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Lupo 20v turbo, sounds like a good idea


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#61 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 05 September 2017 - 07:49 PM

The contents of this thread are sounding more and more similar to the Techy Thread over on the open forum every day!

It does bode well that in some cases, ECUs are "hackable" - not just for more power but I can see a future where some sensors will be NLA and the ECU can just be rewritten to use parts from other manufacturers.

A bit like the graphics card in your Asus PC failing, you just put a totally different one in and change the driver.

Losing the immobiliser is also good, no doubt there'll be insurance grumps if they knew but how many times do old cars get sent over the bridge for an immobiliser fault? Just pick and choose the features you want your car to have.


More likely to happen is that sensors will have adapter boards to convert the signal from a generic sensor to what the ECU expects. Already possible to DIY easy enough, just little need to.

Also likely possible to rewrite the firmware on ECUs. Especially not that hard, as one thing the diesel emissions scandal has highlighted is that Bosch ECUs are all the same firmware. There are constants and lookup tables that the manufacturers change to suit their needs but the basic firmware is the same. This is how remappers remove/map out the DPF and/or EGR valves.

Already with Saab ECUs the firmware has been disassembled, understood and altered.
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#62 OFFLINE   cobblers

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Posted 05 September 2017 - 09:19 PM

I can remove vag immobilisers with my obd plug in box .


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Does it stay gone? I thought these just worked temporary? Amazing!

 

I'm not that clever, actual very clever people worked it all out to start with, I just followed instructions!


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#63 OFFLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 07:30 AM

I'm not that clever, actual very clever people worked it all out to start with, I just followed instructions!

I followed instructions once, found in a respected Performance Mag BITD, advising route to 'easy performance upgrade'...

Manufacturers 'defeat device' [red plastic plug in hole], sadly, thwarted my quest for MeggaPowah :(

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35942490325_0815d58667.jpgSUCKS


#64 OFFLINE   fiatdaft

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Posted 08 September 2017 - 07:56 PM

The immob stays off, but can be easily switched on again.


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#65 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 10:57 AM

Update from today. So my last Welder was shit and I didn’t trust the welds it was putting out, so went and got a Clarke 151te. Got it setup and proceeded to weld up the chassis notches and the more complicated engine mount. Stuck with disposible gas cylinders and they’re a piss take, one has lasted me one day. Shite.

Anyway one side is done and I almost got the other side done (started bridging the gap you see at the top of the rail and down at the bottom too) and I ran out of gas. So I’ll now have to grind those bottom shit welds out and redo them.

I’m so close to getting the engine in, looks like I’ll be buying more gas in the short term. I’d like the engine sat in by the end of the weekend really.

Frankenstein sticker is relevant

Pics 5096b7c7af87fc78a65f8a4bb6fae5de.jpg3dcfdbdc68ab1a352a577288fe9fcacc.jpg41a7c9c1dd179ec42bc10687fb7b597b.jpg03cfb258534c5b0f62f58cd5597ea27f.jpg516d79a7919b377f4146964246dbc2e0.jpg


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#66 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 01:45 PM

Bit more today. One more mount then engine time eb3eb8bbb4c937446038b0fb6d0d8ed9.jpg28695c260466a67cf5fb60f5879b31b5.jpg


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#67 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 10:28 PM

Couldn’t leave it there today. the engine is only in! Need to sort the stabiliser mount but it’s under its own weight for the first time. Fits nicely too.

It’ll be coming out again to clean up welds and paint the mounts but a great way to end the day.328f9ea357d7e7709bf08177c7a1f796.jpg

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#68 OFFLINE   New POD

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 08:00 AM

I know you'll declare the CC change on the V5 and you'll tell your insurer, but will VOSA/DVLA want an IVA ? and will the Insurer want an Engineers Report ?

We've all heard of DVLA wanting a VAT register garage to certify the CC change, but this is a lot more than that. (I mean you can get a 2.0 LET into an astra without changing the engine mounts, and can probably get a v6 3.2 Omega engine in a Nova with the same mounts - probably)



#69 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 08:14 AM

I know you'll declare the CC change on the V5 and you'll tell your insurer, but will VOSA/DVLA want an IVA ? and will the Insurer want an Engineers Report ?
We've all heard of DVLA wanting a VAT register garage to certify the CC change, but this is a lot more than that. (I mean you can get a 2.0 LET into an astra without changing the engine mounts, and can probably get a v6 3.2 Omega engine in a Nova with the same mounts - probably)


Meh, dunno. The mk2 boys do this a lot. I think dvla are a bit hit and miss for proof of competency on the engine change. I’m sure I can muster something on headed paper.

