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Less modern laguna.. For SALE! Terrible price, £200, you have until monday at 9am to stake a claim!


beko1987

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My issue is more one of adjustment. The box has to pull the cables equally, hence me having to mess around winding both calipers back etc at the same time. If I could adjust a nut on one side this would have been blagged a while ago!

 

Ruddy new caliper is still seizing a bit. Will hit it some more at lunchtime, but I might whip it off later and clean it up as much as I can without actually removing any seals etc. That means I have to have the pass side off again, wind that back in etc etc.

 

Unless a slightly seized caliper will increase my chances of the braking system not being efficient? In which case I'll leave it! It didnt catch fire again, just pulling on slightly.

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No, it's a second hand caliper. I made the sliders spotless, and had the rubber boots out and cleaned those and the corrosion from inside where the rubbers go. Sliders greased up with caliper grease and before I pushed the piston out with the system it moved about on the sliders a treat.

 

I think the main piston is sticking a bit. The second hand pass side one did the same. I got a bit angry and smacked several shades of shit out of it which produced a big cloud of rusty shite and now it works fine, I need to do the same with the new drivers side one.

 

Really wish I could properly rebuild them, always wanted to rebuild a caliper. If it passes the test I might do it next year

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What im not getting the concept of here is if this electronic handbrake box is simply pulling on some cables the way an ordinary handbrake does then whats the point? Why not just leave it as an ordinary one?

 

Glad a lot of cars still have normal handbrakes and it hasnt really cottoned on, they should just scrap it altogether. 

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I think we all need to watch this thread closely. a simple handbrake adjustment will soon become a fifteen page saga

like that bloke's attempts to remove the original and now legendary locking wheel-nut!

I can't adjust it short of removing and playing with a box of renault electronics and cables, and I only know of one person on here brave enough to do that, and he owns a second car so isn't affected by trivial matters such as not being able to get to work etc.

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So, just been out at lunchtime on mums drive for one last ditch attempt! It seems the handbrake lever on the new second hand caliper is sticking (a common fault apparently). Eyeballing it properly after teaching mum how to work the handbrake revealed it sticking. A quick tap with a hammer had it ping open and the caliper not grab.

 

So 20 minutes and 1/4 a can of wd40, a small screwdriver and a cable tie had lots of crap flushed out, and the lever working OK.. Then the handbrake fault warning came up on the dash. buggar...

 

So, I tried my OBD reader, and after I worked out that I don't connect to it first then boot up torque, I have it showing on available devices (and turn the headunit off so it doesnt connect to that instead), torque connected fine, and found 3 error codes which were nothing to do with the handbrake, but I cleared them anyway. Then I rememberd SIC's oh no renault, so downloaded it, and it fugging worked, and connected, and bought up about 8 handbrake module errors. I paid a quid to get 14 days use, and it bloody cleared the lot and took the warning off, result!

 

Also, after all this, plus a few extra pulls of the lever has the handbrake holding much better, so as long as the caliper doesnt catch fire again tonight it's going in for it's test tomorrow, and if it fails going to 24vv6turbo's home for elderly fucked renaults!

 

But whilst I was there, I had a better play with OhNo! I can't remember which was which now, I think this was the engine

 

post-5612-0-38535300-1500469287_thumb.png

 

This was the auto box

 

post-5612-0-42062300-1500469306_thumb.png

 

and this was the headlights

 

post-5612-0-21985000-1500469323_thumb.png

 

I chickened out of trying the airbag module, forgot to take a smudge of the handbrake screen before I cleaned it and it wouldn't connect to the UCH. I think these are historical, so will leave it a day or 2 and re-check!

 

Ace app SIC!

 

 

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A bit late to this... 

 

But i'd recommend not having a sticky piston (oo-err). whilst it may not be the sole cause it ain't going to help any, and next week It'll bind and cost you pads and petrol.

 

Good luck with the test. If you've still not won manual conversion from a scrapper gets my vote. 

 

If you need some wheels for a week or so I've got a spare car at the moment you can have a borrow of if you want.

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Very kind offer Scdan, might have to take you up on that!

 

It is noticable when it binds, it wont pull away at idle in gear as fast, and the mpg drops a bit. If it passes the test, and doesnt shit itself in a few months I'd love to get into caliper rebuilding, infact I kept the old calipers so can practise before doing the ones I need. New ones are £130 on ecp, but that seems a bit steep. If it's the handbrake unit, ECP sell that for a reasonable* £750, which won't happen!

 

I'm more certain it's a dicky handbrake lever now, with the wheel binding earlier, I tapped the lever back and when it popped to the stop bit, no more binding. I have read that the lever gets shitted up, and one has to lever it up a tad and clean it off, but I did try levering it slightly and no movement, I didn't want to fuck it totally so settled for 'that will do' for now.

 

For anyone who has stripped a caliper before, how would I get the main piston out? I can't airline it, dont think I should use waterpump pliers etc... it's been out in the rain for a few weeks too now...

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For anyone who has stripped a caliper before, how would I get the main piston out? I can't airline it, dont think I should use waterpump pliers etc... it's been out in the rain for a few weeks too now...

Could maybe reattach the old caliper to the car and pump the piston out with the brake pedal, I have got stuck pistons out that way before.

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Could maybe reattach the old caliper to the car and pump the piston out with the brake pedal, I have got stuck pistons out that way before.

If I didn't then have to go through the whole caliper reset job again I could, unless I use the Zafira or one of the front brake pipes I suppose... Brake pipe connection should be the same shouldn't it?

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Guest Hooli

That's a shout. Could hook it up to the Zafiras compressor and see how far I can get it to shoot out...

 

I did that with a XR4i rear calliper & an airline in a Volvo dealer I worked at once. The piston cleared two brand new cars in for PDI & hit the far wall....

 

 

ETA: Ford fact fans, it had rear callipers as I'd fitted a XR4x4 axle to get the LSD.

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Guest Hooli

Axle = diff, cross member, hubs, drive shafts etc in this case. What'd you call the complete unit? I've always said axle as most people know what I mean.

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*bows* Happy to be of service!

 

The advisories have an addition though

 

  • Advisory notice item(s)
    Windscreen has damage to an area less than a 10mm circle within zone 'A' (8.3.1a) IGNORE
    Oil leak () I don't think it is actually leaking, but it has done heavily in the past. The cam cover/inlet gasket needs doing, if that ever gets done I'll give everything a clean up. Or not...
    brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened all around (3.5.1i) IGNORE for now, they work fine, I'll batter them through winter first
    Front Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing both (2.7.2a) IGNORE
    Rear Trailing arm rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement both (2.4.G.2) DINGDINGDING I was surprised it didnt pop up before tbh
    Offside Rear lamp slightly cracked IGNORE
    Offside steering gaiter damaged IGNORE
    Offside Rear Direction indicators slightly discoloured (1.4.A.2f) I will replace this, I just wanted to see if it cropped back up, the same bloke tested it today though, they must have a picture of David Dickinson in their MOT toolkit...
     
     
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