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Zel's Motoring Adventures...Peugeot, Renault, Rover, Trabant, Invacar & A Sinclair C5 - 19/04 - HVAC Preemptive Investigation...


Zelandeth

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Been busy today... temperature dropped by a degree or two so I had to get a bunch of stuff around the house done.

 

The seat needed to come out, one of the uprights had snapped and the whole thing was a rusty mess. Luckily, unlike the seat that came out of KPL, the base frame in TPA is in decent nick.

 

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This should at least make it pretty easy to attach another seat without needing to make any permanent changes to the vehicle itself.

 

Like the Xantia one I've got buried in the back of the garage.

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Seized up gear selector removed.

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Will need to get the bulkhead access cover off to attach the new one... hoping that won't mean having to drill out every single screw this time.

Only managed to knock over about three quarters of the contents of the garage getting the spare seat out, will have a look how that lines up in a bit.

 

I don't suppose anyone knows the specs of the bolt that goes down to through the rear engine mount do they?  I've got the original one with the bolt still stuck in it, spare no. 1 came with the bolt and came apart as soon as I tried to unbolt it...so that's two with the bolt stuck, and the third one doesn't have the bolt...so ideally I need to find a new bolt.  It *looks* to be M10, though the real game is whether it came with the engine - in which case it likely will be metric so nice and simple...or if it's a bit of Invacar in which case it will be one of the flavours of Imperial and all bets are off.

 

Edit: Nope...Not M10.  Found an M10 bolt laying around in the parts box and it's slightly too narrow.  That'll be some imperial size then...yaaaay!

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Back inside now after another ill advised stint outside under the deadly laser that is the sun.

 

Eventually, after using the bottom rung of a ladder as an improvised vice, and the Exhaust Pipe of Persuasion, got the bolt out of the wrecked spare engine mount.

 

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The one actually attached to the engine I gave up on when the 1/4" driver started to bend. So it got the head cut off with the grinder.

 

The old engine mount remains were removed from the chassis and the one pictured above was bolted in place. Sorry, forgot to take a photo of that.

 

Have trial fitted the new seat. It was only bloody made to measure it looks like.

 

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The runners slot snugly up against the existing rails on both sides, so it should be a trivial matter to fabricate a suitable arrangement to clamp it in place. Or just remove the rails entirely and clamp it down with some suitably substantial U bolts...that will be far stronger than the original arrangement.

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Managed to get a couple of things done this evening.

 

Unseized the heater box. Demister was fine, heater side freed up after a bit of persuasion.

 

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Attached the gear change lever back to the gearbox itself.

 

Annoyingly I couldn't find any split pins...however I do have a whole drawer full of random nuts, bolts and washers.

 

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So easy enough to stick a lock nut on instead. I've still got the original dowel, so it's on the to do list.

 

Got seat securing method version 1.0 installed...and also got the seatbelt back in... suddenly having a seat that doesn't fall apart every time you sit in and having a seat belt it makes it seem a lot closer to being an actual car.

 

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Will need to refine the seat securing hardware a bit, but it's already better secured than I reckon it used to be! Plus the seatbelt being anchored to the chassis rather than the seat base helps.

 

Thinking about it, the seat base isn't actually permanently attached to the car - so welding the seat to it isn't out of the question.

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I think I do, purely to allow the change of tax class though.

 

Annoyingly, my usual garage don't do Class III tests...so will need to go elsewhere. It will still be getting tested every year regardless of whether it's a legal requirement.

 

Question DW, which type of drills did you find were the most effective at drilling screws out? I need to get me some in preparation for dismantling the doors as not a single one of the screws involved are interested in moving...so there's going to be some drilling involved.

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Ah yes. Forgot that bit! Likewise, TWC will be getting MOTd every year. Tester this time spotted stuff I'd missed.

 

Cobalt drill bits are your friend for screws. The big metal plates for the rollers only hold those rollers on. I removed them on one of TWC's doors hoping I could then split the inner and outer, but they're simply irrelevant. There's a lot to be said for holding a screwdriver in the screw and twatting it with a hammer though. The shock can free them off. Worked surprisingly well on TWC. Especially on the engine cover bolts.

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Thanks for that.  Will look out for some.  Sure Toolstation will have a set.

 

On the doors that came with KPL anything resembling a slot in the heads is long, long gone so drilling them out is the only option really.

 

Engine crane being borrowed this afternoon, so with a bit of luck the engine will be back in by this evening.

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Engine crane acquired. Which I reckon is actually heavier than the Invacar engine. Hopefully engine in this evening!

 

The exhaust has had several coats of "Industrial Grey" enamel which is the closest thing I can see to what was originally on it. It's been baking in the sun all afternoon.

