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1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter

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1371 replies to this topic

#1351 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 08:45 PM

Never heard of Dynolite, didn't even know you could get 20w60 for cars... May consider it for the Doloshite of much fuckedness.

I have a Mann filter on the Acclaim and it is yet to explode.

This is no normal Mann filter, it's an extra long Mann filter!

I think Dynolite is an old oil french oil brand that is now owned by Moss. Now Moss just use for their own brand oils. This is the MSDS for it. The postcode is for Moss HQ.

Attached File  Safety Data Sheet_GGL812210 _GGL812250_Classic 20W60.pdf   360KB   15 downloads
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2000 Boxster - New enough to drive sublimely but old enough to nearly feel like a classic, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1352 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 08:46 PM

Drive. It.

Was impressed to see National using Mann filters when doing the £45 oil change on my Primera - was expecting Crosland or worse.
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#1353 ONLINE   320touring

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 09:52 PM

Fucksake lad..

BMW E46 m3s use 10w60 , the b series has clearances you can fist..

As the owner of the boring primera above states, at least get a wear out the oil thats in it

:)
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#1354 ONLINE   busmansholiday

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 10:03 PM

Interesting data sheet, brings back memories of the job I used to do.

Always makes me ask questions when for a European Safety Datasheet they quote ACGIH (American conference of Government Industrial Hygienists ) exposureS rather than EH40.
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#1355 OFFLINE   captain_70s

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 05:17 PM

So. Summer is looming, time for this to be recommissioned?


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#1356 ONLINE   busmansholiday

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 05:20 PM

At least your welding skills have improved so you can now sort those "little" jobs out.
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#1357 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 05:26 PM

So. Summer is looming, time for this to be recommissioned?

I really was hoping to have moved house this month. That would have meant two things. One I needed to drive it 25 odd miles to the new house, giving it a much needed run. Two it would/could live in the garage at home, making it easier to take out and do any work needed on it.

I did go up and see it last Thursday. It did look very sorry for itself. Dust and dirt has blown in through the top of the garage depositing all over it. The rust spots haven't got any worse though which is good.

Last time I took it out, it ran like crap once warmed up and lumpy/misfiring. I was thinking about this earlier and I wonder if that's because I did the tappets up a bit close (in an effort to quieten them). So once it warmed up the gap was a bit too small.

It also sounds like a bag of crap. Best way to describe it, is it's like a 30 year old Briggs and Stratton that has been run low on oil and never serviced. Quite embarrassing driving it along with it making such a god awful noise. Ideally it could do with a new oil pump and main+big end bearings. Hopefully that will increase the oil pressure a bit and make sure the top end gets some oil. Last time I had the cover off, it was running pretty dry up top.

All which I intend to do later but give it a drive first. However the house moving falling through and put a right spanner in those plans. If the 1100 was in a working and drivable state, it would be a lot easier as I can then just use the bastard MGB and when it inevitably breaks I actually have space to fix it.

I'll get something sorted soon.
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2000 Boxster - New enough to drive sublimely but old enough to nearly feel like a classic, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1358 OFFLINE   PhilA

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 05:40 PM

They all sound like that

BMC weren't exactly rolling in cash at the time that was made and the machinery making it was probably more worn than your engine is now.

It's not gonna go bang, get it hot, set the clearances HOT and go give it a jolly good thrashing. Once you have all the sticky gunk that's built up will clear out or burn off.

It's never going to sounds like a sewing machine. That's why people were unsure of Datsun and their ilk when their engines were introduced. Compare an A-series at idle to a CVCC engine and you'll know what I mean.

There's plenty of roads around there that are spectacular flat-cap and gloves. Go look up Dunkery Beacon and go drive there on a sunny day. Take a thermos and a walking stick, park up at the top and go walk up to the top of the hill. Take in the view (all the way across the Severn to Wales), enjoy the crickets chirping in the bracken and then give the brakes a run for their money on the way back down.

Go have fun in it. So long as the needle doesn't read 0 it's fine! It should smell slightly of hot oil, dusty EP90, a bit of ethylene glycol burning off and vaporizing fuel, and carpet with brake fluid slightly soaked in. That's the correct MGB experience.

Pop crackle fnnnNNNNNRRRRRRRT BuuuUUUUEEEEEE

Phil
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#1359 ONLINE   busmansholiday

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 06:09 PM

Noisey up top, shouldn't post this but...

IMG_20190414_190655.jpg

#1360 OFFLINE   captain_70s

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 06:15 PM

As long as the oil pressure hovers vaguely around book figures at a warm idle (somewhere around 20psi IIRC) I'd just drive it. Given the length of time it spends sat between short trips around town at low speeds/rpms I'd not be surprised if it was sludging up the oil passages.

 

Regardless of how I set the tappets on the Dolly it rattled like a bastard, it also seemed to have very little effect on how the car ran. I imagine the tolerances are just so vague that unless they're properly closed up it'll not really matter, that's not counting the fact it had done over 130,000 miles and was running a second hand rocker assembly. As PhilA said the machinery being used to build these cars was all pretty worn out during production and it's probably the same shagged tooling that is making repo parts now!

 

There are some people that fit aftermarket oilers to the top end of Triumph OHV engines to get it more lubricated but the accepted wisdom is that you're better off saving the oil pressure you have for the bottom end as even if the top end is a bit dry it'll take ages for it to wear out and is much cheaper/easier to replace than the crank!

