SiC Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 To add to the wear on the clutch lever/clevis point, I've seen this mentioned quite often on MGB and Midget threads online too. KruJoe, DeeJay, Banger Kenny and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 7, 2017 Author Share Posted August 7, 2017 I shall report back on this one when I've had chance to investigate further. If need be, I'll use the Mally Method and extend that rod, just so I can drive it a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 Didn't get any further on the clutch side of things, my other jobs took rather longer than anticipated. What I do know now is the brake master cylinder reservoir (and probably the master cylinder too, it's the one on the left) is on the wrong way around, the fill cap should be to the left at the bulkhead side.20170808-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I can also tell you there looks to be some wear to the hole the clutch return spring goes through. At least I think it's wear, it doesn't look even enough to have been machined that way.20170808-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr On fiddling with some things I am now more inclined to thing the seals on the clutch master cylinder have failed which is what's causing the problem. The clutch hose isn't doing anything visibly strange and while I haven't taken the big arm off, I doubt there's enough damage there to cause issues either. Because I wanted to get on with other stuff on the car, I didn't try the bodge of extending the slave cylinder actuator rod thing to see if the minimal travel I'm getting could be exaggerated enough to get clutch operation. Instead, attention today was turned towards the desire to weld up the boot floor. The underseal in the rear arch is really variable in thickness and has lifted in quite a few places so it all needs to come off. Unlike the front arch this side, this is proven incredibly difficult because of both access and the stubborness of some of the underseal. My plan is to get it all back to nice clean metal, rust treat where needed, weld where needed, repaint and re-underseal it all. I did want to clean the whole arch before starting the repairs but it was taking that long I was worried I wouldn't get any rust cut out, let alone new steel welded in today, so I only did some of the arch.20170808-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I gave the arch lip a buzz with the flap wheel and found that while it's a little frilly, there's still a lot of metal to work with. It shouldn't need a replacement arch, just the return lip. Someone has already replaced some of the return lip before me and I see no reason not to carry on in the same way. The inner arch isn't too bad either, except for the trailing edge. It's a fiddly repair and perhaps non-vital but I might as well do it while I'm doing the rest.20170808-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr In the boot I cut out the rot. It wasn't actually as bad as expected. I've got to carefully clean back some of the subframe mounting bracket as it's gone around a couple of the spotwelds. I should, in theory, be able to remove the rusty metal, clean the bracket surface and weld in a new boot floor piece to the bracket afterwards without dropping the subframe. You can also see the bit of boot-valance seam I've removed here.20170808-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr It's a lot of small pieces layered to repair this bit. Time consuming, but not too tricky. Happily I also found the guard for the grinder so that's back on. It did get in the way a bit when trying to clean some of the inner arch, but other than that I'm persevering with it after the thumb incident. Tomorrow I plan to weld up the boot floor and then weld up the inner arch, it looks like it will layer easier that way. I'll also have to do a small bit of repair work to the bottom trailing edge of the wing both inner and outer but I might not get that far since that's all curved shapes which take me a while to make. oldcars, purplebargeken, johngarty and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 If the master cylinder is leaking it usually drips onto the carpet, see if clutch push rod or lever is wet at pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chodweaver Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 I have to ask, Vulg, have you considered putting the 1100 on a tilter or a rotisserie for the sill work? I have been toying with getting a pair of tilters for exactly this job as I now have two deserving basket cases waiting for new sills. And I've convinced myself that I won't be able to start the job, let alone finish it, unless each car is on its side, esp as my welding is shit even when not doing it upside down... Sent from my BV6000 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chodweaver Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 In fact, sod it, any chance I can come and <ahem> 'assist' (watch) when you do a sill? Sent from my BV6000 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 A car spit is a luxury I cannot have. Because the workshop is a working garage, whatever I'm working on has to be mobile at short notice, in part because of the layout of the place. Generally, rotisseries are not that mobile except for on a smooth surface so it's not an option here. Certainly, being able to turn the car upside down would make the sill and floor repairs a lot easier but this isn't a restoration, it's a preservation, so I don't want to get that involved. I don't work well with an audience, it has to be said, I end up feeling very self conscious, and I doubt you'd learn much from the sill repairs as I'm not replacing the full item, just part. The sill closing panel is basically a specifically shaped panel that's spot-welded on, there's not a lot to see really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chodweaver Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 No problem - I appreciate your candour. You're updates are really helpful anyway. I've been thinking about these things too, rather than a rotisserie (less stripping down required before tilting) - have you (or anyone else) got experience of these things? https://www.cjautos.eu/BASIC_CAR_ROLLER_p/ct01.htm vulgalour 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 I don't have personal experience of them. All I can say is if it's a well designed one then it works super in a narrow space. If it's not you end up being unable to lift the car or, worse, unable to stop the car once it starts to roll. They can be really good bits of kit to have but you do seem to get what you pay for with them from what I've seen in other build threads over the years. tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 Without trawling through the whole thread............you HAVE adjusted the clutch, haven't you? From distant memory: Take the return spring off. Undo the two big nuts (2) until they're virtually off. Remove them if you wish to clean the threads. Pull the clutch lever away from the small 7/16 adjuster bolt by hand. Adjust the gap to 15 thou. (check this). Push clutch down until lever is where it wants to be. Screw the first big nut all the way to the end. Release the clutch, screw big nut another turn. Do the second big nut on and lock the two together. The big nut is there to adjust in compensation for crank thrust washer wear. Very early Minis (1959 only) didn't have these and thrust washer wear was epic. What you may find its that whilst the clutch hydraulics are doing their thing, all you're doing is pushing the crankshaft across. Banger Kenny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 If it's not you end up being unable to lift the car or, worse, unable to stop the