purplebargeken Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Can't be HGF, it's not a K series....... Eddie Honda, rml2345 and beko1987 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purplebargeken Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 I actually read Simtec as Semtex. I actually really did. I need to get out more. Or maybe not. GrumpiusMaximus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 I guess the camshaft sensor could cause limp mode, without that it's guessing off the crank sensor for when to fire injectors/plugs etc. It won't know when the cylinders are on the firing stroke compared to the intake/exhaust stroke, loads of older cars & bikes are designed like this & used wasted spark etc but I suspect more modern stuff does it more accurately to get slightly better MPGs & OMGemissions. beko1987 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 I reckon so, then the turning on and off again 'fixed it'. The slight mayo in the coolant could be anything, not too worried about that now, because tbh if that's the worst it does it can bloody well stay with hgf until it goes properly. Nothing came up on the dipstick which is always the first thing I read when Ken was describing his current hgf woes. Sounds similar to the occasional limp mode I get in the gooner when the whatever sensor it is doesn't get the right reading. Always fine after a restart. Might also explain my occasional blip of no power in 4th buT I'm ignoring that, I can afford to in a £150 laguna 2, the cheapest Zafira B is £1k on auto trader for a cat c 200k 1.6... Can't afford to not investigate a bit purplebargeken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Could be a shitty wire that got hot enough to flex & let a crack open, dirty contact, dirty sensor or anything really. beko1987 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 You can sometimes get a bit more life out of duff cam/crank sensors by whipping them off, cleaning them and putting them back on. Not always and more for crank than cam. If it’s oily as fuck when it comes out your camshaft oil seals are banjaxed. beko1987 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 You can sometimes get a bit more life out of duff cam/crank sensors by whipping them off, cleaning them and putting them back on. Not always and more for crank than cam. If it’s oily as fuck when it comes out your camshaft oil seals are banjaxed.That's my number one plan. Have it off and clean it. Also, the internet says the camshaft and exhaust cam sensor are the same part, so I might swap them round and if the code comes back, see if it's changed number on the code. Amy's back from the chip run, says she's ragged the shit out of it and nothing came up. Will waft the app over it again in a bit and confirm, but it seems it's not the OMG she phoned me about this morning Tickman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 I cleaned up the Megane crank sensor 2 years ago and it never failed to start first time for the rest of the time I owned it. Kiltox and beko1987 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Gave me a bit more time to fix my Trafic crank sensor doing that. It did shit itself again after a couple of months. beko1987 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbenn Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 That's my number one plan. Have it off....Again? Might want to focus on fixing the car first mate. oldcars, Twiggy, beko1987 and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 He's not called shagger for nothing. The Moog, beko1987, Eddie Honda and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 So, the car has decided to have an issue. I've been ignoring the probably broken wires on the rear door, and today it didn't unlock whilst Amy was at the hospital. Luckily I am off work today, so I could go and fetch Charlie. Back home now, and the vauxhall forums are ranging from a pile of shit to idiots, so I'm asking on here! I've got the door card off, but cannot open either of the passenger doors. Have had the battery on and off, and read to connect 12v to the door lock wires which does something. Fuck it, game for anything but nowhere does it say what wire to probe. Anyone any ideas? These are the wires. I can get the diagrams for the big connector plug for the door, but that's no help. I think it needs a circuit throughout the whole central locking mech and it's not getting it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 On my 75 the actuator broke and as there is no lock to put a key in the door would not open. It is that sort of issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 Dunno, don't think so, as we've been having the symptoms of broken wiring for a while now. The rear drivers door opens with the key, as does the drivers door but not the boot, or the passenger side. I need at least the front passenger door to open to get at the broken loom to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 As you say is does point to that if its one side. Mate had an Audi A4 and the wiring had chaffed in the rubber gator from the car body to the door. Wonder it that is the cause? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 That's what happens apparently. It's been mentioned on here before but I've just forgotten to do it! HOWEVER, FINALLY, on page 437 of a thread, someone said to remove the SPEAKER, and therei s the multiplug, which I can pull back in, then very bastard fiddly bodge the wires together enough to get the door open, then fix it properly! Amy's gone out in the gooner to collect Eva, so will have a look when she's back. Have that feeling about the job that it's going to be an ARSE! oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Hang on, you're using a goona2 as a backup to a vauxhall? that's is the essence of autoshite! Cavcraft, purplebargeken, Talbot and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red5 Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Door looms will be shot. Don't probe anything at all unless you are sure it's not CAN wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red5 Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Iirc you can get a decent repair kit for £35 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 It's frustrating! Performing keyhole surgery via the speaker hole. 3 wires are fully snapped, 3 are breaking up but still connected. I've joined up the 3 broken wires temporarily, made sure nothing is touching, and nothing. The indicators flash so the module is getting some signal, but the deadlocks are not releasing. The drivers side front and back are open (the back door randomly opened...) but the passenger side and boot have nothing. Currently having a fag and writing this with all 4 big plugs removed in the boot fusebox (via the back seats) which apparently drains and resets something, but I'm not hopeful... Plan C is to drive to town and call the AA, but what can they do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Absolutely nothing I’d wager. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Jemmy a door to get you in? doesn't solve the issue though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red5 Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Nothing. If the REC disconnect/reconnect (the 'fuse box' in the back) doesn't allow doors to cycle to unlock then repair/replace the looms. Carefully. With no probing unless you know exactly what you are doing. Does it have Multifunction ? Front fogs? Cheers,Sam beko1987 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 The drivers door opens, as it can be unlocked with the key. The rear drivers door is also unlocked which is bloody frustrating as all the other doors are deadlocked. I stepped it up a bit earlier, ripping bits of trim out I found where the door loom to the dodgy door dives out of the car... So I cut the rubber gaitor off (will worry about that later and had the whole loom inside the car! Properly cut the wires down and crimped them together and...... NOTHING, just the indicator flash but no motor noise... It's sat now with the battery off, which shall remain off for the next hour, in the last gasp hope of resetting the central locking module which I presume has shit itself with the shorting wires. If this does not sort it, I shall be driving it to work tomorrow so Amy can have the laguna which has 4 YES 4 bastard working doors (although only 2 working windows but we'll ignore that) What bloody planet do we live on where a quality* german motorcar is less reliable than a £150 Renault Laguna 2? If all of this does not work, I am right out of ideas... Anyone local to myself in Thame have an Opcom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 Nothing. If the REC disconnect/reconnect (the 'fuse box' in the back) doesn't allow doors to cycle to unlock then repair/replace the looms. Carefully. With no probing unless you know exactly what you are doing. Does it have Multifunction ? Front fogs? Cheers,Sam Yes, multifunction with a dodgy CIM module... All I have done so far is connect the broken wires back up with the battery off and unplugged and replugged some multiblocks in, and checked both 10a central locking fuses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 I wonder if a good auto locksmith (legal car thief ) could get the doors open with minimal damage - should be easy then surely? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Just raffle it, lots of idiots* on here who'd queue up to buy tickets for a car they can't get into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 When the door actuator went on the 75 I had to remove the doorcard and use the linkage in the door to get it open. Could you get the door card off then do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Just raffle it, lots of idiots* on here who'd queue up to buy tickets for a car they don’t want to get into.True dat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavcraft Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Plan C is to drive to town and call the AA, but what can they do? Deliver it to my house after you sell it for £30? beko1987 and The Moog 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now