 

Ignition timing and carb setup had a massive effect and seemed to require frequent tinkering and mid-trip tweaks. The 1300 in particular required weeks of quarter turns of the mixture settings on the carb until I got it running how I wanted it. The 1850HL ran decently at speed but always idled like garbage, although even now after 5 years in a field it still starts first turn of the key! 

 

The Acclaim is a different beast, even now with it's crap state of tune and unknown engine service history the clearances and way the thing is built are miles from BL's home grown standards. There is a guy on the FB page who runs his EN4 engined Civic on 5w40 with no issues, I reckon if you put that in a BL product it wouldn't even stay in the thing, let alone run properly...


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#1361 ONLINE   Mally

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 06:41 PM

I tried to imagine SiC with a flask and a walking stick, but It won't compute.


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#1362 OFFLINE   1970mgb

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 06:42 PM

I'm not sure I've ever seen or heard of a bad oil pump on one of these, and I wouldn't think about doing bearings "just because" unless I was routinely getting below ~30psi hot idle with 20W-50. IIRC, you're higher than that. Bear in mind too that short tripping and long term storage can both contribute to temporarily low oil pressure-short trips tend to cause a lot of fuel dilution of the oil, while storage can cause condensation in the oil pan. A nice long drive(30 minutes+ of spirited driving) will get the oil up warm enough to drive off a lot of these.

 

Don't expect the top end to be awash with oil-the valve train is fed via one small hole that comes up to the rearmost rocker pedestal. It has to make its way down the rocker shaft and and just kind of dribbles out on each of the rocker pedestals. Even with the cover off, I can run mine with up fast and barely get any oil splatter from it-it's not a V8 with hydraulic tappets that throws oil all over kingdom come, especially when revved.

 

Also, I wouldn't want a cold clearance much smaller than 13 thou or so, but I doubt that would cause a lumpy idle or anything of the sort. If you think the tappets are set too tight, fix it as you can burn a valve.

 

I wouldn't automatically go there, though, with rough running when hot, although it's worth checking. Assuming it checks out, double check and make sure your condenser isn't acting up or you're not having some other ignition issue. Beyond that, check the mixture when hot-if you set it "correct" when cold or less than fully warm, you can end up with a rich mixture when hot. Do the piston lift test with the engine hot and see how it responds.


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#1363 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 09:39 PM

I tried to imagine SiC with a flask and a walking stick, but It won't compute.

Especially as I don't like Tea or Coffee!
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2000 Boxster - New enough to drive sublimely but old enough to nearly feel like a classic, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1364 OFFLINE   anonymous user

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 09:42 PM

You can always have a weak lemon drink in your thermos.
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#1365 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 09:50 PM

You can always have a weak lemon drink in your thermos.

I hate squash too! It's water, orange/apple juice, cider or something with alcohol mixed in. Fizzy only if got alcohol in too.

This is not for health reasons, just I don't like them! I probably could make myself like it, but why bother? I eat enough chocolate to have enough of a sugar rush anyway.

Yes I am weird.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2000 Boxster - New enough to drive sublimely but old enough to nearly feel like a classic, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1366 OFFLINE   Exiled_Tat_Gatherer

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Posted 15 April 2019 - 09:00 AM

DAILY THE BGT - there - had to be said………..  You know it makes sense - it's the perfect time of year, before top down Porkerness demands all of your summer miles.

Definitely don't worry about rattles/noise - it's never usually to worry about until it detonates - and then it's usually only 5secs later!

 

Get her out n about dude - it's necessary


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#1367 OFFLINE   PhilA

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Posted 15 April 2019 - 12:51 PM

Damnit, the thermos is for minestrone soup!
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#1368 OFFLINE   richardthestag

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Posted 15 April 2019 - 06:24 PM

6 month old unleaded will be as effective as horse piss, put some fresh fuel in it and go for a run


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#1369 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 15 April 2019 - 07:46 PM

6 month old unleaded will be as effective as horse piss, put some fresh fuel in it and go for a run


Really?!

6 months, not 6 years
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#1370 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 15 April 2019 - 07:57 PM

I hope not, it's got a full tank of expensive Shell V-Power! Just reading that Esso doesn't put any Ethanol in their Super Unleaded. Unless you get it from Devon or Cornwall. They're special* places and seem to get it still.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2000 Boxster - New enough to drive sublimely but old enough to nearly feel like a classic, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1371 OFFLINE   1970mgb

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Posted 15 April 2019 - 09:36 PM

The gas is PROBABLY fine, but there's a reason why I put a dose of Sta-Bil in my car any time I fill it up-I never know how long it will be before I get it out again, although obviously I hope not long.

 

Granted we have to go out of our way to find gas without ethanol here-even the expensive Shell V-Power I usually use(which my higher-than-stock C/R really likes) is 10% ethanol..

 

I did invest in marine grade Sta-Bil 360, which isn't that different from the standard red kind aside from the fact that it's significantly more concentrated than the auto stuff-it takes ~1 oz. per tank as opposed to 3 oz., so the fact that it's ~1.5x more expensive by volume is actually quite a bargain.

 

I should just order a kilogram of BHT and call it a day-Sta-Bil is basically a compound similar to BHT dissolved in kerosene(not sure exactly what it is-maybe I'll shoot some in the GC-MS tomorrow) and a gram of BHT dropped in the tank during a fill up would probably do as much good.


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#1372 OFFLINE   somewhatfoolish

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 04:20 AM

Given the amount of butane they wazz into road fuel it's a wonder the stuff remains ignitable as long as it does.


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