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For sells: Another DAF 66 Kombi!


Fabergé Greggs

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Sneaked a look this morning before work and fuck me, the hose that should be connected to the air filter is connected to the vacuum valve but dangling free at the other end- in a such a way that I never noticed.

 

Was sorely tempted to be late for work and give it a blast, but that’ll have to wait for this evening.

 

Can’t wait to see if it makes any difference..

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  • 4 weeks later...

Siberian winter start in OMGSNOKAOS. hasn’t been started for about 3 weeks of being outside (temporarily). Exhuast hasn’t been fixed yet..

 

Judging by the amount of grunting and gasping I appear to be turning into an old man.

 

 

When it hasn’t been started in a while it needs a wee bit of cranking to get the fuel flowing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So obviously instead of doing more important things, like making it usable for instance, my mind turns to designing ICE. I'm trying to make a sweet sounding system with the minimum of visual impact, that could be removed without a trace.

 

I bought a bluetooth module for an amazing £2 delivered or something, along with a tiny DC-DC voltage regulator for £1.50 to give it the 5V DC that it wants. This should mean that it'll connect automatically to my phone, no head unit needed, and no nasty wires. 

 

I'll connect this up to a tasty 80's Sony amp that I've had kicking around for years. This has 6 channels with three active crossovers, so very flexible for faffing around. It just so happens to fit like a dream under the seat too. 

 

*EXCUSE THE MESS!* This is the deteriorated underside of all the carpet offcuts that used to occupy the car.. 

IMG_0668.jpg

 

The mids and tops are going to be handled by these Pioneer speakers that I got from freecycle. They fit into the footwells as follows: 

IMG_0670.jpg

They're pretty unobtrusive and don't get in the way of your legs when driving or getting in and out. We'll see how they work out. 

 

You can't have quality sounds without a sub- I've had this CDT ES06+ for years, having been in a couple of my cars now. They're about £300 or something mental, I got it for peanuts from the 'bay years ago.  Anyway, it's tiny but packs a mighty punch in the right box. 

IMG_0667.jpg

 

Speaking of which, here's the graph of the supposed response in different box sizes. We need to aim for slightly over  0.2 cubic feet to allow for the volume of the sub itself. 

Screen_Shot_2018_03_11_at_12_44_01.png

 

This handy calculator gives us some approximate calculations using the dimensions available under the seat.   

Screen_Shot_2018_03_11_at_12_46_13.png

 

Which translates in Sketchup to: 

Screen_Shot_2018_03_11_at_16_17_06.png

 

Now I need to have the workshop at work build me the box on the sly and wire it up!                                                                        

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Great work. I'm not sure I ever mentioned how much I appreciated the upgrades you made to the BX stereo and speakers, but it really did sound nice amd a vast improvement over the set up in my silver one. It's obviously a fine art getting decent sound at the immense volume needed to drown out a clattery old XUD.

 

Must say I'm a bit ashamed how much I like the cheapo Halfords head unit and standard speakers in my current 406, but I guess it shows how much bog standard car stereo tech improved during the 1990s.

 

Anyway, make the flippin' car work

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Is .47" thick enough for the box

and

Is the amp output enough for the sub?

I reckon so- the box is tiny so I don't think it'll flex much, and it'll be nice quality maple ply. I can always brace it if it flexes. It's only a little sub and I'm not doing anything stupid with it 

 

The amp has two sub channels- bridged to give 80w RMS. Doesn't sound like much but it's from the era of conservative outputs. I think I ran a 12" sub from it one time and it seemed to cope.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had a hunch this morning that I should call my local garage and ask to use their ramps. I moved a couple of weeks ago so I've never used them before. They seemed as sound as a pound on the phone and told me to head on down. 

 

I rolled up and BLAM! What a hunch.. They were a lovely bunch, 3 generations still running the place. with an Austin A35, a Humber and a Rover P4 kicking around in various states of dreamy disrepair, not to mention the Renault 6. 

 

IMG_0806.jpg

 

I got the wee Daf up in the air and cracked on. 

 

IMG_0815.jpg

 

Old vs New

 

IMG_0816.jpg

 

Cutting away the old diaphragm 

 

IMG_0807.jpg

 

New belts going on 

 

IMG_0813.jpg

 

Getting the covers back on and clipped in with the retaining ring proved the hardest part, as it tends to ping out somewhere else as you clip it in. I  chased it around the circumference multiple times trying not to cry, until inventing the Two-Mole technique. 

 

IMG_0817.jpg

 

I fitted a NOS exhaust and excitedly went for a spin.. Hmm, still revvy, so some further adjustment needed, and there's a bit of a new vibration from the back which I'm going to attribute to the belts being not quite round yet. I'll cruise around for a bit and then re-check the belt tension. The blow test reveals the diaphragms are l leak free though, so I'm going to call the day a RESULT.  I'm also really really glad I didn't attempt this is the rain outside on the street, like I was about to. 

 

Oh, one more thing, they're looking for a set of hoses for that Renault 6- can any of you Renault botherers recommend a source? 

 

Oh, and another thing. Many thanks to Andrew on here for all the help sourcing bits and the loan of the belt tool.

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Hmm. Blowing down the tubes in the engine bay reveals no leaks and the diaphragms working as they should. 

 

With the car in neutral and engine running: 

 

Removing the big vacuum pipe (2)running from the inlet manifold to the 4 way valve causes the engine to momentarily rise in revs as it leans the mixture and then stalls. I can feel vacuum here obviously. 

 

I think the throttle microswitch is pretty well set up as I can hear a solenoid actuating in the 4 way valve when I rev the engine, but if I disconnect pipes (3) and (4), there doesn't seem to be any vacuum that I can feel coming from the valve, either at idle or a higher revs when the microswitch has actuated solenoid. Does that mean it's fucked? Should it be generating some significant vacuum? 

 

 

 

 

 

post-19900-0-96569200-1517784405.jpg

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Could a gauge that’s £1.95 INCLUDING POSTAGE from eBay possibly be any use whatsoever?

 

http://r.ebay.com/u1EpGq

 

I confess to not knowing what the units of vacuum are or what range I should be looking for.

 

Still, ONE NINETY-FIVE INCLUDING POSTAGE

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