Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Some pics in the cold light of day. Flaky wheel Moderate crust Hopefully not a sign of the state of the floors. Turns out the gear linkage issue means it won't go into reverse at all. My garage are testing it anyway, reverse isn't on the MOT, they will just push it out of the bay. Pray for me. The Moog, KruJoe, AMC Rebel and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Just said a few hail Marys BorniteIdentity, Dave_Q, AMC Rebel and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 I bought this 2.4jtd saloon many moons ago for £600. My ex wife still drives it and it's been a cracking car. She takes it for a service every year as i trained her well and it's had minimal problems. She reversed into something so she's getting a replacement boot lid fitted and it has a few scrapes but still drives well and i preferred it to my facelift 2.4 20v tbh. Simpler and just felt nicer to drive. Must be approaching 200k now. Hope yours is just as good. Lacquer Peel and Dave_Q 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Just checked, 177k at the last mot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Hmmm. 4 tyres, a spring, some welding plus minors. Test date 24 February 2017Test Result FailOdometer reading 207,012 milesMOT test number 6903 7553 6013 Reason(s) for failurefront Windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid (8.2.3)offside front Headlamp aim too high (1. nearside front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)offside front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)nearside rear Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)offside rear Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)offside front outer Front constant velocity joint gaiter damaged to the extent that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt etc (2.5.C.1a)offside front upper coil spring fractured (2.4.C.1a)offside front Tyre(s) incorrect because different size tyres are fitted on the same axle. 205 55 16 (4.1.A.1a)offside rear Tyre(s) incorrect because a tyre fitted to a non-steerable driven axle is of a different type of structure from that fitted to another non-steerable driven axle (4.1.A.2d)offside rear inner Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded sill holed rear (2.4.A.3)offside rear outer Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded sill holed rear (2.4.A.3)offside rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded floor to sill (5.2.6)Advisory notice item(s)offside rear brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (3.5.1i)offside front abs wires insecure chaffingno reverse gear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Bo11ox Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Hmm, a set of tyres, coil spring, CV boot, and some welding, admittedly that could get expensive, can you do the welding yourself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 I do have a welder but am not particularly proficient with it. Maybe its time to learn? I will get the garage to quote me for the welding if I strip the interior etc, maybe it won't be too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacquer Peel Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 What's with the failure for a tyre of a different structure? Cross ply? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 What's with the failure for a tyre of a different structure? Cross ply? I think maybe it's a mistake and it's the wrong size rather than wrong construction. Can get a spring and a CV boot off ebay for £25 or so. Garage say it probably needs a full outer sill and a patch to the floor - about £150 if I strip out the interior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripped fred Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Quite a bit of work then. Tough call. Does it feel like a good car generally, does it drive well? Also, will it need a timing belt soon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Yes it drives well, power doesn't seem to come in until 2000rpm though so there may be some sort of vacuum or turbo issue. Otherwise clutch and engine seem fine, no idea on cambelt, not looked at the history yet. Not too fussed on the cambelt, it's about 60 quid for the bits, I did my wife's 147 (8v jtd) this is exactly the same, just with less skin on your knuckles. I think I might just dive in and see how I get on with the welding, if anyone localish with a clue on sparkly glue wants to come and laugh/supervise that would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 What size/gauge of metal do I need? Is it 0.8mm zintec sheet that's the weapon of choice? What about welding wire, 0.6mm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Both of the above are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpi_matrix Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Got a picture of said rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Got a picture of said rust. Not yet, I'll see if the garage will quickly show me when I go to pick it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Just picked it up, no time for rust pics. The tyres thing is that both nearside tyres are 195/55/16 whereas both offside tyres are 205/55/16. No crossplies. Lacquer Peel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Oof, was it pulling to one side? I think you can match tyre sizes across an 'axle' but have different front to rear? (cheap fix?!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Oof, was it pulling to one side? I think you can match tyre sizes across an 'axle' but have different front to rear? (cheap fix?!). No it wasn't pulling, it seemed to drive fine on the motorway.There was a noise that I thought might be a wheel bearing though, that was probably diff wind up!I will get it in the garage and have a look at the welding, if I can DIY the welding | will chuck a set of new boots on.All 4 are below the minimum anyway. I've had multiecuscan on it just now, no major issues.The glow plug code was the only one that came back. Just been digging through the history, it had a cambelt in 2011 at 160k miles, so not due for a couple of years yet. Springer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Good luck doing the spring - last Alfa (147 iirc) spring I did had to be nearly coil bound to get the shock nut off and broke my spring compressors and damn near took my head off 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flat4alfa Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Just put a pair of struts on it. The main issue is getting the bottom undone after galvanic Corrosion has taken a nice hold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 I'm not too concerned about the spring, the broken one should come off pretty easily I would have thought. Its the welding I'm not sure on, although the first step will actually be to sort out the gear linkage so I can get reverse to get it into the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Bundy Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Go to a local sheetmetal works and ask to buy some off cuts,i use 1.2,personally i think 0.8 is too light especially if your not a welder Joey spud 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HillmanImp Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Go to a local sheetmetal works and ask to buy some off cuts,i use 1.2,personally i think 0.8 is too light especially if your not a welder Most metal on a car is 0.6 isn't it (or possibly even thinner on some modern stuff)? If I'm doing chassis work I might use 1.0. If I was making a tank I might use 1.2. Its never the metal you are grafting in that's a problem, its the stuff you are attaching it too that will blow anyhow of its a bit shit. Although I made up my welding skills as I went along so could be completely wrong on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Hmmm. 4 tyres, a spring, some welding plus minors. Is it actually worth doing? There's the gear change and the running fault to sort as well. No shame in thinking 'bollocks to it' and chucking it back on Ebay. trigger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Is it actually worth doing? There's the gear change and the running fault to sort as well. No shame in thinking 'bollocks to it' and chucking it back on Ebay. Financially speaking, probably not. I reckon it will end up being about £4-500 all in, you could get one for £500 but find it had all the same issues. The gear linkage is a minor, had the same on my wife's 147 when we got it, just needs some plastic bushes and a clean up. The Reverend Bluejeans and DeeJay 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Most metal on a car is 0.6 isn't it (or possibly even thinner on some modern stuff)? If I'm doing chassis work I might use 1.0. If I was making a tank I might use 1.2. Its never the metal you are grafting in that's a problem, its the stuff you are attaching it too that will blow anyhow of its a bit shit. Although I made up my welding skills as I went along so could be completely wrong on this. ^^this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel Tidybeard Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Just picked it up, no time for rust pics. The tyres thing is that both nearside tyres are 195/55/16 whereas both offside tyres are 205/55/16 thats easy enuff then- 205 front 195 rear for grip* or 195 front 205 rear for stance yo!many high* quality germans have different sizes front to rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 All 4 tyres are also below the tread limit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Angle grinder to cut new tread & black paint to hide the canvas. Dave_Q, Lacquer Peel and The Moog 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Q Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 There's someone in Bradford on eBay selling a set of 147 wheels with "legal m8" tyres for 20quid. To be honest I don't really mind buying new tyres as long as everything else can be sorted quite easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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