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Land Rover resto - new project and Sandy p25


richardthestag

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Fixed the welder gas supply, by tightening the fuck out of the brass feed. even when it was at the point I was worried it was going to strip the gas was still pissing out. so I gave it another full turn - nowt to lose scenario. it didnt strip and now holds gas

 

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This gave me the excuse to get the rear axle back together again, first on are the spring support and bump stop. they are both at the same angle as the items at the other end :D levelled up the axle on wooden blocks with nails to hold the axle steady but allow me to twizzle it

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measured the spring mount which is 15cm to the bolt hole from the splash shield mount, checked before cutting the old bit off and also matches the other end of the axle

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trusty spirit level ensures that it will be at the same angle as the other spring mount

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weldage

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bumpstop was aligned by the same method.

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with one side welded minor adjustment was required

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weldage

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next is the radius arm mount, not the same level as the spring mounts, fortunately I have a reference point on the radius mount at the other end of the axle. so again, welded it up. I filled in a couple of hollows with weld while I was at it

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Next I tacked the diff pan into place

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refitted the diff to ensure that the crown wheel fitted

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then ran out of gas, arghhh, I was about 90% done as well so I just carried on which was a mistake as I now have to dress back a load of hollow welds and clean up splatter. New bottle tomorrow

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over all good progress though

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Redshed is the project waiting. It has been in this tent for the last two winters, and not entirely sure that the tent will ensure another North Easterly storm, get a few here. so the plan was to shift it into the end of the barn and cover it over. then sell the tent on ebay I reckon there is life left in it, just needs a sheltered location

 

Here is the start point, the car hasnt been started in a while so the plan was to tow it out and then see if we could get it started

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needed a bit of manoeuvring to get it reversed out and past the ramp, dad was in his Series, I was steering etc

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battery was predictably flat, though the electrics did show encouraging signs of life, just not enough time to charge the battery up so chose to tow the car up into the field and then roll it down hill into the barn. simple on paper

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My Range Rover made a right mess of dads recently levelled ground. oops. the series failed to move it either.

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eventually my range rover won and dragged Red shed far enough that we could shove it into the barn.

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I am putting a video together of the whole debacle

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not done a lot today, replaced a broken brake bulb on the daily

 

found damage from the "getting stuck in the yard on snow" shenanigans last week*. when the car slipped sideways I knew that the light guard touched the wall. but today found that it has punched through the rear lens. I guess somewhat ironically had the light guards not been fitted the lens would have survived intact.

 

FFS

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Anyway Land Rover while fitting vanity accessories as useful as a turd in a wetsuit did at least see fit to provide a suitable platform for all the fittings when changing a bulb. The useless light guard did however prove to be exceptional as a balance point for my phone to video the lights functioning while I was up front pressing the brake pedal

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celebrated with a slippery ride to the top of teh field

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*which i didnt post in this thread, anyway here is the youtube video of the fun

 

https://youtu.be/D53U0ISITXc

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for the project I did try and get more gas - see contents of boot in thread above. Howeverz the local supplier was out so going back tomorrow

 

flap disc'd the welds back to smooth

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used a prep wheel to shift the black paint off the rest of the diff pan. ready for the epoxy 1-2-1 paint tomorrow. it needs bare steel

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This is the front axle, cleaned back a paint run which went right over the axle number. more paint tomorrow

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used wire cup to clean back to "ready for paint" the rear radius arms

post-3439-0-32994800-1513703467_thumb.jpg

 

paint tomorrow

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painting today

 

back axle

post-3439-0-41227200-1513794243_thumb.jpg

 

front axle needed a little touch up

post-3439-0-93575700-1513794243_thumb.jpg

 

radius arms etc

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steering brace

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takes a couple of days to dry, tomorrow is diff checks

 

also fixed my angle grinder which gets mega hot when in use, undid 4 screws on the gearbox and loaded it with grease. see how that goes tomorrow

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  • 4 weeks later...

so Christmas has been and gone, Hallelujah back to normalcy again

 

Mrs thestag and the lads are back from SA, yay

 

I bought diffs and a frame arms back from Devon with me but have done the square root of bugger all this year. Doc upped the dosage last week and life is brighter already.

