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Stupid question amnesty


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15349 replies to this topic

#15271 OFFLINE   MorrisItalSLX

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 11:58 AM

G'day,

I have been having some troubles with the headlights on the Jag.

When you turn on the high beams, occasional all the lights will cut out. Other times the high beams will turn on and all the lights will cut out out after a few minutes and with a flick of the high beam switch the low beams come on again, but no high beams. The indicator stalk is very loose and floppy.

Anyone have any ideas of what could be at fault?

Cheers.


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#15272 OFFLINE   scdan4

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 12:18 PM

What is this bit that I've destroyed called? Is it a bottom ball joint? Clutch. Change going well so far...

Attached Images

  • 1502540160513256911605.jpg


#15273 OFFLINE   scdan4

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 12:43 PM

And the other side is properly stuck. Any tips anyone?



Eta. Hit it harder. It's off. Fucked, but off

#15274 OFFLINE   bub2006

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 12:45 PM

Add a live feed to the clutch and see if it's working

Ill give it a whirl. Can only see one connector there too.

#15275 ONLINE   Hooli

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 02:12 PM

G'day,

I have been having some troubles with the headlights on the Jag.

When you turn on the high beams, occasional all the lights will cut out. Other times the high beams will turn on and all the lights will cut out out after a few minutes and with a flick of the high beam switch the low beams come on again, but no high beams. The indicator stalk is very loose and floppy.

Anyone have any ideas of what could be at fault?

Cheers.

 

I'd guess at a knackered stalk then. If it's flopping about too much then the switch contacts in the end might be missing each other.



#15276 OFFLINE   DSdriver

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 04:14 PM

Lights don't make a car more visible though, not unless the conditions are dull or dark enough to be able to argue that dipped headlights should be on.

Someone ran in to one of my Volvos once a long time ago in plain daylight. They told me "Sorry, I didn't see you". My reply was that my car was about fifteen feet long, six feet wide and weighed over a ton, it also has a light in each corner. What do you mean you didn't see it?


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But I just love the fact that they exist."

#15277 OFFLINE   bunglebus

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 05:38 PM

What is this bit that I've destroyed called? Is it a bottom ball joint? Clutch. Change going well so far...

 

Yes, bottom ball joint. They can be a swine, there are various methods to remove them using proper tools, sometime heat helps, and sometimes CAREFULLY tapping a big screwdriver in the slot in the hub (probably at the back) to widen it slightly can help. Also pressure downwards on the suspension arm while hitting the hub (again, carefully) can release their evil hold. If you can get a lever above the thread to push down on it, or better yet access with a hammer (maybe using an extension bar on it) you may also get it to move. Unscrew the nut until it's level with the top of the thread before trying either of those methods though.


Plain spotter


#15278 OFFLINE   twosmoke300

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 05:45 PM

Hate to say it but you will need a ( inexpensive) tool to change that ball joint .
The best way to separate a taper ball joint is to loosen the nut so it's finger tight but leave it on the threads to protect it , then belt the knuckle at 90 degrees to the ball joint . What you are trying to do is momentarily deform the tapered seat so it releases the joint . I assume from the damage to the threads you were hitting it on its end ? That's never going to end well .

The fork type splitters are a waste of time too as they always fuck the boot which is an mot failure anyway .
  • The Moog and bunglebus like this

Skoda Octavia 1.9tdi - the boring modern 

Fiat Ducato 2009 l3h2

Honda Crf250X

Suzuki TS50x

Kawasaki Ke175d

Prilla Pigsasshole 650

Saxo 1.5D

Land Rover 90 2.5 petrol

Honda CB250N super wet dream

 

 

 


#15279 ONLINE   FakeConcern

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:06 PM

My daughter's Pug 207 looses coolant fairly slowly. Nearly every time the she comes to my house, I check the oil, water, tyres etc and the coolant is usually low in the header tank. I can never see any dripping liquid when the car is hot or cold and neither has she. The bottom of the header tank feels dry. The car is petrol and the oil level does not go up or look gungy.

How can I find out where it's going?

Should I chuck in some Radweld?



#15280 ONLINE   Hooli

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:10 PM

Someone ran in to one of my Volvos once a long time ago in plain daylight. They told me "Sorry, I didn't see you". My reply was that my car was about fifteen feet long, six feet wide and weighed over a ton, it also has a light in each corner. What do you mean you didn't see it?

 

I once had someone drive into the back of a BRIGHT orange Discovery that also had a 2" lift, roof lights & lots of other stuff, that was also in bright daylight. I asked them if they hadn't see it as well.

 

It made me laugh tbh, a bit of mud fell off my towbar but they needed a bonnet, grill, wings, lights, bumper, radiator & engine judging by the way they drove off with steam pissing out. I reported it to the plod as failure to stop, so hopefully it cost them even more.


