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Dollywobbler's Bluebird - Buy an award winner! £SOLD


dollywobbler

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Ideally you would have turned the engine to TDC before dismantling so you had timing reference points lined up.

Its not a big deal, but just be careful putting it back together that you dont get the timing 180 degrees out.

 

Actually, I did mark the camshaft, as I marked the belt position before taking the head off. I've not removed the belt yet, because I didn't want to lose that point of reference just yet. Anyway, job now on hold until I can find someone to do the skimming.

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why ^^^ :/

 

I use "stag wellseal" where I can

 

Get a straight edge on that head, if it does need a skim it will needs valves out anyway. 

 

Crank engine to tdc, set the cam up for tdc also before reassembly, makes life a shit load easier and stops valves bending on pistons.

 

check each combustion chamber on the head for valve seat goodness with a bit of fuel / thinners etc. wind the cam over to get the cylinder you are checking on tdc, saves removing cam and rocker gear (what a weird setup that is :D

 

Looks like it will need a couple of cans of jizer and a jolly good backflush on the cooling system

 

what a mess

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I think I may have to take a chance on this one. Factoring in time, travel and expense, doing anything at all with the head is starting to push costs into a place I don't like very much. This car has already cost me £500, plus a gasket set and, if I'm sensible, a timing belt kit. Oh, and I must remember a thermostat.

 

By my eye, which isn't necessarily a good one, it seems pretty straight. I think I'd rather run the risk given I at least know it is a pretty easy job if it does all go tits up, and at least I know all the nuts will come undone...

 

Perfectionists look away now...

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Personally for an old banger I'd be checking the head with a straight edge and whacking it back together . I would prob even leave it on the old cambelt until I knew there were no further pressure / overheating issues . Does this have stretch bolts ?

 

Apparently not. Similarly, I'm tempted to leave the belt. Doesn't look a hideous job to do, and it's not like I'm really that close to getting the old belt off. Looks like the engine mount needs removing to allow access. Mind you, I haven't actually slackened the adjuster yet, so I may have to take more stuff off yet. Belt could just about be pushed off the cam drive, though I suspect it won't go back on as easily...

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And after a homebrew skim, this is what it looks like. Two grades of sandpaper under a flat piece of glass. Definitely better, still not perfect.

18557306_10155326201708200_3571079076810

 

Seems to be that the most important areas are around the cylinders, as that's where most pressure is. These areas seem well and there doesn't seem to be any distortion in the head. It is still a bit mucky around the water galleries, but I'm hoping the lower pressure of coolant means this won't be a problem. I guess we'll see...

 

Trigg - have you got the Autodata pages with the head tightening sequence?

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Purely on the basis of doing it orn the cheep the following bodges might dig you out of a hole

 

assuming that you cannot borrow a torque wrench, get a breaker bar, measure 1 foot from the centre of the square bit the socket goes on, use a jubilee clip to secure your fishing spring balance, pulling on that should get you to the right ft/lb setting. far from ideal but needs must and interested to see how it goes.

 

re that head^^ does the crinkle match the location of a hgf blow through? If not get some sealer like wellseal and lube it up. the fire ring (snigger) is quite wide and that damage doesnt look like it goes right across. if the gasket did blow through there probably could use a skim

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re that head^^ does the crinkle match the location of a hgf blow through? If not get some sealer like wellseal and lube it up. the fire ring (snigger) is quite wide and that damage doesnt look like it goes right across. if the gasket did blow through there probably could use a skim

 

Sadly, that is one of the places I think it had failed. Did a very similar spot on number three cylinder - the spark plug on that cylinder was mouldy when it came out! I may have to concede defeat on the redneck skim and get it done properly.

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If you must do a redneck skim on a head, dont use abrasive paper use grinding paste, much easier and much less likely to ruin things.

 

But that head needs a skim, and I would get it pressure tested first 'coz it looks as if it might be a bit porous.

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I know your getting it from all barrels today DW but that head probably should be skimmed, saves you doing the job twice which inevitably be happening again if you don't. Here's what the Autodata book has on it, i don't know if it helps at all.

 

bba597f43dcd8317439678f0b1ada54e.jpg

 

6ba13c5eb389cc6fd6420d8672073a6f.jpg

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