Guest Hooli Posted April 15, 2018 Share Posted April 15, 2018 Looks a nice coffee table. richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 Last task for the fvcked block was to work out what was blocking the lower starter motor hole on the engine plate. ah a lump of broken tap. this shit is tough to remove. I was lucky. maybe this engine wants to run again. I decided on the above to strip down the SD1 engine that came with the car and I know to be a runner. the issue is that the dog drive securing the crank pulley is 1 5/16" deep socket which is too expensive for my taste. fret not 34mm deep works timing cover came off no bother, chain is baggy but aint they all? heads didnt take too long to whizz off, see earlier in the thread for me sticking them on to see if the engun was a runner clutch all came apart fine, cover is in good shape, plate is .5mm off slipping. = fucked cannot strap to engine rack 'cos threads is 3/8 UNC rather than nice metric on other v8. arch.. no studs long enough here but easily fixed diverted attention to rocker shafts which look nice and the shaft seems more than serviceable. no ridging here but a few of the shoes have some serious wear. wotch these space to be continued Uncle Jimmy, Skizzer, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 YooToob of the low compression engine clean and assessment YooToob of rods and fucking piston assessment Uncle Jimmy and TagoraSX 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 last couple of days have seen engine #2 stripped. suspension a frame painted ready for assembly tomorrow and finishing work started on the bulkhead. The engine blocks and cranks are coming home with me next week for engineering shop visit. Got three more days down here, want to concentrate on bulkhead and body frames. need to start getting on with this thing. Engine #2 first, this is the engine that came with the car when I bought it. Originally SD1. Check post #2 in this fred for it starting up. Had issues attaching it to the engine frame because threads in the back end are UNC and not Metric like they were on Engine #1. Had to order up some unc threaded rod to get it attached Engine crane made short work of getting it onto the rotating stand. I removed the sump first while it was still the right way up. this would stop any dregs left in the sump from dribbling back up through the block if tipped upside down. turned out to be a wise move this is most of the way through the engine block strip, pistons are AE oversized, the rings are fairly new as are the big end bearings. Big end and main bearings are also reground Bare block ready for cleanage Big 10 x 4foot bench soon fills up with crap! cleaning main bearing caps, though they were not too grubby Baffle and oil pickup are next, oil pickup ahd some nasty lumps of burnt oil stuck to it, right over the pick up pipe. this had caused the gauze to split. I wonder if this engine had struggled with oil pressure also. there is quite a big hole in the gauze, oil filter does a good job of only sending clean oil to bearings n stuff. The gauze stops the oil pump from getting buggered by shrapnel. this gauze is a dead un. Turned my attention to the sump, "hmmmmmmm sludge!" Sump and block enjoying the sun after a deep cleanse The bores look like a light hone is all that is required, there is a broken stud on the front of the block - circled in red pen on one helicoil on the Left side of the block that is proud of the surface ! circled and the front camshaft bearing is down to copper. see what the machine shop says Uncle Jimmy, coalnotdole, danthecapriman and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 main work on suspension was on the rear axle a frame The a frame pivot sits on top of the back axle. the arms bolt to the chassis. on the left is the gearbox cross member, other bits are the two a frame arms and pivot housing. stripped paint and given them a rust treatment this is the boge self levelling unit. sits between the a frame pivot and chassis. allows for soft springs at the back of the car, given a clean and rust treatment. Lick of paint will follow Bought this POR15 tester kit ages ago. Time to use it because I left the 1-2-1 chassis paint at home clean/degrease, prep and then paint 2 coats. This is at the prep stage Paint might be too glossy, should be tough though shoved chassis out into the sunshine to make some space nice day today Attaching the boge top ball joint into housing which is fixed to the chassis bead blasting the engine bay side of the bulkhead cam up real nice, bead blasting the tight arease and wire cup on angle grinder for everything else planning to epoxy prime this tomorrow. johngarty, Scruffy Bodger, Stanky and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted April 20, 2018 Author Share Posted April 20, 2018 good progress today, fitted a frame, rear calipers and made up back axle brake lines. Also filled and seam sealed bulkead and one inner wing ready for paint tomorrow First is to fit the huge fuck off ball joint that connects the a frame to the axle. I am always wary of the amount and quality of grease that is fitted in any balljoint I buy, so first thing I always do is slip off the rubber boot and check it. This seems to be full of vaseline. Wiped most out and fitted axle grease Then lined up the joint in the pivot with a couple of bolts gave it 3 tonnes and it slipped in like... well you make you your own rude joke here next fitted the Boge balljoint And attached the freshly painted Used old stock but fully functional Boge self levelling unit Both the top end attached hanging it in place and nipping up the bolts is heavy but easy Snuck the other a frame arm on and knocked the bolts through using my trusty nylon hammer followed by the 3lb hammer Nipped all the bolts up to the correct torque and