Jump to content

For sells: Another DAF 66 Kombi!


Fabergé Greggs

Recommended Posts

Did you replace both mushrooms ?

Nah just the one for now. The problem that I mention is just whilst testing the inlet without any mushrooms or solenoids attached with my mouth on the inlet and my fingers on the pipes.

 

There’s clearly some sort of valve in that middle section going by the diagram.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Volvo vac valve has 4 electrical terminals. An old DAF one 3.

 

Make sure you have an earth going to each side as each solenoid is independently earthed.

 

Doesn't matter if the diode is there or not on a DAF. Important for a later car with a tacho relay to avoid reverse emf spike.

 

I'll check the numbers when I get home.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aye it’s earthed both sides. I’ve connected up the solenoids independently and they both work as they should.

 

There’s a noticeable change up and down effect when driving, so all is well.

 

HOWEVER, that central bit of the valve I’d definitely restricted or something so that one side receives greater flow than the other, and that’s without anything connected. It seems it’s biased to shifting down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Upshift vacmeter in the cabin eh? 

 

No wonder I was fucked, all I had were a couple of old Werthers from past Rover ownership.

actual lols!

 

I thought I'd keep y'all posted with my learnings from other sources. This is from a convo with Volvo 300 Mac as suggested by Eddie Honda: 

 

The vacuum drawn in the primary pulley's outer chambers (assisting "change up") is indeed considerably less than the maximum depression obtained by the engine. 

 

As engine vacuum varies depending on road & engine speed, throttle position and brake activation if this were applied directly to the primary unit the result would be constantly changing vacuum assistance to the speed determined centrifugal gear changing. 

Hence the "overdrive" vacuum is regulated to 45kPa (negative). Engine vacuum can go as high 

as 70kPa (neg.) at idle but much higher under deceleration with a closed throttle.

 

A second potential problem with allowing unregulated vacuum to be drawn in the outer chambers could be a reluctance for the transmission to "change down" - remaining in "O/D" even at very low speed (try pulling away again in 4th or 5th gear in a manual box).

 

No physical damage would be caused to diaphragms by greater depression (in fact the "brake" side of the same diaphragms are subjected to this under normal operation.

Some small benefit can be gained by increasing the depression on the O/D side and in fact the vac valve on Volvo 340 models after 1979 were regulated to 50kKPa (negative).

 

If your "Change up" is not performing as you feel it should I would suggest (sorry if I'm telling you what you already know) checking for vac leaks (primary pulley cover pipe seals are a good place to start).

 

Several years ago I wrote a lengthy article on the CVT system covering theory as well as function. Aimed at the 300 owner it nevertheless included cutaway drawings of the 4way valve showing "what vacuum goes where" under various conditions and much of the general information is applicable to the Daf/Volvo 66.

 

If you think a copy would be of interest I would be happy to send you a copy.

 

Good luck - Mac.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Several years ago I wrote a lengthy article on the CVT system covering theory as well as function. Aimed at the 300 owner it nevertheless included cutaway drawings of the 4way valve showing "what vacuum goes where" under various conditions and much of the general information is applicable to the Daf/Volvo 66.

 

If you think a copy would be of interest I would be happy to send you a copy.

 

Good luck - Mac.

 

 

I'd be very interested to read Mac's lengthy article, if he obliges.

 

Sam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FTP!

 

It’s started and ran fine, then conked out 20 seconds later.

 

Fuel pump doesn’t seem to be pumping- I can draw little splashes of petrol through from the tank with a syringe so that seems all good, but the fuel lines after the pump are dry.

 

It hasn’t been that long since I last used it so it’s not as if it would have returned to the tank.

 

Defo fuel pump? Replace with electrical? They apparently aren’t serviceable on the 66.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

May be that the non-return valves on the pump aren't very healthy.

^^^^ This.

 

Had it before with a V300. If it didn't get use for a couple of days it would go dry. Pump could draw eventually with a small inline filter. Couldn't draw with a large inline filter. Then it progressed to running shit at 50mph, then later in the same trip packed up. Robbed a pump from another car solved it.

 

On the 66 I binned it and fitted a blanking plate. Electric Facet cube got fitted at the rear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's weird- when I first bought it from Ken it didn't want to draw in a similar fashion, but I've left it before for way longer periods and it's never done it again until today and it's only been 3 days since I last used it. 

 

Anyway, it's enough to convince me that I need an electric pump- I've always found that between that and electronic ignition you've got 75% of your engine problems sorted.  


On the 66 I binned it and fitted a blanking plate. Electric Facet cube got fitted at the rear.

 

Links to pump and blanking plate? I'm always cautious of too many PSI on a pump so I'm guessing something like this mounted low in the engine bay: https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/facet-posi-flow-electric-fuel-pump-15---40-psi-60104-with-filter--hose-union-2019-p.asp

 

^^ That sounds like a plan. Every Daf I have ever had drained fuel back when not used. Every single one of them.

 

Fuel line is yours when you pop over to get the rocker cover gaskets.

 

Thanks man, I do need to grab that gasket from you as I'd like to do the tappets. Fuel line was already in the boot!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I reckon a Hardi Fuel Pump is a better proposition than a Facet. Will self prime and only pumps when the pressure drops. Also gives a satisfying clicking noise when it's working all fine. If you get loads of clicking, you know you're pumping air and probably going to cut out shortly!

 

Other sources are available cheaper, but this type of ports should be alright for you I imagine.

auf214zpic1_13.jpg

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/hardi-fuel-pumps/hardi-fuel-pump-sprite-midget.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...