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#15281 OFFLINE   RayMK

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:18 PM

My daughter's Pug 207 looses coolant fairly slowly. Nearly every time the she comes to my house, I check the oil, water, tyres etc and the coolant is usually low in the header tank. I can never see any dripping liquid when the car is hot or cold and neither has she. The bottom of the header tank feels dry. The car is petrol and the oil level does not go up or look gungy.

How can I find out where it's going?

Should I chuck in some Radweld?

 

Check the hoses to see if any are 'sweating.'  If so, Radweld will seal them for a while but sweating hoses means they are way past their best and could fail suddenly.  Also, if the coolant in the header looks a bit muddy i.e. nothing like normal, off the shelf coolant, then oil may be slowly getting in to it - this will also cause the hoses to sweat, soften and fail.  Check the radiator fins.  A slight leak from a stone impact may only show as a stain because when cold the coolant will evaporate rather than drip, more so when hot. If you can see the water pump, look for staining there as well.


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#15282 OFFLINE   twosmoke300

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:28 PM

I'd go for water pump

Skoda Octavia 1.9tdi - the boring modern 

Fiat Ducato 2009 l3h2

Honda Crf250X

Suzuki TS50x

Kawasaki Ke175d

Prilla Pigsasshole 650

Saxo 1.5D

Land Rover 90 2.5 petrol

Honda CB250N super wet dream

 

 

 


#15283 OFFLINE   AlabamaShrimp

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:29 PM

If this snaps will the back suspension collapse?

20170802_153047.jpg

Or is it something just to stop sideways movement?
Hey moustache!

#15284 ONLINE   FakeConcern

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:36 PM

Check the hoses to see if any are 'sweating.'  If so, Radweld will seal them for a while but sweating hoses means they are way past their best and could fail suddenly.  Also, if the coolant in the header looks a bit muddy i.e. nothing like normal, off the shelf coolant, then oil may be slowly getting in to it - this will also cause the hoses to sweat, soften and fail.  Check the radiator fins.  A slight leak from a stone impact may only show as a stain because when cold the coolant will evaporate rather than drip, more so when hot. If you can see the water pump, look for staining there as well.

All the hoses & rad look dry, when I've had water pumps fail then either I've seen coolant dripping from the pulley or they've rattled, neither the case here. The coolant is still bright pink. I do hope it isn't the pump, not sure how much of a job it is on this engine as it has a timing chain.

Thanks for the response RayMK & Twosmoke300.



#15285 OFFLINE   twosmoke300

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:39 PM

Pink is th wrong coolant for that car - someone has been playing before
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Skoda Octavia 1.9tdi - the boring modern 

Fiat Ducato 2009 l3h2

Honda Crf250X

Suzuki TS50x

Kawasaki Ke175d

Prilla Pigsasshole 650

Saxo 1.5D

Land Rover 90 2.5 petrol

Honda CB250N super wet dream

 

 

 


#15286 ONLINE   FakeConcern

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:55 PM

Pink is th wrong coolant for that car - someone has been playing before

Well a google image search shows most have pink



#15287 OFFLINE   panhard65

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 07:32 PM

If this snaps will the back suspension collapse?

attachicon.gif20170802_153047.jpg

Or is it something just to stop sideways movement?

 

Bloody hell mk1 Fiesta rear shocks I can't remember the last time I fitted one of those. If it snaps the axle won't collapse and you probably wouldn't notice, best to replace them though if you can.

About the 207 coolant it should be pink due to the age of car.


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'68 Peugeot 204 diesel estate

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#15288 OFFLINE   AlabamaShrimp

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 07:37 PM

^^thanks, I'll get saving!
Hey moustache!

#15289 OFFLINE   scdan4

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 07:51 PM

Yes, bottom ball joint. They can be a swine, there are various methods to remove them using proper tools, sometime heat helps, and sometimes CAREFULLY tapping a big screwdriver in the slot in the hub (probably at the back) to widen it slightly can help. Also pressure downwards on the suspension arm while hitting the hub (again, carefully) can release their evil hold. If you can get a lever above the thread to push down on it, or better yet access with a hammer (maybe using an extension bar on it) you may also get it to move. Unscrew the nut until it's level with the top of the thread before trying either of those methods though.

  

Hate to say it but you will need a ( inexpensive) tool to change that ball joint .
The best way to separate a taper ball joint is to loosen the nut so it's finger tight but leave it on the threads to protect it , then belt the knuckle at 90 degrees to the ball joint . What you are trying to do is momentarily deform the tapered seat so it releases the joint . I assume from the damage to the threads you were hitting it on its end ? That's never going to end well .
The fork type splitters are a waste of time too as they always fuck the boot which is an mot failure anyway .


Quite pleased with myself that I did work through all that list pretty well by myself. Wasn't making a complete hash of it...

Was a fork type splitter, yes. Boot got duly fucked, yes. Then temper was lost, and, ah well. Ball joint socket ordered to fit the new ones.

They were easy compared to the rh driveshaft. It was seized in the mount, and the mounts dowels onto the engine had corroded hard, so the driveshaft wouldn't slide through the mount and the mount wouldn't budge either.

