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COLLECTED: Rover 75 (Dealer 'Launch' Spec)


BorniteIdentity

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Get it tested properly first, ideally by a Rover friendly garage with a T4 or some decent diagnostic kit.   It is probably worn brushes in the fan but sometimes it can be a sender unit fault that tells the fan when to come on.

 

i.e. My 75 is odd because the demist test works 'But' the fan does not kick in when it should i.e. at 100oC. Your Rover does not always need the fan so this is fine for normal driving but if I do ever hit traffic and using the on board digital temp gauge I stick the fan on if it goes past 96oc, How do I do that??  Basically by triggering the air con on 'LO' and with 'econ' off triggers the fan to spin, hey presto, temp soon comes back down again in no time.  

 

Not ideal I know, but fan replacement with all the gubbins is a front bumper off job.

 

Don't worry, I have a list of jobs to get done on mine somewhere and it looks like a new loo roll, the fan replacement is on there somewhere near the top!!

 

Can't you just stick a multimeter in the fan plug & see if it gets 12v when the fan should come on? if it does it's the fan, if not it's something else - probably the sensor.

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I guess the coolant needs to be perfect strength then. If the dude has been topping up with water, it'll boil off no? I've got some OAT on the way.

Shouldn't do because pressurised.

 

I doubt the v6 would really get to temps much above 106. The low speed fan seemed very effective in my old one.

 

By the time you hit 115 it'll be a bit too late!

 

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Something else to check at least annually is the plenum chambers, notably the nearside one as it contains the ecu. There's a drain hole at the bottom that gets blocked, then the plenum starts filling with water. If it reaches the bottom of the ecu it starts getting expensive.

 

They're easy enough to check. Can't remember if the wiper has to come off, but there's a bit of rubber trim and a couple of clips to get the cover off. Can't remember the exact sequence (which I think says it's about time I did mine again) but there's a proper guide on the 75/ZT forum. It's fairly obvious just by looking at it. Anyway once you've got he cover off, remove all the leaf mulch from the bottom until you find the drain hole and find a thin piece of rodding or bamboo garden cane type stuff, but it needs to be quite long as the drain hole goes down a long way. Give it a good poke until the gunge and any water come flowing out of the bottom of the car just behind the front wheel.

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Something else to check at least annually is the plenum chambers, notably the nearside one as it contains the ecu. There's a drain hole at the bottom that gets blocked, then the plenum starts filling with water. If it reaches the bottom of the ecu it starts getting expensive.

 

They're easy enough to check. Can't remember if the wiper has to come off, but there's a bit of rubber trim and a couple of clips to get the cover off. Can't remember the exact sequence (which I think says it's about time I did mine again) but there's a proper guide on the 75/ZT forum. It's fairly obvious just by looking at it. Anyway once you've got he cover off, remove all the leaf mulch from the bottom until you find the drain hole and find a thin piece of rodding or bamboo garden cane type stuff, but it needs to be quite long as the drain hole goes down a long way. Give it a good poke until the gunge and any water come flowing out of the bottom of the car just behind the front wheel.

Aye. Rodding out my old 1.8T was one of the most satisfying experiences. I imagine it's similar to "shaving" the meat in a kebab shop.

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Shouldn't do because pressurised.

 

I doubt the v6 would really get to temps much above 106. The low speed fan seemed very effective in my old one.

 

By the time you hit 115 it'll be a bit too late!

 

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This, depending on the pressure held the hotter it can get without boiling. I seem to recall the original Mini Coopers got a higher rated cap than the normal cars to stop them boiling.

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Lower fan speed should have kicked in at 100oC and brought the coolant temp back down to 96oC

 

Did the fan come on with aircon switched on 'LO' and econ switched off?  Not ideal in the middle of January but this should force your fan on Mr Borne.

 

Didn't you say the fan kicked in the other day? 

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Lower fan speed should have kicked in at 100oC and brought the coolant temp back down to 96oC

 

Did the fan come on with aircon switched on 'LO' and econ switched off? Not ideal in the middle of January but this should force your fan on Mr Borne.

 

Didn't you say the fan kicked in the other day?

Aye the fan came on last week when I was hauling arse up the A43 then got stuck in roadworks.

 

Excuse my ignorance, but the air con. Is it always ON unless you hit ECON? I need to read the manual really, but I'm tied up reading the book on BMWs take over of Rover. (!)

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Aye the fan came on last week when I was hauling arse up the A43 then got stuck in roadworks.

 

Excuse my ignorance, but the air con. Is it always ON unless you hit ECON? I need to read the manual really, but I'm tied up reading the book on BMWs take over of Rover. (!)

Yes air-conditioning only off when Econ showing :)

 

If you press auto it will revert to aircon

 

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Right, I have been fiddling about with this today, so as I did suspect you don't actually need the aircon.

 

Press the demist button (lit up 2nd from the right) then press the 'econ' button to switch off econ so you see the same as below, this forces my fan to come on.

 

If this does not work then try taking both temperatures right down from say 24 (or whatever yours is on) to 'LO' and see if that makes it come on.

 

In all cases econ must be off.

