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HMS Never to be Finished - Posh content


Roobarb

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So I ordered my knob and it dutifully turned up...post-20944-0-56179300-1518374765_thumb.jpg

And in the continuing style of innuendo, a quick spit and polish later, left me reasonably satisfied.

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There are a few things I'm going to change for the final one that's going to be fitted, but for now, it shows promise and has a nice weight to it.

 

If I'm honest, there hasn't been much garage action over winter. It's just so damn cold out there, that the heater is struggling to keep up.

Shivering while trying to mess with a car, takes all the fun out of it!

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Santa was nice and brought me a new alloy engine lid.post-20944-0-70586800-1518375141_thumb.jpgpost-20944-0-06081300-1518375175_thumb.jpg

It is freakishly light at 10lbs.

 

I'm glad Santa is so clued in - it turned out the old lid was really rare from a very early turbo car. It now lives is So-Cal and for only a small amount more, I get a good set of panels in return that I need for my build.

 

For some idea how rare, it looks like I'm up for:

Right front wing

Left front wing

Long hood

Front bumper

Rear bumper

 

That's pretty much all the panels I need sorted!

 

I'm still going to be small changed to death. $38 for a spring for the pedal assembly, $75 for two transmission bolts... parts for these cars are just crazy priced.

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It astounds me how 'prestige' car makers charge like wounded rhinos for any spare part you need. Bits of wire (called 'looms' apparently but two bits of wire with plastic connectors do not seem much like looms to me...) for £124 plus VAT. Or your 2 bolts for £70 utterly insane. Still, in for a penny... I like your new engine lid :)

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Long hood you say...

Yes... well it's a narrow body '74 build so I figure they just put the wrong panels on it at the factory. ????

 

I'm not cutting anything up and I'm keeping the front hood in the short hood position by using a conversion hood panel. That way, there is no welding needed to put it back if I want to. The limited amount of the car I received means it was never going to be a concors car without a more work that it was ever worth doing.

 

The foot pedal assembly was pretty badly corroded, so I tried something new (to me). This degreasing stuff:post-20944-0-09305600-1518398643_thumb.jpg

 

Followed by this derusting stuff:

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Wow - did that ever do the job! I was surprised as I partially chose it because of the 'environmentally friendly' aspect it claims (over the other derusters).

 

It's eaten all the rust and left a much stronger part than if I had ground all the rust off.

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And with a quick hit with the welder, the snapped bolts were all replaced too.

Just need to paint it and get to work on the rest of the assembly.

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It astounds me how 'prestige' car makers charge like wounded rhinos for any spare part you need. Bits of wire (called 'looms' apparently but two bits of wire with plastic connectors do not seem much like looms to me...) for £124 plus VAT. Or your 2 bolts for £70 utterly insane. Still, in for a penny... I like your new engine lid :)

Thank you. It's a bit of an extravagance on the car, but sometimes it's fun to have the odd 'trick' part. It makes the builds more fun!

 

The Porsche / Mercedes / BMW etc tax is a poor tale really, but every now and again, you can find a bargain. There are new dash tops advertised for $1280 for my car, and I would like one as mine is split in two places from front to back.

I managed to pick a really basic one (not ideal - no speaker vent / air con vents etc but new and usable) up today for $217. Okay the postage is $70, but the other option didn't include postage either.

 

Still a little concerned about the transmission bolts though. Think I might have to swallow that one and spend all of my coffee money on them :(

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Thank you. It's a bit of an extravagance on the car, but sometimes it's fun to have the odd 'trick' part. It makes the builds more fun!

 

The Porsche / Mercedes / BMW etc tax is a poor tale really, but every now and again, you can find a bargain. There are new dash tops advertised for $1280 for my car, and I would like one as mine is split in two places from front to back.

I managed to pick a really basic one (not ideal - no speaker vent / air con vents etc but new and usable) up today for $217. Okay the postage is $70, but the other option didn't include postage either.

 

Still a little concerned about the transmission bolts though. Think I might have to swallow that one and spend all of my coffee money on them :(

Fantastic thread!

 

The basic dash would suit the lightweight vibe better? Or did you plan on running AC and speakers?

 

Sent from my F3211 using Tapatalk

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Thanks all. :D

Guess I need to get my ass in gear with the build and also suss out what the spec for the bolts is.

We get a long weekend this weekend, so hopefully get some stuff underway with the car again.

 

We broke 45F here today. The first time above freezing in I don't know how long. Expecting some serious snow on Monday though. Maybe as much as a foot and a half some people are saying.

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Thanks all. :D

Guess I need to get my ass in gear with the build and also suss out what the spec for the bolts is.

