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SAAB - WBOD PRICE DROP £295 or £5 a ticket, 12 Months MOT - WEDS DRAW! SOLD OUT!


Guest Hooli

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Ahh genuine, 7 bulbs for £12. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REPLACEMENT-BULBS-FOR-SAAB-9-3-93-amp-9-5-95-SID-amp-ACC-DISPLAY-UNITS-/110996657323

 

Not ordered as shop shut till 3rd Feb. I'll order them then.

I bought those for the SID on my 9-5. A week later the right side was dim again. Not to worry, I'll put another in, only to find I hadn't tightened it properly, as it bounced out and dropped out of sight.

 

Having a fully lit dash is vastly underrated!

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Stat ordered, it's cheaper to get delivered off ebay than to buy from a shop, daft. Plus no shops with them in stock are open today so I can't do it till next weekend anyway.

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Here is the back of the HVAC controls. I was starting to make a post about changing the bulbs but didn't get to finish it!

post-20071-0-62896500-1485687876_thumb.jpg

 

The easiest way to remove the controls is to use a plastic trim removal tool (or flat screwdriver if very careful) and pop out the 4 switch blanks below the controls. Two of them have the heating switch control wiring behind them, which can be unclipped from the switch blanks. Once the blanks are out you can get your fingers behind the panel and pop out the panel. It's just held in by friction fit.

 

When you've reinstalled the panel, you'll need to start engine before it becomes fully operable. When the engine is running, it'll spend 30 seconds or so recalibrating the flap positions.

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Ta. I've read the handbook today so I saw the bit about calibrating the ACC controls. There is a way to force it to do that too, just hold a couple of buttons while turning it on or something.

 

I think I've found the reason for the oily smell, it's showing a bit overfull currently so might have blown some out the cap as it's wet around there. I'll see how to goes, but I'm not worried about it.

 

Oh the 'stat, it's on the back of the head isn't it? I've not looked very hard for that yet but saw something about the right shape. Talking of cooling, at least I know this countries weather will never bother it, the book says from the factory they are ok down to -50c!

 

Been doing nothing useful today, removed the tax disc holder & all those parking permits of the screen. Been looking at the official workshop manual on ebay, but not splashed £10 on it yet.

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Here ya go:

https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!ADbVzzlLl9qnhls&id=8F1801C8927F05E3!79487&cid=8F1801C8927F05E3

 

WIS = workshop information system (manuals)

EPC = electronic part catalogue

TIS2000 = program to go with Tech 2 (dealer diagnostics tool) that allows you to reflash control units, add new keys, etc.

Tech2Win = older version of above.

*.Bins = images for Tech 2 PCMCIA flash card. Version 44 supports 9000/900 Saabs. Newer versions dropped support.

TronicTuning.com = open source and free tool to DIY remap your car. Possible over CAN/K-Line/BDM

BDM = port on the Engine ECU to reprogram the flash memory. Allows you to revive a bricked ECU.

 

Finally NoobTune on uksaabs can do a remap for this (£90 iirc) that will bring it from 185bhp to 220bhp. Either post your ECU to him, or post yours and a second hand, or copy yours (using TronicTuning tools) onto a second hand and send that. That way you can change from stock to remapped just by swapping the ECU. Engine ECU lives in the scuttle panel under the wipers.

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There is a very lively DIY community around the 9-5 and remapping + extracting power. Plenty of help about if you want to learn how to DIY remap it.

 

To make it an Aero, swap the LPT to the TD05 turbo (reasonably cheap on eBay) and reflash the ECU with an aero map. You then have 250bhp. Aero also had sodium filled valves, but that's really only going to help when >250bhp and/or continued high speed running.

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Brilliant thanks, got that all downloading now.

 

I'm happy with the power, it's a rocket ship compared to the goona! Besides I'm not convinced the gearbox would appreciate having extra grunt shoved through it currently.

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Yeah I've seen a lot of tuning stuff around for them, not really interested though. Like I said yesterday, I've got bikes for going fast.

 

Oh, I put the AC fuse back in when I got home. No alarms going off yet :) Found 1p in the drivers foot well too, a useful discount at this price :D

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If it does go off, locking the car with the key disables the alarm. I disabled the interior sensors with the Tech 2, which should solve the problem. The alarm is only the door sensors. The capacitors and batteries in the alarm siren are also known to go bad and set it off. Same problem as Volvos from the same era.

 

Siren lives in the front left wheelarch, so wheel off job. I've disabled the fault warning messagd in the SID if you do remove the siren.

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Cool, I can now forget that if you hold the night mode button for two secs with the key in it disables the interior & tilt sensors next time it's armed.

 

Depending on the wiring, I'd probably just unplug it & tape the ends up.

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Mine had the alarm disconnected a month before I purchased it as it kept going off for no reason.

 

Mine is putting out 300+bhp, thanks to a Noobtune Stage 3 remap, and the stomp from 40mph is great for motorbike quick overtakes. Also has Maptun calipers and discs to stop it and uprated suspension to allow it to corner (everything done before I bought it).

 

Vastly underrated (and thus cheap) cars with excellent performance.

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Driving home tonight & the temp dropped to zero on the gauge followed by the EML coming on. I was meant to be changing the thermostat tonight anyway, but even after the parcel twat ringing me & arrange where to put it he didn't leave it!

 

I don't have a code reader, so until I read the manual who knows how to clear the codes? I've got a bluetooth ODBII thingy, but no software on my phone to go with it.

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Oh noes! Torque is free on android and should read the codes.

 

Do you know which one is best? I've just searched for torque & there is torque lite, torquescan & torque free.

 

I don't think the sensor is duff, the timings of it dropping & rising make sense. Plus I loose the heating as the gauge drops which follows if it's correct. I will check the wire to it etc when I do the stat though.

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Thanks. Installing now & I'll try it after eating.

 

Oh sorry. I meant Piston.

Piston pretty much does everything Torque does but free.

 

 

This annoyed me & then getting home to find the 'stat missing (see the grumpy thread) has made it a bloody annoying day

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