 

post-21985-0-31090800-1530892014_thumb.jpg

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Oh for the love of...that has to have been the most frustrating few hours of the year.

 

I decided to be ambitious and have a shot at getting the engine in after dinner. Theory being that it's pretty simple, it would get cooler once the sun went down, and it would be easier with proper lifting gear.

 

Yeeeaaahh...

 

First off, it didn't get any bloody cooler. It's astonishing how sitting in a pool of your own sweat and not being able to see because it's running into your eyes. I must have lost a couple of pints.

 

I learned a few things.

 

It's a pain of an engine to lift because of a lack of proper lifting points and being distinctly off centre weight distribution. Two people would probably actually be easier I reckon than the awkward engine hoist.

 

Ants are evil little swines.

 

The rear engine mount has to be fitted it appears *after* the engine is in the car or it won't fit past it. At least with how things lined up on my car.

 

I then managed to get it nearly lined up...top of gearbox in. Could I get the blasted studs in the bottom to go in? Could I hell.

 

After a couple of hours of fighting with it I was no closer to getting the thing properly in...and was totally out of daylight.

 

Oh...and I managed to rip apart one of my gearbox mounts...Think I have one dodgy looking spare left.

 

It's been left with the engine wedged in place and balanced on the trolley jack. Will see if I have the time and inclination to look at it tomorrow.

 

It really needs to cool down...this heat is doing my head in.

 

 

I may at this point take a couple of days off it. It's FotU next weekend and between now and then I need to give the Xantia a bloody good clean inside and out, and sort the throttle on the Lada again, give it a good clean too.

 

Also... collection on Monday for the new fleet member...very excited for this. I'm also acutely aware that I'll be wanting to give it attention once it arrives on the drive because of the new toy syndrome, so beyond getting the engine secured sufficiently that it's not putting strain on anything, it may get left a bit.

 

Given that I've yet to hear anything from the DVLA and still need to sort a few things aside from the engine fitment is making getting it to FotU highly unlikely.

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Well, leaving it with the engine "nearly" in was never going to happen. That would drive me mad.

 

So I went back out today and gave it another shot.

 

No amount of shoving, shaking, levering or swearing had any effect - I just couldn't get the engine and box to slot together the last half inch.

 

Turned out that the upper bolts were holding things together with *just* enough tension that it was hanging up on something, despite things being apparently able to "wiggle" freely.

 

The moment I took the last one actually out...*clonk* it settled straight into place.

 

Fine...bolts back in...even though I've managed to misplace the final nut for the lower bellhousing...it must be nearby as I specifically put them all in a box when they came off specifically so they wouldn't disappear. Anyhow, can come back to that.

 

Ten minutes work to reconnect the throttle, choke cable and wiring. Another ten to put the exhaust back on - being far more careful to not damage my paintwork than makes any sense...

 

Looking more convincing!

 

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Sitting at a better height now too. Makes the car look far more pleasingly proportioned I reckon.

 

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Fuel is still from a can on account of the holey tank...so no fuel lines to reconnect.

 

Checked the oil level, and gave it plenty of cranking to get oil pressure back up as I suspected it would have drained back to the sump due to my manhandling while I was washing out the lower fins.

 

Primed the carb, stuck the fuel suction line into a can...she fired first compression stroke, and idled happily. I've got drive (albeit only tested for a couple of feet due to time pressures). Having not had the engine running for a while, I'd really forgotten how lovely sounding a little engine this is.

 

Last thing of the day was some gremlin hunting in the tail lights - eventually traced to a short in the supposedly brand new number plate light. Quick matter to re-engineer it to solve that issue though.

 

If time permits, she might move around the garden a bit, and hopefully will see her take the place of KPL in the garage.

 

She's very much alive now I think it's fair to say!

 

Looks a bit different to a few weeks ago doesn't she, DW!

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I think I've got one left! They look very like bushes I've seen on something else...wish I could pin it down, as that would probably make finding spares easier.

 

I reckon if I need to take the engine out again it will just be done with two pairs of hands. The hoist I think actually was more of a hinderence than a help. At least I now know a few tricks.

 

So...the to do list.

 

[] Sort brakes.

[] Sort wiper - struggling to get the assembly off as the nut is stuck on the shaft stopping me from withdrawing it through the bulkhead. It may yet fall to the angle grinder (carefully that close to the windscreen!).

[] Make two good "hybrid" doors with the top of TPA's and base of KPL's.

[] Patch up body to an extent that there are no sharp edges so it's MOT worthy.

[] Find someone to make me a fuel tank.

[] Fit new tyres.