We get a long weekend this weekend, so hopefully get some stuff underway with the car again.

 

We broke 45F here today. The first time above freezing in I don't know how long. Expecting some serious snow on Monday though. Maybe as much as a foot and a half some people are saying.

 

 

 

What are the bolts for?

 

Giving Porsche $75 for two bolts gives them another $75 to build shit like the Pecan, Cayennnnne and all that other water cooled junk.

 

Just say 'no'.

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  • 1 month later...

Still cleaning up the foot pedals. Next I need to buy a Zinc plating kit, before final reassembly.

 

In the meantime, I've started to work on another little problem... the key that came with the car doesn't fit a single lock. Typical estate sale nightmare sooooo

 

I've started to remove the ignition switch to see if I'm lucky and it has the paper with the key code on it. If not, to send it away to have a key match.IMG_65791520392404.JPG

The steering wheel was in the way, so that came off.

Removing the breakoff bolts and setting about the pinch bolt at the steering column, I took off the lower column cover and the drivers side kneepad. Seems to go on and on.

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Some shots of the hood packed in box no. 1

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I've built and owned a number of kitcars in my time, and I have to say, the quality of these panels equals one kit maker and leaves all the others in the dust. These really are amazing panels.

 

Just so small children don't get into trouble for having sticky fingers making parts drop off the car and break, I dropped the hood on the car and pushed up a couple of bolts. The initial fit is fantastic.

 

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Box number two :D

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I ordered metal headlamp bowls and inner liner option. I still need to read the 'destructions' but think I'll need to bond the liners in myself.

 

Even though I pushed the boat out with these, even with the liners, the fenders are still a good bit lighter than their metal equivalents- which is quite surprising.

 

Again, I'm impressed by the quality of the panels. Really rugged and sit happily flat on a flat surface.

 

As it's a backdating job, I can see straight away that various parts will have to be cut and notched - even though I bought the short hood to long hood panel, the fenders will need the impact bumper sections cut down a little.

 

I'm really excited to get to this, but I have so many other things to get done before I can get to these :rolleyes:

 

The ignition lock / key issue is the first priority!

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Finally got it out!!!!

 

A bit depressing, laying under the dash, looking up at all the random wiring mess.

Managed to sort a little of it. The central earth seemed to have shed some of its connections - which are now back in place.

627FAE21_7016_4C41_A4B6_2F16D2D99F771520

 

The electrical,connector broke as I was trying to remove it from its Happy hiding place of 40+ years so that will be more expense. Still I need a key, if I'm ever going to drive this thing.

 

Fast forward a couple of weeks and I've got the assembly back from Sierra Madre in Cal.

They have kindly (okay - I paid a ton of money for) a new master key to be made from the assembly and a couple of working keys made for the barrel.

(D71F072F_BC97_4673_AEA3_E61A4588383F1523

One using a Porsche blank and another using an OEM blank.

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SQUIRREL!!!

 

It's normal for it to snow in Minnesota in the winter, but last weekend was a doozy.

22" in two days.

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This is just from Saturday.

 

So, not wanting to be in the garage for too long, I disassembled something I didn't need to (the door handle) and started drawing it in CAD.

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Back in the day, Porsche had this type of door handle on its RSRs for racing, but made in plastic. There was tale that there is an OEM part number for this, but they were never made available to the public.

A few people have talked about grouping up to have an injection mold made, I had the idea of drawing one and then printing it.

 

Should save at least 50lbs in weight (not!).

 

The outside was reasonably easy to measure and draw - though I need to test print to make sure it's mostly right dimensionally, but the inside key barrel place is quite complicated, so... I cast it and then measured it.

 

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Added and a few surfaces cleaned...

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And a last optional addition for that extra 'Magnus W&$@ker' element (great to see a Brit abroad doing so well, but outlaw is a bit played out) that I can turn on and off as wanted.

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Sent it off for a test print to see how far off my measuring was.

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I seem to have added too much thickness to the handle. Oh well, that's why you test print I guess!

Perspective in the photos makes the plastic handle look smaller.

The handle parts seem to fit.

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And there is a HUGE weight saving... (bahahahaha!)

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That's a whole pound for two (possibly even more once I correct the handle thickness...)

Can't wait for the snow to go so I can really get back to grips with the car.

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And then there were three :)

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I still need to make sure the key barrel fits and buy some melt in nutcerts. Getting close now though.

 

The handle 'head' is a little thick still. With another 2mm off that, I think I'll be happy.

Don't think I'm going to print it with the holes though, as they seem to make it a little too bendy for the final product.

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