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Wiper arm removal - wipers now kaput


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#1 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:07 PM

Had another go at removing the wiper arm from my sharan today. I need to take it off so I can replace the wiper mechanism as I managed to fracture the o/s support. It all started with trying to change the pollen filter but there you go, try and fix one thing and make more work.

I've tried hammers, screwdrivers, crowbars (hence the broken mechanism), plusgas and swearing loudly and nothing's worked. I bought this device hoping it would be the answer but the bar at the top bends and still the little b***ard won't shift. Any suggestions? I did think about heat but I'm likely to cause nore mischief with that method.

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2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
2001 Peugeot 406 Estate GLX 2.0 Hdi - sold to a shiter
1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi - dead, engine problem

#2 OFFLINE   dave21478

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:16 PM

if I were changing the mechanism anyway I would belt the stud as hard as I could with a decent sized lump hammer.

 

Heat is no use unless you have oxy acetylene or similar...you need high power to get a LOT of heat into the arm quickly to expand it before everything else heats up too. A blowtorch is unlikely to cut it and will just heat everything else up, melt plastic etc.


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#3 OFFLINE   dollywobbler

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:22 PM

Penetrating oil and a screwdriver to lever the non-hinge end while you pull the arm. Try to rock it back and forth if you can.
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#4 OFFLINE   spartacus

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:28 PM

Is the car in everyday use? Leave the nut just on the end of the thread and use the wipers as normal, it might work it loose.
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#5 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:36 PM

if I were changing the mechanism anyway I would belt the stud as hard as I could with a decent sized lump hammer.

Heat is no use unless you have oxy acetylene or similar...you need high power to get a LOT of heat into the arm quickly to expand it before everything else heats up too. A blowtorch is unlikely to cut it and will just heat everything else up, melt plastic etc.

The problem is there's not much room to get a lump hammer in due to the way the bonnet opens. I will rule out heat based on your advice!
2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
2001 Peugeot 406 Estate GLX 2.0 Hdi - sold to a shiter
1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi - dead, engine problem

#6 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:36 PM

Penetrating oil and a screwdriver to lever the non-hinge end while you pull the arm. Try to rock it back and forth if you can.


Tried that and it won't shift even with a crowbar.
2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
2001 Peugeot 406 Estate GLX 2.0 Hdi - sold to a shiter
1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi - dead, engine problem

#7 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:38 PM

Is the car in everyday use? Leave the nut just on the end of the thread and use the wipers as normal, it might work it loose.


I will try this as running out of options. I also tried freeze spray but that didn't work either. I think it must have been on there for years.
2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
2001 Peugeot 406 Estate GLX 2.0 Hdi - sold to a shiter
1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi - dead, engine problem

#8 OFFLINE   billyboy406v6

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:52 PM

Be brave, use heat.


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#9 OFFLINE   MikeR

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:53 PM

I have used one of these on a stubborn  wiper blade , needed a piece of metal to take up the gap , but it worked !

 

20151228_205748.jpg

 

the bottle behind is to rejoice with afterwards !


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#10 ONLINE   AlabamaShrimp

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:56 PM

Have you tried hammer a bigger Sharon over the top of it?



Or what Dollywobbler said but with a much longer lever.
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#11 OFFLINE   Timewaster

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:05 PM

If it is alloy corrosion, would a soak in vinegar help?

I R not chemist.
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#12 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:08 PM

I have used one of these on a stubborn wiper blade , needed a piece of metal to take up the gap , but it worked !

20151228_205748.jpg

the bottle behind is to rejoice with afterwards !


I've tried one of them but there's not enough room behind it due to the shape of the plastic moulding.
2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
2001 Peugeot 406 Estate GLX 2.0 Hdi - sold to a shiter
1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi - dead, engine problem

#13 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:09 PM

Have you tried hammer a bigger Sharon over the top of it?

Will try this. Nothing to lever against though.

Or what Dollywobbler said but with a much longer leaver.


2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
2001 Peugeot 406 Estate GLX 2.0 Hdi - sold to a shiter
1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi - dead, engine problem

#14 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:09 PM

If it is alloy corrosion, would a soak in vinegar help?

I R not chemist.


I'll try it!
2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
2001 Peugeot 406 Estate GLX 2.0 Hdi - sold to a shiter
1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi - dead, engine problem

#15 OFFLINE   Squirrel2

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:23 PM

You could try boiling a full kettle and pouring it over the arm. It is made of alloy and will expand faster then the steel shaft. Hot water should not do any damage to this.

This method has worked countless times for me.

After you have got the arm off you go and refill the kettle and make yourself a well-deserved brew..

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#16 ONLINE   AlabamaShrimp

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:36 PM

If it's knackered can you not just saw it off?

#17 ONLINE   PiperCub

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 04:18 PM

You could try boiling a full kettle and pouring it over the arm. It is made of alloy and will expand faster then the steel shaft. Hot water should not do any damage to this.

This method has worked countless times for me.

After you have got the arm off you go and refill the kettle and make yourself a well-deserved brew..

Squirrel2

 

Was going to suggest this along with a small version of a ball-joint splitter tool.

 

Put the splitter tool on the shaft/wiper arm & wind it up as tight as you can.

 

Pour the boiling/v.hot water on the wiper arm.

 

The combination of the expansion of the arm and the tension on it will (almost) always pop it off. Worked on my old 406 that resisted all other tries at it! 



#18 OFFLINE   vaughant

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 04:28 PM

If it's knackered can you not just saw it off?


Had to do this with a track rod end on my ml, in the end had to cut through either side of the thread and break it up, was totally corroded.

Wire brush and copper greased afterwards, sorted.

