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1974 MGB GT - The Mustard (Mit) Mobility Scooter - Parts Acquired


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#271 OFFLINE   AMC Rebel

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 10:19 AM

Which leads me onto the question. A lot of people deride Armstrong Lever Arm shocks/dampers, what is actually wrong with them? Apart from being "old fashioned", why are they supposedly "inferior" than telescopic dampers?

To me they seem a pretty neat, compact solution. They also have the potential for greater damping reservoir than telescopic dampers.

 

I always thought they seemed to have extra complexity that wasn't needed.  I guess experience of them in Marinas (on the front) didn't fill me with joy.  One bloke I knew fitted a recon set every year to get his through MOT as they wore out so fast, but that may have been a bad reconditioner and the Marina may have been a bad implementation.


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1968 AMC Rebel SST convertible (working and road legal but in limp home mode)

1967 AMC Rebel SST convertible (superior body and originality being slowly raided for spares for the '68) Off road for at least the last 25 years

1956 Chevy 210 4 door hardtop - bought in 2000 and still in my garage - I even do a bit of work on it occasionally - long term project

2005 MG ZT-T awaiting completion of engine transplant of spare V6 after OMG HGF on the engine that "never has that problem"

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#272 OFFLINE   AMC Rebel

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 10:22 AM

Errr, FWD never handles as well as RWD at times when handling matters - ie shit weather. It's easier for a lot of people to drive nearer it's limit, which is often mistaken for better handling though.

 

Besides B's aren't that slow & they handle pretty well when maintained properly.

Well, it's hard to do a like-for-like comparison, the 80s hot hatches had more supple suspension on the whole (all independent or close to it - IIRC VWs had that bendy axle on the back), a lot less unsprung weight etc 

 

I don't dislike MGBs but I think they have limitations - and you certainly can't carry a washing machine in one nearly as easily as in, say, a Golf.


1994 Range Rover Classic "The Crying Pumpkin"

2003 Jaaaag XJ 260K miles and counting

2000 Ford Mondeo Verona 1.8 pez FOR SALE Now with new As owner

2000 Ford Puma 1.7 - Roffled and now with new AS owner

1968 AMC Rebel SST convertible (working and road legal but in limp home mode)

1967 AMC Rebel SST convertible (superior body and originality being slowly raided for spares for the '68) Off road for at least the last 25 years

1956 Chevy 210 4 door hardtop - bought in 2000 and still in my garage - I even do a bit of work on it occasionally - long term project

2005 MG ZT-T awaiting completion of engine transplant of spare V6 after OMG HGF on the engine that "never has that problem"

2005 Land Rover Discovery - for long trips and moving engines 


#273 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 11:02 AM

It's bin day tomorrow and the MGB is too far over to be able to squeeze the bin out. So it needs to move.

Before I gave it a push, I turned the ignition on to check the pump. Nothing.

Ok, let's try giving a whack with a mallet for the last time. Fetched the mallet, turned the ignition on so I knew if it was working again while I'm lumping it and ...
417371da4cb4066ecb89dea87d690e8e.jpg

*Click* *click* *click* *click*

FRIGHTENED OF THE MALLET ARE YOU??!

Might as well give the key a turn then!


Starting when cold always has been awkward. I think the carbs are set to stinking rich. Especially if you clear the throats after giving the accelerator a prod, the idle is higher.

A few more videos for your Sunday viewing pleasure.

A minute later when it's warmer, it's still running alright.


Then a warm restart.

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Current Fleet:
1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner that is like the family pet.
2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)

#274 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 11:22 AM

And that's why all classic car owners carry a hammer, it has to be an imperial hammer though.


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#275 OFFLINE   PhilA

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 01:04 PM

Preferred tool of choice on my old man's Sprite to wallop the fuel pump is the dial and handle from our old Servis washing machine. It's easy to grip and where, in modern machines there would be a small plastic spindle, this has a chunk of iron turned on a lathe with a grub screw in.