 

I bought a 20 tonne press from automec as part of ebays 20% new year discount. wanted one for ages and now I have one.

 

My workshop is a shed though, quite literally, my phone camera is also a bit knackered, there is a crack across the lens cover!

 

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had a clearout of old pallets and shit, stuck some shelves on the walls made from slats from an old single bed and looking better already

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the other end still needs attention, there are 6 push bikes in here somewhere

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new press came flat packed and was fiendishly heavy in one box, Matty boy #1 son though nah piece of piss. I had to help him though.

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pressing bushes out of a frame arms, I faffed and farted about, this is the metal outer ring of the bush, it got to 15 tonnes and went bang, moved 2 mm

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I need to stock up on drifts rather than using sockets, I was protecting the faces of the sockets but a drift would have been easier, the sleeve is bent because I though about pushing it back through the other way using an old impact socket. however the angle of the a frame arm rendered that option dead.

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for the next two arms, i have two pairs of a frame arms, will pick the best pair for the car. I pushed the rubber centre through using a smaller impact socket.

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then pressed the outer sleeve using a disc from my bear press set. and a big socket

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for the last bush I had a think about it. centred the disc from the bearing press set by using one of the mounting bolts, pressed the whole lot 3mm. Replaced these bits with the sockets and pushed it right through.

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Toughest bush needed 15 tonnes of pressure,easiest just 5 tonnes

 

tomorrow I am checking tolerances on the diff so that can be shimmed up and installed into the axle in a couple of weeks when I am back up Devon

 

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i know what you mean about the press, mine is hand operated, the whole thing is very heavy like 90 kilos. i chickened out at 15 tonnes and tapped the work piece with a 3lb hammer.

 

then gave it one more crank and it went bang quite loudly. shat myself but the bush moved.

 

I am going to see how many tonnes of force it takes to fix an iphone 6 later ;)

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Needed to use Range Rover for trip to Gosport to see my nephew for his 18th yesterday.

 

5 of us will not fit into Mrs Thestags i10.

 

5 of us only just fit in a Range Rover, this is #1 son

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Journey down fine, friend commented on rainbow under front bumper, had a quick check before leaving and could see nothing obvious so thought must be last few drops from the PAS pump clip failure last month

 

coming of the M40 at Beaconsfield I noticed that the gearbox was no longer locked in top gear at over 55mph. oooooh

 

on stopping the gearbox seemed to be slipping a lot more than usual. Drove home very carefully, just 7 miles.

 

Today though I would check autobox level which was off the bottom of the dipstick gahhhhh

 

unclipped the front panel 

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Bolloxs

 

Gearbox should be ok I am sure, I will need to change the filter but that can wait to I get to devon and can work undercover

 

The gearbox cooler is the bog brush bit in front of the aircon rad. 2nd hand dont look any better than the one I have and are £80+

 

Famous Four have one that looks like it will fit at £140 +vat

 

 

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fixed it in the week. 2nd hand units were available on ebay, 3 issues

  1. they looked as rusty as mine
  2. I have no idea how much swarf and crap would be in them
  3. they were more than 50% of the cost of a new unit

I really should have paid better attention to this pic taken on 21 Dec, clearly see the atf staining the front grill next to the Land Rover badge, there is only one place that is coming from!! I had topped it up the day before

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access to the unit is easy

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with the unit still secured and knowing I have a new unit undoing the unions was tough but dooable with a firm hand and a "universal" spanner with a long handle

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most of what is wet is ATF btw

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had to salvage this bracket from the original unit

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new o rings for the pipe ends were supplied

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got the nuts wound on to the new cooler first, then secured it to the front panel, then tightened the pipe nuts 

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topped up with ATF, the car uses Dexron II and has a 9 litre capacity, 4 litres are in the Torque converter and generally stay there. so how much did I have to put in

post-3439-0-20800300-1516993313_thumb.jpg

 

guesses?

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4 and ahalf bleedin litres!!

 

No wonder the poor thing was slipping.

 

Next jobs involve a large quantity of industrial strength degreaser and a steam cleaner.

 

especially with the fluid leak crap on the Mot now.

