If you go into a bend at 75 you get yards of howling understeer and then lift off oversteer.
Don't do that in an MGF. It did that flobbery wibbling thing at the front they do as well to warn you how close you're getting to the limit.
GR9* for chasing Radicals down the A50.
I too prefer the Moulton spheres, away from the track they allow more speed for more of the time, and turn the cars into superb massive miles munchers.
'Fs are incredibly tyre sensitive as well. Not the sort of car you want a mixture of crap Nexens and Nankangs on - especially if they differ in profile on the rear where the drive comes from. I mean, really?
Alloys usually go porous because of Longbridge's cute insistence on using a high plasticine content in their construction.
'F headlights are dreadful; the substrate inside goes off and Cibie no longer make them.
Make sure the hood's in good nick; when folded down the window should have been zipped out to stop stress tears. Lots of people don't do this.
Sometimes HGF* can be the temperature sensor giving duff information. Or the heater return pipe having a poo. Or the inlet manifold gasket.
Don't be swayed by brake upgrades. The last thing an F/TF needs is uprated brakes and /or altered brake balance. There was never anything wrong with the Metro derived four pot caliper stoppers unless you're doing a lot of track work - and 'Fs are crap on a track anyway because they're set up to understeer.
Spheres can be pumped up again but Dunlop aren't making any more or repairing the tooling. That's why lots of people are converting to TF subframes.
Driving position is weird but there are lowering kits. Immobilisers are utterly terrible but EKA (emergency key access) procedures normally get round this.
If you want a drive and go road toy, an 'F's what you want. If you want to do a mixture of road and track work, a TF might be better because the suspension is more easily tuned and adjusted.