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Regards boot leaks, the trim under the back window can leak as the clips go through the body. Some of this fixes that. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/171234457522?lpid=122&chn=ps&adgroupid=39613511478&rlsatarget=pla-279348967418&adtype=pla&poi=&googleloc=1007377&device=c&campaignid=737386489&crdt=0

 

Also mine had a leak from the bolts at the side that hold the boot hinges on. Removed one at a time is siliconed the threads then back on. Its now almost watertight. I think i had a full house of 75 boot leaks.

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Threads like this which list all the little niggles, actually put me off owning one again.

 

I've gone from a passing admiration of the fully loaded ones, to fancying one and being put off by the fear of the unknown, to wanting a fully loaded Kv6 Automatic estate, to deciding I'm probably better off just sorting out the Mongedo and using that.

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Threads like this which list all the little niggles, actually put me off owning one again.

 

I've gone from a passing admiration of the fully loaded ones, to fancying one and being put off by the fear of the unknown, to wanting a fully loaded Kv6 Automatic estate, to deciding I'm probably better off just sorting out the Mongedo and using that.

I know what you mean.

 

But.

 

I don't know know of a car over 5 years old without known weaknesses and fragilities.

 

My 1999 Avensis is absolutely perfect. 197000 and nothing has ever stopped working. But my power steering creaks and the gearbox is notchy. Google it and it's enough to put you off them.

 

A little knowledge is dangerous. A lot is terrifying. Ignorance is bliss.

 

I take comfort from the fact my Uncle's FIL runs one with zero mechanical knowledge and the family has had the car from new. It still cars very well, is good at being a car and will keep carring for sometime yet.

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I have only just caught up with the fan story, In June my 75 was used as a slave car for Shitefest 2016, in July I went to Aylesbury queued in traffic and everything was fine, 2 days later I lent the car for a trip to Buckingham and fan had stopped working. I called for an Auto electrician who said he needed to take the front of the car apart to check it properly and the verdict was dead fan. After he had finished it looked like I had crashed the car!

 

I managed to get the motor apart and found the brushes were very worn. I managed to buy some replacement brushes much to my delight, but when I went to reassemble it I found I had cracked a permanent magnet the motor. In my defense the motor is not designed to come apart and has heavy metal tags that are slit and splayed and take a lot of force to move them. I had to give up with that motor.

 

After several weeks of searching I found another fan assembly and had the Auto electrician put it back together for me. It all works perfectly now and seems no harm done in spite of boiling when the fan first failed.

 

The only problem I have now is the heater only gives luke warm air. I don’t know if the problem was there all a long or just after the fan failure as I only bought the car in May 2016.

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Well we're now 600 miles down in the viking long boat, and so far so good.  The interior light is still not functioning, despite a replacement fuse.  Same goes for the fag lighter.  If the car's still here in 6 months I'll get an auto-electrician to look it over.  Probably needs a new light unit, but I'm mystified about the cigar lighter.  I'll ask them to spend no more than 30 minutes checking it over before wiring something straight to the battery/spare fuse location.

 

I'll be honest, I spent about 24 hours over the weekend in a complete state of panic.  Weirdly, there was no coolant in the header tank last week so I plonked some in up to the max line.  Anyway, checked it the other day and it looked fuller.  

 

Despite knowing that

 

1) HGF is rare on the KV6 cars

2) They usually put coolant in the oil, rather than the other way around

3) The coolant looked pretty clear

 

...a bit of poo did come out.  Back in 2012 when I had the 1.8T I never really got over the fear that it was going to rape me at the next turn, even though it never really did.

 

Then the heater was running a bit cool.  Further mookie sticks were passed into my M&S briefs until I couldn't walk normally.

 

Then I remembered, you can "blend" the face vents in the middle to be a mix of hot or cold.  They were set to cold.  Also remembered I filled up the coolant on a slight incline.  I went for a fresh change of undercrackers and got on with the business of driving.

 

It really is lovely.  VIS motors give a significant shove at 3,000 rpm and the Audi driver who bumrushes me every morning at 0500 in my Toyota stayed at a respectable distance in my rear view mirror this morning.  

 

Hopefully it doesn't repay my Autoshite love letter by turning me over at the next opportunity!

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I'm sure your coolant level is fine. Mine requires a slight top up every few weeks.

 

You have probably seen the list of items that don't work on my car but none of them stop me using and enjoying the car. I probably should care that the sunroof is stuck shut, that the electric seats don't work and that the rear doors don't open and unlock as they should. But I look at it then get in and drive it and forget about those minor things on an old car that cost me a few hundred quid.

 

How did you get on with testing the fan?

 

I would be sourcing some nice crowns if that was my car, the easiest 75 alloy to get hold of.

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The wheels have really grown on me, strangely.  

 

I like the serpents best, but I can't really justify the price bearing in mind I've got new rubber all around at the moment, plus the potential ride compromise too.  Unions are also a strong favourite, but not correct for this car.  I might try something else at tyre time.

 

Thanks for your help.  I bought one as a good blend of classic and modern, but the worry is that everything's a lot more expensive on these than on an old tin shed like the Sierra.  Probably not fair to compare them tho!

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