Same truck would work well on this, a dremmel if available or otherwise even a hacksaw blade up and down on the side of it, may take a while but it will work.

The thread looks totally fucked on the wiper mech now though from the pictures, a good die or you may get away with a file of and hope for the best.

Always leave nuts on a few turns when hitting threads, saves loads of hassle.

#19 OFFLINE   twosmoke300

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 04:56 PM

Get a medium size pair of water pump pliers . Undo the nut on the shaft until it's flush with the thread . Position the wp pliers so one jaw is under the wiper arm and the other on top of the nut as best you can . Proceed to bray shit out of the upper wp plier jaw until the arm pops loose .

Boiling water helps too . No warranties that you won't miss and crack the screen either . I've never had this method fail . I've also never ever used water pump pliers on a water pump .
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Brilliant... late in for lunch I fired up an off-brand pot noodle and while carrying it to the lounge successfully spilled it all over myself, burned the piss out of my hand, soaked my phone with the juice, soaked a load of expense receipts I was also carrying and it hit the hall floor and just fucking exploded....it was literally dripping from the ceiling in my newly decorated hallway. The obvious and considered reaction was to throw an immediate, massive paddy and boot the fucker down the hall while screaming, which has made the whole scenario about 18 times worse.


#20 OFFLINE   twosmoke300

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 04:58 PM

Oh and I forgot to say - squeeze like buggery on the wp pliers while hitting them

One of the funniest things ive read on here - RIP Dave

 

Quote

 

Brilliant... late in for lunch I fired up an off-brand pot noodle and while carrying it to the lounge successfully spilled it all over myself, burned the piss out of my hand, soaked my phone with the juice, soaked a load of expense receipts I was also carrying and it hit the hall floor and just fucking exploded....it was literally dripping from the ceiling in my newly decorated hallway. The obvious and considered reaction was to throw an immediate, massive paddy and boot the fucker down the hall while screaming, which has made the whole scenario about 18 times worse.


#21 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 05:44 PM

Thanks for the advice. I had to call it a day as I wouldn't have had time to replace the mechanism and I need it for work tomorrow. I work very slowly. I also gave the already knackered thread a few more taps with a hammer which meant I couldn't get the nut back on properly so I'm now hoping it stays stuck together until I get chance to have another look. I don't have a tap and die set unfortunately. Didn't think to leave the nut on when hitting it but will try and remember that one!

Will try the boiling water and water pump pliers next time if it doesn't fall off before.

I need to sort my shed and garage out because I spent most of my time looking for tools that I couldn't find.

Sometimes diy maintenance is very frustrating although I did manage to successfully change the oil.
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2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
2001 Peugeot 406 Estate GLX 2.0 Hdi - sold to a shiter
1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi - dead, engine problem

#22 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 05:49 PM

 I've also never ever used water pump pliers on a water pump .

 

I've never worked out how they'd be any use on a water pump!

Mine have been worn out pressing stuck pistons in or pulling them out of brake callipers.


Opinions expressed are those of this cunt, not any other cunt. They do not represent the views of those responsible for this forum.
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#23 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 05:50 PM

Freed off a brake drum today by chucking some boiling water on it.

#24 OFFLINE   omegod

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 06:11 PM

Take the bonnet off and twat it harder


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#25 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 06:31 PM

Take the bonnet off and twat it harder


If I took the bonnet off I doubt I'd ever get it back on!
2004 VW Sharan 1.9 TDI SL - proving a very capable family wagon
1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 t-bar - currently SORN, need to use it more!

Previously...
2001 Peugeot 406 Estate GLX 2.0 Hdi - sold to a shiter
1993 Vauxhall Astra mk3 1.7D - sold to a shiter
2004 Alfa Romeo 156 2.4Jtd 20v SW - sold to a shiter
2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi - dead, engine problem

#26 OFFLINE   KruJoe

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 10:37 PM

All the good ideas have been shared, so I can only add that I had similar fun* with my sister's A1 rear wiper. So I feel your pain.

I managed it eventually, but it was a buttock-clenching episode, especially as the spindle comes through the glass.

 

P1170629.JPG

 

P1170627.JPG

 

P1170631.JPG

 

Oiled up, nut and socket for the hammer taps, grips to pull and wiggle lots...

 

P1170630.JPG

 

P1170632.JPG

 

Looking at the new arm I put on it, I theorised that they seize on so badly because the spindle splines cut their own new splines in the soft alloy hole in the wiper arm. The new one came without splines in it.

 

I know you love* your acronyms, Fred. Here's your new favourite: FFS VAG POS.


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#27 OFFLINE   doubleyeller

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 08:29 AM

The important thing that people fail to understand is the need to vary the sort of levering pressure being applied. This requires broddling! Get a wooden door-wedge, tap it into the gap, then grab the end and make the hand motion you would if finger tightening a nut. It will come off with little if any effort.


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#28 OFFLINE   chodweaver

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 08:46 AM

The device you bought looks ideal - I'd find something that doesn't bend to replace the cheese part then persevere up to the point where the jaws snapped or I'd prevailed. Also, wind it up to tension THEN chuck a bucket of kettle water on it.

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#29 OFFLINE   RichardK

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 10:39 AM

You bought the same tool I would recommend. It does need a bit of force sometimes, but I'd wind to tension then use some shock-release freeze spray on it. Put as thick a cloth as you can on the window behind though. Just in case.

 

I have that tool originally for changing the spark plugs on a Chrysler Voyager, and it's allowed me to have no stress or undue forces when changing seals/wiper parts on a few Mercedes since, so they're a good investment. Useful for things like window winders as well.


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#30 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 11:39 AM

I'd have just smashed the back window on the Audi. That would have sorted it out in a timely fashion.
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