car once it starts to roll. I have seen [pre >PhotoBlockitt] Hillman IMP 'floor welding' being done on a 'tipped over onto side' (full car.. no engine but glass etc) onto a couple of old mattresses . Fire considerations were appraised and a couple of buckets of water available... Or >> TS DeeJay, stephen01 and theshadow 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 Rev: Adjustment was attempted on the advice of my racing friend which was almost word-for-word the same as you've put there. It didn't help which is why I then moved on to trying to identify what components aren't working. It seems to be an issue between the pedal and the arm rather than adjustment of the arm or clutch so that still points towards failed master cylinder seals or worn actuation points on the arm. We'll see how I get on with the boot welding today, if that goes well and I have time I'll have a look at the clutch stuff. Happily there's lots of info on what the problems could be and how to fix them. The Reverend Bluejeans 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 Okay Vulg. Would be worth measuring the distance the clutch arm comes out and compare with with a working Mini / 1100 / Aggro. I don't know anyone with a Mini - anyone on here have one? If the worst comes to the worst, a clutch change is no big deal. The PITA bits are getting the battery tray off and getting the FO big flywheel bolt out, neither of which are really hard. The good thing is, it cheap. You only need a clutch plate. You never need to replace the diaphragm or the pressure plate, they're everlasting. But I always, without fail, replace the primary gear oil seal as well as 'rodding' the tiny oil holes for the p/gear brass bush. These clog up and starve the bush of oil resulting in a horrible whining as the gear goes out of alignment with the idler gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 No clutch investigation today, yet again the repair work I was doing ended up being rather more involved than expected. There was a really nice looking repair in the boot that I had hoped to leave alone, it looked prettier than the other repairs (bar the coat of underseal) but was hiding grot as I found when I started to cut out the grot I did know about.20170809-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I had to take the guard off the grinder temporarily. I didn't want to accidentally cut through anything behind the piece I was removing so need to get in quite snug to make a clean cut, that meant swapping to a smaller used disc for access. As you can see, the guard won't then let me make this cut. I put the guard back on once I'd done it.20170809-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr Cleaned, the hidden bits rust treated, and the floor spot welded to the bracket where the old spot welds had rotted out and I was ready to clean back the welds for the next stage. Only I'd run out of time and managed to misplace the eye protection so that's where I called it quits today.20170809-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I've got the inner arch panel to make and install which I'll do from outside the car then I'll seam weld the floor panel to the inner wing so they're no longer independant of one another. I'm going to get some big grommets for the holes that the wiring loom goes through too, seems odd that there aren't any there in such an exposed location and is probably a big contributor to the boot floor corners rotting out like they have.20170809-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr richardthestag, Cavcraft, chodweaver and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 Oh hey, it's exactly a month since we went to collect this thing now. That's flown by. richardthestag, Cavcraft, KruJoe and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 And much more car looking too, rather than leaky old bucket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 And much more car looking too, rather than leaky old bucket. You could pass a bucket through the hole in the boot. vulgalour and SiC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KruJoe Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 exactly a month since we went to collect this thing And another month should see it taxed and tested, right? Anyway, it's good to see there's still bits of orange Princess being stitched in! Cavcraft 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 Barely more than a frame left of that Princess bonnet now. The frame might provide suitable donor sections for new front wing stays, I need to measure what's left to check. Banger Kenny and richardthestag 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben_O Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 Where did the new slave come from? I have had trouble with a motor factor slave on a mini that drove me up the wall trying to find the issue with a clutch that wasn't working properly. Changed the master, the copper pipe and the flexi so everything was new and still no joy. Turned out to be a dodgy new slave. Replacement sourced from Minispares and job was a gooden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MINI-CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-GSY110-MORRIS-1100-1300-AUSTIN-FREEPOST/292082058538 £14.95 was the cheapest available when I was looking and it's identical to the one that came off. There's quite a few up for grabs on eBay at the moment. The slave is definitely pushing fluid about so I'm still pretty sure it's the master at fault, for which a rebuild kit is in the post as I type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catsinthewelder Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 Clutch issues are probably my fault, it was working fine before I dismantled it all to weld up the bulkhead and it is entirely possible that I broke something while putting it back together. Great to see so much progress in such a short time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 Excellent, I have someone to blame oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen01 Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1980-Morris-Marina-1-3L-for-restoration-/292209222488?hash=item440906e358:g:H4QAAOSwo4tZizFA&clk_rvr_id=1280105297289&rmvSB=true stable mate, the coulours match lovely, no. danthecapriman, SiC and Craig the Princess 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 Noice. Shan't be going into to work on the Austin today, not in the right headspace for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain_70s Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1980-Morris-Marina-1-3L-for-restoration-/292209222488?hash=item440906e358:g:H4QAAOSwo4tZizFA&clk_rvr_id=1280105297289&rmvSB=true stable mate, the coulours match lovely, no. Even by my standards that looks horrible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel Tidybeard Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 Even by my standards that looks horrible. wash your mouth out you heathen- applejack is one of the finest colours known to man Dick Longbridge, Craig the Princess, catsinthewelder and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig the Princess Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 Even by my standards that looks horrible.No accounting for taste ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 10, 2017 Author Share Posted August 10, 2017 We don't have to listen to him, he owns a silver HONDA. MarvinsMom and SiC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain_70s Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 My Honda is BLUE, dammit. Also Applejack is fine, it's just the base spec Marina 3 that ruins it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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