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SAAB - With reduced noise!


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314 replies to this topic

#211 OFFLINE   beko1987

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Posted 19 August 2017 - 07:31 PM

Beautiful! The door shuts make the difference!
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#212 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 19 August 2017 - 07:33 PM

They really do, especially on moderns that have a lot more door outside the seal.


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#213 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 19 August 2017 - 08:08 PM

I wonder if the PAS system has had work in the past, given all the broken fixtures and fittings on it. I honestly can't remember if it had or not now.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#214 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 19 August 2017 - 08:20 PM

Maybe, maybe not. The mounts under the front where you cable-tied it are like tiny exhaust mounts & when they get old the metal ends fall off the rubber block. Round the back it's a brittle plastic clip on the inner wing, could have been knocked if it's ever had a waterpump (it's in the right place to be in the way).



#215 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 08:12 PM

I took this down to visit my parents last weekend. Got over 34mpg from the last tank, with about 400miles of that being motorwayish with the cruise set to 70mph. Total for the tank was almost 550miles.

 

Only one issue, it went a bit mental on the way home surging & clunking & generally being a twat with the EML on for 30secs or so at the top of a hill. I'm assuming this was low fuel pressure as I had 12miles showing on the range at the time & as soon as it got level it behaved again.

 

Note to self - if the petrol light comes on just before exiting the A14 on to the A1, it's probably not a good idea to drive to Doncaster before filling up...


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#216 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 08:18 PM

Ouch. Can't imagine it did the fuel pump much good. Fuel acts as a lubricant and coolant for it. Pretty certain it's original with 210k odd miles on it! So not in its freshest part of its life. :?

If you have intermittent cutting out or other wierdity, it may be dieing. Not sure if it's external or in-tank. I suspect in-tank.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#217 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 08:53 PM

It's the only time it's ever done it, I figure with that range left it's less than 1/2 a gallon in the tank & a long uphill could make it suck air. I'll worry if it becomes regular.

 

Oh btw, it ticked over 218k on the way back too.



#218 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 08:59 PM

Not bad for it considering the box isn't in the best of shapes. It is a useful data point though that if you own a car with a banging AW55 box, you can still get a fair bit more life out of them. I suspect if it bangs often it's likely to shorten it's life, but if motorway running then it can live a lot longer.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#219 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:03 PM

As I've still not got around to sorting the water leak on this I picked up some snake oil for a stupidly low price today. Votes on if it'll work???

 

Snake Oil.jpg



#220 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:12 PM

Brave putting that in a system with a water cooled turbo!
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#221 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:17 PM

Won't work as it'll be a seal in the pump not a hole is my bet

#222 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:23 PM

Brave putting that in a system with a water cooled turbo!

 

I didn't know it was, I really should learn what I own one day...

 

I keep thinking it's the pump too, but the leak has got about 75% better by ignoring it over the summer & I can't believe a water pump seal would do that.

 

In other news, I've been using sport mode lately. The fun factor goes up almost as quick as the fuel consumption!



#223 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:25 PM

Maybe coolant is leaking out, gumming up and creating a new seal
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#224 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:32 PM

Maybe coolant is leaking out, gumming up and creating a new seal

 

TBH, that is my theory.

 

I was planning to sort the water leak, the oil leak and the gearbox once I'd moved before summer was over. But due to the efforts of my ex to force me to stay here it's not happened yet. So at less than £2 I figured it was worth a try to bodge it through until I can do it properly.



#225 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:48 PM

You don't want to kill the car though! It was a very expensive cheap car. ;)

Can't even remember how much you paid in the end. I know it wasn't a lot, even with its faults!
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#226 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:52 PM

I'll give you a clue, the £1.80 snake oil represents 1% of the cost of the car....

 

You're right, I don't want to kill it. Hence the idea that if less water falls out I will actually keep it full of anti-freeze for the winter. Unlike the goona that was used in -7c (I think was the worst) with just tap water in, I was quite surprised with the lack of expensive noises that morning.


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#227 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:57 PM

Don't forget the Saab is a lot more complex than your Laguna was though. Far more pipes, valves, fluid paths and moving bits.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#228 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 14 September 2017 - 08:59 PM

And most importantly, the Saab is a car. The goona was a bad joke that looked like a car from a distance in the dark. Hence I tried this to keep anti-freeze in. Basicly, I like this Saab and hated the goona.


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#229 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 10:53 AM

News!

 

The snake oil has only worked, it's no longer loosing water.

 

However the heater still goes cold after 30-40mins driving even though all the pipe work stays hot & the ACC shows no errors when a test is run.

 

Bloody cars...



