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Land Rover resto - new project and Sandy p25


richardthestag

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In other exciting news

 

Some of you picked up that I was having issues getting a V5c for the bobtail due to export marker.

 

I spoke to a nice lady at HMRC who sent me a NOVA1 form to complete. I sent this back as suggested complete with copies of V5C and purchase receipt.

 

1 week later DVLA sent me a fresh V5C in my name.

 

Suggestion on another thread was that maybe the car had been to NI and re registered.

 

Whatever I have ID and title for the car with it's original number. Yay

 

next big project could be unbobtailing a bobtail. I am sure it is going to need a new chassis, looking into it soon

 

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Yay glad you where able to sort it out in the end :) has the export marker vanished from the DVLA checker?

 

 

I Look forward to the unbobtailing :) one has to wonder how much of the car will still be original after all the work

 

 

(theres a part of me that would find it funny if you restored it all connoisseurs like the white one, but left it short  :mrgreen: )

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Yay glad you where able to sort it out in the end :) has the export marker vanished from the DVLA checker?

 

 

I Look forward to the unbobtailing :) one has to wonder how much of the car will still be original after all the work

 

 

(theres a part of me that would find it funny if you restored it all connoisseurs like the white one, but left it short  :mrgreen: )

 

export marker has gone online

 

re triggers broom, I kind of get where you are going.

 

If I can salvage the chassis I will, but most body outriggers are butchered as is the nose and tail. I might be able to splice another tail end onto it but that would mean cutting another chassis up. Axles, engine, gearbox are all going back into it. though the engine is seized at the mo. bulkhead, front inner wings and doors are most likely to make it back onto the finished project. Re the side frames, a-post, b-post and d-post will make a reappearance but with new extra metal to extend the gap between b and d post. The goalposts around the rear tailgates will survive also, pretty sure of that. 

 

the rest of it is going to be scrap. or to create a q-plate bobtail special maybe, or a driving chassis, I have a spare engine and gearbox and could get hold of a pair of axles. I have a set of comedy tyres and enough checka plate

 

I do like the idea of a bob on luxury bobtail and had this one not been quite such an early car I might well be tempted. issue is that so many hours need to go into it and I would be limiting the market place come resale.

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very well said :)

 

I look forward to how you go about it regardless :)

 

I love the idea of a driving chassis, bonus points if you can strap on just the bare minimum to get it road legal and then razz around in it making people go wtf  :mrgreen:

 

(a bit like bubs trike, but not a trike in this case LOL)

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another week, more progress, lots of time spent on family important stuff which does cause Mrs thestag to moan "I thought it would be ready for Easter!"

 

Honestly it is not that far off

 

Drivers door fitted out and lined up in about 4 hours flat, nearly 3 times quicker than passenger side. Mainly because I now understand how the shims work in relationship to the hinges and door gaps

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looking tidy

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I am also happy with the reflections off the body flanks, for what was effectively a posh farm vehicle.

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I had to remove both front wings to seam seal and stoneguard the steel behind

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here it is together for the last time, never to be pulled apart again. by me anyway :D

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Electrics next, nice to be able to jump from one job to another. helps relieve stress .. well does for me anyway. I fitted new horn/indicator/flash and light switchs. the other two, wipers and fog lights are recon. none of them were working at this point.

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so I decided to battle with the rear exhaust section. for 3hours gah!

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it looks ok, but for me the slant on the exhaust tailpipe is not in line with horizontal. It will piss me off so I am thinking about how to level it all up.

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I am in the middle of uploading a video on the above to yootoob.

 

But I am also editing a Lucas Prince of Darkness special on anomolies of wiring and diagnosing issues.

 

Watch this space

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very cool stuff!

 

Invacar control stalks ftw  :mrgreen:

 

I look forward the next youtube instalment :)

 

if I understand things correctly the plan is to flog it on when it done for moneys

 

do you have a buyer lined up or do you plan to put it to auction or something? :)

 

alas no Marina / Esprit door handles on this one :D

 

yes this one will have to be sold, my business now that I have opted out of the white collar ratrace. I am kind of enjoying the build and am already looking forwards to the next one. 

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latest on this project car

 

Mrs is nagging big time that the car is not yet finished, in-laws have moved into their new apartment. peace should be restored......

 

so what has happened in a week then?

 

fitted bargain new old stock rear light units that I sniped on ebay 3 years ago. these really are things of beauty and wonderment.

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fitted refurbed front sidelight/indicator units

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then fitted up all the column controls and the heater unit, now that the gearbox surround is in place - naturally now that I have fitted it I found the original, more or less exactly where I left it. never mind eh

 

Electric testing concluded after; 

- One wrong connector resolved green/brown and green/red look very similar

- One high resistance circuit resolved

- Only issue outstanding is that the headlight flasher doesnt work. new control as well. will look at it later

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observed that the new rear tailgate seal has split on the corners. I despair sometimes. looking at the old rubber to see if it can be in anyway salvaged.

