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Staggering Shenanigans - Fixing a mates Stag page 6


richardthestag

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I can spot a good reason why this car might run too hot in slower traffic - there's no fan shroud. For the fan to be even remotely effective, there needs to be a plastic shroud around the fan - it enables it to create a kind of vortex (or whatever) and the fans actually sucks air through the rad - all that fan is doing is drawing hot air from around the rad and blowing it across the engine. Take the fan shroud off of an E28 for example and it will always run hotter. I'd buy a selection of shrouds from a scrapyard and trim one to fit - I bet it will make a big difference.

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I can spot a good reason why this car might run too hot in slower traffic - there's no fan shroud. For the fan to be even remotely effective, there needs to be a plastic shroud around the fan - it enables it to create a kind of vortex (or whatever) and the fans actually sucks air through the rad - all that fan is doing is drawing hot air from around the rad and blowing it across the engine. Take the fan shroud off of an E28 for example and it will always run hotter. I'd buy a selection of shrouds from a scrapyard and trim one to fit - I bet it will make a big difference.

 

absolutely agree

 

There was a shroud introduced for the export markets but never the UK market. So Triumph were half way there but the accountants baulked them

 

possibly :)

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I would never do it as a stag with its original motor is too valuable now but I wonder if a bmw 330i motor would go in there ?

 

The Lexus 4litre 1UZ FE VVTI fits, according to one chap in SOC, though his thread has gone awfully quiet of recent.

 

I wonder why folk bother, there are rover v8 conversion kits available, to engineer a new engine solution just seems to me like a nightmare. He did do it but like I say went a bit quiet

 

and I could imagine that a 300bhp stag is going to be a bit of a handful, and with all that effort on engine and drivetrain why not just buy a Trevor

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A Stag without the TriumphOverAdversity V8 isn't really a Stag anymore.

 

But there is serious reengineering to be done. I'd have a modern crank made with thinner webs, decent sized journals and modern rods and pistons. Most BMW lumps have 86mm bores.

 

The timing chain set up is utter shit and clearly not fit for purpose. Rather than replace chains every 10 minutes, I'd ditch it and adapt some nice sintered timing gears from something else and run a proper duplex chain and tensioners that actually work. 

 

If you could buy a scrap engine, the chain reengineering job would be very interesting. I'd use V8 Merc bits.

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A Stag without the TriumphOverAdversity V8 isn't really a Stag anymore.

 

But there is serious reengineering to be done. I'd have a modern crank made with thinner webs, decent sized journals and modern rods and pistons. Most BMW lumps have 86mm bores.

 

The timing chain set up is utter shit and clearly not fit for purpose. Rather than replace chains every 10 minutes, I'd ditch it and adapt some nice sintered timing gears from something else and run a proper duplex chain and tensioners that actually work. 

 

If you could buy a scrap engine, the chain reengineering job would be very interesting. I'd use V8 Merc bits.

 

Eggsackerlay!

 

German Chains have already been addressed using JWIS/IWIS 104 and 106link chains as specified for Mercedes :D. They will take over a ton in weight before breaking, 68G is the spec for 12mm wide chain 1mm wider than original stag parts.

 

There is someone else who is working on a duplex chain setup but that requires extensive work to the timing cover, sump and front edge of the cylinder heads. one might ask what is the point. when standard or even JWIS chains can run upto 6.5k rpm and still last 25k miles which is the operating baseline.

 

BTW latest news is that reproduction chain sprockets are made from cheese and not only wear out well within the 25k life of the chains, but some are lasting barely 5k miles!! I shit you not

 

I agree that a bigger diameter crank would make sense but then extensive line boring of the block which may take out too much and then get too close to the webbing that supports the main bearings in the block and thus make it weaker rather than stronger :(

 

 

but for all the cost and aggravation, do it all on the cheap (comparatively) and it lasts minimum 30k miles which in stag circles could be 10 years?

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latest in Stag story

 

Further to the sudden loss of oil pressure.

 

Removed that RH chain and found that the tensioning guide was right at its limit, the valve timing was still spot on and the tensioner was ok. 

 

comparing the guide removed from my engine on the lhs, an aged 25k veteran in the middle and a new unit on the rhs, there are differences in the long slot, the veteran is nearly 1mm longer at the full tension end if you get my drift

post-3439-0-78368000-1493833272_thumb.jpg

 

this is the slot I am talking about

post-3439-0-01832900-1493833278_thumb.jpg

 

the chain runs along a fibre type pad, on the left is the 25k veteran in the middle with the same wear is the item that went on in the 2013 engine rebuild !! it has barely done 4k miles ...qualitay

post-3439-0-05617300-1493833276_thumb.jpg

 

I rebuilt the chain using the brand new tensioner guide and got it ok, but am concerned that the pad will wear at the same frigging rate as the 2013 item. although the new one did come from a hyper reputable supplier so fingers crossed

 

Cranked the engine over on the starter and barely got 10psi after 90seconds of cranking, tis a long time to hold your breath.