Shite all round. I had a twin SU pump off a Jag (two tanks dontchaknow) in my Victor, hooked up in parallel. That way there was a better chance of one if the damn things actually working first thing in the morning. Quite often needed a thump after the weekend. Fine, quality Skinner's Union junk.

Phil
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#276 OFFLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 02:33 PM

Fit a fake SU mechanical but actually electronic pump.   From Burlen Services.   

 

Dear, but I only use a hammer for checking the chassis legs now. 

 

 

 Edit - they still tick too!


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1963 Morry Thou

1955 Cowley

1987 VW T25 Holdsworth

1990 190E

197? Portafold Caravan

 


#277 OFFLINE   Nibblet

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:33 PM

Errr, FWD never handles as well as RWD at times when handling matters - ie shit weather. It's easier for a lot of people to drive nearer it's limit, which is often mistaken for better handling though.
 

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#278 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 08:41 PM

Which leads me onto the question. A lot of people deride Armstrong Lever Arm shocks/dampers, what is actually wrong with them? Apart from being "old fashioned", why are they supposedly "inferior" than telescopic dampers?

To me they seem a pretty neat, compact solution. They also have the potential for greater damping reservoir than telescopic dampers.

 

When I had  A60's the Lever arms were always knackered, used to go over a bump and wallow for the next 50 yards.

Cure was to fill them full of grease.


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#279 OFFLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 05:26 AM

When I had  A60's the Lever arms were always knackered, used to go over a bump and wallow for the next 50 yards.

Cure was to buy a proper Morris with telescopic shockers

FTFY!


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1963 Morry Thou

1955 Cowley

1987 VW T25 Holdsworth

1990 190E

197? Portafold Caravan

 


#280 ONLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 05:39 AM

THE M.G.CAR COMPANY LIMITED
JUSTIFYING FIRE INSURANCE
SINCE 1924


FTFY
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#281 OFFLINE   Shep Shepherd

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 05:49 AM

When it's working properly, make sure that you take it to Abingdon; even though there's now very little evidence that MGs were ever made there, apart from the original factory building and some road names, it's the law if you own a pre-1980 model, apparently. The town is worth visiting in its own right, too.


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Cars come and cars go, but The Volvo abides.

 

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The Aero - 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero 2.3 HOT manual estate.


#282 ONLINE   BavarianRetro

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 06:58 AM

I once limped an MGBGT home about 5 miles by bumping it over the cats eyes in the road to keep the fuel pump running.
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#283 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 11 September 2017 - 10:35 PM

Going to order this Brake Master cylinder, but can't quite decide which to get as several manufacturers make them.

First off is Delphi at £65. Big brand and actually bought out Lockheed brake systems (OEM to MG at the time).
s-l16001.jpg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310735128174

Next up is TRW at £48. Another big brand and now owned by ZF (known for their auto gearboxes).
7c8f_121.JPG
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381290894310

Finally there is Classic Gold at £25. A Moss own brand. Seems too cheap to be able to trust it?
s-l16001.jpg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172837466187

Being a single circuit brake system, failure is not an option! Also master cylinder replacement is apparently one of those few real pain of a jobs on the MGB. So I only want to do it once.

What would you go for and why?

I'm thinking Delphi - but that could be that I'm falling into the trap of choosing it due to price.
  • Banger Kenny likes this
Current Fleet:
1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner that is like the family pet.
2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)

#284 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 02:21 PM

Classic Gold for £25?

What else is there to say!



#285 OFFLINE   richardthestag

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 03:02 PM

normally I would strongly advise against "doing brakes on da cheep" but that is being sold by Moss

 

I am surprised that it doesnt have dual circuit brakes though


Shitroen C4 GP 2007 1.6HDi - Wife's daily

Pug 307 - son's daily runner

Range Rover Vogue 1993 - my daily runner

Daewoo Matiz 2002 - Sold

Jaguar x308 Sovereign 4 litre - nicked by Fathathestag might be up 4sayle soon

Triumph Staaag 1973 - cheaper than a mistress.. just

Range Rover 1972 - ongoing extensive restoration

Range Rover 1972 - complete shed but in line for restoration

Land Rover SIIa SWB - belongs to Fathathestag but maintained and welded by me

BMW E46 318i touring - sold to hhhugues

 


#286 OFFLINE   richardthestag

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 03:03 PM

And that's why all classic car owners carry a hammer, it has to be an imperial hammer though.

