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1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter - 6yrs ownership & the end is potentially nigh!


SiC

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Well, at least none of this seems to have put you off owning really old cars!

 

They can be a right twat at times, admittedly. I've found from having the Capri so long that when you buy an old car that's a bit down at heel you seem to spend forever pissing about with them to get them back up to scratch again. Eventually they just turn a corner and behave themselves, most of it is fiddling with carbs and shitty ignition bits but once it's sorted they're great fun and you can keep on top of things easier.

I did loads on the Capri early on when I had it but after a couple of years tinkering and welding it's been a pretty much faultless car until rot started getting the better of it again.

 

I'm not the best one to take advice from in this respect as I don't do it enough myself, but using old cars really is the best way to keep them in good health. Giving them a good fast blast down the motorway or nice A roads and getting them good and hot does them wonders. Most of the shit I get from the Mercury is mostly my own fault for not using it enough.

I know it's hard this time of year though because of the shit awful weather and excessive road salt all over the place. I don't even do much work on my cars this time of year!

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What I do when running in new bits on an old motor is go for a 30min drive around my local area but never more than 30-45mins walking distance from home. That way if it conks out and you can't fit it at the side of the road you can at least go home and come back for it later!

 

Its definitely better to keep it in regular use as much as possible, although obviously that's not going to be easy when the thing breaks down a lot! The Dolly is steadily getting worse and worse in the running department the longer it has been sitting outside my flat despite having driven 200 miles over a mountain range with no real problems a few months ago. I was advised to not idle a car up to temp on the choke unless you absolutely had to, much better to get it fired up and driving around at low rpm, warms up faster with less wear to the engine than sitting at low rpm with cold oil, less pressure and running rich on the choke.

 

I don't think there is really any good reason to run these things on Super, I never ran the Dolly 1850 on Super except by accident with no ill effect and that's an arguably more complex engine than the old B-series which still fires up and idles even now after several years sat in a field! As long as the ignition timing is tweaked to compensate (I think on the 1300 that 10 degrees) it should be fine.

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Yeah I have a route that takes me up to a local Sainsbury's and back. I have another run too that goes up around different housing estates. The first time I broke down it was on these routes. Going to get cat food of all things! Unfortunately that time it was the fuel pump and not practical to fix at the side of the road. Apart from hitting it with the back end of a screwdriver to no avail.

 

Second time was to work and I broke down in a part of Bristol that wouldn't be too advisable to abandon and leave. Not least I could only push it around the corner and onto double yellow lines. The whole street was parked full. Leaving on double yellow would have got it towed and in the parking area without a permit would have got a £30 parking ticket. Also the very real chance it would have been broken into too.

 

That's my own biggest fear of breaking down is if it's somewhere awkward or dangerous. I.e. on a busy roundabout or single lane roadworks/street/etc. Because there isn't a lot you can do!

 

The biggest problem however is not me. It's that the more it breaks down, the less my wife trusts it. Already she refuses to go in it until I have proven it's reliable and not going to conk out. Her not going in it means it's unlikely we'd use it for longer journeys at the weekend. :?

 

Towing wise, it doesn't help that my towing rope is crap. It has no hooks on the end, only two loops. So you have to tie a knot on the end of sorts. When towing it's the pickup when it's gone slack that my wife struggled with.

 

I've been thinking of getting a new one and possibly a pole. It'll be far less stressful if I know I have an easy way of towing a car back. I.e. something the wife gets on better with.

 

Something like this:

549777551a.jpg

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-accessories-products/emergency-and-breakdown/car-tow-ropes-and-poles/?549777551&0&cc5_194

 

Any one got experience of these? Are these better than a ropes?

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"..I can see how it's so easy taking cars on, have problems and then finding you're spread too thinly trying to get them all working. Doesn't help that I'm chronically slow at fixing cars. Not helped by me getting side tracked and fixing/replacing stuff as I start a job.."

 

I never really gave much thought to hooning back up the M1 in a tatty old Toyota 'sold as seen' ;)

 

..... of course = Toyota

 

 

TS

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I never really gave much thought to hooning back up the M1 in a tatty old Toyota 'sold as seen' ;)

 

..... of course = Toyota

 

If I bought something 70s Japanese, it's unlikely I'd be having this conversation about it breaking down. Would be more of a conversation on welding. :mrgreen:

 

 

Buying a towing pole seems like an admission of defeat to me. As others have said, just build up the good karma gradually with local drives for a while and before you know it you'll have had your faith restored.