 

the car looks like a rolling amoco cadiz, all sealed now though

 

 

 

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Land Rover diffs are about as easy as you can get. everything uses tapered roller bearings and shims for the pinion

 

if you want info on how to rebuild the basic diff see here

 

 

in a nutshell a basic diff allows the pair of driven wheels to rotate at different speeds.

 

This is essential if you ever need to turn a corner. think about two wheels on an axle as you go your a corner. the outer wheel has to travel a much bigger arc than the inner wheel to get around the corner. Without a diff the outer wheel would drag.

 

Drift folk weld up a standard diff to allow one wheel to easily break traction on turning but also force drive to both wheels at the same time and same speed

 

A standard diff will allow drive to the wheel with the least resistance, this is why when you do a wheelspin you leave a number 1 rather than a number 11 on the blacktop. LSD will allow for a number 11 but not what I have here.

 

Range Rover and most 4x4s have three diffs, one in each of the axles and one in the middle. All three will send drive to the path of least resistance so in reality your basic 4x4 setup has exactly the same number of driven wheels as a basic 2 wheel drive car.

 

BUT on a 4x4 any of the 4 wheels can be driven, in addition any 4x4 offroader worth its weight allows for the centre diff to lock this will enable one wheel on each axle to be driven. more often than not that is all a 4x4 needs.

 

serious off road folk get diff lockers and lsd fitted to allow for a genuine 4 driven wheels

 

one does wonder the fuck why? 

 

Mechanically standard Range Rovers at the hands of the army were the first drive from north to south America including the Darien Gap

 

Complete success for the British Trans-Americas Expedition came on 9th June 1972 when Captain 
1972%20Range%20Rover%20-%20The%20Darien%
Jeremy Groves of 17/21 st Lancers sent the signal 'Mission Accomplished' from the Cape Horn area.
The Range Rovers had driven through every type of terrain. The frozen wastes of Alaska had almost stopped the undertaking when one car slid 200 yards on the ice-bound Alcan highway to smash into 
a huge lorry blocking the way. The Rocky Mountains had presented some challenging drives on roads from which vertical drops of thousands of feet descended into rushing, boulder-strewn rivers.
In Mexico they met desert conditions and in Guatemala the Pan Americas highway became a rutted track. They beat the jungles and swamps of Darien and climbed up into the high Andes.
In May 1972 they sped on through South America, crossing more mountains and once again meeting desert in Chile. Here they covered 2,375 miles in four days, and one day made 800 miles cruising at 
90 mph on a straight desert road. In the Darien Gap they only averaged 3 miles in a day!
As they neared their goal they hit snow and ice once more. Many mountain passes were blocked and it took five long days to break through this last obstacle belt. On one occasion they had to cross a lake on a very Heath Robinson local raft to avoid the blocked passes. One can imagine the feeling of achievement as the drivers gazed at Cape Horn and switched off their engines after seven months and 18,000 miles.
 
more here
 
and on youtube
 
 
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so why all that ^ guff

 

time has come for me to crack on and get the chassis rolling again.

 

both diffs looked/look incredibly clean inside. bearings and teeth are all in excellent condition.

 

this means 

a. very low mileage and looked after

b. previous own fitted rebuilt diffs

 

I have no real history of the car and PO passed away some time ago so there you go.

 

I stripped one diff down but left sun and planet gears in their cage and attached to the crown wheel (the big bugger)

 

visual inspection was that all teeth on all gears were in good shape, no sign of wear. so I didnt bother stripping any further.

 

first job was to measure from diff case to the top of the bearing.

 

WHY? because if the interface between the pinion gear (than takes drive from the propshaft) and the crown wheel (which sends the drive through 90degrees to the wheels) is not perfect then they will wear excessively and make a heck of a noise

 

land rover manual suggests to measure the difference between the top of the pinion gear and the lowest point of the bearing carrier on the diff case! still with me? took me a while to fuck about with this then I found the vid in the above post. that suggests measuring from the top of the bearing carrier to the top face of the bearing. I crucially contains the exact measurement.

 

once you have the measurement you can use shims under the bearing seat to adjust the clearance.

 

one ickle problem you cannot access the top of the bearing with the pinion gear in place!

 

However I have a press

 

12 tonnes to get the bearing to move

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using big washers and bolts I was able to clamp the inner and outer bearings and take the measurement - verdict absolutely spot on.

