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My Volvo - 740 GL 'E' Reg


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135 replies to this topic

#91 OFFLINE   derskine

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 09:06 AM

It's worth doing regardless if it's interference or not, still shit to end up in the middle of nowhere with a snapped belt.

 

The bite on my 360 was quite high so I decided to change the clutch, the clutch I took out doesn't look that bad, so that sounds right. I'd leave it till it starts slipping I think.

You can adjust the cable, which might alter the bite point a little bit. 


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#92 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 09:22 AM

It's worth doing regardless if it's interference or not, still shit to end up in the middle of nowhere with a snapped belt.

 

The bite on my 360 was quite high so I decided to change the clutch, the clutch I took out doesn't look that bad, so that sounds right. I'd leave it till it starts slipping I think.

You can adjust the cable, which might alter the bite point a little bit. 

Cable? is it not hydraulic? 

 

I've got spares in the boot, spare clutch kit and alternator as they both need replacing. Will get cambelt done after MOT 


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#93 OFFLINE   derskine

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 09:31 AM

Ah - my apologies, it's a cable on the 360 and didn't consider that the 740 would be different!


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#94 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 10:11 AM

Ah - my apologies, it's a cable on the 360 and didn't consider that the 740 would be different!

Im not sure lol. Looking on volvo forums it could be on a cable.


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#95 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 11:53 AM

Quick update on the 3rd party head unit situation. 

 

I have ran fresh cable from the door speakers, through the car to the dash (only front doors at the mo) to the head unit, used the existing ISO plug (soldered new speaker wires to the White, White/grey, etc speaker colours) and connected it up... Sounds good. 


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#96 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 02:27 PM

Dammit ... Cars dead.

 

Think its alternator.

 

Luckily I have a spare one in the boot - BUT thats no good when I have no tools!! 


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#97 OFFLINE   MrDuke

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 04:23 PM

It'll have a hydraulic clutch, which shares a reservoir with the brakes. Low fluid can cause a high bite.

 

EDIT: Sorry, that second sentence is complete bollocks. The first one is still true, though.


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#98 ONLINE   Richard

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 04:33 PM

Swap the alternator brush packs over, you don't need much in the way of tools for that.



#99 OFFLINE   FOAD

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 06:18 PM

This was the last post on Retro Rides from the previous owner...

 

Spoke too soon, it's dead. Battery started dying when I was driving yesterday, got it home and got it on the charger, did about 5 miles today and it died again. The battery light has always glowed dimly and now it's bright, and a multimeter on the battery when fully charged shows 12.6v with the engine off, and 12.8v running, so that's pretty conclusive, new alternator ordered.

 

 

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#100 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 06:38 PM

That explains that then. Too much ICE has drained it.


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#101 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 09:34 AM

That explains that then. Too much ICE has drained it.

Sorted.

 

New alternator fitted, no more dim battery light, and she fires first turn of they key.

 

Not bad for £20 - a little bit of rewiring has had to be done.


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#102 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 09:41 AM

Video of Volvo will appear shortly!!


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#103 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:39 AM

We have tunes!

 

Front speakers rewired and doesnt sound half bad. anything an improvement to nil tunes.

 

Need to get some new back speakers - get those wired in and that will be even better!!!

 

:)


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#104 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 09:13 AM

Most importantly...

How does the heated rear screen work on these.. I see no lines!?

 

As in the photo....

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#105 OFFLINE   Lankytim

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 01:07 PM

I’ve got an LPG system for one of these, free if you want it.

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#106 OFFLINE   dollywobbler

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 01:15 PM

That looks like it has demisting vents for the rear window!

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#107 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 02:55 PM

My old saloon had one of those heated rear windows, it's like the ones modern cars use for the front windscreens with the tiny tiny heater elements in the glass. You could see them if you looked hard.
Mine had a crack across the bottom corner of the screen though so there was a little strip of the heaters that didn't work.
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#108 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 05:26 PM

That looks like it has demisting vents for the rear window!

 

Quite a few saloons have the outlets for natural airflow there, my Saab does too.


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#109 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 02:48 PM

That looks like it has demisting vents for the rear window!

Ahhh just been out to check - yes it is air vented. Guessing its now going to mist up as easy if air is flowing from those vents all of the time?


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#110 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 01:47 PM

Horn replaced!

 

Simple!

 

 

First of many jobs. Next job is rear silencer - when it arrives.

 

BTW, I've looked closely and I can see on the rear windscreen lines going across, so it is a heated screen! :)


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#111 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 09:28 AM

New Horn working, Coolant and thermostat changed at the weekend .. next task..

 

This will be interesting - whats the betting the pipe behind the back box is rotten meaning I need a new centre section ;)

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#112 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 09:05 AM

Any one know if the rheostat would affect the dash, heater,cigarette lights? Was driving in the dark last night and had no dash lights at all.

 

Checked fuses 5 and 21, they seem fine. 

 

Could only think if it is the rheostat to bypass it....

 

Thanks


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#113 OFFLINE   DSdriver

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 09:22 AM

Maybe the rheostat is just lacking use, wind it up and down a few times and see if that helps, otherwise it might respond to a good dose of contact cleaner.

 

In other news I have a back bumper cover kit including side pieces for 740 saloon/estate. The black plastic bits that go over the iron girders. New old stock, never been used etc etc, open to offers - would need some sort of shitely collection epic.


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#114 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted Yesterday, 07:59 AM

Thanks DS I'll have a think about that,


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#115 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted Yesterday, 08:01 AM

DS - Rheo definitely faulty have tried contact cleaning and have trying 'abusing' it and nothing - FA, Dead, Nada.

 

Looks like a bypass is in order!

 

 

On a second note, Tyres.... Am I right in thinking fatter tyres on the front will cause heavier steering? I'm debating whether or not to put the original rims backs on with new tyres of the correct size. Currently sitting on 200/205's 75s.

 

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#116 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted Yesterday, 08:12 AM

Does your car have PAS? I'd expect it would.

But yes, wider tyres increase the footprint in contact with the ground, so that means more resistance if you like against turning/moving them.

Your car should have 185/70/14 tyres, same as mine. These are perfectly fine for these cars.
What are the wheels on it now? Presumably from a more modern front drive ovlov? If that's the case is the offset and all that bollocks right? I'm not sure it's the same between front drive cars and the old rear drive ones.
Personally I'd go for original wheels and tyres but that's just me!
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#117 OFFLINE   Ghosty

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Posted Yesterday, 08:18 AM

The lighting dimmer switch has been bypassed on mine too.

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#118 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted Yesterday, 08:35 AM

Does your car have PAS? I'd expect it would.

But yes, wider tyres increase the footprint in contact with the ground, so that means more resistance if you like against turning/moving them.

Your car should have 185/70/14 tyres, same as mine. These are perfectly fine for these cars.
What are the wheels on it now? Presumably from a more modern front drive ovlov? If that's the case is the offset and all that bollocks right? I'm not sure it's the same between front drive cars and the old rear drive ones.
Personally I'd go for original wheels and tyres but that's just me!

Currently its sitting on Volvo S80 alloys (with spacers), im sure they are 205 / 75 on the front and 200 / 75 on the back.

 

I think I may see about getting the original rims back on - which I have in the garage 

 

Thanks for the info.


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#119 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted Yesterday, 08:38 AM

I'm sure the offset is different, hence yours has spacers.



#120 OFFLINE   cpjitservices

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Posted Yesterday, 08:39 AM

The lighting dimmer switch has been bypassed on mine too.

Did you do it or not? I'm not sure which wires to bridge! On the net there is mixed info, some say black and blue, some say black and red. 


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