I know it sounds like that, but it could be argued that I'll be tempting fate if I don't. ;)

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I'd try it on both regular petrol & super once the tank is sorted then decide.My Midget was slightly perkier with higher octane fuel than the boggo version. I used to run Castrol Valve Master with Octane booster, it was cheaper than buying super at the time. The perkyness was enough to make it feel nicer to drive so worth it.

 

Unleaded conversion wise, I'd just run it on unleaded. Unless you thrash it it's unlikely to be an issue and if you do find the valve clearances do keep closing up it's not an expensive thing to get done if you remove the head etc. Provided you check the clearances you'll spot an issue before it damages anything & besides it'll run crap due to tight clearances (so you'll know to check things) long before it burns valves out etc.

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Ive only ever had old stuff, never had a modern car. I've rarely had any issues apart from the Mercury but that down to the engine being worn out and everything needing a refurb. I've never needed a tow pole and I don't even have breakdown...

Since I got my license in 2002 I've needed recovery twice. Once locally on a Volvo 244 with an overheated rear brake boiling the fluid away.

And then the Mercury when it died on the way home from the shippers and blew its starter motor to bits.

The Mercury was a mother f****r when it played up. If the engine cut out you basically had nothing! No brakes, no steering, nothing. You just can't use them to any effect without the engine running. It was scary at time to be honest!

It was also impossible to push the car on your own, it's just way to big and heavy.

 

With petrol, I'd see how it gets on as it is for a while, just add a bit of lead additive every fill up.

Yours has most likely still got lead 'memory' from all the years of using 4 star which leaves a coating of lead on everything even after you use unleaded for years.

All my old cars apart from the Mercury and Capri I use unleaded with an additive and it's fine.

The Mercury can use unleaded anyway as they got rid of leaded fuel very early on, the Capri I got the head converted so that's on straight unleaded too. I do still often use super unleaded though, they all run smoother on it, even the Volvo does, but the main attraction for me is the lower ethanol content in super. Is it worth the extra cost? Probably not tbh, but I still do it!

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A few interesting points raised so far !

 

Regarding fuels, can I just point out that octane numbers don't tell the whole truth ? Four-star may have been 98 octane, but I suspect it had fairly different burn characteristics to modern "super unleaded". I would therefore suggest that the OEM ignition timing is little more than a starting point, even if one opts for the more expensive fuel.

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A few interesting points raised so far !

 

Regarding fuels, can I just point out that octane numbers don't tell the whole truth ? Four-star may have been 98 octane, but I suspect it had fairly different burn characteristics to modern "super unleaded". I would therefore suggest that the OEM ignition timing is little more than a starting point, even if one opts for the more expensive fuel.

True. When I do mine I use the factory or manual as a rough guide then fine tune it by ear afterwards.

 

 

That oil should be fine SiC.

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A few interesting points raised so far !

 

Regarding fuels, can I just point out that octane numbers don't tell the whole truth ? Four-star may have been 98 octane, but I suspect it had fairly different burn characteristics to modern "super unleaded". I would therefore suggest that the OEM ignition timing is little more than a starting point, even if one opts for the more expensive fuel.

Good point. I believe Ethanol also apparently is a reasonable anti-knock additive but the oil industry couldn't patent it at the time, so wasn't liked. Modern fuels I would have thought to be much superior to regular 4 star back in the 60s/70s. Not only possible to keep stricter control thanks to automation but modern engines are extracting much more power out of the fuel and far more critical in how they burn the fuel.

 

So it's probably fine. Not least the old b-series isn't really much more than a upscaled lawn mower engine.

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Around here the higher grade fuel is just regular 87 octane with a certain amount of "octane boosting" additives measured in at the pump.

 

Makes SFA difference to the Renault, though running it on non-ethanol 87 does make a notable difference in terms of torque with my foot down (knock sensor works on it) but the fuel economy is about the same.

 

Old man says on his Sprite that 1/11 of a degree (one click on the vernier on the distributor) would noticeably move the torque band about 200-300 RPM, and that humid (or rainy) days it would like a couple degrees retard to stop it sputtering at high revs. He said brand of fuel back in the day was very variable for a moderately tuned engine (not so much for every day drivers) so picking your fuel station was something you did because you generally got the same grade and blend of fuel from one place. These days it appears to all be lower common denominator with the exception of supermarket fuel which appears to be the fuel nobody else wants to sell with so many added ingredients in to make it "burn like petrol".