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reassembled the diff as per instruction in vid posted in previous post

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relocated to Devon, the second diff was in similar condition. Rather than strip it down I used engineer blue to see the gear mesh which was perfect. so rather than strip I got on with more productive stuff

 

fit hub carriers to back axle, thread lock on recovered and cleaned bolts

post-3439-0-95028300-1517167229_thumb.jpg

 

fitted one end with lock plate and splash guard

post-3439-0-43150500-1517167229_thumb.jpg

 

next to press bearing carriers into hubs

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post-3439-0-97151100-1517167230_thumb.jpg

 

checked out the rear diff with engineer blue and it was spot on, so new gasket and fitted

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tighten the diff drain plug now before I forget

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upside down axle and ready for paint

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nicely bodged filler plug, original spec on right ;)

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last thing for today is to remove the drive flange (fnarr), couple of bolts like this allow me to get the nut undone. Have a new flange (yik) oil seal to fit

post-3439-0-60368300-1517167233_thumb.jpg

 

Tomorrow get new discs (old ones didnt clean up that nice) and springs for the back axle

 

 

 

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last week collexshuned a new ... old homemade 8foot x 4 foot wooden work bench for the barn. strong enough for 18 bags of cement so should do me.

 

won it for £42 however trailer I planned to use to stuck axle deep in a field. hired one for £30 and used £30 in fuel to do the huge round trip

 

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It is going to go right at the back, might need to shift 2 ton of stuff out of the way

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In other news a chap was breaking a mid 1980 RR and was selling the bolt on chassis brackets that I am missing, they were nabbed for £30 well chuffed. Cannot show you them because Fatha Thestags cat is guarding them

post-3439-0-49974700-1517683775_thumb.jpg

 

Todays task was to build up the back axle hubs ready to get the chassis rolling again. 

post-3439-0-05873300-1517683782_thumb.jpg

 

Diff nose seal still needs to go another 3mm, trouble is with the pinion in place I cannot get socket on it to tap it fully home. resorted to using a 1/2" socket extension and a soft hammer. 

post-3439-0-43412700-1517683788_thumb.jpg

 

That worked, the seal is now recessed far enough that when the flange (snigger) is torqued up it still turns freely.

 

Two bolts are so that I can lever a against it while torquing up to to 85ft/lb

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I knew already that these shitting things were made from butter. bought them from a fly by night trader on ebay and wasted my money and time

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5kilos of the fucking things. I worked out that I can strip the thread at less than 20ft/lb

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anyway enough whinging about my ebay phailz

 

New discs, old bolts but with perfect threads, thread lock and split washers

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Inner bearing goes in and then the oil seal

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next up fit to the axle

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Next is to fit the hub and disc to the axle 

 

These are the back plates for the rear axle. they are pretty fucked and missing the flange (fnarr) that should go around the edge.

 

I will give them a clean and work out if I can salvage them. They are available new but at £200 +Vat and delivery not exactly cheap

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I can still get the rolling axle built up and add the back plates at a later date. hub and disc unit with inner bearing fitted slides onto the hub carrier

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outer bearing is fitted and secured in place with a big nut, the dial gauge was to check end float of the disc.to be honest not essential. nip it up tight, roll the disc around a few times, back off and tighten again before finding that sweet spot where the bearings are NOT dragging and there is not play felt in the bearing

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there is a lock washer and a second nut that secure the bearing in place. the issue is that when turning the outer nut against the lock washer the inner nut can turn as well. with care it can all be done and the metal lock washer bent to lock everything in place

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Drive shaft next along with drive plate gasket

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almost out of thread lock

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using a long 30mm spanner to lock the hub while I torque the drive plate nuts and we are done on this side

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and repeat for other end of axle

post-3439-0-21373100-1517685491_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-01476500-1517685503_thumb.jpg

 

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Radius arms need poly bushing up. they really are piss easy to press in with just finger pressure. I use copper grease to stop squeaks and 

 

post-3439-0-36233700-1517685738_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-73494000-1517685745_thumb.jpg

 

lubing the bolt before it secures the radius arm to the axle means that the bolt stands a good chance of being removed if needed in the future. Something that I didnt have the pleasure of when taking this car apart

post-3439-0-30634500-1517685751_thumb.jpg

 

Last up today I pulled the front diff apart so I could clean that casing and gasket face

post-3439-0-66787600-1517685765_thumb.jpg

 

crown gear is the big bugger but could also be a sun gear, inside the cage are the sun and planet gears

post-3439-0-33703400-1517685776_thumb.jpg

 

Tomorrow set up backlash, fit to the front axle and build it up.

