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The Crying Pumpkin - Dire MOT fail on rust - any takers?


AMC Rebel

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OK ran out of time so the rest will have to wait till the weekend, but for now, put the radio back in with wires connected to the appropriate connectors in the ISO block.  Results -

 

Radio now works on ignition - so no (albeit tiny) current drain from the wee light that was on all the time before.

 

Many more stations now being received as I reconnected the power feed to the aerial amp in the rear - now have MW. LW and a load of FM.

 

So far so good.

 

Off to do school run in it later so we'll see if it throws up any new challenges :)

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Win and lose -

 

Win 

 

Radio all working as above (no sub or rear speakers yet) 

The side repeater decided to let me off after all the agonising I did about the crusty inner wing and started working

 

Lose

 

I have dislodged something in the rat's nest of choc blocks and crappy crimped connectors under the cubby box whilst I was tracing the stereo wiring and reattaching the rear vent pipe that means none of the leccy windaz is now working.  Won't be serious.

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So today I decided to fit the new steering lock I bought a while back.  Upon removing the old one it was apparent why the barrel drops out occasionally - there were no tumblers in the lock mech at all.

 

It put up a decent fight against removal but I won in the end although it did mean dismantling most of the interior of the car.

 

post-20411-0-22154300-1485026642_thumb.jpg

 

post-20411-0-48207700-1485026646_thumb.jpg

 

 

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I reckon this car has been owned by my mate Trev at some point.  I once had to go and help him sort out a mess in his house wiring he'd created by identifying which circuit under the floorboards was lighting using the simple but excessively invasive method of turning off the power and severing wires until he found the one he wanted.

 

He'd then reconnected his 30 amp ring main using one of those 5amp 3 pin connectors you used to use to extend your granny's standard lamp flex.

 

Someone seems to have done something similar to the Pumpkin's wiring - chopped through almost every circuit and then reconnected them using something crappy - why?

 

Anyway, I can't talk, I'd ordered some new correctly spaced decals for the front and rear so that "Range Rover" seemed a bit more authentic.  Of course, my enthusiastic removal of the old ones on the bonnet sadly brought some of the paint with them in an entirely predictable balls-up typical of my "skillz".

 

post-20411-0-51173700-1485027202_thumb.jpg

 

Thankfully my technique was much improved by the time I did the back

 

 

post-20411-0-37943500-1485027253_thumb.jpg

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Mine is the same. The light is so poor I looked into other types of bulb, but then I decided I liked the yellowish light as it reminded me of olden days.

 

The poppers that hold the arch liners tend to let rusting happen around the holes. I modded the liners so that they just protect the gap between the outer and inner body and so far so good. The liners are just water traps in my opinion.

 

Welcome to a life time of fun, but not trouble free rangie motoring

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Yup, those plastic front liners have been responsible for seeing off many Discoverys and RRCs  :-(

 

I'm afraid you'll almost certainly find big holes if you remove them; the clips are a weird metal affair, which grip like mad.  If you're feeling brave, choping the clips with a dremel type tool is the quickest/ least damaging way.

 

The car looks great, btw.  I have one too, a 1971 2-door but it's a (very) long term project at the moment!

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Yo AMC, I know the dismantling to get the wires through might be a pain but I'd be tempted to just replace the RCAs to the sub with new ones.

 

You could still end up with no/poor signal after splicing new connectors on.

 

Good call - and actually I've been having a rethink on this anyhow.

 

I have (finally) managed to establish that -

 

I am 99% sure that the amp on top of the sub did indeed feed both front and rear speakers (I originally thought it was for the sub and rear speakers).

 

The latest wiring diagram I can find online lists a front and rear amp, but actually the front amp doesn't appear anywhere on the diagram - if there ever was a separate amp. I don't think it was fitted to mine.

 

The signal level feed to the rear amp came from a third ISO connector, as seen in this photo (Stolen from t'internet - this isn't my car or headunit).

 

post-20411-0-43564200-1485117219_thumb.jpg

 

The pink connector has the line outs - including one for the sub which is the one the bloke is holding.

 

In 1994 4x25w was respectable, but the speakers are somewhat weedy, and although the position of the rear ones is a novelty, yesterday I wired in my phone to two of the RCAs - this got sound from the two rear speakers, but they aren't great sounding units either.

