twosmoke300 Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 If you can get into the back of the fuse box then cut the wires into that fuse and fit an inline one in its place . Or if you are really tight two female lucars taped together alf892 and Rusty_Rocket 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 This car is ace! It tells you what's wrong! So, I know that the stumbling before Check Engine light is because the Oxygen sensor is duff. It also tells me that Fuse 1, PAO is a problem. I've no idea what PAO is, other than a funky Nissan, but maybe PAO is a code for MY FUSE BOX HAS FUGGIN MELTED! Fuse 1 relates to Fusebox 1, which is the melty one. There is also a fusebox in the centre console, and another on the left-hand side. At least this means that if one fusebox melts, there are some others, so some things still work. That was clever planning. The Moog, Skizzer, DeeJay and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillock Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Bums. Not conductive.Alternatively, TOO conductive. BorniteIdentity 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skizzer Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 This car is ace! It tells you what's wrong! So, I know that the stumbling before Check Engine light is because the Oxygen sensor is duff. It also tells me that Fuse 1, PAO is a problem. I've no idea what PAO is, other than a funky Nissan, but maybe PAO is a code for MY FUSE BOX HAS FUGGIN MELTED! Fuse 1 relates to Fusebox 1, which is the melty one. There is also a fusebox in the centre console, and another on the left-hand side. At least this means that if one fusebox melts, there are some others, so some things still work. That was clever planning.Compare and contrast wth a Dolomite, which we learned today on BV's thread has only two fuses, never mind fuseboxes. And there was only a five year gap between the end of the Dolomite and the launch of the XJ40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnificent Rustbucket Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 This car is ace! It tells you what's wrong! So, I know that the stumbling before Check Engine light is because the Oxygen sensor is duff. It also tells me that Fuse 1, PAO is a problem. I've no idea what PAO is, other than a funky Nissan, but maybe PAO is a code for MY FUSE BOX HAS FUGGIN MELTED! Fuse 1 relates to Fusebox 1, which is the melty one. There is also a fusebox in the centre console, and another on the left-hand side. At least this means that if one fusebox melts, there are some others, so some things still work. That was clever planning. 'PAO' is actually 'PAD' - it is telling you the brake pads are worn out. They can do this if the brake pad sensor is not connected or sometimes if an excessive lip on the brake disk has sliced the outer coating of the sensor wire, thus triggering a PAD warning when the brakes are applied, even though the pads are actually ok. The melted fusebox is quite something - I have never seen that before on an XJ40. You have plenty to do with this one, that's for sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnificent Rustbucket Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 The snagging list.1. The heater controls do not work. At all. Currently, the heater is set to demist, so maximum heat at the windscreen. I had to drive with either the sunroof or the windows open. This spoiled the ambience.2. The right-hand indicators flash in double-time, as if a bulb is out. A bulb is not out, and they flash at normal speed outside.3. The left-hand indicators flash normally, then in double-time. Justified. The side indicator bulb has blown, and is utterly corroded in place. I suspect a new unit will be needed.4. The sunroof is rotten. A spare, in completely the wrong colour, is in the boot. Given I live in Wales, I'll have to fit it.5. The horn does not work. Nor does the screenwash. The Vehicle Control Module tells me Fuse 1 is dead. Maybe that's the problem. It explains the lightning warning symbol on the dash.6. After a few minutes of running, the engine stumbles. Then it throws on the Check Engine light, and runs much more sweetly. I decided to ignore this.7. The offside front caliper probably needs replacing. I suspect the nearside front is the same.8. The dampers feel tired. Bit bouncy. At least these only have two at the rear.9. The steering feels a touch vague at times. I suspect rack mounts.10. The map reading lights do not work. Frankly, this was almost a deal breaker. A project car is what I wanted, so I guess it's filling that role very nicely! Quite what I do about the shameful bodywork and horrendous lacquer peel, I'm not sure. Off out in the 2CV for 'drive it day' today, so I'm mostly ignoring it for now. 1) It sounds to me like there is more than one thing wrong with the HVAC system. Problems with the fan only working on 'High' and failing to start on other switch settings are often not the fault of the switch on the dash, but are a symptom of failed Darlington resistors on the blower motors themselves. The motors need to be removed from the dash to access the resistors. There are several threads about this on the internet, I will see if I can find them tomorrow. Heat distribution is done by a series of flaps in the air-conditioning unit in the dash. After a prolonged period of non-use, the flaps can get stuck on 'heat' or 'no heat' - or midway. The motors can get a little dead spot; I believe generally whacking them will shake them back to life. Again, there are posts on this - I will have a look. 2) The double flashing indicators can sometimes be caused by a poor quality bulb in one of the indicators (the Bulb failure module is sensitive to resistance), by a fault on one of the BFMs (see if you can swap the problem over to the other side) - and also by corrosion in the side repeater. This can be an annoying one, since the bulb sometimes corrodes in to the side repeater unit and won't come out. 3) Ah- just seen this - problem number two could be similar. 4) Sunroof fitting is not difficult on the XJ40, thankfully. 8 )XJ40s are heavy and demanding on their dampers. The springs seem to last well though. The bushes on the rear suspension are also long lasting. 