 

So in a nutsack, so far

  1. removed distributor and wound over the oil pump anti clockwise. took an age to get up to 20psi
  2. removed oil filter and pump, pump is in good order
  3. checked hex drive and both distributor and oil pump for close fit and all is well
  4. started engine and was dismayed to see 10psi so switched off
  5. removed front cover and RH chain and replaced tensioner guide, 
  6. reinstalled and cranked it over until the battery went flat to get max 10psi near 2 mins of cranking

There is oil flow though, as it is dripping out of the hydraulic tensioners

post-3439-0-20772700-1493833280_thumb.jpg

 

Then I had one of those Eureka type thoughts overnight that the oil pressure gauge uses unfiltered oil. unlikely that the pickup is blocked but likely that the oil gauge or pipe is. 
 
see below for oil path in the triumph v8
post-3439-0-90620800-1493833280_thumb.jpg
 
just nipped out tonight and installed a spare mechanical gauge to the engine, removed distributor and wound it anti clockwise 
 
almost straight to 40psi
 
right just need to put it back together again now. 
 
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before it all goes together again I wanted to start tidying the engine bay up. why not start with the timing cover :D

 

give it a quick gunk off

post-3439-0-97597300-1493843328_thumb.jpg

 

Then to fix all 9 threaded holes, All were borked, 1970s casting and fine threads dont last. Check out my thread repair kit. all UNC thread repairs in here and ideal for old alloy

post-3439-0-91377300-1493843330_thumb.jpg

 

Choose the thread size, in my case 5/16th 18tpi was the closest in diameter to the original. Use the drill to take the hole out

post-3439-0-61371000-1493843333_thumb.jpg

 

use the supplied tap to thread the hole, goes through like a knife and hot butter

post-3439-0-28025900-1493843335_thumb.jpg

 

install thread on insert tool

post-3439-0-33773500-1493843337_thumb.jpg

 

wind it into the newly threaded hole

post-3439-0-56674900-1493843339_thumb.jpg

 

just like that! because the holes are not bottomless and there is a risk that I might wind the threaded repair right through with the new bolt I only threaded the first 2/3 of the hole

post-3439-0-79342700-1493843341_thumb.jpg

 

knock off the flange (snigger) that allows the thread repair to be wound into the new hole. the break off easily

post-3439-0-03864200-1493843344_thumb.jpg

 

all done, just 8 more

post-3439-0-09911800-1493843346_thumb.jpg

 

finished up with a lick of VHT alloy paint, tbh hammerite would probably do it but I had this can on the shelf

post-3439-0-90689700-1493843347_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

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been a bit of a cunty weekend for working on the staaaag

 

yesterday I concentrated my efforts on getting it all back together sure that the oil pressure issues were as a result of the gauge. after all spinning it up on a drill with a different gauge showed a healthy 45psi.

 

new gaskets came off the man cave shelf, thank goodness I am OCD about car part storage

post-3439-0-17776800-1494178168_thumb.jpg

 

already planning to give the engine and bay a deep pressure wash clean

post-3439-0-22488900-1494178170_thumb.jpg

 

dash apart to fit spare gauge in place of clock

post-3439-0-19060100-1494178172_thumb.jpg

 

also fitted a T so that I can for first time ever wire both gauge and oil pressure lights up

post-3439-0-93483900-1494178174_thumb.jpg

 

test fire up showed 20 psi of oil pressure. bastard!!!

 

rh chain is rattling but goes away after about 30 seconds. I didnt rev it but did remove LH cam cover to check oil flow, which it was, very messy business.

 

Decided to turn the car around in the yard so I can reverse it into the garage and make my life easier. Aside from the 20psi shit it runs amazingly, 

 

stuck it in the garage and went away to sulk like you do

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this morning I woke up and curiosity got the better of me! sumps gonna have to come off.

 

that means the cross member needs to come out BUT before that

 

Anti rollbar links need to come off

post-3439-0-35968400-1494178550_thumb.jpg

 

steering rack mounts and NS exhaust down pipe

post-3439-0-57608900-1494178553_thumb.jpg

 

wishbone

post-3439-0-14477400-1494178557_thumb.jpg

 

on both sides

post-3439-0-43674100-1494178560_thumb.jpg

 

then just 8 bolts hold the cross member to the body

post-3439-0-06352400-1494178566_thumb.jpg

 

access for sump removal now good

post-3439-0-01122400-1494178563_thumb.jpg

 

bolts down both side. while doing this I drained the oil which came out of gloops. I already know what the issue is!!