done Light surface filler to tidy the bulkhead and then seam sealed it ready for paint, now worried that the rubberised seam sealer cannot be painted over and one of the new inner wings Bump stops next Dead easy to fit Except where the previous owner has bodged the rear axle nearside bumpstop mount checking why I hadnt realised this earlier and before powder coating, previous owner had hacked 3cm off the Bright orange poly pump stop... Gah. so option 1 is to paint orange bump stop black, option 2 is to cut the bracket off the chassis and weld the fucker back into the right place.... arse distracted myself from dissapoint by making up new brake lines for the back axle done and happy tomorrow is paint and front axle brake lines Banger Kenny, johngarty, Stanky and 12 others 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Epic. What a lot of work. Old cars are enough of a puzzle without the extra comedy errors of previous incompetent maintainers. richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 sup' shittrz? Paintz and brakez today Firstly I have to commit that nothing* is going back onto the chassis if it need to come off again. I need to concentrate my efforts on assembly rather than assembly, disassembly, paint, dissabelz etc etc it needs to stop. So.. rustbuster epoxy 421 primer to front inners and lower exposed part of bulkhead making up brake lines for front axle has 2 issues, tight bends and I forgot to bring the unions that sit on top of the swivels with me... yeah I know, doh etc All I could do was make up lengths that I could finish next time I am down here One of the caliper bolts has a rounded head, need to order another, not fitted n/s caliper yet. Tomorrow paint exposed section of bulkead and inner wings white and fit to chassis so I can line up rest of brake pipes Scruffy Bodger, Uncle Jimmy, oldcars and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colnerov Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Hi, Excellent work so far, I regret getting rid of mine now. A word of caution ordinary grease can attack the Nylon in the balljoints, you need a 'nylon friendly' grease. Colin richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Another good day, well for me anyway. Bulkhead fitted straight back to chassis. I wanted to check it for alignment before seam sealing and painting the inside front inner wing bolts up, giant mecanno front panel fitted, aligned nice. and then hung indicators old headlamps and grill in place to check alignment I want to get the brake lines fitted up from master - this is the pedal box with throttle and clutch pedal. pretty mucky and rusty. so needs stripping down and painting this is it all stripped back. Clutch and Brake pedals are twins Attacked the pedal box with POR15 and the pedals. I am hoping that POR15 will be tough enough to keep the pedals looking clean I want to refit the master and servo, the master strip and rebuild is coming, servo today. split the unit easily. Looks horrible on the outside but sparkly on the inside. Gave the back of the canister some knot wire brush action on the old angle grinder. Got all the surface rust off but found a hole. on the back. less critical to servo function but will be tickled with a blob of weld All stripped, ready for rust converting. I think it will work home again tomorrow. I miss the Mrs and the lads taking some bits to fix at home and engine block, pistons, crank etc for engineering summary, brake master and some other bits Next trip down here 2 maybe 3 weeks, need to check with Mrs Thestag. Then I ideally want to build up an engine and start the bugger. Finish priming the bulkhead and it the weather is good top coat it. Then fit up brakes from master to front axle. If I get time I hope to refit loom also. Gearbox strip and clean is on the critical path to getting engine back in again. Fun that is cheaper than therapy danthecapriman, drum, Tickman and 15 others 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 working on the project all week. day one stoneguard and top coat bulkhead and front inner wings. inner wings have already been painted with rust.co.uk 4to1 epoxy primer. no commercial interest just pleased with the results. I will let you know in a decade if it works, stoneguard was rattlecanned onto the underside topcoat was rattlecanned onto the primer, kind of wish that I had flatted the primer but then it might look to shiny the field is my paint bake oven today Skizzer, oldcars, Tickman and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Should be ready just in time for next winter's salt? richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 bulkhead and fitting up this is the top of the bulkhead looking from inside the car towards the passenger side. the top of the bulkhead has drain holes that allow any water that gets under the bulkhead deck panel to drain out. into a water trap... I will areldite some hose so that it clears the inner wing rails the hole drilled was then tickled with the welder and sealed up with epoxy primer paint was drying very quick today for some reason this lot is not coming off again! In other news, I have been sorting out the pedal box, the steering column bracket and the front lower radiator surround for fitment later this week. Tomorrow starting on the drivers side frame. should be able to bolt this up to the chassis maybe tomorrow. Want to get the body frame together this week, then I can start working on wiring loom and brakes Exiled_Tat_Gatherer, danthecapriman, Skizzer and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exiled_Tat_Gatherer Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Half of me is thinking - what a place to be working on my old crocs...... the other half is thinking - I'd never get a sodding thing done as I'd sit n chill out with