Insurance wise I have a few people I’m in contact with who have just declared it and paid. Not that expensive though.


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#70 OFFLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 09:17 AM

FlipFlop wearers (Proton Savvy enthusiasts in ML) bemoan the Singapore rozzers pulling the 'Saxo forum/Blinggers' boyzz over and arresting them for having a 2" stainless tip! on a stock exhaust system.... FFS!!

Can see it happening here...

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35942490325_0815d58667.jpgSUCKS


#71 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 09:36 AM

FlipFlop wearers (Proton Savvy enthusiasts in ML) bemoan the Singapore rozzers pulling the 'Saxo forum/Blinggers' boyzz over and arresting them for having a 2" stainless tip! on a stock exhaust system.... FFS!!

Can see it happening here...

TS


Yeah I’m not daft enough or young enough to risk it, but I’ve got plenty of time to work it out. Worst case really I imagine it would be an hours labour from my friendly garage to get it inspected?

I imagine most coopers wouldn’t recognise the engine swap unless I put a sign on it saying it had been done.


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#72 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 02:28 PM

I think work will be getting in the way over the last few days but i managed to nip a thread on one mount. Just waiting on an M10 tap, but the engines been in and out a few times yesterday just to clean up the bay and the mounts, to make it look presentable. ordered a front mount today (ex fiesta diesel, dual pass) and im almost at a stage where the engine can go in and stay in. Squeee
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#73 OFFLINE   sofarsogood

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 08:30 PM

DVLA accepted letter headed paper denoting an engine change no problem. Declared to insurance not too bad on price and all legal (ABF into MK1 Golf). Get out and drive it before the Internal Combustion Engine is banned!


Does it run it on gas? Its a V8 not a patio heater.


#74 OFFLINE   cobblers

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 09:23 PM

Don't bother with the DVLA, they've made it hard work for everyone and it'll just give you a headache one way or another "Oh, you've welded a chassis leg - you need an IVA and a new registration" The penalty for trying to do the right thing is way worse than just not bothering. Make sure it's properly insured and drive it. Letting the DVLA know about an engine change that needed chassis alterations is like applying for planning permission for a garden shed within 1m of your garden boundary or notifying building regs that you're moving a socket in your kitchen - It's technically the right thing to do but in reality you're opening yourself up for a world of hurt without any real benefit.


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#75 OFFLINE   vaughant

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 09:32 PM

Don't bother with the DVLA, they've made it hard work for everyone and it'll just give you a headache one way or another "Oh, you've welded a chassis leg - you need an IVA and a new registration" The penalty for trying to do the right thing is way worse than just not bothering. Make sure it's properly insured and drive it. Letting the DVLA know about an engine change that needed chassis alterations is like applying for planning permission for a garden shed within 1m of your garden boundary or notifying building regs that you're moving a socket in your kitchen - It's technically the right thing to do but in reality you're opening yourself up for a world of hurt without any real benefit.


Really fair statement that.

Surely the only reason the chassis was welded was due to the rust you found when you removed the old broken engine?

That sounds about right?
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#76 OFFLINE   rainagain

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 06:15 AM

I'm sure someone on hear mentioned the easy way to deal with the dvla and engine swaps.
1. Write and tell them of capacity change 1.2-1.8
2. Once this has been done write and tell them the engine number has changed

Apparently this stopped their systems throwing a hissy fit
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#77 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 06:07 PM

Superb advice guys, really appreciate it. The above three posts have really helped put my mind at ease.

Somehow the can of spray paint I used to paint the chassis legs after work was the colour of a telecom van (also the colour of the new focus st!?) so I’ve had to pull the engine again and repaint.

Thank god I managed to slowly run a tap down one of the engine mount holes and it worked. My own fault for cross threading it.

So, engine is in hopefully for the final time.

a7e20ff22cf4d05719e601bb1f02ef55.jpg



Next jobs are connecting the ancillaries, fuel, gear stick etc. The gear selector cables are a bit tight so I think I’ll end up moving the stick forward an inch if I can.


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#78 OFFLINE   New POD

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 08:40 PM

Yeah I’m not daft enough or young enough to risk it, but I’ve got plenty of time to work it out. Worst case really I imagine it would be an hours labour from my friendly garage to get it inspected?

I imagine most coopers wouldn’t recognise the engine swap unless I put a sign on it saying it had been done.


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#79 OFFLINE   hpi_matrix

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Posted 20 October 2017 - 11:42 AM

I used to run a  16v VTS engine in a Citroen AX, it was insured properly but I never notified the DVLA as it always seemed like to much faff. The only time I got pulled over the copper didn't have a clue. I believe the fine for no tax is only £80 anyway.