 

Land Rover owners have bigger hammers


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Shitroen C4 GP 2007 1.6HDi - Wife's daily

Pug 307 - son's daily runner

Range Rover Vogue 1993 - my daily runner

Daewoo Matiz 2002 - Sold

Jaguar x308 Sovereign 4 litre - nicked by Fathathestag might be up 4sayle soon

Triumph Staaag 1973 - cheaper than a mistress.. just

Range Rover 1972 - ongoing extensive restoration

Range Rover 1972 - complete shed but in line for restoration

Land Rover SIIa SWB - belongs to Fathathestag but maintained and welded by me

BMW E46 318i touring - sold to hhhugues

 


#287 OFFLINE   richardthestag

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 03:09 PM

BTW reckon that if you take the end cap off your fuel pump it will be full of carbon dust from the points. 

 

go solidstate


  • mercrocker likes this

Shitroen C4 GP 2007 1.6HDi - Wife's daily

Pug 307 - son's daily runner

Range Rover Vogue 1993 - my daily runner

Daewoo Matiz 2002 - Sold

Jaguar x308 Sovereign 4 litre - nicked by Fathathestag might be up 4sayle soon

Triumph Staaag 1973 - cheaper than a mistress.. just

Range Rover 1972 - ongoing extensive restoration

Range Rover 1972 - complete shed but in line for restoration

Land Rover SIIa SWB - belongs to Fathathestag but maintained and welded by me

BMW E46 318i touring - sold to hhhugues

 


#288 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 03:41 PM

normally I would strongly advise against "doing brakes on da cheep" but that is being sold by Moss
 
I am surprised that it doesnt have dual circuit brakes though


Is being sold by Moss a good thing though? I know they seem to have generally good quality products, but even in their picture it looks a bit scruffy!

Dual circuit came in later with the rubber bumper models - I think around 1977 on. Also I think the dual circuit was split between one circuit front, one rear - so loose the front and there still isn't much to stop it.
Current Fleet:
1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner that is like the family pet.
2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)

#289 OFFLINE   Noel Tidybeard

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 07:03 PM

TRW bought some of Lucas so that might be a Girling part

 

seemingly your choke aint set right the first 1/4 - 1/2 inch of travel should increase the revs without upping the mixture i used to use it like a hand throttle for pootling in traffic with my mini 1000!

 

have you got a squeeky altenator or water pump?


07 Civic spaceship- daily
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89 Sunnay L premium- hiding
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#290 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 07:08 PM

That ^^^ about the choke is true. If I remember right, the cable turns the choke arm on the carb & after that increases the idle it starts to act on the needle by pushing the housing down to richen the mixture.



#291 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 07:09 PM

TRW bought some of Lucas so that might be a Girling part

seemingly your choke aint set right the first 1/4 - 1/2 inch of travel should increase the revs without upping the mixture i used to use it like a hand throttle for pootling in traffic with my mini 1000!

Yeah the carbs are all so very wrong. They need a proper tune and sorting. When warm, it does increase the revs a bit but I think the plugs are getting too loaded up when cold. It's chucking quite a lot of white smoke out the back with the choke out and smells of unburnt fuel. The moving back in and then out of the choke made the engine bog down in that video, so I gave a tad few revs to stop it dieing and pulled out the choke again. The revs cleared the plugs and the pulling out of the choke gave high idle.

I haven't managed to start it hot or cold without having to poke the accelerator a tad. It turns over and over until you slightly press it and then she fires right up.

have you got a squeeky altenator or water pump?

