beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 When the door actuator went on the 75 I had to remove the doorcard and use the linkage in the door to get it open. Could you get the door card off then do that?No I've tried that, the deadlock is on, so I hear the mechanism moving, but no one is at home. Obv the bolts to remove said lock are only accessible with the door open! oldcars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 Just raffle it, lots of idiots* on here who'd queue up to buy tickets for a car they can't get into.Lovely single seat motor car, utterly fucking loads of boot space if you don't mind only being able to get to it by folding the middle seats... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Get the doors unlocked by whatever means and never lock them again... The Moog and red5 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 If all of this does not work, I am right out of ideas... Anyone local to myself in Thame have an Opcom? Passing Bristol any time soon? You can borrow my Tech2. Edit: I'm in Newbury this weekend, so won't be a million miles away from you. However if the wires are broken to the module, there isn't too much a Tech2 can do if it can't talk to the lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red5 Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Remove inner door panels - fiddly but do-able. Repair wiring loom(s). Win. Tech2 or anything else can't talk to the door control units if they're not connected. It's very common on Astra H and Zafira B. Unsurprisingly as they're the same stuff in a different frock. Do both rear doors 1st. Usually them. SiC, beko1987 and Kiltox 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 red5 knows his fucking Vauxhalls probably even more so than Cavcraft (yeah I know) if you’re in any doubt beko1987 and Cavcraft 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 Remove inner door panels - fiddly but do-able. Repair wiring loom(s). Win. Tech2 or anything else can't talk to the door control units if they're not connected. It's very common on Astra H and Zafira B. Unsurprisingly as they're the same stuff in a different frock. Do both rear doors 1st. Usually them.I've almost certainly deffo done the rear passenger side now, the rear drivers side has never exhibited any odd behaviour so was leaving that alone for now. What would I have upset in the central locking mechanism to make it not actuate the deadlocks? The indicators flash when I use the fob and the button on the dash but there's no noise or unlocky stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Iirc you can get a decent repair kit for £35 or so.The people that do the repair kits (qed) keep listing them on the website but just refund you when you order one . Proper vaux kit is 100 quid . Did an astra one last week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red5 Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 The people that do the repair kits (qed) keep listing them on the website but just refund you when you order one . Proper vaux kit is 100 quid .Did an astra one last week Yeah - I just tried. Last one I did I used Vx kit as well. O/s has far less use (usually) on a family wagon. N/s/r door is usually first to go. twosmoke300, Kiltox and beko1987 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 The people that do the repair kits (qed) keep listing them on the website but just refund you when you order one . Proper vaux kit is 100 quid . Did an astra one last weekThat's a shame as that's exactly what I will go for if the central locking starts working! Although now I've dragged the loom out into the car I can affect a proper repair by cutting the loom back nice and far nd soldering in new wire (probably all of the same colour...) 3 minutes and the battery goes back on. I'm not confident Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 Nope, nothing. The little LED within the interior lock button is lighting up red though, then goes out. The indicators go with the keys for a few goes too, after about 5 lock/unlocks it stops doing anything. Might pop both the live and neutral off for the night just incase, but something somewhere is not happy. Time for more googling in a bit. It's got to be something simple, the actual wires are, as far as I can see connected perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 I have asked on my local Vauxhall club's Facebook page, they're a good bunch and a fair few have Zafiras. I shall report back if anyone has any ideas. beko1987 and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 OK, some progress. In a thread, buried in a thread AND WRITTEN ALL IN CAPITALS a chap says to find a white 25a fuse... Mmmm, been told to find a red 10a fuse before, not a white 25s. So back out there and what do you know, there is a white 25a fuse, and it has indeed blown up! So a 30a (because I don't have a 25a) is procured from the stash in the Gooner, and fitted. Nothing... Off and on again with the battery and THE SWEET SWEET SOUND OF DOOR LOCK MOTORS actuating in their happy joy! All of them actuate! Door check:Front drivers - CheckRear drivers - CheckBoot - CheckRear passenger - NOPEFront passenger - Check. The motor is moving in the still not working door. I can hear it, I can feel it clunking it's merry tune, but the handle doesnt work, neither does the cable inside. I'm now wondering if there is still a broken cable, but not a blatent one, more of an internally broken one. I'll still take it to work tomorrow, and raid my stepdads garage for all the little reels of wire I stole out of my old Puma before I scrapped it, and tomorrow night, sit down and chop the whole loom right back. New wire EVERYWHERE, crimped for now, then if that works get busy with the soldering iron and heatshrink (or buy a repair loom if I can find one...) The plot thickens, but I CBA now, got to drive the ruddy thing to work tomorrow because I don't quite trust it to not lock Amy out or the children in tomorrow. Tickman 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 I have asked on my local Vauxhall club's Facebook page, they're a good bunch and a fair few have Zafiras. I shall report back if anyone has any ideas.Very kind, thanks. I asked on the Zafira B Owners Club earlier this afternoon about an hour before posting on here and they've been 900% less helpful than everyone on here has! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 Yeah - I just tried. Last one I did I used Vx kit as well. O/s has far less use (usually) on a family wagon. N/s/r door is usually first to go.