stripped fred Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 I will just add that Krujoe was a pleasure to deal with and went out of his way to make the handover as easy as possible. Always good to meet a fellow shiter. I know he wasn't aware of these issues. They can happen to anyone and the price of the car was less than the majority of similar ones on sale so I factored in a few repair jobs. There might be a few swear words tomorrow but they'll be aimed at the car and my mechanical ineptitude rather than the vendor! KruJoe, RobT and Lord Sterling 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Should just need the basic lead like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS-USB-409-1-OBD2-VAG-COM-Cable-OBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-/182332464866?hash=item2a73dc9ee2:g:ZZkAAOSwImRYEyVs Free version of VCDS is enough to scan for codes. http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.php Will work on any windows laptop. Scan codes and report back, no need to start chucking Mr Muscle about if it's something else - sticky turbo is very likely though and Mr Muscle should do the trick.Thanks. I'll get onto that in the morning. Will be useful for any other issues too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I've been doing some research this morning. Found this on pistonheads: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=86&t=809211 I think sic is right that I need to get the codes read. From this thread, other faults could be the maf, boost control valve or the turbo itself. I doubt it's the last one though as there doesn't seem to be any more smoke from the exhaust than you'd expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LessThanEqual Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I've got the exact same problem with my 1.9 TDI, a generic Bluetooth code reader throws codes P0230 and P0243. Cleaned the EGR a couple of weeks ago though this didn't make a difference with limp mode, it did make the car a bit smoother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Just used it to drop the kids off at school. No problems at all driving through town. Like yesterday, it was fine until i hit the motorway, which is probably why Krujoe didn't experience it acting up. I'm going to have a poke around the engine bay later today to see if there's anything obvious. I ordered the cable suggested by Dave_Q so later this week will enter the murky world of vagcom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I've got the exact same problem with my 1.9 TDI, a generic Bluetooth code reader throws codes P0230 and P0243. Cleaned the EGR a couple of weeks ago though this didn't make a difference with limp mode, it did make the car a bit smoother.These codes mean nothing to me so I'm afraid I can't help but hope you get it sorted. And if you do can you tell me what it was! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LessThanEqual Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 These codes mean nothing to me so I'm afraid I can't help but hope you get it sorted. And if you do can you tell me what it was!Most definitely will, though I've been putting up with it since I bought the car over a year ago, though it used to happen every few weeks, now it happens multiple times on a single journey with 7 being the current record. I'd definitely recommend cleaning out the EGR though, as it doesn't take long and they're usually manky. I was scraping chunks out of this with a screwdriver! djimbob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddeliveryboy Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Just used it to drop the kids off at school. No problems at all driving through town. Like yesterday, it was fine until i hit the motorway, which is probably why Krujoe didn't experience it acting up.I'm going to have a poke around the engine bay later today to see if there's anything obvious. I ordered the cable suggested by Dave_Q so later this week will enter the murky world of vagcom.Most likely a vacuum leak or (even more likely) a build up of carbon if it hasn't been driven hard or spent a life on the motorway. Does it go into limp mode if you use all the revs and foot to the floor? If not, it's quite possible that half a dozen full throttle 0-80s would have a beneficial effect, especially with some turbo cleaner additive in the tank. Invariably a limp mode with these engines is triggered with acceleration from medium revs when the turbo can't move fast enough (because sticky with crud) to prevent a boost spike, which is made worse with a gummed up, reduced internal diameter inlet manifold. Computer-read fault codes can be a great, equally they can send someone who hasn't a practical working knowledge of the oily bits and what happens to them on a wild goose chase. I know someone who replaced all the vacuum valves, egr and inlet manifold only to find they'd spent hundreds and the problem returned after a couple of months. The turbo is the expensive bit, the main dealer had put off replacing that till last, by which point the carbon had damaged it. If they'd cleaned it when the manifold and EGR were off, chances it'd have been resurrectable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 That is nasty. I will clean it as it can't do any harm. Whoever though they were a good idea needs a good kicking. djimbob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddeliveryboy Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Yup, EGRs