derskine Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 It's worth doing regardless if it's interference or not, still shit to end up in the middle of nowhere with a snapped belt. The bite on my 360 was quite high so I decided to change the clutch, the clutch I took out doesn't look that bad, so that sounds right. I'd leave it till it starts slipping I think.You can adjust the cable, which might alter the bite point a little bit. Lacquer Peel and cpjitservices 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 It's worth doing regardless if it's interference or not, still shit to end up in the middle of nowhere with a snapped belt. The bite on my 360 was quite high so I decided to change the clutch, the clutch I took out doesn't look that bad, so that sounds right. I'd leave it till it starts slipping I think.You can adjust the cable, which might alter the bite point a little bit. Cable? is it not hydraulic? I've got spares in the boot, spare clutch kit and alternator as they both need replacing. Will get cambelt done after MOT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derskine Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Ah - my apologies, it's a cable on the 360 and didn't consider that the 740 would be different! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Ah - my apologies, it's a cable on the 360 and didn't consider that the 740 would be different!Im not sure lol. Looking on volvo forums it could be on a cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Quick update on the 3rd party head unit situation. I have ran fresh cable from the door speakers, through the car to the dash (only front doors at the mo) to the head unit, used the existing ISO plug (soldered new speaker wires to the White, White/grey, etc speaker colours) and connected it up... Sounds good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Dammit ... Cars dead. Think its alternator. Luckily I have a spare one in the boot - BUT thats no good when I have no tools!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDuke Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 It'll have a hydraulic clutch, which shares a reservoir with the brakes. Low fluid can cause a high bite. EDIT: Sorry, that second sentence is complete bollocks. The first one is still true, though. cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyBastard Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 This was the last post on Retro Rides from the previous owner... Spoke too soon, it's dead. Battery started dying when I was driving yesterday, got it home and got it on the charger, did about 5 miles today and it died again. The battery light has always glowed dimly and now it's bright, and a multimeter on the battery when fully charged shows 12.6v with the engine off, and 12.8v running, so that's pretty conclusive, new alternator ordered. Lacquer Peel and cpjitservices 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 That explains that then. Too much ICE has drained it. davidfowler2000 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 That explains that then. Too much ICE has drained it.Sorted. New alternator fitted, no more dim battery light, and she fires first turn of they key. Not bad for £20 - a little bit of rewiring has had to be done. Shep Shepherd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Video of Volvo will appear shortly!! CreepingJesus, Shep Shepherd, Six-cylinder and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 We have tunes! Front speakers rewired and doesnt sound half bad. anything an improvement to nil tunes. Need to get some new back speakers - get those wired in and that will be even better!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Most importantly...How does the heated rear screen work on these.. I see no lines!? As in the photo.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lankytim Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 I’ve got an LPG system for one of these, free if you want it. purplebargeken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 That looks like it has demisting vents for the rear window! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 My old saloon had one of those heated rear windows, it's like the ones modern cars use for the front windscreens with the tiny tiny heater elements in the glass. You could see them if you looked hard.Mine had a crack across the bottom corner of the screen though so there was a little strip of the heaters that didn't work. cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 That looks like it has demisting vents for the rear window! Quite a few saloons have the outlets for natural airflow there, my Saab does too. cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 That looks like it has demisting vents for the rear window!Ahhh just been out to check - yes it is air vented. Guessing its now going to mist up as easy if air is flowing from those vents all of the time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 14, 2017 Author Share Posted October 14, 2017 Horn replaced! Simple! First of many jobs. Next job is rear silencer - when it arrives. BTW, I've looked closely and I can see on the rear windscreen lines going across, so it is a heated screen! Rusty_Rocket and danthecapriman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 New Horn working, Coolant and thermostat changed at the weekend .. next task.. This will be interesting - whats the betting the pipe behind the back box is rotten meaning I need a new centre section danthecapriman and Burnside 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 Any one know if the rheostat would affect the dash, heater,cigarette lights? Was driving in the dark last night and had no dash lights at all. Checked fuses 5 and 21, they seem fine. Could only think if it is the rheostat to bypass it.... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSdriver Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Maybe the rheostat is just lacking use, wind it up and down a few times and see if that helps, otherwise it might respond to a good dose of contact cleaner. In other news I have a back bumper cover kit including side pieces for 740 saloon/estate. The black plastic bits that go over the iron girders. New old stock, never been used etc etc, open to offers - would need some sort of shitely collection epic. cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 Thanks DS I'll have a think about that, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 DS - Rheo definitely faulty have tried contact cleaning and have trying 'abusing' it and nothing - FA, Dead, Nada. Looks like a bypass is in order! On a second note, Tyres.... Am I right in thinking fatter tyres on the front will cause heavier steering? I'm debating whether or not to put the original rims backs on with new tyres of the correct size. Currently sitting on 200/205's 75s. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Does your car have PAS? I'd expect it would. But yes, wider tyres increase the footprint in contact with the ground, so that means more resistance if you like against turning/moving them. Your car should have 185/70/14 tyres, same as mine. These are perfectly fine for these cars.What are the wheels on it now? Presumably from a more modern front drive ovlov? If that's the case is the offset and all that bollocks right? I'm not sure it's the same between front drive cars and the old rear drive ones.Personally I'd go for original wheels and tyres but that's just me! cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghosty Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 The lighting dimmer switch has been bypassed on mine too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 Does your car have PAS? I'd expect it would. But yes, wider tyres increase the footprint in contact with the ground, so that means more resistance if you like against turning/moving them. Your car should have 185/70/14 tyres, same as mine. These are perfectly fine for these cars.What are the wheels on it now? Presumably from a more modern front drive ovlov? If that's the case is the offset and all that bollocks right? I'm not sure it's the same between front drive cars and the old rear drive ones.Personally I'd go for original wheels and tyres but that's just me!Currently its sitting on Volvo S80 alloys (with spacers), im sure they are 205 / 75 on the front and 200 / 75 on the back. I think I may see about getting the original rims back on - which I have in the garage Thanks for the info. danthecapriman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 I'm sure the offset is different, hence yours has spacers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 The lighting dimmer switch has been bypassed on mine too.Did you do it or not? I'm not sure which wires to bridge! On the net there is mixed info, some say black and blue, some say black and red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 I'm sure the offset is different, hence yours has spacers.Best to stick originals back on then, Its going in for MOT soon so just weighing up the options. The current tyres are about knackered, but I dont want to renew them on those rims to want/have to change the wheels over. 2x of the original rims I have, have tyres on just about road legal. 2x rims are just rims so I can whack some on those for MOT. Spacers, how do those work? Are they just bolted on with/behind the wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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