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-ZAFIRA-B-REAR-DOOR-WIRING-LOOM-REPAIR-KIT-FITS-EITHER-LH-OR-RH-INC-BOOT/372210812615?fits=Model%3AZafira+B&epid=1971993462&hash=item56a97e46c7:g:bAgAAOSwWEZaczTg How bastard much? And that's the cheap pattern one! The wires coming out of the plug on mine are fine (I think), I shall chop crimp and check, then if it works get busy with the heatshrink and soldering iron! Need to glue the rubber cover back over it all too, had to slice it in half just to get to the broken wires before I realised the whole loom just pulled through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 3 have suggested in the space of a minute, a broken wire between the door and the pillar? Is that what you have already checked? beko1987 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 13, 2018 Author Share Posted June 13, 2018 3 have suggested in the space of a minute, a broken wire between the door and the pillar?There would be a possibility, if I hadn't pulled the loom back to the main run, however... It works! Went out just now to stick the fridge I borrowed for shitefest in the boot to take back tomorrow, and without thinking re deadlocked it. Shit, unlocked it again incase it goes funny, and hear a different clink... It bloody opens! I'm such a fool! I'd just been locking and unlocking it. So it is fixed. Granted the door loom is now coming out of the door when it's opened, but I'll tidy that up tomorrow and let new wire in to replace the snapped ones! Celebratory Cup of coffee I think! Still driving it to work tomorrow though, half the interior is missing and scattered everywhere now... Floatylight, Tickman, Split_Pin and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Split_Pin Posted June 13, 2018 Share Posted June 13, 2018 Well deserved too, fixed! beko1987 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taxi paul Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 You sir are a genius. I would have threw it in a skip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 sometimes the connectors get a bit grotty and dont supply the full power to the motor so it just clonks , a parting and rejoining of the connector can fix this , a lot of the wires in the connector can be unused as well as they can be for electric windows that are not fitted , rip them out and just repair the used wires , it makes the loom a lot more flexible beko1987 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcars Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Leg end. Fix my rear lights on the 75 please, i have tried for 15 months and can't. beko1987 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Beko is now a chod bothering god! beko1987 and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 Beko is now a chod bothering god!I wouldn't say that, there was a lot of hoping involved! My plan tonight is to chop All teh wires back on both sides and just solder all new wires in just to be sure. Don't care if the colours don't match, if I'm feeling kind to my future self I may write the colours down and stick the post it note to the inside of the door, but maybe not. Then cover the wires in grease, wrap them in tape, feed the loom back through then glue the rubber cover back on and put the car back together. Drove it into work this morning, backache after 30 minutes! Went well though, but the gear change is really hard and notchy. It's always been like that though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Same seats as an astra H? Stupidly uncomfortable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 Same seats as an astra H? Stupidly uncomfortable.Probably! I even adjusted them a bit (I don't usually as she moans, but since I had to roll the drivers seat right back yesterday to climb over it to get to boot I thought I may as well have a play.) red5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanciamatt Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 Hi mate, I work for vauxhall, this sound like you have have a broken wire in the wiring between the B post and the door. If you open front door you can get in and release the wiring plug from the rear door, pull the rubber back and you will see the wires snapped or exposed and touching. oldcars and beko1987 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 Hi mate, I work for vauxhall, this sound like you have have a broken wire in the wiring between the B post and the door. If you open front door you can get in and release the wiring plug from the rear door, pull the rubber back and you will see the wires snapped or exposed and touching.Yep, 4 were fully snapped. About to go into town for heat shrink as I've run out and it's all getting nailed back together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 This got fixed yesterday, handily* I suddenly felt like shit Thursday lunchtime and threw up several times at work so got to go home... So did it yesterday morning. This was my 'get it working' repair Some suitable wire was procured And I chopped nearly all the wires back to inside the car bar the thick brown one and the speaker cables. I spent an hour performing my best soldering And my best heatshrinking And before long had the loom rebuilt. Some old cable from a dyson dc25 spinal cord was used for the thick red and brown lead as I figured 240v wire would happily take the full 12v feed, the thinner wires are signal wires I think for various systems I then wrapped the loom in tape And fed it back through the car into the door, and taped the rubber cover back on. No idea how long it'll last, should be a fair while but now I know to just pull the whole loom back through the car if it goes again, doing it again shouldn't be the end of the world. Its got to be as good as the official repair part which is just a new plug and lots of wires that need crimping onto the car loom! I then took the chance to fix the door card, the glue has failed that sticks the card to the mounting top plate So I affected a seamless repair Job done! I had a vacuum out to clear up the mountain of stripped wire ends and such from the footwell, so spent an hour shovelling the thing out, and re set up the radio from when the speaker on that door was unplugged a year ago when this issue first started and caused the headunit to stop working! Job jobbed (for now), I can have my Laguna back. Should probably get hold of a 25a fuse to replace the 30a one used for the central locking, although I can't imagine 5a making much difference... One day! Just need to tighten the live battery terminal back down as I couldn't find my socket set yesterday, it seems happy enough just sat on the battery terminal though, the little cover keeps it pushed down MikeR, Supernaut, Cavcraft and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 That seamless repair is a thing of beauty! beko1987 and oldcars 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 Fully invisible! Amy hasn't noticed it yet anyway... NorthernMonkey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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