 

There is another small amplifier on top of the sub that powers the sub.  It's a twin channel amp as the sub is a dual cone unit, but as far as I can see only a single mono signal feed goes to the amp (as is normal for subs).  I'd like to get this working just to hear what it's like and I will have more of a go when I get around to it.

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And here it is resplendent with new steering lock -

 

post-20411-0-97258500-1485118191_thumb.jpg

 

The pumpkin repaid all this attention by refusing to start until jumped to the Discovery

 

Another thing to add to my list - it's fine unless you're trying to start it when cold or if it's not been used for a while.

 

The glow plugs aren't connected which won't be helping but it's odd that a jump start will get it going straight away.

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I don't recall ever needing to wait for the glowplugs when I had a 200Tdi. Except when it was running 75% SVO and parked overnight in -10c, Even then it was just to stop 30secs of knocking when started.

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Scared myself silly by reading some stuff in a Land Rover mag I bought from Tesco.  One of their contributors with a similar age RR classic blew it up on the M5 seizing the diff.  I'm not (that) worried at the prospect of needing a new transfer box, but I'd rather it didn't let go in such a spectacular fashion.  The rest of his article was a salutary tale about buying without checking body mounts - I took a look at the ones on the Pumpkin and they didn't fill me with confidence although they aren't totally missing like a couple this chap had seen.  I am probably worrying for no reason - I usually am. 

 

BTW I am in no way complaining - Pumpkin was a bargain and has already been a barrel of laughs.

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I don't recall ever needing to wait for the glowplugs when I had a 200Tdi. Except when it was running 75% SVO and parked overnight in -10c, Even then it was just to stop 30secs of knocking when started.

Thanks - good to know.  I am not running this on veg.

 

Once it's been running it starts really well.  It's had a new alternator and battery within living memory so should all be good - maybe I'll give them both a check over.

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What happens? I'm going to guess at spins over but doesn't fire?

 

That'll be the lift pump, they don't last. Or an air leak around the fuel filter, or the pipes on the top of the tank have rotted & letting air in...

 

When you jump it I bet it spins faster which will help it catch.

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2 and 300TDis normally start first crack!  I agree with the above ^ Lift pump could be failing and do check no air is getting into the fuel pipes.  If you replace the pump, get a Delphi one-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-200-Tdi-DIESEL-LIFT-PUMP-ETC7869-HFP501-461-383-93151739-/141244188635?hash=item20e2cf47db:g:lK0AAMXQydtTPC6T

Even if that's not the problem, it's well worth replacing for the money as they can and do fail.

 

I keep a stock of fuel filters for my clunkers.  At £3 a go, I change them regularly.  The Britpart ones are ok on this occasion-

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-filter-britpart-aeu2147l-p-1324.html

 

The glow plugs are not needed in our Country in my opinion, even in this cold snap.  Another advantage of direct injection!

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It's awkward because there is no clear section of pipe.. but any joint showing dampness needs nipping up or its washer replacing.  Chief suspects are the unions on the filter housing (copper washers) and the rubber seal between the filter and the housing.  Leak off pipes aren't a problem.

After the engine has sat for a while, undo the 10mm bolt on top of the filter housing.  It should be full to the brim with diesel.  If it's down by a fair bit (difficult to tell, I know..) it's possible the fuel is draining back to the tank due to an air leak, which will increase the time it needs to pressurise enough to operate the injectors.

 

Does sound like it's not turning over too quickly though- is the battery fit and being charged properly?  The alternator belts are too thin on these and slip readily.  I recommend a Dayco belt, done up tightly!

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Might be worth checking you've got a decent earth too.

My last Disco had managed to gradually corrode any earths away to the extent it was only earthing through the handbrake cable, this lead to not wanting to start on its own battery, but as soon as a bit of extra juice was applied it fired up. Problem was it melted the inner plastic cable casing which stuck the handbrake on - changing the cable is not a 10 minute job.

Incidentally it would start from a bump at about 1 mph, I used to park the back wheels just on the edge of a kerb and just dropping off the kerb would be enough to start it in 2nd- not much use for an auto , I know.

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Might be worth checking you've got a decent earth too.

My last Disco had managed to gradually corrode any earths away to the extent it was only earthing through the handbrake cable, this lead to not wanting to start on its own battery, but as soon as a bit of extra juice was applied it fired up. Problem was it melted the inner plastic cable casing which stuck the handbrake on - changing the cable is not a 10 minute job.

