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Roffle

SAAB - WBOD PRICE DROP £295 or £5 a ticket, 12 Months MOT - WEDS DRAW! SOLD OUT!

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#31 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 12:19 AM

Would these do it? First thing I found, as it quickly turns to HID kits

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...b4AAOSwFnFWBAjM


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#32 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 12:25 AM

Found these suggested on a SAAB forum too http://www.autobulbs...Brown-Base.html


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#33 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 12:28 AM

A guide complete with fuzzy picthurs!

 

http://www.twinsaabs...cc.asp?nsteps=1

 

They look right, I think I'll order a few. Normal bulbs I think, bet the LEDs are brighter as everyone seems to like stupidly bright things these days.


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#34 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 12:37 AM

Ahh genuine, 7 bulbs for £12. http://www.ebay.co.u...S-/110996657323

 

Not ordered as shop shut till 3rd Feb. I'll order them then.


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#35 OFFLINE   Jerzy Woking

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 08:51 AM

Ahh genuine, 7 bulbs for £12. http://www.ebay.co.u...S-/110996657323
 
Not ordered as shop shut till 3rd Feb. I'll order them then.


I bought those for the SID on my 9-5. A week later the right side was dim again. Not to worry, I'll put another in, only to find I hadn't tightened it properly, as it bounced out and dropped out of sight.

Having a fully lit dash is vastly underrated!
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2005 Saab 9-5 with 300 bhp thanks to Noobtune, Abbott and Maptun.
1999 Mingebag Mercedes, given up on it, so SOLD

1994 Citroen AX Dimension, my winter bike. SOLD.


#36 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 08:57 AM

I only need three, so seven allows for stupidity.

 

I lost a couple of dash bulbs the same way when I had a Jag. They just disappear when they're dropped don't they.


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#37 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 10:18 AM

Stat ordered, it's cheaper to get delivered off ebay than to buy from a shop, daft. Plus no shops with them in stock are open today so I can't do it till next weekend anyway.


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#38 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 11:10 AM

Here is the back of the HVAC controls. I was starting to make a post about changing the bulbs but didn't get to finish it!
IMG_20170107_171914.jpg

The easiest way to remove the controls is to use a plastic trim removal tool (or flat screwdriver if very careful) and pop out the 4 switch blanks below the controls. Two of them have the heating switch control wiring behind them, which can be unclipped from the switch blanks. Once the blanks are out you can get your fingers behind the panel and pop out the panel. It's just held in by friction fit.

When you've reinstalled the panel, you'll need to start engine before it becomes fully operable. When the engine is running, it'll spend 30 seconds or so recalibrating the flap positions.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#39 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 05:27 PM

Ta. I've read the handbook today so I saw the bit about calibrating the ACC controls. There is a way to force it to do that too, just hold a couple of buttons while turning it on or something.

 

I think I've found the reason for the oily smell, it's showing a bit overfull currently so might have blown some out the cap as it's wet around there. I'll see how to goes, but I'm not worried about it.

 

Oh the 'stat, it's on the back of the head isn't it? I've not looked very hard for that yet but saw something about the right shape. Talking of cooling, at least I know this countries weather will never bother it, the book says from the factory they are ok down to -50c!

 

Been doing nothing useful today, removed the tax disc holder & all those parking permits of the screen. Been looking at the official workshop manual on ebay, but not splashed £10 on it yet.


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#40 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:02 PM

I'll dig out a link for the workshop manual. Don't pay for it!

I quite like the old tax disc holder in the front, very retro*. :D



* I reckon in 10yrs from now, they'll become a fashion item - probably on veedub'd cars. :P
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
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#41 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:03 PM

Don't worry, I kept it! I've stuck it in the handbook folder. It's part of it's history right? :)


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#42 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:11 PM

Here ya go:
https://onedrive.liv...F1801C8927F05E3

WIS = workshop information system (manuals)
EPC = electronic part catalogue
TIS2000 = program to go with Tech 2 (dealer diagnostics tool) that allows you to reflash control units, add new keys, etc.
Tech2Win = older version of above.
*.Bins = images for Tech 2 PCMCIA flash card. Version 44 supports 9000/900 Saabs. Newer versions dropped support.
TronicTuning.com = open source and free tool to DIY remap your car. Possible over CAN/K-Line/BDM
BDM = port on the Engine ECU to reprogram the flash memory. Allows you to revive a bricked ECU.

Finally NoobTune on uksaabs can do a remap for this (£90 iirc) that will bring it from 185bhp to 220bhp. Either post your ECU to him, or post yours and a second hand, or copy yours (using TronicTuning tools) onto a second hand and send that. That way you can change from stock to remapped just by swapping the ECU. Engine ECU lives in the scuttle panel under the wipers.
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#43 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:13 PM

There is a very lively DIY community around the 9-5 and remapping + extracting power. Plenty of help about if you want to learn how to DIY remap it.