 

Half term in 2 weeks that chassis needs to be a rolling

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good day today, started out shit because, well just because felt crappy

 

Cheered myself up unwrapping the body mounts that the cat was guarding. They came complete with the captive nut strips, I fitted the bolts. pretty chuffed with these.

 

post-3439-0-55203800-1517772318_thumb.jpg

 

Mounted the diff in the vice, so that the prop flange (fnarr) can turn and I can make adjustments.

post-3439-0-39706100-1517772358_thumb.jpg

 

I made this tool up to help turn the big adjuster on the sides of the diff.

post-3439-0-30895200-1517772324_thumb.jpg

 

In order that the adjusters can turn and the bearing caps can move, the end caps can only be nipped up. the vid ^^ says 10nm (7ft/lb). My torque wrench doesnt go anywhere near that. spring balance and foot long breaker bar does the trick.

post-3439-0-18794800-1517772331_thumb.jpg

 

(fnarr) old drive flange wasnt tight on the pinion splines. 

post-3439-0-64392200-1517772345_thumb.jpg

 

New unit doesnt come with the oil seal splash guard

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Pressed the ring off the old flange

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cleaned and pressed back on

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then onto building up the front axle :D

 

first up, bolt diff unit into axle casing

post-3439-0-22933900-1517773384_thumb.jpg

 

I needed to fit a new swivel ball to the Nearside because the original unit was corroded and would only tear the sweep seal that slows the oil leak from the swivel housing.

 

New unit doesnt come with bearings, pressed / pulled the cups into place at the same time using threaded rod

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Done

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next up is to fit the driveshaft oil seal that keeps most of the diff oil in the diff and not the ends of the axle. no idea why it is needed on the front axle BUT not the back. Also before fitting the swivel ball to the axle you need to fit the sweep seal and retaining ring

post-3439-0-42894700-1517773422_thumb.jpg

 

driveshaft slides in and engages with the diff.

post-3439-0-01248600-1517773431_thumb.jpg

 

Followed by the CV joint

post-3439-0-44697500-1517773460_thumb.jpg

 

Then the bottom swivel pin and bearing are fitted to the housing it can be hooked up and over the swivel ball and the top swivel pin fitted

post-3439-0-77277300-1517773473_thumb.jpg

 

the hub carrier that will have the hub and disc is fitted next, the drive plate bolts to the hub. more of that later. 

wrapped it up to protect it from the moisture until I can get to finish it

post-3439-0-44731900-1517773480_thumb.jpg

 

then onto the other side - where i realised that the sweep seal retaining ring is handed, what are the chances that I got the nearside wrong way round?

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bollocks, never mind, stripped it all down and rebuilt, then got cold and bored. cleared up. Back again on Saturday.

post-3439-0-19316400-1517773499_thumb.jpg

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finished off front axle this weekend

 

front axle nearside hub fitted, still need to do the hub preload but that can wait

post-3439-0-30978100-1518455030_thumb.jpg

 

rebuilt the front offside but failed to spot the odd camber - largely because I was having a bastard of a time getting the bearings to fit over the stub axle

post-3439-0-85467200-1518455054_thumb.jpg

 

my lads are here this week as well, used them to shift the new bench to the back of the barn rather than the middle of it

post-3439-0-34834200-1518455070_thumb.jpg

 

chassis was lowered back down to the horizontal and front axle fitted up with rimz and radius arms

post-3439-0-53846400-1518455085_thumb.jpg

 

despite the lads talking to me about the odd camber I failed to hear them until this point. arse I have installed the swivel ball upside down. irritatingly it was right before I had to take it apart last weekend to swap the sweep seal retainer around. 

post-3439-0-91160500-1518455094_thumb.jpg

 

30 mins to strip the hub down, remove the ball, rotate it 180 degrees and refit everything

post-3439-0-96958800-1518455125_thumb.jpg

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