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fitted up the old tailgate, strikers needed a lot of fiddling about with but now it closes easily. on newer cars the bottom tailgate is spring assisted. On these early ones tailgate closing is like a trip to the gym but without the "fat bottomed girls" on the exercise bikes in front.

 

The main reason for this exercise was to get the drivers side rear wing lined up. Better tailgate is still in the paintshop

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I painted and fitted up the front seat bases. bit of a fiddle but all went in nicely. Only thing to do now.....

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Fit the old drivers seat for the test drive, alas Radiator is being recored. 

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Fitting the scuttle / deck panel was next. What a complete ballsache.

 

Brand new front drivers wing had to come off because captive threads are M5 and not 1/4 nf24 as per original. I am not a rivet counter but nor do I have many metric fittings. M5 is not the soft of thing that is available in local DIY shops. retapped to UNF

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Storm Hannah creating havoc with the tarps, it was a fair bit blowy I must say, but they did all survive. Must get that flippin polytunnel finished

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after what seemed like a world of messing about I got the passenger side of the scuttle/deck panel about right

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part deux

 

skuttle/deck issues continued to amuse

 

while passenger side was easy, drivers side was less fun, I tried many tricks, starting with drivers side made no difference.

 

In the end drivers door top hinge had shims removed from the door side of the hinge and applied to the a-post side of the hinge so that I could push the hinge rearwards my 2mm or so

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Got it to look like this after a lot of hard work. but then found that the panel was too far back and the bonnet hinges would look odd. 

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moved onto cleaning up trim panels, plastic gloves and neat TFR made them look like new. 

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Fitted up new headlight units, original plan to use LUCAS used old stock sealed beam units was abandoned after both of them smoked out. the seal between glass and bowl must have failed. damn. Had these WIPAC units on the shelf. they have the pilot/side light installed as well which is not original but I quite like the 4 light sidelights. Plus standard 3 spade H4 halogen bulbs. Easily reversible. 

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still not happy with the door/frontwing/deck panel alignment.

 

Sometimes the only way forwards is to go back! Front wing was removed to try work out why I could not slide it forward at all. some of the mount holes were elongated.  

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The gap between wing and door is wider now, this gives me a fighting chance of getting the deck to fit and line up

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and after a 3hour marathon it does look better

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panel gaps are now straight and consistent. 100% of the issues were down to the mount holes on the new wing :( now I know etc etc

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On the downside passenger side alignment between deck and door at the top is no longer perfect. Thinking about that. The bonnet hinges now look a lot better though :)

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Fitted up the new closing panel that sits between grill panel and the radiator. fits beautifully.

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This week is going to be all about finishing up missing floor sections and exhaust mounts. 

 

Oh and the main chassis brake line on my daily broke! 26 year old steel brake line, no idea how it broke as it looks clean. That is going to take me a day to replace.

 

Onwards and upwards, never give up, never surrender

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Can only echo the others and my own previous comments……. outstanding work fella. The main reason I don't go into the full restoration objective is I'd lose it and launch that front wing and scuttle panel less than halfway through the 3hr fuckaround you endured/persevered with. I'd have gone fucking nuts!

 

Tis a beauty though…….. you're doing a fine job. All the elbow grease to yer…….

 

Also appreciate the wiring diagramn vid too - really appreciated.

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Awesome stuff once more! :)

 

its a shame the lucas sealed beams had gone to air, I suspect that that the Sealed beams lamps failed because of air leaking in via the electrical contacts at the rear of the bulb, possibly from corrosion from sitting in a damp shed or something?

 

the front part of a sealed beam lamp is flame sealed/melted to the rear half of the lamp during assembly :) (it is on a proper sealed beam lamp anyway!)

 

you can see how they sealed the electrical connections through the glass in this drawing here :)

 

PAR_Seals.JPG

 

"Pale pink is the nitrogen argon atmosphere on the inside. Light blue is the air on the outside. Grey is the borosilicate glass bulb wall. Orange are the Iron-Nickel Cobalt alloy "cup" seals, blue is the internal lead-ins, red is the external lead-ins and dark grey is silver solder."

 

its the "Cup seals" that are the "weak spot" on a sealed beam lamp.

 

hopefully this makes sense! :)

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I posted up episode 14 of the project to yootoob for them what can haz interests

in other news the daily 1993 Vogue has been desperate for attention.

First up, back in March a number of weird electric issues manifested themselves upon making the car slightly less reliable. 