9)It could be, but it could also be Vee mounts. If these are worn, it can give the front of the car a loose feel. XJ40s are very sensitive to front suspension geometry. If it is out through worn bushes etc., it has a very detrimental effect on the handling and feel of the car. DeeJay and mercedade 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 That statement is a credit to you, but this was a cheap car, bound to have cheap car faults. One can hardly make warranty claims on a £350 shitbox! I bought an identically coloured, identically yeared (K reg yo) 730i V8 auto from the same vendor (9/10 Wuold use agen) ten years ago for 100 pounds and the fusebox was decidedly unmelted. U WOZ ROBBED M8 It too was as rough as a badgers arse but it was superbly wafty. The mint front leathers, wood filets in the dash, boot carpets and some other morsels were raped/swapped onto my blue one before the motor was served to Mr Tetleysmooth of this parish. U WOZ ROBBED M8 320touring 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 The heater fan does not work. Ram air makes things toasty at speed. The fusebox melting suggests this is a major problem area. As to the previous post about pads, the exclamation warning light comes on everytime you brake. There were no pad warning wires on the offside... somewhatfoolish 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timewaster Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Two female spade connectors are the standard autoshite fuse holder. And much quicker and simpler to fit than changing the whole fuse box. GLWTJ sorry, GLWTD The Reverend Bluejeans and djimbob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 I bought an identically coloured, identically yeared (K reg yo) 730i V8 auto from the same vendor (9/10 Wuold use agen) ten years ago for 100 pounds and the fusebox was decidedly unmelted. U WOZ ROBBED M8 It too was as rough as a badgers arse but it was superbly wafty. The mint front leathers, wood filets in the dash, boot carpets and some other morsels were raped/swapped onto my blue one before the motor was served to Mr Tetleysmooth of this parish. U WOZ ROBBED M8WULD SELL TOO AGAIN The Reverend Bluejeans 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefag Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 I built the light and sound in that venue back in 1986, lovely town. AMC Rebel and eddyramrod 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 The heater fan does not work. Ram air makes things toasty at speed. The fusebox melting suggests this is a major problem area. As to the previous post about pads, the exclamation warning light comes on everytime you brake. There were no pad warning wires on the offside... Considering a standard job when buying this age of XJ40 is to take both fuseboxes in the footwells apart & resolder them, it could well be worth your while just replacing them. Magnificent Rustbucket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobthebeard Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Considering a standard job when buying this age of XJ40 is to take both fuseboxes in the footwells apart & resolder them, it could well be worth your while just replacing them.Or just setting fire to all your available money. Would be quicker but not as involving. My verdict is money pit. It will never be sorted to your satisfaction. Great dream though! ChinaTom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Or just setting fire to all your available money. Would be quicker but not as involving. The main connectors in those boxes are the source of about 90% of all electrical faults on XJ40s, at least in my experience. Bobthebeard and djimbob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 The equivalent of rolling it in glitter. I gave it a wash. richardthestag, Bobthebeard, privatewire and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Looks most presentable! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 Looks most presentable! It's a very flattering angle... Magnificent Rustbucket, 320touring, loserone and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six-cylinder Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 The equivalent of rolling it in glitter. I gave it a wash. It does look very nice, I hope you can get it to a point where its annoying faults are sorted. 320touring 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 It does look very nice, I hope you can get it to a point where its annoying faults are sorted. I think so. Sourcing a new fuse box should make a difference. That's on my initial shopping list, along with an offside front caliper (or rebuild kit, piston and sliders as a bare minimum). Need to get some Vactan on several crunchy spots too. Longer term, it's going to need new metal in a few places, a new windscreen, the gearbox attending to as it has a mild leak, new dampers and probably a few bushes too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 If only you had contacts in the jag world... DeeJay, The Moog and barefoot 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 I think so. Sourcing a new fuse box should make a difference. That's on my initial shopping list, along with an offside front caliper (or rebuild kit, piston and sliders as a bare minimum). Need to get some Vactan on several crunchy spots too. Longer term, it's going to need new metal in a few places, a new windscreen, the gearbox attending to as it has a mild leak, new dampers and probably a few bushes too. Is it actually worth doing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 Is it actually worth doing? I think so. It's not absolutely hanging, but I would like to get a specialist's point of view - working on that. 320touring 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Well, if you can blag bits, make money on DIY articles and so on, why not? The big mistake is trying to save cars. I gave up on that after I saw a lovingly restored 1993 318iS Coupe destroyed after some drift mong put it through a hedge - this was after it got rolled arches, big rimz (yo), a 2.5 engine after they completely fuck'd the lovely original 1.8 16v - all the usual E36 idiot nonsense. Show car to scrap. All in two years. trigger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobthebeard Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 A new windscreen should be easily sorted for circa £60.Insurance? Recently had one fitted on the Rover 75 for exactly that amount.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 25, 2017 Author Share Posted April 25, 2017 A new windscreen should be easily sorted for circa £60.Insurance?Recently had one fitted on the Rover 75 for exactly that amount.... It won't be an easy fit. The windscreen surround will definitely need some fettling and re-metaling before a new one can be fitted. Bobthebeard 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Being a Scottish car, that'll be as rusty as an old horseshoe underneath. A bare minimum resto is the way to go - windscreen places will scour rust from the aperture and paint some black stuff on before bonding the new screen in. Like the 730i I bought from Mr McTouring, a spot of wafting, low level essentials and oot the fuggin' baasard before a really big bill occurs. That E32 drove so well with a lovely interior, but it was rusty underneath and long term, a lost cause short of serious $$$$$$$ somewhatfoolish 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 25, 2017 Author Share Posted April 25, 2017 I suspect the windscreen is holding the A posts together. I'm not sure removing it is wise. Skizzer, somewhatfoolish and The Reverend Bluejeans 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share Posted April 26, 2017 Video time! Twiggy, Sloth in a bowl, Eddie Honda and 16 others 19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share Posted April 26, 2017 What is it with this bloody forum and YouTube links? Sometimes they embed, sometimes they don't. UGH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six-cylinder Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 What a great story, but I am glad it is your story to tell and not mine! Magnificent Rustbucket 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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