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Peugeot 106 1.5D *!!Collected!!*


Jim Bell

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Clocks can be removed without removing the steering wheel FYI

 

Definitely dont know this from removing the brake pad wear warning light from one in the past

I couldnt even get the clocks out with the indicator set bolted up, never mind the steering wheel on!

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But tbh, those clocks look a right pigs ear mess. What about soldering wire straight from the two pins on the connector to the bulb itself directly?

Never thought of soldering direct to the bulb holder. Theres nowt to lose like. Cheers.

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I wonder if that track somehow got blown out by a power spike from a dying alternator regulator?

 

 

Plan B - Remove the pin from the stop solenoid and only ever park on a hill so you can bump start it, then stall it when you park up again.  These cars dont really need electricity anyway and stuff like headlights and indicators are for the weak.

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I wonder if that track somehow got blown out by a power spike from a dying alternator regulator?

 

 

Plan B - Remove the pin from the stop solenoid and only ever park on a hill so you can bump start it, then stall it when you park up again.  These cars dont really need electricity anyway and stuff like headlights and indicators are for the weak.

 

That would be mint if I lived on or near a hill and worked at the top of a hill.

 

Unfortunately I currently achieve 0/2.

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What about connecting the bulb directly between the alternator terminal for it and the battery +v terminal. That way, it should verify that the alternator actually works and can charge.

 

I'd be very surprised if the current from a bulb would be sufficient to blow the track like that. Given the thinness of the bulb filaments, I'd expect that to blow as a fuse first.

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What about connecting the bulb directly between the alternator terminal for it and the battery +v terminal. That way, it should verify that the alternator actually works and can charge.

 

I'd be very surprised if the current from a bulb would be sufficient to blow the track like that. Given the thinness of the bulb filaments, I'd expect that to blow as a fuse first.

 

I wish I was capable of this.

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Why bump when you have one of these rechargeable engine starter doo dars?

Just keep it charged over night with your phone.

 

 

Then its basically an electric vehicle! I might get a tax break out of it? 

Charge the battery every night, charge the jump pack trough the day. Dont drive at night, or in the rain.  I bet someone that wasnt me, could get along for YEARS without getting sick of that routine.

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More seriously, if those instrument clusters are unobtanium over there I am pretty sure I could bag one from the scrappy here and post over the circuit board.

 

Ah cheers fella.  There seem to be loads around, but looking at the rears, none in this specific set up.  1996 was of course helpfully a facelift changeover year and mines a mega late ph1.  I'm not sure if similar ones would suffice.

 

 

 

ptsvqPh.jpg

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I'd be thinking of finding something it doesn't have (like front fogs or airbag), and use one of the spare light holes to put the alternator bulb in.

You then need to swap the alternator wire on one of the multiplugs into the right hole for thing_it_doesn't_have as it'll just be a direct connection.

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Whats the bulb on the other blown bulb circuit on that dash on the right?

 

http://www.diagnostic-world.com/pages/peugeot_106_dash_warning_lights_221491.cfm

 

Full beam? Except then it does have a bulb in the one to the left (as you look at the front) of full beam which should be empty according to that page.

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Ah cheers fella.  There seem to be loads around, but looking at the rears, none in this specific set up.  1996 was of course helpfully a facelift changeover year and mines a mega late ph1.  I'm not sure if similar ones would suffice.

 

 

 

ptsvqPh.jpg

 

I will be at the scrapyard either tomorrow or Wednesday. If you want I will have a look for a circuitboard like that one?

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I'd be thinking of finding something it doesn't have (like front fogs or airbag), and use one of the spare light holes to put the alternator bulb in.

You then need to swap the alternator wire on one of the multiplugs into the right hole for thing_it_doesn't_have as it'll just be a direct connection.

I did consider suggesting this. However you'd need to make sure one side is positive to battery (rather than negative) and the other is disconnected for sure. Get it wrong and you could let a whole lot of smoke out.

 

WW doesn't seem overly confident with guiding electrons in the right place, so (no offence intended) it could end up a whole lot worse if wrong.

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I'm pretty certain there's no independent fuse for the charging circuit.  Also, when the alternator failed on the 106D I had (that ended up with Castros_bro), it stopped putting the battery light on when it should after some initial DASHBOARD DISCO LIGHTS and then stopped charging altogether..

I think the fault with your car Wilsonx2 is an alternator failure and the warning light nastiness is a bit of a red herring.  If there was no bulb, it would still charge, albeit not correctly.

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I'm pretty certain there's no independent fuse for the charging circuit. Also, when the alternator failed on the 106D I had (that ended up with Castros_bro), it stopped putting the battery light on when it should after some initial DASHBOARD DISCO LIGHTS and then stopped charging altogether..

I think the fault with your car Wilsonx2 is an alternator failure and the warning light nastiness is a bit of a red herring. If there was no bulb, it would still charge, albeit not correctly.

Cheers fella. Thats great info. I have purchased a new alt and belt from that ebay that they have these days. Currently en route. Might be worth swapping it on then. Could end up with incorrect charging rather then none at all. That would be a few steps in the right direction.

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