may be good for emissions for the first 30 or 40k miles of a UK driven vehicle's life, but our slow speeds and stop-start roads just gum things up and in turn cause more emissions than a simpler setup. I think some moderns treat their EGR as a consumable item. Blank the thing off if it doesn't cause the ECU to have a sulk. djimbob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I've got the exact same problem with my 1.9 TDI, a generic Bluetooth code reader throws codes P0230 and P0243. Cleaned the EGR a couple of weeks ago though this didn't make a difference with limp mode, it did make the car a bit smoother. P0243 is a boost control code so sooted up turbo is a possibility. P0230 is for fuel pump control circuit malfunction. Really you need the codes read with VAGCOM as it gives more info, sometimes the generic codes can be a bit of a red herring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Codes are not the be-end-all, however they give you a very good point in the right direction. They don't replace properly diagnosing a car, but are one part of diagnosing it. It's going into limp for a reason, and that reason is the code its throwing. stripped fred 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I'm with direct line insurance and I've just arranged 30 days cover on my 406 for £46. This takes the pressure off as gives me some time to try and resolve the problem. I will say that I'm mightily impressed with them. The initial cost to change to the sharan was £4.10! No admin fees. They will also pay me back pro rata on the 406 if I cancel within the 30 days. KruJoe and Craig the Princess 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadgetgricey Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I'm with direct line insurance and I've just arranged 30 days cover on my 406 for £46. This takes the pressure off as gives me some time to try and resolve the problem. I will say that I'm mightily impressed with them. The initial cost to change to the sharan was £4.10! No admin fees. They will also pay me back pro rata on the 406 if I cancel within the 30 days.Sorry to thread hijack, but is that in addition to the Sharan. Did they also mirror the No claims on the 406.Only asking as I'm also with Direct Line and found them to be really good. If they also do temp insurance for a month by mirroring no claims that would be awesome.Got my eye on a Saab on e-bay and this would make things a whole lot easier if possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 The 30 day cover is in addition to the sharan. It's good isn't it. If I cancel in 2 weeks I should get half of it back. It was £25 for a week and £30 for 2 weeks but I decided to go for the maximum 30 days as not much more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadgetgricey Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 The 30 day cover is in addition to the sharan. It's good isn't it. If I cancel in 2 weeks I should get half of it back. It was £25 for a week and £30 for 2 weeks but I decided to go for the maximum 30 days as not much more. Thats awesome. Puchased a Rover 75 the other week and two days cover on a temp policy cost me £31 (and that was the cheapest) That's really useful to know. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Managed to get some time to look at this. First impressions are that the engine seems quite far back. I haven't even found the turbo yet! The egr looks quite difficult to remove. The fuel filter looks a bit old and manky. I've found a hose with a hole in it though (photos 2 & 4). Haven't got a clue what it's for but I might try a temporary repair to see if it makes any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Spot the invisible repair to whatever pipe this is. beko1987, KruJoe and 0ldCh0d 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Does anyone know what this little thing does? Looks like a filter but is open at one end. Something to do with the aircon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaughant Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Get the codes read fella, if i was nearer I'd pop over with my fault code reader (vag specific) but truthfully for £40 odd off eBay it's invaluable, diagnoses everything, the vagcom lead is fine but you can leave this in the car for such occasions. My seat leon suffered something similar and it was water getting into the throttle pedal and confusing the ECU this,no power then limped along.Happened by Cardiff and fixed with an off and on then went completely on the Severn bridge and would only idle.Luckily i knew of the fault so drying it out got me to work then a full clean and dry out of all the electrical connections sorted it right out, in fact the throttle response is now instant, I'm getting 550 minimum to a tank, great engines, will be something very minor I'm sure.I think that pipe is a breather as well. I'm also told the egr valve and boost control valve for the turbo are the same so swapping may give you a clue. Turbo will be towards the top left of the engine as you look at it. If you get fed up with it i maybe interested, auto puts me off a bit as their rep is poor but as it's done 200k they can't be that bad!!! stripped fred 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavcraft Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 My money is still on the N75. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaughant Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 My money is still on the N75.That can be bypassed using a few choice 3.3ohm (from memory) resistors, or a biggish power rated one. Probably work ok disconnected as a quick test but for me it still wants the codes read. stripped fred 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KruJoe Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Your invisible repair is invisible. If that's a canister type diesel filter, it looks bloody prehistoric!I'd get that changed, they're probably only six or seven quid delivered from ebay. stripped fred and Arthur Foxhake 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Right, the taped hose is (I think) an engine breather, could do with replacing but is unlikely to be causing your issue. The small fuel filter looking thing is bit odd, never seen anything like that and the pipe is of the correct size to be a vacuum hose. Your turbo and EGR are controlled by vacuum. I would check/replace all the vacuum hoses, start at the sphere looking thing on the front of the engine, follow that hose it will take you to a valve block with 4/5 other hoses (possibly near the l/h strut top as you look at it), follow and check them. One is for EGR which is the UFO looking valve on the inlet manifold. One is for the turbo which is down the back of the engine. Possibly best accessed from underneath. BTW not sure why you would want to bypass the N75 (boost control solenoid). Check/replace all these hoses, a couple of metres of silicone hose should do it (4mm internal I think). Still reckon your fault is overboosting due to sticky turbo vanes. stripped fred and Arthur Foxhake 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Deffo sounds like sticky vanes to I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddeliveryboy Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Does anyone know what this little thing does? Looks like a filter but is open at one end. Something to do with the aircon? Leave it alone if it isn't connected to one of the hoses in the pic below, otherwise summit else might start giving bother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Get the codes read fella, if i was nearer I'd pop over with my fault code reader (vag specific) but truthfully for £40 odd off eBay it's invaluable, diagnoses everything, the vagcom lead is fine but you can leave this in the car for such occasions. My seat leon suffered something similar and it was water getting into the throttle pedal and confusing the ECU this,no power then limped along.Happened by Cardiff and fixed with an off and on then went completely on the Severn bridge and would only idle.Luckily i knew of the fault so drying it out got me to work then a full clean and dry out of all the electrical connections sorted it right out, in fact the throttle response is now instant, I'm getting 550 minimum to a tank, great engines, will be something very minor I'm sure.I think that pipe is a breather as well. I'm also told the egr valve and boost control valve for the turbo are the same so swapping may give you a clue. Turbo will be towards the top left of the engine as you look at it. If you get fed up with it i maybe interested, auto puts me off a bit as their rep is poor but as it's done 200k they can't be that bad!!!Thanks, some good info there. I'll try the cable out with my laptop first, when it arrives later this week, but I could be tempted by a proper code reader at some point. Is that correct about swapping the egr and boost valve? I thought they looked different but I know nothing. The gearbox seems to work well and seems to suit it. Hopefully it will last a while longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Right, the taped hose is (I think) an engine breather, could do with replacing but is unlikely to be causing your issue. The small fuel filter looking thing is bit odd, never seen anything like that and the pipe is of the correct size to be a vacuum hose. Your turbo and EGR are controlled by vacuum. I would check/replace all the vacuum hoses, start at the sphere looking thing on the front of the engine, follow that hose it will take you to a valve block with 4/5 other hoses (possibly near the l/h strut top as you look at it), follow and check them. One is for EGR which is the UFO looking valve on the inlet manifold. One is for the turbo which is down the back of the engine. Possibly best accessed from underneath. BTW not sure why you would want to bypass the N75 (boost control solenoid). Check/replace all these hoses, a couple of metres of silicone hose should do it (4mm internal I think). Still reckon your fault is overboosting due to sticky turbo vanes.I'll get some vacuum hose ordered and have a look at the weekend. I'm sure they're all originals so won't hurt to change them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Leave it alone if it isn't connected to one of the hoses in the pic below, otherwise summit else might start giving bother. BEWvacuum1.jpgFlippin heck that looks a bit complicated. No wonder modern cars have problems with so many bits to go wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Think the EGR / boost valve swap still applies, they don't look quite the same but they should both be 3 port solenoids. This is the control valve that is a smallish box with 3 vac hoses and an electrical connector, not the physical EGR valve if that makes sense. They look something like this. stripped fred 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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