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After three years... 216SLi - 25/2 - behaving itself


Ghosty

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I'm rather late to the party Ghosty. Good choice, well bought.

 

 

This^

 

It hasn't been touched since Vulg was at it. You're welcome to any, some, or all of it, FOC. It's at BD23, and can be seen in the background here:

 

attachicon.gifWP_20160506_11_20_48_Pro.jpg

 

I have better pics somewhere, or seek them out in Angyl's 414 thread.

 

 

What a superb picture!

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I cant recall ever going out to a failed head gasket on one of these engines in 15 plus years of roadside spannering.

 

But stats stuck closed i"ve seen a fair few.

Usually the rad stays cold if the stat has stuck shut.

At the roadside the dodge is to just cut the two legs off it and pull the centre out then you can refit the outter collar/sealing ring.

Suprised the aa guy didn't give that a go to save the cost of a truck and a hit on his fix rate.

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Old Man echoes your sentiments, feels like AA bloke couldn't be arsed.

It's not happy, still overheating, but took longer to do so, and CHECK ENGINE came on again. Steam is still coming out albeit only intermittently. I'm going to message 3VOM and see if he can do a compression test, meanwhile I'm going to check the radiator.

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Don't know much about these engines but i had the same type of issue with the Reliant. It was silt in the back of the block causing a coolant block. There was a bolt i took off to drain the coolant and i cleaned all the silt out. Stopped overheating after that. Is there anything like that on these?

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I wish I knew - but having found silicone in the thermostat I have to wonder. Could be worth checking again.

A Northern Powerhouse spannering session may be in order as working around Old Man's job isn't easy or efficient and he is refusing to do anything, only instruct me.

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Try draining the system out, remove the radiator and back flush it with a hosepipe. Then do the same with the engine block. Just fire the water through everywhere you can in the opposite flow direction to what the coolant normally circulates.

If there's any silt or crud in it, it should start to dislodge it and wash it out.

 

Also, don't forget to set the heater to hot when your trying to bleed air out. If you don't you run the risk of getting an air lock in the heater matrix.

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I wish I knew - but having found silicone in the thermostat I have to wonder. Could be worth checking again.

A Northern Powerhouse spannering session may be in order as working around Old Man's job isn't easy or efficient and he is refusing to do anything, only instruct me.

I had all forms of stuff in mine. I would try a flush of the cooling system. I think mind had had years of botches with gasket sealer stuff.

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Rad is clear.
Old Man now says it's probably HGF'd but the jury is out.
It boiled off about half its coolant in 3-4 miles. Steam from both ends.
Old Man is being very difficult to work with, and his tools are a bit crap, all his ratchets are half knackered, and most of his spanners and sockets are sodding imperial. The garage is tiny, and I only have half an idea of what I'm doing. Old Man just stands around explaining things badly, and leaving me standing clueless for an age every the phone rings.

I can't be arsed with him, I just want to fix the bloody thing and get driving.
Anyone fancy coming over one day this week and having a proper look/diagnose? I'm available through to Saturday, except Thursday afternoon where I'm picking up my work uniform.

Is flushing the block as simple as taking the hoses off the rad and putting the hosepipe down one, then seeing what comes out the other?? I can do that later if so, need a break first.

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Makes sense when you put it that way. I don't know, I'll have to look at the pump when I find out how to get the cambelt cover off - and see if it needs a belt too.

When the coolant/water is still cold, you should be able to see by looking in the rad or header tank, if the water is circulating/pump working, as the liquid will be moving about a bit.

If not, then I would be pulling the belt off to the pump and turning the pump by hand.

It can't be seized, or it would have thrown the belt off. Is it leaking from here?

 

I haven't read your whole thread btw.

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The car drives so the belt hasn't been thrown off. I've mentioned already, the seller claimed it's had a water pump done at some point, but I don't know when, or the quality of the job.

 

I don't have enough coolant to run the car, will water do?

 

It's just occurred to me all that steam yesterday might be something to do with the AA man filling the car with water...

 

Hadn't considered quality of pump. 

There's a pump lying around in my garage off a 1.4 D series Civic, the problem is I don't know the age of it (could be from any time back to 2000), or if it even fits (maybe).

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Water will be just fine for testing purposes.

 

A lot of new parts you get now are complete toilet so it's entirely possible that the new pump has failed. Provided the spare is turning freely and holding water it'll be perfectly OK to use, possibly even better than a cheap new one.

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If it fits of course. Do some cross referencing on a parts site to see if they are the same.

 

It does - I need a gasket though.

 

I remember checking the pump now, I did it a different way, done it a couple of times in fact. During the collection caper there was no flow at all, yesterday there was more flow, but not quite enough. 

The problem is I was on starting duty while it was being checked so I didn't know what was going on.

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It took me a month to diagnose the 25's cooling problems, so hang in there. I've not driven R8's but early r3's are a joy to drive. Enjoy! Also it's taken me 5 years to tool up and I still don't have then all, authough a large halfords socket set is a good start.

 

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

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Dont worry about the cambelt, One job at a time.

I would think the water pump is OK, but if it's been changed maybe the fault was there then.

I have tools, a compression tester and a little know how.

Compression test is not conclusive however as bad valves could cause the same reading.

Stalybridge is it? I could come if it helps, check comp, flush the rad, check the flow etc. 

Don't want to tread on the old mans toes though I'm probably much older than him.

pm  me your address if you want me to come. Can do tomorrow (Wed) or Thurs morning.

Dont take the water pump off if its still on.

Would leave system empty overnight in case it freezes. or throw something over the bonnet.

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2016-06-30%2013.58.16_zpsgjyjjxnp.jpg

 

20170117_153303_zpsbt831xtw.jpg

 

I have got the same engine and auto box fitted to my wifes old CRX and when i first got it it had been standing about and when it started getting some use the coolant was being pressurised and getting blown out of the rad overflow pipe on long runs which then led to low coolant and hot running.

 

20170117_153315_zpsazomecm2.jpg

 

I tracked my problem down to a clogged up cold start / idle speed control valve (metal dome shaped thing below throttle flap) and its pipes which sit under the throttle body and draw coolant off the inlet manifold.

The pipes to it were luke warm at best but after removing and cleaning the valve and pipes it all got nice and hot and sorted the poor circulation/pressurising problems.

 

It may be worth cutting the middle out of the original stat and refitting it then trying again to see how it goes that way you are less likely to have to chase out trapped air caused by the stat taking an age to open.

 

I guess being negative the car is 20 plus years old and the head gasket may just be degraded thru age and needs replacing which is a pleasant enough job.

 

If i wasn't down in Kent i would gladly pop around and have a look.

 

P.S the orange cam cover is not my doing honest..

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