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Genuine Granadaland Jaguar Reintroduced to Granadaland! Caution: New MoT content!


Junkman

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm sure everyone who's read my Rover thread is familiar with what happens when I attempt a simple 'replace component' job. I decide it'll take an hour, start at 5pm, park the car where it cannot be left if I immobilise it, immobilise it, fuck up the job so hard it causes a stock market crash then finish at 2am a shattered nervous wreck. 

 

post-17021-0-28598300-1493814174_thumb.jpg

 

So when this arrived this morning I was conflicted. Should I take it to a garage and ask them to fit it? It would be the most sensible thing, since I can't even push the car off the drive if both the front wheels are pointing in different directions. 

 

post-17021-0-50888600-1493814175_thumb.jpg

 

But look at that access! Plus, Magnificent Rustbucket had kindly sent me the workshop manual pages which suggested no hilarious surprises. WCPGW? Forget the garage. I'm allowing 12 hours for this and getting stuck right in.

 

post-17021-0-92539000-1493814176_thumb.jpg

 

So I'm sorry for this super boring update, but the old rack came out easily, the new rack went in easily and it seems to work perfectly. It'll need an alignment, of course, but that's to be expected. Took me about two and a half hours in total. 

 

So with that done, I'm going to go and book it in for an MOT.

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What did the airport say?

And what does "International" mean?

That there are flights to and fro South Dakota?

Or even - gulp - Montana?

 

According to Minot's website, they are called International because they have an international customs desk.  They don't have any international flights, though.  Somebody in North Dakota has a pretty cushy job, methinks.

 

 

download-1.jpeg

An airport in North Dakota, yesterday

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I'm sure everyone who's read my Rover thread is familiar with what happens when I attempt a simple 'replace component' job. I decide it'll take an hour, start at 5pm, park the car where it cannot be left if I immobilise it, immobilise it, fuck up the job so hard it causes a stock market crash then finish at 2am a shattered nervous wreck. 

 

attachicon.gifjag-rack1.jpg

 

So when this arrived this morning I was conflicted. Should I take it to a garage and ask them to fit it? It would be the most sensible thing, since I can't even push the car off the drive if both the front wheels are pointing in different directions. 

 

attachicon.gifjag-rack2.jpg

 

But look at that access! Plus, Magnificent Rustbucket had kindly sent me the workshop manual pages which suggested no hilarious surprises. WCPGW? Forget the garage. I'm allowing 12 hours for this and getting stuck right in.

 

attachicon.gifjag-rack3.jpg

 

So I'm sorry for this super boring update, but the old rack came out easily, the new rack went in easily and it seems to work perfectly. It'll need an alignment, of course, but that's to be expected. Took me about two and a half hours in total. 

 

So with that done, I'm going to go and book it in for an MOT.

 

 

I have found my XJ40 to be an easy car to work on. I am glad it went well and the old beast will be back on the road in no time! :D

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The usual pre MOT thing, the rear foglight does not work. Damn foglights hanging under bumpers. They never work. 

 

post-17021-0-00370400-1493918991_thumb.jpg

 

The nearside one works, but I could not for the life of me get the offside one (the only mandatory one) to work. There was voltage at the connectors, and the bulb holder was clean and worked when connected to a battery. But together? Nothing. 

 

Whatever, I've come down with a brutal cold (the fourth this year, what happened to my immune system?) and I'm not in the mood for this. So I've just run wires from the working one to the broken one. 

 

If you include the trip to buy wire and the time spent holding the bulb holder and saying "why? why?" I probably spent longer on this than I did doing the steering rack. 

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It did fail, but unfortunately there's no comedy multi-page failure sheet. It failed on a tiny hole in the sill and a bit of play in the rear wheel bearings. We couldn't find out if they're adjustable or not, but I suspect not. 

 

Advisories: Play in the gearbox mount was also advised because the tester wasn't sure if that was by design or not, and admitted the advisory was good old fashioned arse-covering. 

 

He commented that overall the car is very good. 

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Guest Breadvan72

I would sort of buy this but have two rusty Jags already. OK, one rusty Jag, and one non rusty Jag with potentially rusty Fordy bits. I have promised my wife I will not buy any more vehicles, and these days I aim to keep marital promises.

 

 

Unhelpful posts R Us plc. GLWTS

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Guest Breadvan72

One in one out may work. I aim to sell my SD1 soon.

 

Roffle for that would be about sixty to seventy quid a pop, so not here, probz.

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By glueing a 5p in the hole?

Good result though I know the later xj is meant to have some play in the wheel bearings as mine failed on it at my local place. I took it to a jag specialist to get the work done and they got it passed without any work (honest garage).

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Good result though I know the later xj is meant to have some play in the wheel bearings as mine failed on it at my local place. I took it to a jag specialist to get the work done and they got it passed without any work (honest garage).

hmm... the play is certainly incredibly slight. There's no grinding noises when the wheels are turned, just the tiniest tiniest slither of movement if the wheels are grabbed and moved north/south.

 

It's booked into the garage again on Wednesday, is it worth me challenging this fail?

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This was 1999 X308 XJR I'm not sure if it's the same setup as on yours. The guy who takes my cars in for mot's has negotiated a few passes for me in the past by convincing them various bits of play was meant to be like that.

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Remove split pin, tighten the nut to 140 lb-ft, back off to the nearest hole, insert new split pin, hope for the best.

The end float of the axle/bearing assembly should be .002" preload to .002" float.

I want to see how a MoT inspector measures this.

Everything else would be his personal opinion, which is entirely irrelevant.

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Remove split pin, tighten the nut to 140 lb-ft, back off to the nearest hole, insert new split pin, hope for the best.

The end float of the axle/bearing assembly should be .002" preload to .002" float.

I want to see how a MoT inspector measures this.

Everything else would be his personal opinion, which is entirely irrelevant.

It does not have holes or split pins. There is a nut alone.

 

post-17021-0-82207200-1494029440_thumb.png

 

I am sceptical about it being wheel bearings. There's only a minute touch of play when the wheel is rocked up and down, absolutely zero when rocked left to right, the 'play' in both wheels feels completely identical.

 

I don't have any issue with getting the wheel bearings replaced if they need to be replaced. But I also don't want to spend a couple hundred pounds having them done only to find there wasn't anything wrong with them and the wheels still have this 'play'.

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