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1972 Austin 1100 - SOLD


vulgalour

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Great progress!
 

If you wanted to fill in the holes on the repair panel where the spot welds have been drilled on the trumpet, there would be no need to cut lots of small metal circles.

Find a piece of scrap copper and clamp it behind the holes and then fill them in with weld. The copper will act as a backing to weld on to and can still be removed after.

Then you can fit the panels separately.

 

That's what I would do anyway.

 

Keep up the great work

 

Ben

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Depending on the number of holes needed could you just stick a rubber grommet in them and use the opening to apply lashings of protective wax/old oil/runny cheese into the trumpet area?

 

The above statement sounds like something that Mr T Claim may have several intresting images of.

 

 

Cracking work on the car vulgalour,  I really like the way these cars look now after years of indifference on my part.

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It's been a day or two since the last update, I bet you're wondering where I got to.  Never fear, a new update is here.  Yesterday I went in with some goodies that had arrived but couldn't do anything as the unit needed to be a clean space for the day, so there was no way I could be doing grinding and welding.  That's okay, I got a bit ahead on some work projects instead and left the new parts for today.

35992611142_26af57cbb3_b.jpg20170725-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Mike was going to be in the unit ahead of me today and offered to fit the clutch slave cylinder and repair the wiring loom.  I wasn't sure if he'd have time and they're non-vital items at the moment so I didn't mind if today was just me cracking on with bodywork.  Happily, there was a note.

36160727545_6af5aeb44e_b.jpg20170725-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Well, that was nice.  Old slave cylinder well and truly jammed, the pedal actually moves properly now.  It needs to be bled to work fully, that's a job for tomorrow, hopefully.  Wiring loom was all repaired and wrapped to Mike's usual high standard so that's another worry out of the way.

35992610512_85c7c7c45f_b.jpg20170725-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

35992608052_f0c3e25b8e_b.jpg20170725-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

35992610132_2a1a66ed84_b.jpg20170725-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I had spent some time yesterday looking at the car and the inner wing panel and imagining how to fix it.  This is a much more involved and scary repair than I've done before as it's all peculiar shapes and I pretty much had to do it with the panel I'd got, there's no spare funds for another at the moment.  It was a case of offering the panel up, marking and trimming it about a thousand times, then doing it a bit more, and a bit more, until I was as happy as I could be.  I did have to remove more inner wing than expected at the front because of rust but much less depth of wing.

36160726815_bbdc82e5b6_b.jpg20170725-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Clean it up, tack it in, bash a few edges for a slightly better fit and massage bendy bits of panel so they line up as good as possible and it's starting to look something like.  Oh, and clean off the surface rust too, of course.

36160726445_f3064dd257_b.jpg20170725-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Eventually, the whole repair section is seam welded and plug welded where required.  I went over the middle subframe mounting plate again and got the welds more even and hefty to improve that area.  There's one corner of the subframe mount I can't finish until I've done some rust repair, but I needed the upper section of wing in before I could do that, so that job happens later this week.  I was quite picky about both sides of the welding, part of the reason for doing it from the inner wing side is the ugly side of the welding would be less visible.  Once I was happy that everything was properly seam welded with good penetration and a reasonable finish both sides I treated it all to seam sealer, primer and paint.  Where you see the flashes of grey primer is where there's rust repairs to complete

36160726245_55fbb07e37_b.jpg20170725-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I decided against fitting the trumpet to the inner wing panel before fitting the inner wing panel for two reasons.  The first is that the spotweld holes I need to access are accessible with the panel fitted, something I didn't know until it was ready to be welded in.  The other is that the trumpet is a terrible fit.  I've been trying to squash and bend and straighten and tweak it and it's something like but it's going to need clamping to the wing and bashing into place to get it to sit right in some areas.  I don't know if the fitment issue is down to the inner wing panel or the trumpet, both or the car, it's just one of those things.  It was one of the parts of this repair that was worrying me what with there being a lot of complicated shapes having to slot together neatly.

