vulgalour Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 danthecapriman, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer, Skut and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 We don't have to listen to him, he owns a HONDA CIVIC. FTFY. (Yes I own a Honda Civic too...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 ... and an Audi, and a Sherpa Sports... we let you off though, you probably don't know better, unlike Tommy Two Triumphs up there. SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 I've never understood that apparent Sherpa connection? Apart from the same engine that is used, they're completely different? tooSavvy and chaseracer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 Sloww..Slow.. Quick[abit].. Slow Some differences, agreed TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heidel_Kakao Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 I've never understood that apparent Sherpa connection? Apart from the same engine that is used, they're completely different?It's just like when people say the Porsche 924 has a van engine or the Triumph TR2 has a tractor engine. Haters gonna hate. richardthestag, SiC, The Reverend Bluejeans and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 Conversely, I've seen Sherpas referred to as MG High-tops. It's all fun. Banger Kenny, Heidel_Kakao, gadgetgricey and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain_70s Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 I've never understood that apparent Sherpa connection? Apart from the same engine that is used, they're completely different?Mostin Oxbridge Coupe, innit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 Personal fav is to call them Mugguhbuhs. OH NO THREAD DRIFT YO! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felly Magic Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 I think performance and handling are about the same between the petrol van and coupe, and calling them Sherpa coupes really pisses off the beardie anoraks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 On that basis, it sounds like I need to have a go in a Sherpa can as they sound like excellent fun to drive! Going back to the thread, I'm really looking forward to seeing this with a fresh MOT and on the road. It has also peaked my interest in other BL chod of the same era. I am beginning to see and understand why people have a fascination with old British cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 11, 2017 Author Share Posted August 11, 2017 Today has just been frustrating. I spent the first hour just trying to find the eye protection that had disappeared and it is nowhere. I even emptied the bin just in case they'd fallen in that somehow. I ended up using a full face mask thing that's so scratched you can barely see through it because there was no other option available at the unit and I didn't want to waste time driving to a shop to buy a new pair of safety specs. I did at least get the patches cut out for the boot repairs. The seam repair piece I even got fettled and held in place with magnets ready to weld in.20170811-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I got the larger panel cut out and ready to be fettled when the fusebox tripped, as it does sometimes, taking out the circuit for the bench grinder. The electrics in the unit are okay apart from that circuit which every now and then trips up. I could have put the panel in the vice and fannied about with the angle grinder but I really don't enjoy doing it that way, especially if the grinder snags on the metal as you're trying to fine-trim it.20170811-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr That's fine though, flicking a switch in the fuse box is not an issue. If you can get to the fuse box. I did not have enough time spare to shift all the crap that has been stacked in the way so pretty much had to call it quits as I was, by now, thoroughly not in the mood.20170811-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I had taken a spare Princess steel with me to double-extra check the PCD on the Austin which is the same of 4x114.3. I was also curious about seeing a 14" wheel on the car and what sort of clearance issues there are. The answer to that is lots. I'd have to fit a tyre that had half the sidewall at least because it fouls the part of the car's structure. You definitely wouldn't want to go bigger than a 14" if you were retaining the stock arches either, they're a nice radius match but you don't get a lot of wiggle room.20170811-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr 20170811-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr Found a couple of purple dice valve caps which replace the mismatched ones that were on the suspension schrader valves, so there's that.20170811-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr Coprolalia, Mr Laurence, mat_the_cat and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted August 11, 2017 Share Posted August 11, 2017 Brilliant work on this, nice to see your even using authentic BL steel for repairs too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 11, 2017 Author Share Posted August 11, 2017 Only the best*. I've been thinking over wheel and tyre choices and it's very tempting to use a pair of Ambassador steels on the back and Princess steels up front with low-ish profile tyres. There's a much wider range of choice even for low-profile 14" tyres than there are for any size 12" tyres and providing I make the rolling radius about the same, there should be no detrimental effect on the suspension or handling of the 1100. The reason for Ambassador steels on the back is that they have a slightly different offset and more dish than the Princess ones so would fill the rear arches a little better and visually help the fronts look less sticky-outy. I'll do a trial fit at some point before I make up my mind. There's not going to really be any cost difference if I go with the 14" steels and with the right centre caps or hubcaps it could even look factory to the casual observer. danthecapriman, Bren and Coprolalia 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angrydicky Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 We can resleeve, rebuild and pressure test your old clutch cylinders at my work. It will be more expensive than buying some crappy far eastern copy, but it's a quality job that will last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Seem to remember Ambassador wheels are wider than Princess: 5.5J rather than 4.5J? ( But it was a long time ago! ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig the Princess Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 I'd caution using low profile tyres, the reason for the low pressures started for Hydrogas/lastic cars is to soften the ride using the tyres to cushion the ride. Would 13" Allegro wheels give any options or is the 14"look what you are going for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 What's wrong with 12 inch wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 Dicky: I believe that's what this local company does too. I'd far rather use the substantial originals than a modern disposable item. Asimo: I think you're right, I'd have to check the wheels for definite. I know they'd fill the rear arches on the 1100 better, the rear track is quite a bit narrower than the front so you can get away with a bit of dish out the back. Craig: I know the tyres are part of what makes the suspension lovely and I know that low profile will make for a harder ride. In this instance that's not a worry, the car won't get enough use for it to be detrimental to anything. Rev: nothing at all apart from tyre choice. There's simply a wider range of tyres for the same price in 14" than there is at 12" so I can put better quality tyres on the car. There's no price difference going for the 14" steels over the original 12" steels since I've already got them. Just a case of figuring out what clearances I've got and doing some more research on this one. Craig the Princess 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 https://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre-finder/s=1/summer/t=1/van/r=1/155-80-r12How many do you want?You will either not have it long enough to wear them out,or thery will perish before they do. Stop pissing about making more problems for yourself. barefoot, alf892 and vulgalour 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 I'll phrase that more diplomatically and say: "stop over-thinking things". It's all very well saying that x profile will give y rolling radius, but it's not the whole story. I could probably start a whole rant about modern tyre sizes and their shitness, but I won't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel Tidybeard Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 if you want to go 14" tyre size 155/65 r14 would be ok (assuming 145/82 r12 as base value) and affordable if you want to stay true to 12" what about later mini wheels have less inward dish if you want archfillingness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 PVD: That's more like it! Not come across that site before and that's much more the range I've been trying and failing to find. So far all the stuff I'd been finding were horrible budget tyres, even when asking at tyre shops. You've probably solved the issue for me with that selection, thank you. Eddie: I know, I know, modern tyre profiles are not particularly car or passenger friendly. They absorb less of the rough and tumble of our characterful road surfaces causing discomfort for passengers and extra wear on mechanical components, not to mention the extra stresses on the tyre itself since there's less of it to do the job that needs to be done. I just like sidewall and lack of sidewall in varying quantities. Noel: different PCD I thought. Mini are 4x4" or 4x101.6 in metric as opposed to ADO16 4x4.5" or 4x114.3 in metric. Unless they changed it on later models? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 I found tyreleader the cheapest when I got the MGB 165r14 tyres. Camskills can be pretty good too and shipped from UK, so a bit quicker. I did have to do a search on 165/80/14 to find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 Let's put the worries about tyres and wheels behind us for now, I'm a way off getting those yet and have lots of other jobs to be getting on with, namely yet more welding. I got a lucky on eBay when I found a selection of headlight buckets, trims and sealed beam lights for £NOTALOT and was the only bidder. I've ended up with a pair of plastic headlight buckets, a spare metal one, several good retaining rings, a couple of spare trim rings, some spare used rubber gaskets and a good sealed beam headlight for less than a pair of brand new plastic buckets. Quite pleased with that. There's even some spare bits of wiring and connectors in there too, should I need any of them.20170813-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr After getting the fusebox reset, I cracked on with the welding in the boot. This was fiddly and I had to take regular breaks, something near the welded areas was making a lot of smoke that just sort of sat in the boot right where my head needed to be so there was lots of time spent wafting it out of the way. Nothing was on fire, just a lot of heavy smoke from something, probably underseal. I can now call the boot welding completed. I decided not to tackle the inner and outer arch brown lace because that's not structural and can be done without needing to immobilise the car at pretty much any point.20170813-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr 20170813-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr 20170813-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr With that all seam sealed and painted I can leave it alone until I'm ready to clean and underseal the car after the sills and floors are done. It's nice to have this crossed off the list finally. I could have done the sill repair that was needed on the passenger side, it's an easy enough job, but I didn't really have that much time to get properly involved so I assessed what was left to do and decided to attack the bad floor pan. It got a bit out of hand.20170813-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr YABBADABBADOO!20170813-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I'm a bit puzzled about the subframe mount on the heelboard. After knocking off the loose rust flakes I was expecting to find a hole through to the subframe which would then require new metal letting in. However, it looks more likely that someone has patched it from the subframe side without removing the rust. I'm not really sure what to do about this at the moment, I'm considering just undoing the bolts and cleaning it all back to try and find where it's welded and assess from there. It'll be a lot easier to do with no floor in the car, loads of access even with the pedals still fitted.20170813-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I do need to take more floor out than I have. The piece that runs under the seat mount/crossmember is rotten and has taken some of this piece with it. I need to remove the rotten floor, repair the crossmember and reinstate the floor in one piece if I can. I think the Mini floor pan I have is just big enough to do the whole floor repair in one go, but it's very close on whether or not it's long enough. Again, this area is going to be a lot easier to repair now the floor is removed, there's much more access to get things into the shape I need them to be.20170813-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr 20170813-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr In closing...20170813-11 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr 20170813-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr Mr Laurence, Dirk Diggler, brandersnatch and 17 others 20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticvandan Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Vulg,apologies if my post was a bit harsh and abrupt, I've been having a shit day having paid £400 having my bike engine rebuilt,and the clutch doesn't work! Same tyre size as used on my old Reliant Fox,falkens were very good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 Recommendation noted Hope the bike problem resolves painlessly for you, that doesn't sound fun at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felly Magic Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Yabba-dabba and indeed do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeEP Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Subframe mount on toeboard (bulkhead) should be double-skinned. The inner skin (almost) always does what yours has and rots away unseen under the carpets. I don't think I've seen one 1100 which hasn't at least started to go like that. vulgalour 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holbeck Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Just wanted to say that I'm loving what you are doing here. It's making me quite nostalgic for ADO16 motoring. vulgalour 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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