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Most comprehensive MOT phails evah?


sierraman

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It's no barometer of a cars condition, I've had cars that passed every test but they were still bags of shit.

Agreed, private hire taxis are a prime example of this!

 

As for rusty Mazdas, I remember the local Ford/Mazda dealer trying to punt me a 54 plate 6 saloon, low mileage but just had apparently a grand of work done on it in early 2012, for £2995, I think it must've been the cleanest most rot free 8 year old Mazda I've ever seen!

 

I did see an 06 plate 3 Sport hatch recently which was so fucked the rot was up to the rear quarter window, it really did look like if you stared at it hard enough it would crumble into a pile of dust! Saw an 08 Vauxhall Zafira with rusty door bottoms yesterday as well, although that's unusual!

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The 1997 Mondeo I had failed the test every year I had it, but it did nearly 70,000 miles no bother with me.

 

When we had the Micra it was what I'd describe as uneconomically rotten, it was patch over patch on the sills, it's still going now 6 years later but it's wanted some fairly serious welding every year.

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Not my car but one I witnessed at a garage in Norwich when at Uni in the late 80's. I'd taken in some hack (IIRC it was my old Allegro) which looked like hell but was very sound and I'd fixed it up mechanically so it had no issues. Anyway, this smug, smarmy clown who owned a really flashy looking Beetle painted in that then-trendy toffee-apple-shiny bright red hue complete with all usual accessories (Empi's etc) and what looked like the result of a chrome factory explosion, was snorting and sneering at my heap compared to his steed. 

 

So imagine his face when mine passed with (IIRC only one minor point noted) and his failed.......... as in failed like a motherfucker! It was the first time I'd ever seen a fail certificate so full it needed a continuation sheet to list all the issues! 

The tester patiently explained to him that what he'd bought (a few months prev apparantly) was an utterly rotten floorpan and chassis with u/s suspension, steering and brakes that was covered in a shiny paintjob and lots of chrome, basically a polished turd. Literally everything that could fail aside from the tyres and most of the lights had done so. 

Exit smugboy stage left. I actually felt sorry for him to be honest despite him being a twat. 

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 Saw an 08 Vauxhall Zafira with rusty door bottoms yesterday as well, although that's unusual!

I see this quite a lot in my game.

 

usually caused when some numbskull has replaced the door skins after an accident and not bothered with any paint or wax in the seams...

 

Most recent one i saw was a 12 plate mondeo estate belonging to a trade customer. It was silver with a brown scabby tide mark along the bottom of the doors on one side

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This is a Pajero I had a few years ago, I sold it prior to needing this test, suffice it to say that it hasn't been presented for another one since.

 

 

Registration number: H198EJR


Vehicle make MITSUBISHI
Vehicle model SHOGUN
Date first used 31 December 1991
Fuel type Diesel
Colour Green

MOT history of this vehicle
Test date 3 June 2015
Test Result Fail
Odometer reading 220,710 miles
MOT test number 9876 1435 5169

Reason(s) for failure
Nearside Registration plate lamp not working (1.1.C.1d)
Horn not working (1.6.2a)
Nearside Rear Stop lamp not working (1.2.1b)
Rear fog lamp not working (1.3.2b)
Nearside Front Brake hose leaking (3.6.A.1)
Nearside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c)
Nearside Front Front constant velocity joint gaiter damaged to the extent that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt etc (2.5.C.1a)
Offside Front Front constant velocity joint gaiter damaged to the extent that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt etc (2.5.C.1a)
Offside Front Front wheel bearing has excessive play (2.5.A.3c)
Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)
Nearside Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion which adversely affects braking or steering (6.1.A.1)
Nearside Rear Trailing arm rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
Offside Rear Trailing arm rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.B.7)
Nearside Rear rear brake recording little or no effort (3.7.B.5a)
Offside Rear rear brake recording little or no effort (3.7.B.5a)

Advisory notice item(s)
Nearside Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
Rear brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (3.5.1i)
Oil leak
no emissions test due to major leak
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Just a thought but see all these cars with mega fails on things like bushes, ball joints, CV gaiters and joints, drop links and wheel bearings, I cant comprehend how someone could drive a car around like that until MOT time, all the various clanks, bangs, knocks, rattles and noises that would be made constantly itd drive me up the wall, id end up having to get it fixed before i torched the bloody thing! and are some people so oblivious to noises that they dont realise there is faults on their car which its going to fail on and maybe get it fixed before testing it? Are pre-mot's still a thing? 

 

Generally I get a service and MOT done together, serviced first, any issues im not aware of picked up and repaired then MOTd. Although theres never usually anything wrong because odd mechanical noises on a car bug the tits off me and I end up sorting it right away. 

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Aye, I love using TotalCarCheck to suss out any of the ropey looking stuff.

 

Favourite targets are anything with less than a month left on the test - because why would you send a car to auction without putting it through another test and getting another 20% on the sale price? Oh yeah, because it's a massive basket case.

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Aye, I love using TotalCarCheck to suss out any of the ropey looking stuff.

 

Favourite targets are anything with less than a month left on the test - because why would you send a car to auction without putting it through another test and getting another 20% on the sale price? Oh yeah, because it's a massive basket case.

I think along similar lines when I see cars on eBay/gumtree with "non runner, just needs a water pump hence cheap price" etc and I just think if that's all that's wrong why wouldn't you just spend the money to get it fixed and get a fair bit more money added to ty cars value when you sell it, so clearly there's more to it than that!

 

I also often wonder if any of the cars going cheap with a seemingly expensive fault to fix are ever bought and repaired with some simple and cheap fix like seems to happen often on wheeler dealers, like for example the Porsche Boxster with seemingly borked tiptronic which seemingly just needed a fluid change and new filter. Personally I'd try the cheap fixes to rule them out before puntIng a car on the cheap because it needs a fortune spent on repairing a fault.

 

What's the general consensus on advisories? Do you get them sorted when they are picked up on the MOT even if the car doesn't fail on anything or get the advisories repaired while the fails are being sorted or do you leave them till they get worse or fail completely?

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Aye, I love using TotalCarCheck to suss out any of the ropey looking stuff.

 

Favourite targets are anything with less than a month left on the test - because why would you send a car to auction without putting it through another test and getting another 20% on the sale price? Oh yeah, because it's a massive basket case.

Was it you that ran one through and it had 2 or 3 mot's a few months apart with varying degrees of fails each time? Looked like they tried numerous testers.
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I've had old bangers that's failed on wheel bearing etc, known about it prior to the test, but I wanted to see whatever else it failed on. Didn't want to spend an afternoon fitting a bearing then it fail on a shit load of other stuff like emissions etc.

 

The 'only needs' type advert is a fools game, if it was something simple they'd have done it. I've sold complete bags of shit on Gumtree before, played daft and said the old 'I'm no mechanic etc, I've been told etc..'

 

Anybody worth their salt knows all this about it being a minor fault that costs £20 to put right is extremely unlikely.

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