post-3439-0-01490700-1494178572_thumb.jpg

 

I am pretty fucked off with myself. I am normally OCD when it comes to nuts, bolts, tools and blue cloth but it would appear that 4, yes 4 frigging sheets of the stuff got into the sump

post-3439-0-29036800-1494178575_thumb.jpg

 

you stuff the rag in as follows to stop you dropping tools, bolts, false teeth into the sump

post-3439-0-10590900-1494179032_thumb.jpg

 

still the engine looks nice and clean still 

post-3439-0-20280400-1494178578_thumb.jpg

 

I also found this rogue bolt that used to secure the cam sprocket to the cam, I recall loosing this nearly 4 years ago so happy it has been recovered 

post-3439-0-72676900-1494179040_thumb.jpg

 

I iz a twat

post-3439-0-48571400-1494179036_thumb.jpg

 

Good news Gaskets on order to rebuild it again, should only take a couple of hours

Bad news weldage needed on NS front footwell where it joins to the sill 

double bad news MOT is 28 May, welder is exactly 195miles from me

triple bad news cant get to it until weekend of 28/29 May

Weldage probably early June then MoT then happy days

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forum is saved for another munth, thanks Daveb47 Mike Cavcraft and those doing clever things

 

This place seriously is part of my support group! shonky motors and even shonkier owners. Last two days has been low so I thought I would put the old stag back together again

 

Last night I replaced the sump

 

post-3439-0-70216500-1494528950_thumb.jpg

 

it is a bugger to fit because 

a. you are working upside down

b. the sodding brake pipe dangling across the engine bay keeps getting in the way

c. the rear lip of the sump slots into a gap on the gearbox adapter plate

d. wriggling the sump past the oil pickup and into the slot while keeping a wellsealled gaskit in place is a bit of a nightmare

 

post-3439-0-75310200-1494528952_thumb.jpg

 

fitted all bolts before nipping them all up, there that only took 2 hours

 

post-3439-0-12675800-1494528956_thumb.jpg

 

Tonight I reinstalled the crossmember - 8 bolts. supported it on the jack and nipped a couple of bolts in then it was easy to do the others.

 

Refitted the steering rack and all the n/s front suspension. Had to run some errands so called it a day 1h 30m. 

 

post-3439-0-97015100-1494528957_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-46055600-1494528960_thumb.jpg

 

Tomorrow ?!? I will reinstall the exhaust and o/s suspension, nip up the steering shaft, fit the wheels and drop it to the deck before torquing the wishbone bolts up. recon on 1 to 2 hours depending on breaks other stuff i need to do etc

 

Then it is fill with oil, prime the pump and start it. if 45psi happy days and refit rad etc if not sulk until I can find enthusiasm :D

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update from tonight

 

post-3439-0-58107000-1494618305_thumb.jpg

 

an hour to get the osf suspension back together and drop it back onto the ground.

 

post-3439-0-21320900-1494618309_thumb.jpg

 

really do need to sort that cataract

 

post-3439-0-69392900-1494618311_thumb.jpg

 

I have a nice stubby torque wench which is useful for doing up things like wishbone bolts to 80ft lbs under a car on the ground. Aint easy, ramps might have made it easier, done now

 

next refil the sump

post-3439-0-47539900-1494618314_thumb.jpg

 

cranked it over to tdc

post-3439-0-95214700-1494618316_thumb.jpg

 

so the dizzy could come out, so I could prime the oil pump with my drill

post-3439-0-34903900-1494618319_thumb.jpg

 

It went straight to 50psi, admittedly the oil filter was already full but I am chuffed with that 

 

dissy goes back in TDC on a stag v8 is on cylinder #2, which is where that rotor arm is pointing

post-3439-0-57466600-1494618321_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-66189200-1494618323_thumb.jpg

 

the next half hour was spent reinstalling power steering pump and alternator.

 

tomorrows I pull it out and start it up

 

have a good feeling about this.

 

then just need to fill the cooling system up and drive it 190miles to where all my welding stuff is so I can fix that wobbly passenger footwell

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its all back together and runs great

 

post-3439-0-86525800-1494691149_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-32486900-1494691152_thumb.jpg

 

test start to check oil pressure, happy with that. 

post-3439-0-73519100-1494691153_thumb.jpg

 

out for a test ride with Matt #1 son who doesnt really fit in the car

post-3439-0-87695800-1494691155_thumb.jpg

 

only issues I have are;

 

cooling system will not pressurise, i.e. it is running at atmospheric pressure which is not going to help it on hot days. was ok today but even then it got to 90 degrees after some spirited driving.

 

Pressurised cooling system raises the boiling point, with a 20lb cap the boiling point is iro 130 degrees.

With an unpressurised system the boiling point is iro 100 degrees depending on how far above sea level you are.