Happy days. Gearbox is off,I'll go back to it later.

Thanks, as ever, for the help.
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#15290 OFFLINE   somewhatfoolish

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 09:01 PM

Painless balljoint removal;

 

1. Remove nut.

2. declag thread with a die or die nut.

3. refit nut loosely and go for a short drive over the nearest available potholes, checking frequently to see when it pops.

4. remove balljoint.

5. tea and medals.


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#15291 OFFLINE   Asimo

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 10:53 PM

Bloody hell mk1 Fiesta rear shocks I can't remember the last time I fitted one of those. If it snaps the axle won't collapse and you probably wouldn't notice, best to replace them though if you can.


That bracket on the shock absorber is there to stop the rear axle turning with braking force. So no handbrake turns until you have new shockers!
**Crude, but a clever bit of design to save every penny of parts cost and every second of assembly time.
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#15292 OFFLINE   Timewaster

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 11:26 PM

Today I saw 2 police cars both Focus Estates one 15 reg and the other 65 reg and neither had any lights at all showing, as in no DRLs. I thought they became law in 2011 or 2012, so how could this be?


I have a (company) Focus Estate 14 reg and it doesn't have DLRs.
Just normal side, dip and main.

Only the high end models had DRL.

See: Triggers daily. Both plod and I have poverty spec Foci.
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#15293 OFFLINE   AlabamaShrimp

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 11:40 PM

That bracket on the shock absorber is there to stop the rear axle turning with braking force. So no handbrake turns until you have new shockers!
**Crude, but a clever bit of design to save every penny of parts cost and every second of assembly time.

LOL handbrake turns with the power of 957cc!!

Tbh I'm banned after I got told off for doing them outside the new national stadium in Malta some years ago in a totally knackered Starlet hire car :-)
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Hey moustache!

#15294 ONLINE   Hooli

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Posted 13 August 2017 - 08:30 AM

You'd get on with my dad, he got bollocked by university staff for doing donuts on their drive in a Carlton. He was about 55 at the time & dropping my sister off.


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#15295 ONLINE   AMC Rebel

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 12:24 PM

I have a (company) Focus Estate 14 reg and it doesn't have DLRs.
Just normal side, dip and main.

Only the high end models had DRL.

See: Triggers daily. Both plod and I have poverty spec Foci.

I looked this up - the EU directive applies to stuff with a new type approval after 7 February 2011, so models that haven't needed a type approval won't require DRLs.


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#15296 OFFLINE   kinkersaab

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 03:23 PM

^ I see a few of you mentoning you drive new model focus, Do you, like me, manage to turn the lights on with your knee everytime you get out of the fucking things? I have lost count of the amount of times i have had a flat battery on them due to it. The rubberised rotary switch makes it grip ones knees.....   Perhaps you need long legs...


My car cost less than your one loses every month..... Who's the knob?

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#15297 OFFLINE   Timewaster

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 03:30 PM

Not often, but it has happened.
I'm not exactly lanky at 5'10
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Des wrote:
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#15298 ONLINE   AMC Rebel

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 03:31 PM

Anyone had any joy stopping/reducing the black smoke from their dizzlers?

 

The Disco 3 hasn't had a lot of use recently, so I took it for a 300+ mile trip at the weekend - in spite of me trying to give it an Italian tune up all the way, it's smoking like Alex Higgins up hills or when accelerating at lower revs.

 

The Crying Pumpkin has also be quite smoky - I don't normally boot it as there's no point since the auto trans seems to swallow up any go so you just end up using more fuel, making more noise and not speeding up much.

 

Are any of these fuel additives any good? 


1994 Range Rover Classic "The Crying Pumpkin"

2003 Jaaaag XJ 260K miles and counting

2000 Ford Mondeo Verona 1.8 pez FOR SALE Now with new As owner

2000 Ford Puma 1.7 - Roffled and now with new AS owner

1968 AMC Rebel SST convertible (working and road legal but in limp home mode)

1967 AMC Rebel SST convertible (superior body and originality being slowly raided for spares for the '68) Off road for at least the last 25 years

1956 Chevy 210 4 door hardtop - bought in 2000 and still in my garage - I even do a bit of work on it occasionally - long term project

2005 MG ZT-T awaiting completion of engine transplant of spare V6 after OMG HGF on the engine that "never has that problem"

2005 Land Rover Discovery - for long trips and moving engines 


#15299 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 06:09 PM

Turning the pump down a touch always used to help the Jap import Pajeros as well as a can of Forte.
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#15300 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 11:27 PM

Has anyone ever used a Pela 6000 to bleed their brakes/clutch system? Just thinking of possible tools (that I already have) to make a clutch slave change on the MGB a bit less of a nuisance.

I have one of those really cheap eBay special vacuum pumps that's I've used to test EGR and other stuff before. However I'm not convinced it'll work very well for bleeding stuff.
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