that view...... Wish any one of my projects was coming along at this pace. Well fondled sir, looks fantastic. Banger Kenny, Uncle Jimmy and richardthestag 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 it sure is a beautiful part of the world. spent most of today raining while the rest of the country was moaning about sunburn etc. I love it here, Mrs thestag loves me being here go home again on Saturday, maybe sunday morning. Anyway Day #2 As promised drivers side frame has been worked on prepping to fit to the chassis, never to be removed again* I like how the side frame stands up all by itself. heavy but not beyond the boundaries of two blokes had to finish a bit of welding to the bottom of the a and b post. then an hour of grinding back welds over the whole panel and cleaning stuff up ready for paint. next is a thick brush coating of rust buster 421 epoxy primer drying, tomorrow seam seal and then white stoneguard, this will be enough for me to fit the side frame back to the chassis and forget it** it will need plenty of wax, dinitrol protecshun annually next up, finish pedal box and stuff this lump braces between the pedal box and the platform that the dash pod bolts to. The steering column fits to it pedal box, cleaned, painted and reassembled servo all sorted and bolted up too. Just need a brake master cylinder so if I am to fit up pedal box and working on it not needing to come off again I needed to finish off the inside of the bulkhead.rather than spending a smoll fortune on rover paint I did this with halfords enamel white.I can overcoat selectively if I need to but this lot will be covered up cleaned up surface rust and loose paint on dash top, then primed and dusted with paint, again nothing fancy as it will be covered up with the dash top. last job today, steering column. The inner column is in two parts, the outer column is just one big chunk. Took it apart because of play in the inner column bushes this load is the top column bush, a thrust washer, some shims and a spring. the silver tube in the middle contains a very cheap bearing... which is not available separately.... and the silver tube is unobtainium. Am going to reassemble, check shims and then maybe visit the bearing shop in Wycombe for something that might replace it painted outer tube, it will be staying just back from the pub and a pair of beers. now planning tomorrow Uncle Jimmy, danthecapriman, TagoraSX and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 theres fackin Doones in them valleys day #3good day, weather held out, finished up with a bonfire of all the boxes and crap in the barn including lots of oil contaminated waste that the local tip charges to drop off. 5 litres of old engine oil saw it roaring. 10 mins later all fucking gone. anyway enough of the pyromania steering column was irritating me because of unobtainium of components. I reckon that there are standard bearing sizes involved. stripped it, cleaned it and lubed it all up Then assembled, checked tolerances and it is bang on and with no play. lube helps.. Fnarr drivers side frame was shutz'd with white stoneguard then bolted up to bulkhead and chassis, note... topside still needs paint. did have to break rule #1 and remove front inner wing. arse but that was only 3 bolts, and it went back on quick enough while waiting for shutz to dry and before fitting to chassis ^ I had a go with my new throat-less shear. fucking love it on left is raw cut, on right is ready for paint unobtainium (until now )front axle brake hose bracket then went looking for the other side of the body frame checked dash top panel fitted, of course it will. wanted to see what bits of the body frame you can see around it though finished welding and cleaning up welds. this was the corner I started on. I can see improvement in my ability throughout this project epoxy primed the critical areas i.e. those that I cannot access when I fit without breaking my already broken rule of not removing shite I just fitted tomorrow seam seal, shutz the underside and fit to chassis. I need also to look at the rear goalpost - the square that the two tailgates attach too. An area that I have yet to work on oldcars, Zelandeth, drum and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 Day 4 had a great day today seam sealed the lower and under bits of the passenger frame while drying I went around the drivers side frame with Mr Seamsealer flipped the frame over and did the bits that I couldnt access first time around. Did all this using a shutz gun. neat and tidy after near 2 hours it was dry enough to fit to the chassis. I had to remove the front inner wing first much easier to drop it onto the chassis - sill mount points bolted it up to the side of the bulkhead oldcars, Tickman, Skizzer and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 windscreen top rail first. This one is pretty good but needs a good clean and rust converter this is the top of the drivers side A post - right up at the top of the windscreen inside is less pretty, passenger side had no issues at all ready to weld in the outer bit it will do is hidden under the roof. will make sure it is properly primed and protected windscreen top frame fits nice, I need to check that the screen still fits but it is the same height both sides temporarily refitted the boot floor, rear heel-board, rear floor and gearbox cover. all fits nicely 3 back ends this is the rear floor, not pretty but I can save it. that nasty patch was nothing to do with me. I can do it justice Heel-board on the right here is in good shape. rear floor on the left needs work. as does the gearbox cover Tomorrow, day off trip out to see a trimmer for seats, floor coverings and stuff oldcars, Banger Kenny, adw1977 and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Bloody hell it looks like a car already! richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 This is one of the very best threads on Autoshite. richardthestag and Banger Kenny 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 yesterday was supplier finding mission. Main objective was to see Nationwide trim, famous in Range Rover circles After lots of Devon lanes we are on the A361 Which can haz be close because of nasty accident but more nice Exmoor Devon / Somerset border roads Rover P4 Guild "we haz us a convoy" Redditch and nationwide trim with lots of interesting neighbours. Including 20 10 engineering - where I want to be at M5 Grockle traffic jamz A361 still closed - arse Pub to celebrate getting home. 325 mile round trip. average 10.3mpg on LPG ouch This pint is well worth it Cooper1, Tickman, danthecapriman and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 Liked for the pub richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 today much was achieved day #6 ..... #5 on project First job, drivers side rear inner wind pressing doesnt include hole to access rear light wiring as per early 1970s Range Rover Fortunately I hung onto a chunk of the original inner wing, lined it up traced out the holes step drill is useful at big holes at the right'ish radius Angel grinder cuts between holes pliers folds metal back to give a lip and flap disc smooths everything out nice Next is to deal with rust at tail end of rear slidey windows two sections, flat bit and zig zaggy bit. done Banger Kenny, Skizzer, scdan4 and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 All the little clamps & things used to hold stuff to weld it look dead handy. Bet they make the difference between a good job & something that looks like I did it too. richardthestag and Tickman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 next up today My Nemesis, well my biggest worry Rear wing shield for fuel filler. The original item was cut from wing before repair and after an hour of fucking around I realised the the horizontal face is not a mirror of the verical. Messing with mr Shrinker/stretcher got me to this point which I was very very pleased with original bodge with my reproduced replacement. Not yet welded in because I want to savour this repair panel for a while longer Rear goal post next - ties the two side frames together and supports the roof. Not as nasty as I recall! Tailgate seal is easy to remove, guaranteed to be a cnut to replace This is the remains of the lip on the top edge of the frame, stops* water from getting past the top tailgate. Anyone who knows Range Rovers will know that the aerodynamics of this car ensure that you drag anything that goes over the top or underneath the car back in through the back tailgate. Later cars have a warning sticker to not drive with rear tailgate open. unless you like exhaust gases these two bits of the original lip I saved to reproduce next time underneath the lip even though terminally rusty was very clean. the car is fighting to live again Lines up and it does. Held roughly in place with tie wraps because it needs to come off again for my flappy disc and paint home again tomorrow. loom and heater are going with me for refurb because they are next to be fitted Banger Kenny, Tickman, danthecapriman and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 video summary for where I am at pretty much me talking through everything that is ^ there https://youtu.be/dLk9H8iSMJg Sigmund Fraud 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 a day of huge expenditure today two more big bills will be coming interior trim and paint. gah I love it really CKM engineering called to say two rover v8 blocks and cranks are ready. yay bill = 1 bag + vat. fucksticks never mind v8 double the expense double the fun. in a nutshell scrap blue block that had seized.verdict was that it had standard bores and standard crank.It now has +010 thou grind on big end and main bearings... yeah I know even though it seized the machine shop executed magicand +020 thou rebore, the minimum overbore for Rover v8. sizes are +020 +040 and +060 the SD1 spec engine that was in the carhad +010th big ends and mains and responded well to a polishhad +020th bores and responded well to a light hone ironically the old ex-seized blue block is in better shape in that the bores are std +020thou whereas the SD1 block which I just had honed is still within tolerance for +020 pistons but started out at 020th oversized and now has lost a few more thou off that also. If fact it is just shy of +040 but will be a nice loose and powerful engine when built Plan is to build up the SD1 engine proper. get it running on the rig and sell it to replen the coffers. pair of bare blocks, cleaned, ready for paint and rebuild The SD1 block details the ex seized blue block details new cam bearings on both blocks - that alone was £275 +vat pair of beautiful cranks Next steps gearbox rebuild though. so this lots is being wrapped up in broadsheet newspaper and stored until the summer Banger Kenny, mat_the_cat, Skizzer and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 Mmmm v8 porn Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fathathestag Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Very good wondered what was happening in my barn as I ferried over beers and cooked dinners! danthecapriman, Sigmund Fraud, Cooper1 and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted June 1, 2018 Author Share Posted June 1, 2018 Very good wondered what was happening in my barn as I ferried over beers and cooked dinners! good grief Fathathestag has made it in. must have been bored. I reckon 50% of the costs so far are in consumables. cutting discs, welding gas, gin and beer Asimo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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