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K-Seal,any good?


155V6

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Wondering if anyone has experiences of using this stuff?.The MG is showing very early signs of HGF :roll: ,I'm not whether to try some in it,or put one of my other vehicles back on the road.I have read that it's not a good idea to use it in the K-Series,but other people say it's OK.Both of the other vehicles lose a bit of water too,the Suzuki has a leaking water-pump seal,& the Fiat has a mystery leak.Any advice appreciated :)

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How many miles has your MG done? Mine is about to turn 140,000 miles and I'm pretty sure it's never had a HGF or a replacement head gasket!Best to just get the HG done. There's a bloke that does it for 400 quid, I think he lives in Ireland, and 400 quid flies him over, you pick him up and he does it on your driveway/front of your house. He's meant to be really sound, and everyone's happy with him. I can find out if you want.

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Thanks mate,I can get it done for £400,I just haven't got it at the moment due to being out of a job for a while.Mine's done 143,000 now,think the gasket's been done once but I haven't got the service history :oops: .Maybe I'd be better leaving it until I can get it fixed properly & using another vehicle,but both of my others have got problems with coolant loss too :?

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I'm no expert, but unfortunately getting it done early on whilst you still have the chance seems to be the only real option with these fancy K-series engines. Otherwise it becomes this terminally knackered thing that seemingly can't be fixed, going from owner to owner until someone gets fed up and weighs it in.I imagine putting a load of K-seal in it would have a similar effect to stopping a runaway train by staring it down as it hurtles towards you.

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I'm no expert, but unfortunately getting it done early on whilst you still have the chance seems to be the only real option with these fancy K-series engines. Otherwise it becomes this terminally knackered thing that seemingly can't be fixed, going from owner to owner until someone gets fed up and weighs it in..

Can someone elaborate here, as i looking at a cheapy freeloader 1800 K series, and i just thought it was a case of doing the CHG when it went and then all would be well again?
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I'm no expert, but unfortunately getting it done early on whilst you still have the chance seems to be the only real option with these fancy K-series engines. Otherwise it becomes this terminally knackered thing that seemingly can't be fixed, going from owner to owner until someone gets fed up and weighs it in..

Can someone elaborate here, as i looking at a cheapy freeloader 1800 K series, and i just thought it was a case of doing the CHG when it went and then all would be well again?
don't touch it with a bargepole, been told by many dealers that a freelander with a k sieries engine is more or less worthless.
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....terminally knackered thing that seemingly can't be fixed, going from owner to owner until someone gets fed up and weighs it in..

Can someone elaborate here, as i looking at a cheapy freeloader 1800 K series, and i just thought it was a case of doing the CHG when it went and then all would be well again?
don't touch it with a bargepole, been told by many dealers that a freelander with a k sieries engine is more or less worthless.
Probably why early K series Freeloaders are wel into Autoshite money territory now. For a truly truly miserable drive though, retrofit one with a 1100 K series engine...Got bummed over the last Fronterror I tried to buy, I figured there would be less competition for one of these...
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Guest Kyle

You can get K-Seal in the little blue bottle which is a "pop it in and drive it" affair, or they also do Cargo-Seal which is a copper colour liquid, retails about £8.00 compared to K-seals average £5. K-Seal managed to get a very dead Granada Scorpio DOHC some 145 miles down a motorway for me, but didn't cure it.Cargo Seal is more involved to use, you have to drain and flush and leave overnight, but I can honestly say if you follow the instructions it does work.Every car I've used it on (about 14 ish) no matter how bad the gasket fail was, it cured it and they are all still going strong some 5 years later. Some were K series Rovers too. It's even worked on BMW straight 6's and Omega 2.5. What's £8 and a couple of hours of your time?

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Can someone elaborate here, as i looking at a cheapy freeloader 1800 K series, and i just thought it was a case of doing the CHG when it went and then all would be well again?

I'm no mechanic, but as I understand it is something to do with the design of the engine, low coolant capacity and how the K-series wasn't originally designed to be bigger than a 1.4L. When the headgasket does go, it is likely to have caused enough damage that it will re-occur within a short period of time. Repairing it at that stage isn't feasible, so another engine is required, but ones with a warranty are pricey and ones which don't have could go all the way through to being fitted only to be similarly knackered. That's off the top of my head and could all be wrong.To sum up - as I understand, once the headgasket goes "properly" they are generally gone in a very bad way and no amount of cheap bottle-based solutions will ever put them right. I don't think it affects every K-series engine that badly, it's mainly the 1.6 and 1.8 16-Valve ones I think. Round-shape Rover 416s, etc.
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Guest Kyle

There is a modified gasket and bottom rail for these now.It cures the problem that well, some garages are happy to guarantee the job. The reason the 1.6 and 1.8 engines have a reputation for repeat gasket failure is it normally isn't the gasket. The liners have a habit of cracking and most people just think HGF straight away and don't bother checking the liners.

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An ex-Rover dealership mechanic once told me that the headgasket always blows at No. 1 cylinder as a result of the pipe going out the back of the head to the expansion tank, getting blocking up... hence the reason regular coolant changes are essential.Seen too many Rovers in at work purely down to hg failure.... shame when its an otherwise nice car.

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I'm no expert, but unfortunately getting it done early on whilst you still have the chance seems to be the only real option with these fancy K-series engines. Otherwise it becomes this terminally knackered thing that seemingly can't be fixed, going from owner to owner until someone gets fed up and weighs it in..

Can someone elaborate here, as i looking at a cheapy freeloader 1800 K series, and i just thought it was a case of doing the CHG when it went and then all would be well again?
Freelander 1's are crap. End of. You should see the list of "Common Faults" on Autodata for these shitboxes.
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An ex-Rover dealership mechanic once told me that the headgasket always blows at No. 1 cylinder as a result of the pipe going out the back of the head to the expansion tank, getting blocking up... hence the reason regular coolant changes are essential.Seen too many Rovers in at work purely down to hg failure.... shame when its an otherwise nice car.

Yup, I change the coolant every year in the 25 for the OAT-spec stuff, which has a 5 year life. Coolant changes on the K are pretty easy.
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Freelander 1's are crap. End of. You should see the list of "Common Faults" on Autodata for these shitboxes.

Cant access Autodata, bt honest John says:-

Pages of stuff thats bad, but mainly " Avoid early 1.8 K series"

Makes them seem like perfect Autoshite sense then, no one wants em, should be able to pick one up for scrapper money.
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Freelander 1's are crap. End of. You should see the list of "Common Faults" on Autodata for these shitboxes.

Does that include the endearing habit of reverse gear engaging when going sharply around a left hand bend? Apparently a fair number of Freeloaders were missing a detent spring for reverse selector, so that the reverse gear itself could slide forward onto the layshaft. I'd imagine the noise it makes as the box grenades is quite spectacular.Yes, they're worthless. A trader mate of mine bought a clean W plater for £400.....from a trader.
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