 

The engine in that was a tight squeeze, a few mm from the rad and the bulkhead

 

dYwmWfP.jpg


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#80 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 07:57 PM

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Not a lot picture wise except for the glorious penis that appeared, but lots of actual progress.

I now have power steering, clutch pipework all done and bled (and it works), fuel hoses connected, and also gear selectors in and working properly.

Put a dipstick in tonight too.

Coolant hoses are next but I fucked up.. when I welded the chassis rails they seem to have contracted together a few mm.. meaning the crash bar bolt holes are slightly out. Obviously I should have bolted the crash bar on before welding.. but there you go. I really need to either cut off the captive nuts or just make new holes in the crash bar. Probably the latter as it will like everything up properly.

Got some lovely 50m2 wire from work and some crimps to start on putting the battery in the boot too. Small wins building up


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#81 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 07:06 PM

Some slow progress due to a fucked back but managed to get a stool and almost finish the bay hose runs for vacuum and coolant. Realised I’m missing a maf but I’m sure a scrapper will have one. Just waiting on the postman for a brake booster hose.

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In the back I actually opted for a heavier gauge cable at 00awg (70mm/2) so hoping this will reduce any form of a sluggish start with the longer cable run. This sits nicely in the oem cable run and a tidy 22mm grommet through the bulkhead means I will soon have power in the bay and start the engine wiring. Tidily situated in a battery box, fused at 150amps (hope it’s enough) and vented.

266574b5003605e5a5b3022c4aea2f7a.jpg


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#82 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 09:41 PM

Peak cranking amps might just be over that, but it'll quickly drop to a much lower figure once the engine is spinning. The fuse will take a while to actually blow at a small amount over its rated current, so you'll be fine. (I have a similar fuse for a Rover V8!)


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#83 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 09:47 PM

Peak cranking amps might just be over that, but it'll quickly drop to a much lower figure once the engine is spinning. The fuse will take a while to actually blow at a small amount over its rated current, so you'll be fine. (I have a similar fuse for a Rover V8!)


Superb, glad you’ve said that. There’s so much info kicking about on what’s acceptable. I just wanted one next to the battery due to the long cable run.

Main fuse on my Rover 416 is 150 amps so went on that. Easy swap out if it pops.


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#84 ONLINE   mat_the_cat

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 10:09 PM

There’s so much info kicking about on what’s acceptable. I just wanted one next to the battery due to the long cable run.

 

Same reason as I fitted mine, after relocating the battery to the boot. I figured there was plenty of potential for short circuits!



#85 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 22 January 2018 - 11:04 PM

My Laguna V6 I think had around a 150A main fuse that was on the starter circuit too.
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#86 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 10:35 AM

I remember popping one on a 420 i used to have a few years ago. Thing is I didnt realise it was gone as i didnt have a multimeter. Id arced the positive alt lead on the slam panel to pop it.

#87 OFFLINE   bunglebus

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 12:24 PM

Looking like a superb, well thought out build so far but I'd personally keep it looking at stock as possible, I love a sleeper.


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Fuck new cars.


#88 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 05:34 PM

Looking like a superb, well thought out build so far but I'd personally keep it looking at stock as possible, I love a sleeper.


I just seem to be doing small jobs at the moment which is frustrating to not see a giant amount of progress. Still lots to do, radiator and front slam panel in, intercooler in, battery leads wired up, and need to work out how to fit two driveshafts. Oh yeah and an exhaust. :/


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#89 OFFLINE   bunglebus

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Posted 24 January 2018 - 02:33 PM

The last 10% of any job takes 90% of the time.


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Fuck new cars.


#90 OFFLINE   pauldoubleyou

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Posted 25 January 2018 - 05:36 PM

I think posting here is actually spurring me to get off my arse and work on the Lupo.

As my battery cable was black I created some warning tags for it so nobody decided to bite it. There’s red shrink on each ends but still fancied it.

Created the battery cable fully to the starter now and a piggy back cable also from the starter to the alternator. Finally have 12v to the engine.

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I also made a start on the loom. Now rightly or wrongly I have decided to remove all trace of the 1.0 engine and it’s ecu wiring. So very carefully i depinned one of the two ecu plugs, numbered them against elsawin for what does what and noted what I can remove. Basically everything except live, ground, and fuel pump relay control as I can just repin these into the AUQ loom.

I have a total full AUQ loom so I’ll just plug it into the engine, into the new ECU and I should only have to rewrite a few battery and grounds to get it running.

Makes sense to me at least.

Got the second ecu plug to depin as it’s cold as fuck oop north tonight.

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