 

Never mind.  I got the engine bay side of the wing seam sealered as tidily as I could.  It should be a much less visible repair once the battery and wiring are reinstated and it has some paint on.  It's all metal now, at least, and will hopefully take at least another 45 years to rot out again, by which point I don't think I'll care.

35992608842_6dba6bb931_b.jpg20170725-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

35353610993_7f6e38d61b_b.jpg20170725-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I am looking forward to getting this engine bay tidied up.  There's a small piece I need to put in between the bulkhead and the inner wing where it was cut away for the repair before I got the car, a fiddly job but an easy one at least.  I wanted to do this after the inner wing was fitted so I could make the repair the correct shape easier.  I didn't cut through any wires or set anything on fire today, which was very surprising, though I did make the obligatory blood sacrifice  by accidentally stabbing myself in the hand on a drilled hole edge.

36027805731_d608ea4f12_b.jpg20170725-11 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Fantastic stuff! I've been putting off doing the trumpets on my 1100 for 3 years (they're absolutely shot, I rushed the car back on the road 4 years ago and should have taken the front wings off!)

 

I'll be doing them and more over the winter, so pictures like this are very welcome, and any recommendations.

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My number one recommendation:  If you can get someone else to do it for you, do.

 

Seriously though, take your time, measure lots, look at it until you're feeling confident and then just get stuck in.  If it gets difficult or isn't going right, step away for a few hours and come back with a fresh mind.  Sometimes a second pair of eyes helps spot obvious things you've missed too.  Be patient with yourself and don't be afraid to use a hammer.

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Made a bit more progress on the bodywork today.  I'm into the territory of fiddly jobs that take ages for no obvious visual gain now, which is always annoying.  First thing was cleaning up and bridging that hole between the inner wing and the bulkhead, a repair made difficult because of it being quite a tight corner to get into with things like the wiring loom at high risk of getting damaged.  I couldn't get in to clean up the welds because my tools are too large so it was a case of doing my best with what I'd got.  It's not too bad, and it is solid at least.

36048173101_f2073fa0c3_b.jpg20170726-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Wiring grommet reinstated nicely so I was pleased I hadn't messed that up and the bonnet stay was screwed back in so I didn't have to rely on the wooden prop that was being used.  After that I could get on with the trumpet panel.

36180667515_70deb9bb2d_b.jpg20170726-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Fitting this trumpet panel is annoying.  I got it clamped in as best a fit as I could and set to puddle welding through the holes that were drilled in the panel.  I drilled some new ones for the bulkhead join too.  The fitment is... okay... but not great.  It'll do, certainly.

36048172741_5f35a90e8d_b.jpg20170726-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

On this side you can see which drilled holes line up nicely and which ones need more adjustment of the trumpet panel. It's going to take a fair bit of hammering and tweaking to get everything to line up and I may have to get a bit creative in a couple of places where the pressing just isn't cooperating.  I have an arsenal of clamps and hammers so I'll get there, I'd just rather hoped this bit would have been somewhat easier.

36180666585_2ffd955c81_b.jpg20170726-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I ran out of time to do any more unfortunately.  Mike and I did try to bleed the clutch slave cylinder but it looks like the master is jammed.  While the clutch pedal does travel and the arm isn't seized, there's no resistance and it seems to hit a fairly solid stop when you get about halfway down the pedal travel.  I'll remove the master cylinder to inspect it and possibly replace or rebuild it.  The only other thing of note is the new headlight gaskets arrived since the old ones broke up on removal and I expect these are quite an important bit of kit to keep things happy at the end of the wings.

36048171421_b77a023865_b.jpg20170726-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Not sure if I'm going in tomorrow, got a fair bit of work on at the moment that I need to get through so I might have to take a day off from the Austin.  We shall see how I get on today.

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Cars n Car Conversions August 68

If it's too small to read I'll photograph it later !   Click it , it goes huge !

post-17940-0-78512300-1501105965_thumb.jpg

 

 

I is a bit puzzled by the maniflod ? MG ones had twin su and 3 into one exhaust already ? And that maniflod looks a bit standard Austin 1300 ? Maybe it took a single 1 3/4" or a sidedraft twinchoke...

