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Engine flushing


Owain-328i

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Ok guys, i know im dealing with real men here unlike the pussys on the BMW forums.Now i want to perform a proper engine flush on my straight six 24v bmw next time its due an oil change (soon).Im planning on going the litre of diesel route with it, none of this weedy wynns engine flush. I dont want to be too cavalier about it all, so whats the correct procedure to maintain when diesel flushing?Thanks :D

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So are u telling me that the pussys are right and i shouldent flush it with diesel? Obviously im no moron :lol: and was going to add it to the oil already in there to flush it out tidy, but im not sure how long to leave it in there for!

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Ive flushed a old rattly CVH with diesel before and it worked ok. Drained out the old oil, removed the filter, let the filter drain for a bit on top of the drain can and put it back on, put half a gallon of cherry in the engine, started it up half expecting it to throw a rod but just let it idle didnt rev it, left it to idle for a few mins and drained it all off, put new filter and oil in and I must admit it did sound a bit better after, drove it around for a few thousand miles after without any issues before it got stolen and weighed in by a "joseph smith" according to the yard I found out it ended up fragged at.

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You can safely go two ways - a forte flush, or proper thin flushing oil left in for half on 1500 revs (comma do it, green can.)Or do what my BMW 523 has got for the 4 services - an hour run from work followed by the oil being dropped and left for an hour - no complaints here.Mind you I ran a 1.7 340 on diesel oil for 2 years cos it was what we stuck in the catipillars :lol: When allright :wink:

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lol there all saying go for it now, and to put half a litre of ATF fluid in it and use gently for a week, the drain out hot, and pour clean oil through it to get it all out before doing the sump up and refilling.Im sceptical :?

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Guest Kyle

I'm not a huge fan of flushing oil systems TBH. I've seen 2 engines drop their oil on the deck due to seal failure caused by Forte of all things.Thing that really turned me against it is having several cars come in that had been DIY serviced, all had been flushed and suffered bottom end failure.On strip down every one had the same problem, oil strainer clogged solid.Releasing all the deposits in a running engine can only lead to it going one way, to the oil pump via strainer. Strainer blocks, engine strves of oil, goodbye engine.I was getting customers to sign disclaimers 20 years ago if they wanted a flush doing.Just my opinion and experiences.

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Personally I'd stick with what Andrew said, Purchase some Comma Flush Out Oil

 

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It's a good drop of gear, Used to sell it to many garages whilst I worked at the motor factors, It's about £12-14 for the 5 liters and available from most motor factors, Wilcos and Halfords places.

 

Why risk using something your unsure about and risk killing for engine when for £14 for can buy the pucka stuff?

 

Of course the other way of cleaning it out is to drain the old oil, Then refill with some cheaper supermarket stuff, Run it up for a bit to get it nice and warm, Then redrain out, change Filter and then refill with your new good oil.

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Of course the other way of cleaning it out is to drain the old oil, Then refill with some cheaper supermarket stuff, Run it up for a bit to get it nice and warm, Then redrain out, change Filter and then refill with your new good oil.

Seconded. :D
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Of course the other way of cleaning it out is to drain the old oil, Then refill with some cheaper supermarket stuff, Run it up for a bit to get it nice and warm, Then redrain out, change Filter and then refill with your new good oil.

What? You mean there is OTHER oil that isn't cheap supermarket stuff??? :shock::shock:
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When the head went on my M20 last year, I bought some flushing oil from GSF and a cheapo filter. Ran it up on that then drained and changed filter and put on proper one and dropped in some proper oil by Halfrauds :lol: The car only cost me £70 to buy 2+ years ago. 8)

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