cobblers Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 I can remove vag immobilisers with my obd plug in box . Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkDoes it stay gone? I thought these just worked temporary? Amazing! I'm not that clever, actual very clever people worked it all out to start with, I just followed instructions! tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 I'm not that clever, actual very clever people worked it all out to start with, I just followed instructions!I followed instructions once, found in a respected Performance Mag BITD, advising route to 'easy performance upgrade'... Manufacturers 'defeat device' [red plastic plug in hole], sadly, thwarted my quest for MeggaPowah TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatdaft Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 The immob stays off, but can be easily switched on again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 Update from today. So my last Welder was shit and I didn’t trust the welds it was putting out, so went and got a Clarke 151te. Got it setup and proceeded to weld up the chassis notches and the more complicated engine mount. Stuck with disposible gas cylinders and they’re a piss take, one has lasted me one day. Shite. Anyway one side is done and I almost got the other side done (started bridging the gap you see at the top of the rail and down at the bottom too) and I ran out of gas. So I’ll now have to grind those bottom shit welds out and redo them. I’m so close to getting the engine in, looks like I’ll be buying more gas in the short term. I’d like the engine sat in by the end of the weekend really. Frankenstein sticker is relevant Pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sigmund Fraud, CreepingJesus, UltraWomble and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Bit more today. One more mount then engine time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk alf892, CreepingJesus, Pillock and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Couldn’t leave it there today. the engine is only in! Need to sort the stabiliser mount but it’s under its own weight for the first time. Fits nicely too. It’ll be coming out again to clean up welds and paint the mounts but a great way to end the day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Dave_Q, Dick Longbridge, outlaw118 and 22 others 25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New POD Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 I know you'll declare the CC change on the V5 and you'll tell your insurer, but will VOSA/DVLA want an IVA ? and will the Insurer want an Engineers Report ?We've all heard of DVLA wanting a VAT register garage to certify the CC change, but this is a lot more than that. (I mean you can get a 2.0 LET into an astra without changing the engine mounts, and can probably get a v6 3.2 Omega engine in a Nova with the same mounts - probably) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 I know you'll declare the CC change on the V5 and you'll tell your insurer, but will VOSA/DVLA want an IVA ? and will the Insurer want an Engineers Report ?We've all heard of DVLA wanting a VAT register garage to certify the CC change, but this is a lot more than that. (I mean you can get a 2.0 LET into an astra without changing the engine mounts, and can probably get a v6 3.2 Omega engine in a Nova with the same mounts - probably)Meh, dunno. The mk2 boys do this a lot. I think dvla are a bit hit and miss for proof of competency on the engine change. I’m sure I can muster something on headed paper. Insurance wise I have a few people I’m in contact with who have just declared it and paid. Not that expensive though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 FlipFlop wearers (Proton Savvy enthusiasts in ML) bemoan the Singapore rozzers pulling the 'Saxo forum/Blinggers' boyzz over and arresting them for having a 2" stainless tip! on a stock exhaust system.... FFS!! Can see it happening here... TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 FlipFlop wearers (Proton Savvy enthusiasts in ML) bemoan the Singapore rozzers pulling the 'Saxo forum/Blinggers' boyzz over and arresting them for having a 2" stainless tip! on a stock exhaust system.... FFS!! Can see it happening here... TSYeah I’m not daft enough or young enough to risk it, but I’ve got plenty of time to work it out. Worst case really I imagine it would be an hours labour from my friendly garage to get it inspected? I imagine most coopers wouldn’t recognise the engine swap unless I put a sign on it saying it had been done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk alf892 and tooSavvy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 I think work will be getting in the way over the last few days but i managed to nip a thread on one mount. Just waiting on an M10 tap, but the engines been in and out a few times yesterday just to clean up the bay and the mounts, to make it look presentable. ordered a front mount today (ex fiesta diesel, dual pass) and im almost at a stage where the engine can go in and stay in. Squeee outlaw118, tooSavvy and fiatdaft 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sofarsogood Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 DVLA accepted letter headed paper denoting an engine change no problem. Declared to insurance not too bad on price and all legal (ABF into MK1 Golf). Get out and drive it before the Internal Combustion Engine is banned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobblers Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Don't bother with the DVLA, they've made it hard work for everyone and it'll just give you a headache one way or another "Oh, you've welded a chassis leg - you need an IVA and a new registration" The penalty for trying to do the right thing is way worse than just not bothering. Make sure it's properly insured and drive it. Letting the DVLA know about an engine change that needed chassis alterations is like applying for planning permission for a garden shed within 1m of your garden boundary or notifying building regs that you're moving a socket in your kitchen - It's technically the right thing to do but in reality you're opening yourself up for a world of hurt without any real benefit. Scruffy Bodger, AMC Rebel, catsinthewelder and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaughant Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Don't bother with the DVLA, they've made it hard work for everyone and it'll just give you a headache one way or another "Oh, you've welded a chassis leg - you need an IVA and a new registration" The penalty for trying to do the right thing is way worse than just not bothering. Make sure it's properly insured and drive it. Letting the DVLA know about an engine change that needed chassis alterations is like applying for planning permission for a garden shed within 1m of your garden boundary or notifying building regs that you're moving a socket in your kitchen - It's technically the right thing to do but in reality you're opening yourself up for a world of hurt without any real benefit.Really fair statement that. Surely the only reason the chassis was welded was due to the rust you found when you removed the old broken engine? That sounds about right? pauldoubleyou and tooSavvy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 I'm sure someone on hear mentioned the easy way to deal with the dvla and engine swaps. 