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From reading the article - it goes to a nice size to read - it looks like it's a standard 1300 manifold that's been polished internally rather than any other kind of upgrade.  I couldn't say with certainty, engines aren't my area of expertise.  I know the Downton conversion stuff is popular with classic Mini owners, less commonly applied to the ADO16s, I suppose because when new they were a little ungainly and expensive compared to the Mini.

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Going back to the early seventies when my Dad did repairs at home, he had a customer with a Morris 1300 two door (Connaught green) with a Downton conversion, may have been a 'Touring' one, not sure. It had a flowed heard, manifold, exhaust, can and a Mini flywheel - the 1275 had a massive great flywheel to smooth out the idle. At the time we had a 1970 1275GT Clubman and Fatha always said the Downton car was vastly better, very smooth revving and amazing on fuel.

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I is a bit puzzled by the maniflod ? MG ones had twin su and 3 into one exhaust already ? And that maniflod looks a bit standard Austin 1300 ? Maybe it took a single 1 3/4" or a sidedraft twinchoke...

 

Not sure of the set-up of the MG 1100, but the first MG1300's had a single 1 1/2 SU. I've got an old Motor Roadtest book for 1967 somewhere.

 

The twin carb 70bhp set up came along with the MG1300 Mk2  1969? ( it gained the dash with rev counter at the same time).

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I has just found my 1100 handbook , from errr 38 years ago. 8) It brings back happy memories of all my 1100 1300s .Forever changing the  rubber u/j things !!  

  I only had them as they were cheap or free , and i was a poor apprentice. They fell out of  fashion late seventies apart from the 1300 GT  . My mates had mk3 cortinas Fiat 128s, escort gt's  ,dolly sprints capris Fiat mirafiori's...

 

post-17940-0-32124700-1501189124_thumb.jpg

 

As you can see by my now embarassing  :oops: doodle modifications, I dribbled over droop snoot firenzas :mrgreen: , viva gt bonnet scoops, capri rear windows and porsche 911  turbo tea tray rear spoilers... . Don't know about the roof spoiler ...probably nicked the kick up from a  Fiesta mk1 which I learnt to drive in ..

The deep RGA  front spoiler i did actually buy, from All Car Equipe ,  opposite Brands Hatch . It did actually stabilize the car , you could really  feel the difference in crosswind on open roads !!

 

I was beginning to understand aerodynamics obviously too going by the trails... :-D  :-D

 

post-17940-0-47314700-1501189170_thumb.jpg

 

 

There you go,  I could have done good , and been as wealthy as Adrian Newey. :-)  Fuck knows why i raised the leading edge of the roof , that's more frontal area !!!

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Eddie:  pretty much everything is the wrong offset for an ADO16, they have stupid sticky-out front wheels.  That set, if I could find a pair of proper offset for the front and some with a bit of dish in a matching design for the back I'd be very happy.

 

Rev:  Harvest Gold is not allowed.  It's staying purple.  Red does suit them but I'm pretty sure after a week of driving around I'm going to get fed up of Fawlty Tower lines so it's best not to encourage people.

As a fellow owner of a BL product from the same era that also is in Harvest Gold, I say you should do the right thing and paint it back in Harvest Gold! ;)

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Little bit of a set back today in that I got a couple of spots of weld down and then the gas ran out.  Since welding is just about the only thing I can do, that rather puts the brakes on a bit so I looked at something less essential and finished off what filler I could before running out of sandpaper.  One of those days, clearly.  I got the tin of paint out that came with the car and found it was still good, the only brush I have is pretty rubbish, and that's fine for this car, so I stuck some paint on the finished bit.

 

36089580411_0313b2ba82_b.jpg20170728-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I'll get a better brush, some more sandpaper and a gas bottle ordered as soon as I can so I can carry on with things.  It's likely I won't get any further this weekend.

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I've got one, but it's not a great deal of use on a lot of the areas because of fiddly access and compound curves.  It doesn't take long to do it by hand in all honesty, it's the lack of sandpaper that's slowed me down today rather than the lack of power tools.

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