 

If you'll notice, petrol doesn't smell like it used to either. Down here what passes for pump gas smells vile, in Texas it actually smells like gasoline.

 

Is Moss still down next to Wogan coffee? Used to stop in there from time to time to get bits for the Sprite.

 

 

Phil

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Regarding towing pole.

Pole is better than a rope, not as much need to brake on the towed vehicle and more stable, no snatch.

But the pole must always be kept as straight as possible between the two vehicles.

If the person being towed panics and steers in the wrong direction the bar will fold. Can cause a disaster.

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I had an elasticated tow rope which folded itself like a wicker basket. That was good for stopping itself getting fouled up under wheels and such, but doesn't help with bang/snatch from someone not paying attention to what's going on.

Did squish up nicely for storage though

 

Phil

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Picked this up earlier. 3 quid and 17 pence, so not breaking the bank. I'll swap it over at some point and see if any difference is made. Chucking it down outside right now and forecast to all day.

 

6a9458ca1a7b27a5f8d45d28a3c7adb2.jpg

 

Also fits Ford Pintos and some tractors too.

 

Is Moss still down next to Wogan coffee? Used to stop in there from time to time to get bits for the Sprite.

 

Yes! You often get the smell of roast coffee if you drive past in the mornings. Handily it's about a 8 minute or so walk from where I work too.

9cdbe21cea5d59ef47ee1a9827a7b94b.jpg

 

When I used to pass travelling into work, I always wondered how a old car part supplier (of not that many on the road) kept going. On the basis of me going in there so often, I now know why!

 

 

Probably. It's no where near that bad either. Just a small patch at the front. I probably could paint over it and ignore it but it'll bug me. I've put some rust remedy on it last month and it's not had any brown patches appear back. So looks a bit cleaner. I want to put some paint over it short term, but the weather hasn't cooperated. Either chucking it down or freezing.

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like others have said that oil pressure looks just about perfect.

 

the pipe that runs from the engine to the back of the gauge will have an air bubble in it that makes it jerky. dont worry about that. BUT if it keeps you awake at night, draw the oil pressure gauge forwards out of the dash, undo the oil pipe on the back a few turns, run the engine holding a rag over the union on the back of the gauge and it will bleed the air out of the tube. turn off engine, nip up the nut, restart and make sure the union is not leaking on the back of the gaige.

 

the exhaust is purely because you are not using it, the smell is hydrocarbons and co, try not to breath to much of it

 

you have fixed many of the potential causes for breakdown now, get out in it on the next clear day.

 

dont be frightened of it, it is only a machine

 

your tow rope with the loops on the end, get hold of a couple of bow shackles

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOW-SHACKLE-Heavy-duty-CE-marked-off-road-4x4-recovery-red-pins/282085172388?epid=696996699&hash=item41ad9624a4:m:mDnQevDNs9Wt6wDyvvkwozA

 

I tend you loop the strap around something strong like an axle and then use the box shackle the the loop and strap to hold it tight

 

you can also push the strap through the loop but this may then be too tight to pull back when you want to take the strap off again

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My MGB needed super unleaded and lead substitute (I wasn't sure so better safe than sorry), on ordinary unleaded it got really hot. It does sound like you have some air in the pipe to the oil pressure gauge, this will make it erratic and read low as air compresses and oil... don't!

 

Like me, you need to get out and use it or buy an MX5 that will sit happily in the garage for 4 months and then start first time and drive as normal :)

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Surely the air will compress the same as oil? Also, doesn't the oil in the gauge drain down when the engine is off?

 

Since I put a new radiator cap on the engine, temperature has dropped from 3/4 to a 1/4. I'm just assuming it's running at the right temp. The thermostat was replaced by the last owner not long before I bought it.

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Since I put a new radiator cap on the engine, temperature has dropped from 3/4 to a 1/4. I'm just assuming it's running at the right temp. The thermostat was replaced by the last owner not long before I bought it.

It's also bloody cold outside at the moment which affects the temperature the car runs at.

 

You'll not find out if there's any difference until you go for a decent length spin in it.

 

Go do it !

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