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Roffle

Peugeot 106 1.5D *!!Collected!!*

Roffle

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#91 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 10:35 AM

Hold on. You said it has a voltmeter fitted!


It does. And I presume it was fitted precisely because Peugeot didnt fit a battery light as standard. Its also wildly innacurate.

634840.png


#92 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 10:40 AM

Result 1.
20170311_112200.jpg


Result 1.1.
20170311_142859.jpg


The volt meter lies. It dances round all over the place as and when it wishes.

634840.png


#93 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 10:50 AM

Bet the voltmeter is wired up in some retarded way off the the heater fan or summink.


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#94 OFFLINE   stripped fred

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:01 AM

Maybe the voltmeter is buggering up the electrics? Is it worth removing it to see, especially if it's not working properly anyway?
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#95 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:14 AM

SOMETHING is running from a screw driven into each battery terminal. I would hazard a guess that would be the voltmeter.
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634840.png


#96 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:16 AM

Shown below.

Screenshot_20170312-111553.png
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634840.png


#97 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:21 AM

Wait, don't alternators need the battery light for the exciter coils to work properly?

Someone hasn't changed it for an LED, or filament bulb has just blown or something have they?
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#98 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:31 AM

As far as I can see, there isnt a battery light.

Screenshot_20170312-112917.png


Unless the bulbs gone.

634840.png


#99 OFFLINE   dave21478

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:31 AM

It should have a battery light - it forms an important part of the charging circuit. If the bulb is blown/missing then it wont charge.


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#100 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:31 AM

Well thats good info!!!

Cheers man.

634840.png


#101 OFFLINE   dave21478

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:33 AM

Edit - should be just to the left of the handbrake light at the bottom.


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#102 OFFLINE   Dave_Q

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:33 AM

Internet sez it should be just to the left of the handbrake light:

 

1389806.1109.jpg


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#103 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:35 AM

Ok, this is good news. Thanks very much everyone. Clocks out tomorrow and see what happens with a bulb in.
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634840.png


#104 OFFLINE   Dave_Q

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:38 AM

Suggested test plan would be to swap the bulb round with one that definitely works eg oil or boil light. 

 

If it's not the bulb then try to trace the wire from the alternator to the dash.

 

As said, on most alternators if the wire to the dash light isn't connected then no chargy.


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#105 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:44 AM

lol @ if the last owner got rid because on going charge issue that they couldn't resolve was because the bulb was blown.

Iirc modern cars with LEDs in their dash use a resistor in parallel because the LEDs don't pass enough current. So swapping out bulbs in a dash that had filament as standard to LED if you don't know what you're doing will end in tears.

Basically the exciter coils need a small amount of current to get them going. The bulb passes this current when the exciter side of the circuit is lower. As the voltage increases and stabilises between the two, the bulb goes out acting as a resistor between the two.

TL;DR a alternator uses the physical properties of a filament bulb to allow it to start alternating.
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Current Fleet:
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2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)

#106 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:46 AM

Great. Cheers dudes. I am now armed with INFORMATION. Ill have a go at it tmorrow.

634840.png


#107 ONLINE   BorniteIdentity

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:49 AM

Great intel on here.  Every day's a school day.


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#108 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:51 AM

Gawd bless the autoshite hive mind and all contributers that sail in her.
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634840.png


#109 OFFLINE   Richard

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:54 AM

There might even be a fuse blown, I had that happen on a 205 once.

#110 OFFLINE   beko1987

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:55 AM

Amys aunt has those battery terminals on her clio, took me bastard ages to work out how to jump start it!

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#111 OFFLINE   M'coli

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 11:57 AM

It does. And I presume it was fitted precisely because Peugeot didnt fit a battery light as standard. Its also wildly innacurate.

They did fit an alternator light, yours is probably buggered.  When the ex-explosive-cabbage 106 diesel threw its alternator belt, the alternator light pulsed slowly on and off, rather than displaying constantly like it should when the ignition is on but the engine isn't running.


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#112 OFFLINE   Broadsword

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 03:37 PM

I had one of these. 1997 1.5 D 5 door in blue. It was surprisingly ok driving wise, not nearly as slow as expected. Handling was pretty sturdy also. Cannot fault the 106 diesel at all. It was the loudest thing in the world though and the steering was set in concrete. Eventually I bought a Saab instead. Savings in fuel costs were fantastic though.
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#113 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 03:33 PM

Right.  Here we go.

 

UYArtVp.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Lets have a look at these clocks.

 

 

 

 

 

neAlcJj.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have not broken anything thus far.  Onward.

 

 

 

 

 

JoSP6AY.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

O7JGwuS.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hmmmmmmmm.  Right.  These screws are really loose..................

 

Uhd4k7J.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes.  Someone has been in here before.

 

X3KYFIu.jpg


634840.png


#114 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 03:36 PM

Someone has indeed tried to repair* this in the past.

 

0dz4MNY.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

The printed circuit plastic sheet on the back of the clocks has decayed and come away and someone has attempted a crude bridge.

 

 

 

7McUvRS.jpg


634840.png


#115 OFFLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 03:44 PM

Maybe I can create a better bridge, straight to a pin?

 

 

 

Fire up the burn stick!

 

3MimwJP.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Now Im not very good at hot metal.

 

 

uk3ln11.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Not pretty, but maybe THATS fixed it.

 

 

 

 

 

Lets see!

 

 

 

 

 

F2puvBq.jpg

 

 

 

 

Well no.  No it has not fixed it. 

Known good bulb and holder in the battery light slot, still no light illuminated.  No charging occuring on the multimeter.  Bollocks.


634840.png


#116 OFFLINE   AMC Rebel

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 03:47 PM

lol @ if the last owner got rid because on going charge issue that they couldn't resolve was because the bulb was blown.

Iirc modern cars with LEDs in their dash use a resistor in parallel because the LEDs don't pass enough current. So swapping out bulbs in a dash that had filament as standard to LED if you don't know what you're doing will end in tears.

Basically the exciter coils need a small amount of current to get them going. The bulb passes this current when the exciter side of the circuit is lower. As the voltage increases and stabilises between the two, the bulb goes out acting as a resistor between the two.

TL;DR a alternator uses the physical properties of a filament bulb to allow it to start alternating.

 

 

Great intel on here.  Every day's a school day.

 

Indeed - I thought using the warning light in the exciter circuit died out in about 1973.


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#117 OFFLINE   castros_bro

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 03:51 PM

New/old dashboard and penicillin  supplier

 

http://autoshite.com...get-in-the-sea/


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#118 OFFLINE   Dave_Q

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 04:12 PM

Good effortz so far that man, I'd concur that those clocks should be thrown in the sea and replaced as a step 1.


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#119 OFFLINE   KruJoe

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 04:18 PM

Sorry, the clocks in that minging mk2, and the Saxo breaker I have differ substantially from a mk1.



#120 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 04:47 PM

Put the multimeter between one of the bulb pins and ground. Should read 12v. The other pin should have continuity between that pin and the alternator battery pin.

But tbh, those clocks look a right pigs ear mess. What about soldering wire straight from the two pins on the connector to the bulb itself directly?
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Current Fleet:
1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner that is like the family pet.
2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)





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