Another day moving this onto the road, jacking it up and trying to fix this thing. Pretty sure I've done more miles in my ownership driving it on and off the drive. Getting a bit fed up with it rotting on the drive and not being able to use it. I'm currently finding the mojo for this is declining.
As usual, it starts off buying a collection of things and spending too much, with good intentions of getting many jobs done.
Main job today was getting that brake master cylinder changed. Not a job that I thought I was expecting and a bit of a pain really.
Taking the front cover off, the two bolts that hold on the master cylinder were visible.
The left is the brake master and the rubber seal on the front looks pretty tired.
One banjo bolt for the brake hydraulic circuit. Thankfully the designers kindly put a rubber bung into the cabin that allows access to it from behind the dash.
Opened up the front right bleed nipple and gave a few pumps to empty the master. Then used my Pela to suck up the remaining fluid.
All bolts removed released the master. Now that is very Haynes wording, as the bottom nut is rather inaccessible. Half hour of faffing around I managed to squeeze a spanner in there to hold it still.
Plenty of crud under there. The cap thing visible was a bit of acorn! I'll admit now, I didn't clean up the crud here. Regret that decision now, however I do intend to pull the pedal box out and give it a paint to freshen it up.
The master in all its glory. Pretty sure it's original. Gasket on the front is no longer available but doesn't seem very essential.
Removing the rubber bung, it looks rather knackered. Probably wouldn't be worth rebuilding - however I have kept it in the box of spares just in case.
To help get the bottom bolt in, I put a few blobs of superglue on the nut to hold it in place. Little neat trick is using superglue activator. This liquid causes superglue to set in seconds and especially helpful to stop the glue getting into the threads.
Next problem was bolts. The bottom bolt is supposed to have a slightly shorter bolt. Not entirely sure why, but the new master has much thicker mounting ears. This caused the shorter bolt to be too short. So I used one of the original longer mounting bolts to secure it.
As its thicker, I couldn't get a spring washer in. Instead I just gorilla tightened the bolts to make sure it doesn't come undone. Sorry for whoever (probably me...) has to undo it next!
Installation wasn't too bad. I used a zip tie to keep the plunger in while fitting to give a bit more wiggle room. Bango bolt washers were fiddly but not impossible. Luckily my hands aren't too sausage like.
Filled and bled the system. Had to use my Gunson Eezi bleeder to force fluid in and get the master cylinder initially bled as pumping the pedal had no effect. I started bleeding the front right, as I used this side to empty the master. Once done this one, the others didn't have much air in them at all - especially on the backs. Gave a few pumps with the bleed nipples open which managed to squirt fluid more out of the threads than the bleed nipple. Also cracked open the servo hydraulic line (as advised by Lockheed/Delphi) to try and get air out of there too. Only needed a litre and a half of fluid this time!
Pedal nice and firm now, but I might leave a pole pushing the pedal over night to make sure. Not 100% I've got all the air out though and probably won't be convinced for a while due to all the problem I've had with the darn thing.
Not had a chance to look at the fuel pump yet. However it kicked in and started up just fine again. It's taking quite a few clicks at startup before fully up to pressure - far more than it used to. I strongly suspect it's got rust and crud in the pipes and what possibly caused it to stop pumping previously. I don't really want to put a new pump on it until I get a new tank installed. Also need to figure how I'm going to get it to the garage for them to do - I really don't fancy doing it myself.