#230 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 03:01 PM

As mentioned on another thread this is due an MOT on the 25th Oct, I might well take it in next tuesday as I'm doing a stupid shift at work for out of hours stuff. 1:30-9:30am when I normally work 8am-4pm...

 

I've given it a quick check over and can't see anything obvious, but then I didn't expect to as it just seems to keep working. As it's no longer leaking I've drained the cooling system, flushed it again and put anti-freeze in. I know it won't cure the heater, but I'm ignoring that currently until I work out what the issue might be.

 

I also checked the plugs, they are good, new looking & clean. They are the wrong ones according to the book though, it lists NGK BCPR6ES-11 and its got NGK BCPR7ES-11 in. To my limited knowledge that just means a slightly wrong heat range, I think with NGK the higher the number the lower the heat. They can stay in though, as it runs fine.

 

Oh & I thought I'd broke when I put it back together and started it to bleed the coolant though. It had a hell of an air leak as soon as it started, which took a few goes to trace as it was near the throttle body & there are loads of pipes there. Turned out to be a cable tie had snapped that was holding a broken one way valve on a breather together. SiC might remember it, the black n white one at the back of the head, I've 'glued' it with a bit of silicon and replaced the cable tie, all fixed.



#231 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 03:49 PM

Nearly forgot. I found a small breather type hose had fallen off the throttle body too, I'm not sure what it does but it goes to a small unit on the bulkhead that also connects to the wastegate? halfway along the intake pipe, I assume wastegate or similar as it links to the turbot.

 

That's now reattached with a jubilee clip so it doesn't fall off again.



#232 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 03:57 PM

I did a lot of checking of those plugs and they should be correct. Came from a Saab dealer and in cute Saab OEM boxes.

I think they changed the recommendation on them to those.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#233 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 04:02 PM

I did wonder about if they'd changed. Knowing they'd changed the gearbox oil n stuff a few times I'm not surprised you've said that.

 

Like I said, it runs fine, they are clean so all is good.



#234 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 04:04 PM

Nearly forgot. I found a small breather type hose had fallen off the throttle body too, I'm not sure what it does but it goes to a small unit on the bulkhead that also connects to the wastegate? halfway along the intake pipe, I assume wastegate or similar as it links to the turbot.

 

That's now reattached with a jubilee clip so it doesn't fall off again.

 

Thinking about it, this might be EGR.



#235 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 03 October 2017 - 02:46 PM

Right MOT was due on the 25th Oct but due to working a few stupid shifts this week I took the chance to do it early. It failed yesterday on a track rod end.

 

£16 part fitted this morning & £25 of tracking done on the way back from the retest, which it passed of course. Can't complain at £40 to get another 13months of motoring from this quality of shed. It really is turning out to be the best value car I've ever had.


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#236 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 01:29 PM

I've just spent an hour under the dash of this car & finally found a reason for the heating going cold. It's the classic Saab blend flap issue where the plastic cracks so although the motor turns it doesn't adjust the heating. Looking at how it fits together, as the plastic warms up it'll allow it to bend & slip on the motor's shaft which makes sense with how the problem occurs.

 

I've bodgerated it by putting a drop of araldite in the broken shaft to glue it to the motor. Testing shall commence tomorrow when I take it to work as normal while my bike is still broke.

 

 

Oh & here's the crack...

 

20171008_131316.jpg



#237 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 04:57 PM

OEM:
https://rover.ebay.c...tm/152180833465

Metal replacement:
https://rover.ebay.c...tm/282651353629

Quite expensive for what they are though. I probably would have glued it too. Plastic glue may be better as it fuses the plastic back together again.

Did you recalibrate it afterwards?
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#238 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 10:11 PM

Without getting it out there was no way of clamping it 'closed' to stick it together properly, so plastic glue wouldn't have worked without as much work as replacing it.

 

I've not even switched the ignition on yet, I checked I could feel it slip as it calibrated before gluing it & because I could I made sure it didn't move until the glue was dry. It should be long dry now, but I'll calibrate it when I start it in the morning to go to work.



#239 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 07:15 PM

Well that didn't work...

 

It stays warmer for longer but if I go slowly after 30-40mins it gets cold, it does work again when doing 65+ now though.

 

I've investigated & the heater hoses go cold when the problem occurs, I thought they did before but I was never 100% about it. It's not the normal fault with these as this car doesn't have the heater cut off valve some got built with. I'm figuring waterpump area. If not the actual pump as the engine time is ok, then a blocked outlet or rubber hose around that area massively reducing flow to the matrix when hot.



#240 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 07:20 PM

Possibly the pump as we know its already suspect! Not sure I'd have put that snake oil in. Might have completely blocked a part of the system?

Or maybe the replacement thermostat that was fitted isn't working properly? I assume the temp gauge is sensible?
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.




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