Desperately Seeking Volvoista's

[castros_bro]

Solely because I used to drive a bus and solely +1 am 120 miles away I have been summoned to assist in the repair of a never known before occurrence  a Volvo 240  FTP . 

 

I am seeking information on what the ignition system would be, it has vital statistics of 1990 petrol manual estate with a vin    YV1245273L18738?? 

 

 

Any hints or soft porn jokes appreciated.

   

 

[Richard]

I can look it up but not until I get home this evening.

[AMC Rebel]

Fairly sure these stuck with a dizzy/separate coil till the end -even on the injected ones.

[rml2345]

If it's a four pot Redblock they were still coil - distributor - leads.

I'd check the fuel pump relay first, old Volvos are good at killing those.

[DSdriver]

If its the same as the 940 the dizzy is right at the back of the cylinder head and you need to poke a small child down there to undo the screws. Consequently they don't get looked at much.

[Shep Shepherd]

The distributor caps on late 200/700/900 four cylinder engines are a bit of a bugger to remove, especially in the dark at the side of the road. I recommend that you use a suitably-sized ratchet ring spanner, which makes the task a lot easier.

 

As a matter of course, I replaced the distributor cap on The Volvo not long after I bought the car in 2003. It turned out to be the original (date stamped 1987, so it was NOS even when the car was built) and looked like it hadn't been removed for years, despite the car having been regularly serviced by a Volvo dealer until just before bought it. Oddly, despite the electrodes on the cap and the rotor arm being extremely pitted, the car ran really well.

[Tamworthbay]

It's a lost cause, get him to sell it to me.

[danthecapriman]

The distributor caps on late 200/700/900 four cylinder engines are a bit of a bugger to remove, especially in the dark at the side of the road. I recommend that you use a suitably-sized ratchet ring spanner, which makes the task a lot easier.

 

As a matter of course, I replaced the distributor cap on The Volvo not long after I bought the car in 2003. It turned out to be the original (date stamped 1987, so it was NOS even when the car was built) and looked like it hadn't been removed for years, despite the car having been regularly serviced by a Volvo dealer until just before bought it. Oddly, despite the electrodes on the cap and the rotor arm being extremely pitted, the car ran really well.

My old 740 was much the same.

Getting the ancient old one off was a nightmare. I seem to remember struggling like hell to get the rotor arm off too. Isn't it held on with a little screw on these? I'm sure mine was utterly seized. Did it in the end but why didn't Volvo just leave the dizzy in the traditional place instead of moving it the back of the cam.

The really old 240's, with the B21 engines had them, very much like a Ford Pinto and it was a piece of piss to get at.

[Shep Shepherd]

My old 740 was much the same.

Getting the ancient old one off was a nightmare. I seem to remember struggling like hell to get the rotor arm off too. Isn't it held on with a little screw on these? I'm sure mine was utterly seized. Did it in the end but why didn't Volvo just leave the dizzy in the traditional place instead of moving it the back of the cam.

The really old 240's, with the B21 engines had them, very much like a Ford Pinto and it was a piece of piss to get at.

The distributor cap screws are a bolt-crosshead screw hybrid, which makes things much less difficult if you're at the roadside and/or have a limited number of tools to hand. Having said that, a ratchet ring spanner is the best tool for the job in my experience

 

If I recall correctly, the rotor arm is a friction fit, but as you said they can be a real struggle to remove if they've been on for some time; I had to destroy the one on my erstwhile 940 Wentworth in order to remove it. 

[AMC Rebel]

Any news on the outcome of this FTP?