Volksy Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Day five of 'goona ownership, and I have my first electrical meltdown. Car decides to randomly overheat, luckily managed to catch it before OMGHGF or boil over. Had a poke about and appears that the cooling fan hasn't kicked in. Found fuse blown in engine compartment (big 60a [email protected]<script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript">/* */</script>). Leave car cooling down in the dealership compound, then replace fuse and try again. Warms up as normal, fan kicks in.. Result! ....... or so i thought.. Took the car up in t'dales to a pre-wedding reception. Fast country roads up past Bolton Abbey to Grassington. Car is in it's element, it bloody flies!! Arrive at campsite for the night, and find the fuse has blown again. So, one can only assume that it has a two speed cooling fan, and if it requires it's second speed, due to fast running or omgtrafficchaos it'll blow the fuse. Can I find any info on the interwebs, can I buggery. Anyone know anything about this? In fact there is very little info on the engine bay fuse box at all. Any help/advise appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil_lihp Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Is the second fan seized? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 It only appears to have one fan. I think! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 *RING RING* Hello this is the Gooner emergency line, how can I help? ... Uh-uh, a Gooner owner in need then? ... Ok, I'll see what I can do to help! *Fires up the data pack* Looks to be one Fan, with 2 control relays. Both circuits go through that 60A fuse, with the engine ECU controlling both relay coils. One relay puts it through a resistor pack to slow the fan down. The other connects the other side of the resistor pack to connect the fan directly to power and thus full speed . Maybe this resistor has broken and is shorting against the chassis somewhere? Replacing the fuse earlier may have kicked the fans in full as it was cooking itself. Here is the engine fuse box and relay locations: (Note the F4RT is your engine in the relay section) Twiggy, Dave_Q, Jim Bell and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 While I'm here, here are the UCH relays. REL 2 (top right) is the one for the heated rear screen that is causing the drain issue: I probably have a relay kicking around in an old UCH (Hooli's old Laguna II) that you can have if yours is stuck on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Cooling fan resistor appears to be at the top of the radiator on the passenger side of the car. I'd pull the low speed fan relay and replace the fuse to see if that fixes the problem for now. Obviously it'll get pretty hot before the fan kicks in at full speed. Also try and locate the cooling resistor (mine, being the V6 is the only one without it) and see if one of the terminals is shorting to the body. Hope this all helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 I'd let it burn, bloody goonas! John F 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Hey SiC, Thanks so much for this, If I understand correctly, it should either the 'high speed' wiring or something on that circuit. As the low speed fan works perfectly well. I shall have a poke around tomorrow when this post wedding do hangover has gone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Sorry for the lack of updates, The MOT has now lapsed on this, not put it through another as yet, because lack of pennies and have the Honda JazzHands still. So far it's going well, despite the earlier problems which i put down to lack of use. The cooling fan issue hasn't reappeared after I put in an 'old stock' fuse for that circuit, and so far nothing else seems to have tried to self-distruct in the 1500+ miles I've done in it. (I hope it's not listening to this, as who knows what problems it'll counjour up) It's proved itself as a fast capable wagon, although I don't seem to be able to get the MPG over 25, but I think that is largely due to my commute being a fast section before it's fully warmed up and then a misrable crawl once it is. Once it's through the MOT I'll take it on a long run to see if it improves. It's even looking quite smart with a scrub up, considering getting the paint seen to by our companies resident 'Smart' repairer/dent man if it gets through the test at the end of the month. Fingers crossed! beko1987, SiC and Lacquer Peel 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 This is booked in for an MOT tomorrow, I've given it a run into work today as it's been stood for a couple of weeks. Drove ok, but then a mile from work I noticed the temperature gauge start to climb. I whacked the heating and interior fan onto full pelt, which dropped the temp gauge back down to just below half way again. Looks like the fuse for the fan has blown again, I'd replaced it about a month ago, and had no problems since, despite it's regular commute in stop start traffic. Shall have to dig a bit deeper as per the advice SiC posted earlier.... It appears that it doesn't like being stood about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 I'm also going to have a dig around to remove the HRW relay, and see if I can get the Headlight washers functioning today, does anyone know if I have to remove the glove box to access the fuse/relay board in the cabin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parky Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Something to watch at the MOT station, especially if they are leaving it idling for a while for the emissions test Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 I'm also going to have a dig around to remove the HRW relay, and see if I can get the Headlight washers functioning today, does anyone know if I have to remove the glove box to access the fuse/relay board in the cabin?Side of the dash that's exposed when you open the drivers door isn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 Side of the dash that's exposed when you open the drivers door isn't it? There is a fuse board there, but there is another 'hidden' one somewhere up behind the dash on the passenger side, which is easy to access on a LHD model, but is buried on the RHD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Glovebox insert comes out easily* Not sure if it's meant to be screwed in but hasn't been on any I've owned possibly because of frequent electrical issues Volksy and somewhatfoolish 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Pretty sure from memory most of the fuses are in the drivers side. Couple of torx holds the uch in. Check my gooner thread, I have some photos behind the glove box area. Easy to get to as it's where the pollen filter resides. 4 clips in the insert and mine had one torx screw at the top. The bolt required more than expected turns to get it out. Volksy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 Spent my lunch hour on this, it indeed had blown its fan fuse. So replaced it, pulled the LOW speed relay, and left it running to see if the high speed fan would kick in. Nothing. Fuse blew when i noticed the temperature increasing from its normal 'just below half' Trying to put a new fuse in whist running caused teh new fuse to melt itself, obvs as it was in open circuit. Had a look in the relays, all clean, no burnt contacts etc. Had a looks at the wiring, nothing I can see is damaged or burnt out. On the cowling, next to the cooling fan is this: Is this the cooling fan resistor? If I disconnect it would the cooling fan still run on low? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 Done a bit more pissing about with this tonight. Firstly had a look at pulling the relay for the HRW to enable me to leave the fuse in for the Headlight washers. Stripped out the glovebox liner and found the fuse/relay board tucked up under the dash. Looks very different to the one in the diagram: I'm assuming the red relay on it's own is the one, but unsure, so I left it alone. I found a plug on the loom in the tailgate to disconnect the HRW, as this one has the separate opening window, the wiring doesn't plug onto a contact on the glass like most other cars I've had. So I've disconnected that. I also pulled the small fuse - Drivers side dash fuseboard - for the heated mirrors, as they could also be draining the battery. I then put a fuse in the headlight washer in the underbonnet fusebox. And they work!Although, like an idiot, I left my boost pack at work so dare not leave it all connected overnight in case it still drains the battery. Had another look at the cooling fan system. Let the engine idle up to temperature. And no sign of the fan kicking in. Checked all the wiring and multiplugs, all seem ok that I can see. and 'pop' the fuse blew again. No fan action at all. I've now run out of spares, and had missed the local halfrauds. So this will have to wait until tomorrow.going to try and have a look at the resistor tomorrow as it looks like it's buried down the bottom of the radiator. It does seem to take ages to get up to the temperature it needs to be to kick the fans in, as I had no issues on the way home from work today in nose to tail traffic, so fingers crossed it shouldn't overheat at the MOT tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Well, Key card has been handed over to the service department for an MOT, Lets see how this goes.... SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Good luck! Don't forget, it's OK to cry Volksy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angle Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Just a CV boot, that's not too bad. This thread appears to have turned in to a bit of a Laguna owners support group... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Bargain! Well passed that man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 On the civic, it kept blowing fuses for internal fan. It was a cable that had chaffed and when the electric cooling fan kicked in it blew it against metal shorting it. Pain in the bum to find Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Just a CV boot, that's not too bad. This thread appears to have turned in to a bit of a Laguna owners support group... Aye, and not needing a replacement, just resecuring. Doesn't help the overheating or other bits though. However I now don't mind spending a bit of cash on it to sort it out. barefoot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Managed to 'sort of' cure the non functioning cooling fan. Seems it was the resistor. After studying the advice given by 'Goona-Sage SiC' above, I thought, well the resistor is only there to provide a two speed fan, and it actually slows the fan down as apposed to speeding it up, so if I bypass it, I'll only have a one speed (fast) fan. As the A/C is non func on this car as well, M.Bolleux tried pretty much everything to get it working in his ownership, the low speed is probably mainly used when the A/C is on and therefore pretty much unnecessary. The resistor is situated in an inaccessible, knuckle shredding place (Quelle Surpise) between the fan **MAY START AT ANY MOMENT** and the underside of the battery box and ECU. I managed to pull it out, and bypassed the two terminals. I then, to test it, did the same with the temp sensor on the thermostat, and wanged a fuse in the 60a port, where none have survived before now! When I inserted the key card, it went through its various checks, no lights stayed on, so I don't seem to have upset any of the fragile Alzheimer ridden brains Lagunas seem to be equipped with.Although, surprisingly, there was no movement from the cooling fan. thankfully the fuse hadn't become a contained supernova or formed any dark matter.. Maybe C.E.R.N should get one of these as I'm sure I've created on several occasions, what many scientists and that giant ring under lake Geneva are looking for! I gingerly pressed the Start button and it fired up, with the cooling fan happily whizzing round!! Result! The resistor unit was pretty corroded, and a new one from Renault is only about £35, however a call to my local scrappy finds them with 'Quite a few Lagunas in' at the moment. Will go and see if they have any similar to mine next week on my day off. The offending part: Meanwhile I've re-connected the temp sensor, and will give it a run this evening to see if the fan kicks in and out on its own. Fingers crossed! In other news, I've disabled the Headlight washers again for now, as the multiplug I disconnected in the boot lid also controlled the High-Level Stoplamp as well as the HRW. Given the blind numptys on the roads I'd rather they have maximum warning that I'm stopping than two half functioning perfume spritzers on my front bumper. It did manage on the weekend a good run up to the northeast, then to Whitby and back, cruising at 85 and returning 34mpg. Seems it's like my old 306 in that it seems to be most harmonious at 80-85mph, which is around 140kph, I guess the French must tune them for the max speed on the french autoroutes. SiC and Lacquer Peel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 Driving home from work yesterday, this spat its dummy out.In the outside lane of a dual carriageway, I accellerated , well tried to, and the car was having none of it. Oddly no blackpool illuminations on the dash, no mechanical chacophany, smoke or pistons flying through the bonnet.... Limped it home, and noticed that there is now a noticable turbo whistle, which wasn't there before, so I'm assuming that there is a split intake hose somewhere. As the car runs, idles, and drives ok apart from the lack of omph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 The acceptable boost range before it throws a light is probably pretty large. Hopefully it's not the turbo on the way out either. Check for splits and also check the wastegate arm hasn't come off. How old are/condition of the vac pipes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volksy Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 I'm assuming as the turbo is merrily whistling away, that it's all present and correct, also there is no blue smoke so can also assume that it's not shat it's seals. Will have a poke about under the bonnet tomorrow and see what the situation is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Probably blown a hose off or split one as you say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayW Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Same symptoms as a friends Goona 125 Privilege that spat the turbot out, no EML either. Took 4 hours to change including I/C cleanout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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