[] Find some heater ducting (only need the bit between the left/right cylinder banks and from there to the heat exchanger...have the rest.

[] MOT.

[] DRIVE IT!

 

The list is shrinking!

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Seeing it from the back makes me want to remove the number plate, fit a motorcycle size one, french it in where the air vent is and have duct holes around the inner edge of the frenching.

 

The plate seems superfluous and knocks the proportions of the rear view off.

 

Phil

 

 

 

Edit: Think I've become used to seeing American width plates on things actually...

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Spent most of the day in the bloody garden again, so haven't really touched the cars. Could have in the evening, but got slightly sidetracked because I discovered that there was a 50th Anniversary Showing of Yellow Submarine on at the cinema, so lost a couple of hours there.

 

I have done a bit of prep for the collection mission tomorrow. Checked fluid levels on the Activa, topped up the screenwash (the light has been blinking at me for days), stuck the main toolbox, jumpleads and couple of bottles of water in the boot. Then topped the fuel up.

 

Figured you'd all want proof that TPA was indeed alive and well again...so here's a very brief cold start and drive system test.

 

[Video]

 

...about 30 seconds after this she started playing up...that will be crud back in the carb again. I get the feeling this is going to be a recurring theme.

 

The smoke at startup is only a first start issue, and it's still thinner than the correct grade.

 

Haven't heard the video on anything other than a phone speaker so I've no idea how the audio came out.

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Oh, she's got a future all right!

 

My carb I think managed to find some more gunk right after I clicked stop. However the fact that she sounds like that when it's clean says a lot.

 

All the existing lines will be getting binned when I pipe it up anyhow, and a filter will go in right at the carb end, plus will dismantle and clean the fuel pump again, as I think that's where the last remnants are hiding.

 

Will be very interested to compare engine sound in person soon, DW!

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The TN Merc has been on my wishlist for years. Decades actually.

 

It's funny how some little details can truly show the date of a design...this clearly dates back further than 1990!

 

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This wonderfully 80s bit of tat was found in the glove box.

 

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Worst bit of rust, the usual spot that TNs like to go below the windscreen.

 

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I'll be handing that to a body shop to sort. It's too visible an area for me to screw up, and she's worth spending a few quid on.

 

The front apron will need a darn good clean up. Hoping it won't disintegrate.

 

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Even if it does, at least that panel appears to be readily available, only gripe will be having to get the vinyls remade.

 

I'll get a bunch more photos tomorrow.

 

 

I can report that aside from a slightly squeaky fan belt, a dead indicator indicator and a flickering brake fluid light (the level is fine), she drives like a brand new van...not a 28 year old one.

 

Granted, this may have something to do with it.

 

post-21985-0-90336300-1531172628_thumb.jpg

 

When did you last see a TN without an intergalactic mileage?

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Astonishing the difference that a quick vacuum and wipe over of the plastics can make...

 

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Obviously the carpets in the cab need to come out for a proper clean - seat covers just slip on, so will probably go in the wash soon.

 

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If time permits I might have a shot at cleaning the outside tomorrow.

 

Did have a very brief rummage to investigate the non working dash light for the indicators as that's bugging me.

 

The bulb is fine, and the connector to the back of the warning light is sound. I did however discover the bulb that's meant to illuminate the temperature gauge dangling behind the instrument panel, so have put that back where it belongs.

 

So...more digging needed, first step will be to dig out the flasher unit and see if we have an output from the relevant pin there. Hoping the answer is no, as replacing that is easier than dealing with a wiring fault!

 

Went out for a quick run this afternoon just because I could and ran into a new friend for the van...

 

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When did you last see a Merc TN? Never mind two together...

 

Only hope I can get mine looking as tidy!

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Very nice! My first recovery truck (before we upgraded to 7.5 tonnes) was a stretched one of these. Always, always use first gear when pulling away from a standstill, even if you think it will be fine, as engaging second before everything is turning destroys gearboxes PDQ (as told to me from a retired Merc mechanic of many years standing who's judgement I trust totally)

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Thanks for the tip. Second feels a bit high for pulling off so not likely to be an issue anyhow - generally aiming to use the approach of planning ahead to minimise how often you need to come to a dead stop...less times I need to get two plus tonnes moving with 77bhp the better.

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I've not driven a Merc TN since 1997. Was a flatbed one we used on the maintenance team when I worked at Brands Hatch. Petrol engined A-reg 408 IIRC (LWB twin rear wheels). Everyone that drove it just pulled away in second and then wondered why it got through clutches. First was painfully low geared, so would be a max revs around 3mph, and the difference between 1st & 2nd was quite large.

 

This said, it didn't go wrong aside from eating clutches. Chod speed good sir.

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