Incidentally it would start from a bump at about 1 mph, I used to park the back wheels just on the edge of a kerb and just dropping off the kerb would be enough to start it in 2nd- not much use for an auto , I know.

 Good shout - once it's been started it's really quick to spark up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ordered a new steering damper which came today.  There's a groan from the steering at low speeds when applying steering lock, and a knock from the n/s that you can feel through the steering when you go over bumps at speed.  T'internet suggests the steering damper may be to blame - although I suspect it's more than one thing, but the damper is cheap enough and looks like an easy job even for a hamfisted oaf like me.

 

The n/s swivel is leaking oil a bit so I suspect there's more work to be done in that area.

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Sounds like the CV within the swivel could be the knock. From memory you need a spring balance to set the swivel bushes properly, I just used to do them by feel & they didn't leak.

Oh, I can't remember why but you can't use the swivel grease on early ones like this unless you change something. It might be the swivel oil seal but I'm not sure.

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  • 1 month later...

OK, back from it's week in the Land Rover hospital and it is resplendent with right and left swivels, seals, housings bushes and pin kits.  

 

And there's still a knock through the steering over bumps - it just doesn't feel quite so life-threatening.  The steering feels nicer but it still does the groaning sound on moving onto full lock at low speeds.  I suspect the steering box might be dodgy.

 

Glad to have the swivels done - not a job I fancied tackling, but disappointed the original problem is largely still there.

 

As I'd quite like to lose the suspension lift anyway, maybe new springs and shocks would be a good start in any case.  

 

I deliberately drove over the same scandalous* piece of motorway surface to test it - I couldn't go as fast as I did when it did the death wobble due to traffic - it didn't do it again but it wasn't very confidence inspiring. 

 

 

* the motorway surfaces I saw in Cuba in 2007 were vastly superior.

 

 

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post-20411-0-38534900-1489431786_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Today I was able to try that same bit of motorway - and it did the death wobble again.

 

I am pleased that the swivels are done, but the cost was very wallet-challenging.

 

I am slightly pissed off that the LR specialist hasn't solved the actual problem I took it in for - and I fear taking it back as it'll no doubt be another massive bill when they replace more stuff.

 

My question is - could this be the steering box?  The steering has an intermittent groaning noise when turning the wheel at slow speeds - since the swivels are now redone I am thinking I can discount them, so I have to think the groaning is coming from the steering box or the shaft (the one between the steering wheel and the box).  Of course the groaning might not be related to the death wobble - but it's not good.

 

I have fitted a brand new Bilstein steering damper - so what's left? 

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Is there a UJ in there somewhere as part of the pre-steering box linkage (there's one just near the steering box on Disco 2s but no idea on a Classic) which could be seizing up?

 

My technical knowledge is nil, but a D2 owning mate had a similar issue with his car and that was the cause.

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death wobble a truly terrifying affair so I sympathise, mine also had a knock coming up through the steering on bumps

 

Fixed mine after following a similar routine to yours except I done the work myself.

 

Did the preload on the top swivel pin - critical to get that preload correct assuming that your LR chap did that right when he put in new swivels

 

Next Wheel bearings, with the wheel off the road shouldnt feel any side/side nor top to bottom play to confirm both these are spot on

 

Next I checked all four steering ball joints for wear. even the slightest is not going to help

 

Then I replaced the front axle bushes, all of them. I initially put red polybush in but they were harsh, replaced with blue

 

Then I replaced the front dampers both fronts passed the bump test but when on the bench neither extended to full length by themselves!! Both fucked and replaced. Made a huge difference to handling but still the brown trouser wobble still occured sometimes

 

Steering box was ok, I did try adjust some of the play out of it, be very careful you dont over do it as you will crush bearings inside the box which will need a stripdown to replace. I ended up getting a recon steering box which improved the steering feel no end. as did the new intermediate steering shaft in the engine bay

 

Lastly on on the basis of the fucked front shockers I removed the newish steering damper, a blue part, it extended and compressed nicely but all the bushes were shagged!!!. I bought a branded item and found it to put up a heck of a lot more resistance than the "blue" part.

 

Fitting this and ensuring that the bushes were crushed tight.

 

Death wobble totally fixed!! Just because the damper is new don't mean that it is fixed.

 

the clonk through the steering was a lot better also. I found that the front ARB links were dead and with these replaced the car has beenb perfect since.

 

Any or all of the above fixes can contribute to death wobble

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