1. Write and tell them of capacity change 1.2-1.82. Once this has been done write and tell them the engine number has changed Apparently this stopped their systems throwing a hissy fit Scruffy Bodger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 Superb advice guys, really appreciate it. The above three posts have really helped put my mind at ease. Somehow the can of spray paint I used to paint the chassis legs after work was the colour of a telecom van (also the colour of the new focus st!?) so I’ve had to pull the engine again and repaint. Thank god I managed to slowly run a tap down one of the engine mount holes and it worked. My own fault for cross threading it. So, engine is in hopefully for the final time. Next jobs are connecting the ancillaries, fuel, gear stick etc. The gear selector cables are a bit tight so I think I’ll end up moving the stick forward an inch if I can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Dirk Diggler, Jim Bell, Dave_Q and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New POD Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Yeah I’m not daft enough or young enough to risk it, but I’ve got plenty of time to work it out. Worst case really I imagine it would be an hours labour from my friendly garage to get it inspected? I imagine most coopers wouldn’t recognise the engine swap unless I put a sign on it saying it had been done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk PM sent pauldoubleyou 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpi_matrix Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 I used to run a 16v VTS engine in a Citroen AX, it was insured properly but I never notified the DVLA as it always seemed like to much faff. The only time I got pulled over the copper didn't have a clue. I believe the fine for no tax is only £80 anyway. The engine in that was a tight squeeze, a few mm from the rad and the bulkhead Supernaut, bunglebus, pauldoubleyou and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 Not a lot picture wise except for the glorious penis that appeared, but lots of actual progress. I now have power steering, clutch pipework all done and bled (and it works), fuel hoses connected, and also gear selectors in and working properly. Put a dipstick in tonight too. Coolant hoses are next but I fucked up.. when I welded the chassis rails they seem to have contracted together a few mm.. meaning the crash bar bolt holes are slightly out. Obviously I should have bolted the crash bar on before welding.. but there you go. I really need to either cut off the captive nuts or just make new holes in the crash bar. Probably the latter as it will like everything up properly. Got some lovely 50m2 wire from work and some crimps to start on putting the battery in the boot too. Small wins building up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Jim Bell, The Moog, CreepingJesus and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Some slow progress due to a fucked back but managed to get a stool and almost finish the bay hose runs for vacuum and coolant. Realised I’m missing a maf but I’m sure a scrapper will have one. Just waiting on the postman for a brake booster hose. In the back I actually opted for a heavier gauge cable at 00awg (70mm/2) so hoping this will reduce any form of a sluggish start with the longer cable run. This sits nicely in the oem cable run and a tidy 22mm grommet through the bulkhead means I will soon have power in the bay and start the engine wiring. Tidily situated in a battery box, fused at 150amps (hope it’s enough) and vented. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk alf892, Ghosty, CGSB and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat_the_cat Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 Peak cranking amps might just be over that, but it'll quickly drop to a much lower figure once the engine is spinning. The fuse will take a while to actually blow at a small amount over its rated current, so you'll be fine. (I have a similar fuse for a Rover V8!) pauldoubleyou 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Peak cranking amps might just be over that, but it'll quickly drop to a much lower figure once the engine is spinning. The fuse will take a while to actually blow at a small amount over its rated current, so you'll be fine. (I have a similar fuse for a Rover V8!)Superb, glad you’ve said that. There’s so much info kicking about on what’s acceptable. I just wanted one next to the battery due to the long cable run. Main fuse on my Rover 416 is 150 amps so went on that. Easy swap out if it pops. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat_the_cat Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 There’s so much info kicking about on what’s acceptable. I just wanted one next to the battery due to the long cable run. Same reason as I fitted mine, after relocating the battery to the boot. I figured there was plenty of potential for short circuits! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 My Laguna V6 I think had around a 150A main fuse that was on the starter circuit too. pauldoubleyou 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 I remember popping one on a 420 i used to have a few years ago. Thing is I didnt realise it was gone as i didnt have a multimeter. Id arced the positive alt lead on the slam panel to pop it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglebus Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Looking like a superb, well thought out build so far but I'd personally keep it looking at stock as possible, I love a sleeper. tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 Looking like a superb, well thought out build so far but I'd personally keep it looking at stock as possible, I love a sleeper.I just seem to be doing small jobs at the moment which is frustrating to not see a giant amount of progress. Still lots to do, radiator and front slam panel in, intercooler in, battery leads wired up, and need to work out how to fit two driveshafts. Oh yeah and an exhaust. :/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglebus Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 The last 10% of any job takes 90% of the time. pauldoubleyou 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 I think posting here is actually spurring me to get off my arse and work on the Lupo. As my battery cable was black I created some warning tags for it so nobody decided to bite it. There’s red shrink on each ends but still fancied it. Created the battery cable fully to the starter now and a piggy back cable also from the starter to the alternator. Finally have 12v to the engine. I also made a start on the loom. Now rightly or wrongly I have decided to remove all trace of the 1.0 engine and it’s ecu wiring. So very carefully i depinned one of the two ecu plugs, numbered them against elsawin for what does what and noted what I can remove. Basically everything except live, ground, and fuel pump relay control as I can just repin these into the AUQ loom. I have a total full AUQ loom so I’ll just plug it into the engine, into the new ECU and I should only have to rewrite a few battery and grounds to get it running. Makes sense to me at least. Got the second ecu plug to depin as it’s cold as fuck oop north tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk face, Coprolalia, tooSavvy and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauldoubleyou Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Progress. Quick text but lots of pics. Vac hoses and coolant hoses ran. Radiator won’t fit. Lower mount bridges while I get one CNCd from a friend. New oil pump and sump, smf visible. Wiring next, got loads of plugs left for wires that go to the fuse box in the car. Got a bad feeling the dash is gonna have to come out yet again to wire it up correctly. Front clip and slam panel on. 50p and sikaflex works as a nice hose stopper Enjoy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk CGSB, Coprolalia, willswitchengage and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now