Possibly. The fan was squeaking more until I put the old belt back on. I think it wasn't tensioned correctly. Still have a squeak though and I'm hoping a brand new belt that I've bought will fix it. If not I guess it'll need a new water pump and/or alternator. Alternator isn't original - it has a Lucas sticker with a rebuild date code on it of 1984.
Current Fleet:
1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner that is like the family pet.
2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)

#292 OFFLINE   Noel Tidybeard

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 07:34 PM

i used to set my mini up by means of a tickle on the plunger under the carb and regular checks of the tailpipe for a nice school trousers grey/ not quite black deposits

the choke was set up so it only ever needed 1/2 travel of the knob to start from cold any more and it would run lumpy and as soon as there was movement on temp gauge you could pretty much choke in and forget apart from the occasional bit of "primus" action now and then

once warm you could just flick the key and it would start on literally 1 turn of the starter!

 

by contrast the old mans allegro needed full choke and 2 turns on the key!


  • SiC likes this

07 Civic spaceship- daily
93 Renner 19 RNi- sulking
89 Sunnay L premium- hiding
14 Poojoe 208 ehdi feline- works (1 of 10)
 




What have you got to swap? call now on 01 811 8055


#293 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 07:47 PM

I'd whip the dashpots off the carbs & clean the insides before you set them up. It never seems to get done & really helps them run right.

 

Setting the carbs up is easy enough, just do it methodically in the correct order to get it all right.



#294 ONLINE   Asimo

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 04:42 PM

As for lever arm dampers - one of the reasons they are crap is that the moving parts are levered by a ratio of about 10:1, so the construction has to be stronger because of the levered forces as do the actual damping characteristics, the damping itself has to be ten times stiffer than in a similarly positioned telescopic damper.  The valving is crude too, possibly acceptable so back when they were designed, and for a few months use but telescopic damper valving techniques and materials have fifty or so years of progress compared to lever types.

 

Suzuki tried a lever damper on a Vtwin superbike in the 90s - not a success, they dropped the idea very quickly!

 

I tried to "improve" Morris Minor front dampers by filling them with EP90 gear oil. They were still hopeless, but the mounting bolts broke.


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#295 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 06:21 PM

One thing I liked about the lever arms on my Midget was the mounting bolt holes were slightly too large. That meant by slackening them off, placing a block of wood on the damper & twatting it inwards I got as much negative camber as the expensive new top trunnion things offered.



#296 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 04:32 PM

Solved the dilemma on which master to buy. Did a quick search on eBay for GMC150 (BL part no for it) and this came up less than a mile from my house. Listed as Used but still in its sealed packet and brand new, old stock. Was £35 posted, asked for a discount and got it for £30 collected! Probably very much worth an extra fiver over a Moss own brand.

2a34313e42ccdc45a9d8be02db601a88.jpg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122662856612

My Ford fuel cut off switch came through too. Just under £16 posted for a genuine manufacturers, new part that could save my life is not bad imo. Not sure if the current limit as I'd rather not have to run it through a relay to keep it simple.
aa149973b53b60c99383457f9fd9c973.jpg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192292161929
  • danthecapriman, Banger Kenny, somewhatfoolish and 1 other like this
Current Fleet:
1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner that is like the family pet.
2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)

#297 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted Today, 07:11 PM

If I hadn't bought mine, I'd be all over this:
s-l1600.jpg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232489175853

Which is probably a good thing I bought mine.
  • Shep Shepherd likes this
Current Fleet:
1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner that is like the family pet.
2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)

#298 OFFLINE   SiC

SiC

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Posted Today, 07:13 PM

Tomorrow I've book the day off work to use holiday up. A few errands to run in the morning first thing and then hopefully if the weather holds out I'll try and get the brake master changed and fuel pump running.

Looking at the access to the master cylinder, it's looking like a lot of swearing may be involved.
  • stripped fred likes this
Current Fleet:
1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner that is like the family pet.
2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)




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