To make it an Aero, swap the LPT to the TD05 turbo (reasonably cheap on eBay) and reflash the ECU with an aero map. You then have 250bhp. Aero also had sodium filled valves, but that's really only going to help when >250bhp and/or continued high speed running.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#44 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:20 PM

Brilliant thanks, got that all downloading now.

 

I'm happy with the power, it's a rocket ship compared to the goona! Besides I'm not convinced the gearbox would appreciate having extra grunt shoved through it currently.


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#45 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:24 PM

Yeah it's why I never fiddled with it. Saying that, at least it'd go out with a bang!

Gearbox on this is the same as the Aero. ECU commands the transmission ECU to limit torque in 1st and 2nd to stop it blowing up.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#46 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:30 PM

Yeah I've seen a lot of tuning stuff around for them, not really interested though. Like I said yesterday, I've got bikes for going fast.

 

Oh, I put the AC fuse back in when I got home. No alarms going off yet :) Found 1p in the drivers foot well too, a useful discount at this price :D


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#47 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:42 PM

If it does go off, locking the car with the key disables the alarm. I disabled the interior sensors with the Tech 2, which should solve the problem. The alarm is only the door sensors. The capacitors and batteries in the alarm siren are also known to go bad and set it off. Same problem as Volvos from the same era.

Siren lives in the front left wheelarch, so wheel off job. I've disabled the fault warning messagd in the SID if you do remove the siren.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
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#48 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 07:08 PM

Cool, I can now forget that if you hold the night mode button for two secs with the key in it disables the interior & tilt sensors next time it's armed.

 

Depending on the wiring, I'd probably just unplug it & tape the ends up.


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#49 OFFLINE   Jerzy Woking

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 08:26 PM

Mine had the alarm disconnected a month before I purchased it as it kept going off for no reason.

Mine is putting out 300+bhp, thanks to a Noobtune Stage 3 remap, and the stomp from 40mph is great for motorbike quick overtakes. Also has Maptun calipers and discs to stop it and uprated suspension to allow it to corner (everything done before I bought it).

Vastly underrated (and thus cheap) cars with excellent performance.
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#50 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 09:08 PM

 

 

Been doing nothing useful today, removed the tax disc holder & all those parking permits of the screen. Been looking at the official workshop manual on ebay, but not splashed £10 on it yet.

 

 

Yes you were born

 

Born.

 

Born to be alive!


MASTER RACE MOTORS.

 

1989 F  730i. Prestigious.

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2008 Golf GTI 3dr 6spd #VAGWANKER

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Money talks, but it don't sing and dance and it don't walk. And long as I can have you here with me, I'd much rather be, the Reverend Bluejeans, babe

 

 


#51 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 07:20 PM

Driving home tonight & the temp dropped to zero on the gauge followed by the EML coming on. I was meant to be changing the thermostat tonight anyway, but even after the parcel twat ringing me & arrange where to put it he didn't leave it!

 

I don't have a code reader, so until I read the manual who knows how to clear the codes? I've got a bluetooth ODBII thingy, but no software on my phone to go with it.


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#52 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:13 PM

Oh noes! Torque is free on android and should read the codes.
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#53 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:15 PM

If you want to save the coolant when doing the stat, there is a little tap at the bottom of the radiator on the nearside.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#54 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:17 PM

If drops to zero it makes me wonder if the coolant sensor might be on the blink?

Codes should hopefully tell all.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#55 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:29 PM

Oh noes! Torque is free on android and should read the codes.

 

Do you know which one is best? I've just searched for torque & there is torque lite, torquescan & torque free.

 

I don't think the sensor is duff, the timings of it dropping & rising make sense. Plus I loose the heating as the gauge drops which follows if it's correct. I will check the wire to it etc when I do the stat though.


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#56 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:30 PM

Oh sorry. I meant Piston.

Piston pretty much does everything Torque does but free.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#57 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:31 PM

https://play.google....workbits.piston
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#58 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:33 PM

Thanks. Installing now & I'll try it after eating.

 

Oh sorry. I meant Piston.

Piston pretty much does everything Torque does but free.

 

 

This annoyed me & then getting home to find the 'stat missing (see the grumpy thread) has made it a bloody annoying day


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#59 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:37 PM

And now I can't find the code reader, bloody sure I took it out of the goona...

 

>screams<


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#60 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 09:35 PM

Was this the correct version of the reader? http://www.ebay.co.u...sd=162312931706

 

I remember you saying something about something about the older version being better when we discussed them for goonas.


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