 

I loaned my pressure tester to a mate and wont get it back till tomorrow

 

It is not losing water so the leak has to be above the water line or very very small indeed but below the water line. if it were the latter I would expect the system to pressurise but then hiss all the pressure out as well as loosing some water.

 

I suspect the bloody aftermarket header tank is leaking somehwhere 

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tis fixed

 

I couldnt easily find the leak because it was obviously above the water level and my ears are shit at hearing hisses etc.

 

The plan was to brim the bastard and spot the water leak

 

easy peasy nip off that rad plug and . oh. bloody top of the rad has broken orf. better deal with that on the morrow

post-3439-0-62844500-1494776706_thumb.jpg

 

dragged stag out of garage this morning and wondered, some cunt has stolen my unobtainium stag badge........

 

 

oh there it is. 

post-3439-0-01346200-1494776709_thumb.jpg

 

rad out is 2 hose clamps, two screws for the grill, two bolts and two nuts. easy compared to just about any other job in this car

post-3439-0-29776200-1494776711_thumb.jpg

 

here are the two bits that needs to be one. started cleaning back ready for soldering

post-3439-0-92453700-1494776713_thumb.jpg

 

soldered

post-3439-0-57703100-1494776715_thumb.jpg

 

painted

post-3439-0-68604000-1494776717_thumb.jpg

 

Car works, cooling system pressurises, Sir Winston appoves

post-3439-0-60663600-1494776719_thumb.jpg

 

So does Spock

post-3439-0-55207000-1494776721_thumb.jpg

 

Next stop North Devon next weekend to weld up the passenger footwell

 

p.s. hardly any beer was consumed in fixing this car

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Great thread, really loving all this stuff. But I must confess, my ardor for a Stag  would have long cooled by now. I once owned half a Stag, it was a 1971 Saab 99 with the 1709cc Triumph engine. I miss that car, should have just put a new cylinder head on it. It was very smooth running.

 

Where will the car be in North Devon, as I live there and would love to catch a glimpse of this car.

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whs ^^ I am in love with the damn thing again

 

185 miles in a smidge over 3 hours

 

oil pressure remained at 45psi the whole way, temp fluctuated from 80-85degrees c. 

 

wont know how much pez it gobbled until I refill

 

roof up the whole way due to April showers in May until Swindon and then I simply couldnt be arsed to stop to get the hood down.

 

pez stop in Hazlemere, brimmed it with standard unleaded as this was not going to be a high speed dash to Le Mans or somewhere similarly blokish that would warrant super pez

post-3439-0-24851900-1495146106_thumb.jpg

 

shit weatherz until after Swindon kept be busy, the drivers side wiper makes an annoying noise as it slaps the screen rubber at the bottom of the screen

 

never mind though, soon in sight of "Tit" hill and the Zomerzet border

post-3439-0-96729600-1495146117_thumb.jpg

 

should I sell up and move on

post-3439-0-32838900-1495146799_thumb.jpg

 

no way, all is forgiven

post-3439-0-20488600-1495146800_thumb.jpg

 

appen we be up Devon

post-3439-0-30778900-1495146117_thumb.jpg

 

The link road to Barnstaple was enjoyed with an amazing array of colours

post-3439-0-23896800-1495146112_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-99702900-1495146112_thumb.jpg

 

This arse hat was on my tail for ages with an out of adjustment headlamp. wanted to pull him over and ask for 2 x 99s and a fuckin Mivvi

post-3439-0-63665000-1495146116_thumb.jpg

 

arrived at Fatha thastags, weldage will take place on Saturday

post-3439-0-21778700-1495146111_thumb.jpg

 

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Stag is now on the ramps 

 

why?

 

Mr Probey found a hole, he is also good at opening paint tins and general prodding

 

This is the joint between the inner sill and the passenger footwell. The sill is solid, needs a bit of angle to be tidily welded in.All the brown stuff is old carpet glue.

post-3439-0-55239600-1495216036_thumb.jpg

 

Ramps help give me the clearance to do the job

 

position ramps in front of car

post-3439-0-93520600-1495216028_thumb.jpg

 

Drive on

post-3439-0-54591200-1495216030_thumb.jpg

 

Attach pump and 25 seconds of light pumpage. if the ground is not level you can start pumping one ramp before the second joins the party. 

post-3439-0-96647900-1495216031_thumb.jpg

 

ramps are locked into raised position by lever that braces against the hydraulic ram. once locked the pump could be removed to give better access

post-3439-0-57769500-1495216033_thumb.jpg

 

Front bumper is 3 foot off the ground

post-3439-0-22420000-1495216035_thumb.jpg

 

only issue was that RH carb started leaking, disabled fuel pump and started the engine to run it dry

post-3439-0-13514600-1495216038_thumb.jpg

 

Having a beer now

 

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