#23 OFFLINE   Barry Cade.

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:22 PM

Elddis caravans are now stuck together, no screws along the awning rails and hardly anywhere else. They use Henkel adhesives and that stuff sticks and doesn't let go, it's a real bugger to get off when replacing panels etc. They call it SoLiD construction... they still leak.

 

Here's a quote from their bumff.

 

How have you tested the awning, will it blow off?

We tested in extreme conditions during the Winter of 2011. The awning was lost in the storm force winds yet the caravan awning rail was undamaged.

Note: a 250mm piece of awning rail will need 2.29 tonnes of weight applied to pull it off. The caravan will be dragged sideways before the awning rail comes off!


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#24 OFFLINE   Pillock

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:25 PM

BMW use this method widely across their cars. When mine was driven into it had to go to a bodyshop capable and certified to repair in this way.

And since all BMWs - even my half-engined one - can do 180mph constantly, it must be strong.


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#25 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:59 PM

Elddis caravans are now stuck together, no screws along the awning rails and hardly anywhere else. They use Henkel adhesives and that stuff sticks and doesn't let go, it's a real bugger to get off when replacing panels etc. They call it SoLiD construction... they still leak.

Here's a quote from their bumff.
How have you tested the awning, will it blow off?
We tested in extreme conditions during the Winter of 2011. The awning was lost in the storm force winds yet the caravan awning rail was undamaged.
Note: a 250mm piece of awning rail will need 2.29 tonnes of weight applied to pull it off. The caravan will be dragged sideways before the awning rail comes off!


As you said it's just a shame they can't make them leakproof as well :(

How do you go on re sealing them once they start leaking when they're done with that?

#26 OFFLINE   Barry Cade.

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 06:14 PM

As you said it's just a shame they can't make them leakproof as well :(

How do you go on re sealing them once they start leaking when they're done with that?

We have to basically slice the adhesive, just like you would removing a windscreen, then scrape with a blade, then surface cleaner then reseal and replace awning rail every time.


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#27 OFFLINE   beko1987

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 07:39 PM

5 to 10mm? Blimey just fill the hole with the glue and smooth it over with your finger!
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#28 OFFLINE   Timewaster

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:26 PM

How are Elises stuck, sorry bonded together?
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#29 OFFLINE   Barry Cade.

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 09:52 PM

How are Elises stuck, sorry bonded together?

I believe it's this stuff.  http://www.antala.uk...ding-adhesives/


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#30 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:31 PM

Forget Tiger Shit etc, this is the stuff you need:

 

https://www.amazon.c...e/dp/B000PEW4MI

 

With is what main dealer bodyshops use - stronger than spot welds.


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