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1972 Austin 1100 - SOLD


vulgalour

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This has been a reliable starter though! :D

 

I am a sucker for punishment at times too.

 

Plus many have probably noticed (well you really can't miss it) but I also seem to like to whine and winge a lot at times. ;)

 

(I try my best to stop myself doing it. Especially some of the worst of it!)

 

This one though I can repair and sort out at my own pace. It also is costing a lot less than other cars I've bought. This is a good thing, as if I spend less on something, I'm more prepared to get stuck in and repair it. I have this wierd physiological thing that if I've spent a lot, I get more worried about working on it - especially worried about messing it up. On this one, I'd be really hard to mess it up further. (Hopefully!)

 

I'm giving this my best shot at getting it back on the road.

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Nice, though mustard and purple gonna proper clash sitting together on the driveway.

 

Phil

I don't want to get ahead of myself, but...

 

My wife did say "If you repaint it, you're not going to keep it the same colour are you?!". So Purple is out.

 

It's the colour she hates the most on my MGB. So Harvest Gold is out.

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I think I kept the green paint from the Renault,  it's sort of bottle green.  There'll be plenty to do the whole car and then the outside would match the inside.  I would still strongly recommend not actually painting unless absolutely necessary, of course, as per the Junkman Rules of Restoration, but I don't need to paint anything green and would be happy to chuck it in with the rest of the stuff.  Not literally, like, that'd be wasteful and messy.

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I don't want to get ahead of myself, but...

My wife did say "If you repaint it, you're not going to keep it the same colour are you?!". So Purple is out.

It's the colour she hates the most on my MGB. So Harvest Gold is out.

The colour is about the only redeeming feature of your MGB :D

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SiC, I know Vulgalour will offer you plenty of support once you've got it, but feel free to send me a message if you need any further help/advice.  I've owned at least one ado16 for the last 23 years (at many times a lot more than one) and although I've sold most of my surplus spares (some of which are on/with your car) I've kept some bits back.

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SiC, I know Vulgalour will offer you plenty of support once you've got it, but feel free to send me a message if you need any further help/advice.  I've owned at least one ado16 for the last 23 years (at many times a lot more than one) and although I've sold most of my surplus spares (some of which are on/with your car) I've kept some bits back.

That would be fabulous. This is a big project for me and I'll need to learn a lot of new skills on a car that I've only ever seen at car shows and museums. Any help or assistance will be massively appreciated. :)

 

Some of the parts look like they'll be more of a challenge. Especially on stuff that isn't shared with the Mini. Also panels seems to be in bit shorter supply with Earlpart going broke. Hopefully it won't be too long before the new buyer gets up to speed with them.

 

I have already joined ado16.info (only a tenner for a year), mostly so I could download the service manual (I believe Vulgalour is supplying one too). I'm currently around quarter of my way through reading it so far after starting a couple of days ago. Seems pretty straightforward to work on.

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That is a very worthy contender for paint. What are the wheels, Rostyles?

 

However I keep reminding myself that it needs to have floors first and sills ... and clutch fixing. Plus anything/everything else (Hydragas work probably?).

 

I've been planning what steps to take on this first. I'm possibly thinking of pulling the engine (or remove whole subframe + engine powertrain package) as a very first step (after checking the clutch). This would give a chance to inspect and possibly replace the clutch if necessary. Also properly inspect those spheres (I believe subframe drop is necessary to remove them anyway), rubber mounts, suspension, brake and engine pipework. With no engine in the front, it should be easier to move around and work on too (on dollies) due to the engine+gearbox being the biggest item of mass in the car?

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If the hydrolastic hasn't deflated I'd leave well alone!  In my opinion it's a far more robust system than the later hydragas, mainly because there's no gas to escape.  Apart from the occasional weepy joint or valive it's either fine or broken.

 

The clutch is fairly easy to do in situ, although taking the engine out does give the opportunity to give both it and the engine bay a proper clean.  Being a mark 3 there's more scope for jacking the clutch end up as it doesn't have the box section on the nearside inner wing to stop it. Just don't go so far that the manifold to exhaust joint fails.

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If the hydrolastic hasn't deflated I'd leave well alone!  In my opinion it's a far more robust system than the later hydragas, mainly because there's no gas to escape.  Apart from the occasional weepy joint or valive it's either fine or broken.

 

The clutch is fairly easy to do in situ, although taking the engine out does give the opportunity to give both it and the engine bay a proper clean.  Being a mark 3 there's more scope for jacking the clutch end up as it doesn't have the box section on the nearside inner wing to stop it. Just don't go so far that the manifold to exhaust joint fails.

Really useful advice. I believe (I'd need to look back through the thread) that the suspension is fine, except one circuit has a dicky valve. IIRC it had fibreglass or some other crap stuck in it.

 

Is it easier to remove the whole front subframe as a powertrain combo or is removing the engine+transmission on its own easy enough?

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Definitely easier to remove the engine/gearbox on their own.  Assuming it's late enough to have inner cv joints rather than rubber couplings it's do-able in an hour or so if nothing's too stuck (although I suspect I've got quicker with practice so maytbe allow a bit more!).  The rubber couplings take a bit longer but can be undone with a spanner; it does help to have the special tool to do inner cv joints but not essential.  Similar with the gearchange; if it has the earlier 'remote' shift (snap across for reverse) it can be undone with a spanner; if the later rod-change (lift for reverse) it helps to have the correct size punch to knock the pin out.  Both the driveshaft couplings and gearchange changed part way through mark 3 production.

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All that's wrong with the suspension is that bodged schrader valve which I plan to replace for you with one of my spares and I'll also top it up so the car is sitting level.  As far as I can tell, the rest of the system is in rude health so it shouldn't cause you issues.  Even just riding around the potholed yard the suspension feels pretty healthy and smooth, like these should.

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I don't HAVE to fix it ;)  I just thought it'd be one less thing to worry about since I've got all the gear here to sort it in about ten minutes and you then don't need to stress about trying to find someone with a pump, etc.

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