On these newer Classic Range Rovers all electric connections from the battery are on Orange wires, they all go through fusible links which are connected via crimps and then bundled up between the battery and the header tank.

Here they all are disconnected from the battery in the mesh sock

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Later softdash classics and disco2 cars have a nice plastic box with screw in fusible links. so I bought one

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making sure that it had the connectors and some wire for me to play with

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then I cross referenced what each of the orange feeds did on my car with the new fusebox, simples eh.

Then I chomped the loom off, dumped the old fusible sock mess and spliced in the new unit. Since then the electrics have improved in reliability but I may have a sticky relay for the starter solenoid.

Then last Tuesday I nipped down to South Molton in Devonshite for supplies etc. one part of the trip involves a 33% hill, yep a steep un. I was descending met a car coming up and stopped without drama but it was pretty aggressive braking. Short while later the brake warning light came on, I stopped, check the fluid level which was a little low. switched off and restarted and all appeared ok. Carried on into town. on the return trip light came on again, gah followed by abs light , only had 2 miles to go and the brakes were still working so I drove to base and found the brake chassis line had burst!!!

I will do a youtube video with much expletive but end result was every steel brake line being replaced with kunifer, and three out of the four calipers being rebuilt.

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CJAutos Hydraulic ramps make light work of getting 2 tons of arse end into the air.

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once up access to chassis lines is dead easy, no dramas except for finding the fragility of the existing steel plastic coated brake lines, even where they showed no sign of corrosion they could be snapped with very little Yuri Geller action! hence replacing the whole lot.

one rear caliper was fine, the other had a small challenge with the brake line ferrule 

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all manner of heat etc were tried to no avail, with nowt to loose it went cherry red

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did come out but pistons were so badly corroded it would only need new seals and pistons

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fronts were not much better

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anyone who has done the fronts will know what an utter ballsache one metal dust seal is like behind the brake line feeds. (bottom left piston on the piccy below)

I made up this handy tool to make the job 1000% easier having destroyed 6 of then metal dust seal retailers on one flippin piston

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Holy Crap I have a wedge of updates outstanding on the 1972 project.

Do you prefer photo updates, video updates or do not really care?

To catch up on where we are

video update on front drivers wing shenanigans

start up, drive, cooling system and leakage

 

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8 minutes ago, richardthestag said:

Holy Crap I have a wedge of updates outstanding on the 1972 project.

Do you prefer photo updates, video updates or do not really care?

To catch up on where we are

video update on front drivers wing shenanigans

start up, drive, cooling system and leakage

 

watched that when it was uploaded, or there abouts, I usually que your video up then watch it with some food (or my morning/evening hot chocolate) :)

I thoroughly enjoy both forms of updates, but dont feel pressured to do both, if one or the other is easier for you to do then I dont mind either way :)

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watched that when it was uploaded, or there abouts, I usually que your video up then watch it with some food (or my morning/evening hot chocolate) 
I thoroughly enjoy both forms of updates, but dont feel pressured to do both, if one or the other is easier for you to do then I dont mind either way
Seconded!

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

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Now onto the last week, photo update because episode 16 of the yootoob vid is still in editing down from 90 mins plus to a more relevant and 30 mins which is coffee and biscuit length

New core plug fitted to the under side of the inlet manifold. the old one wasn't too bad and a standard 38mm size iirc. the two upper plugs were a disaster zone. Looked up part number, two available, one unobtainium and one available so I ordered without checking. Delivered a couple of days later and completely the wrong size. Land Rover / BL / Austin Rover in their wisdom appear to have been recycling bastard part numbers!!!

Measured crumpled, rusty, distorted old plug and came to 1  1/4 (31.75mm) or 32mm. Found a specialist and thought I had ordered a pair of each. alas a couple of days later and maybe beer but I had only ordered 32mm which predictably was .25mm too big 

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Never mind plenty more to get on within the interim

in durr kators packed up, turned out to be high resistance with a spade in the fuse box, so ripped it apart and unravelled all manner of bodgery which has been unbodged and indicator operation resumed

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fitted rear mud flaps, which are real nice but somewhat irritatingly do not come with the bracket that secures them to the rear outer wing

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fitted rear floor section up

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saw this and thought that Abba song where the two fit lasses are looking at 90degrees to each other. BUT what song video pleases?

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Ripped apart the drivers door to sort lock issue, looks dramatic but maybe 15 mins to remove glass n stuff. 2 hours to get locks how I feel they should be

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Sorted the front drivers wing which was leaning in too far at the front edge which meant that the indicator, headlight pods squeezed the centre gorilla too much.

Must say for an out of the box brand new outer wing from Jaguar LandRover this fucking thing has required a lot of fettling

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Dynamatted up the front end, if you have never used this stuff before I maybe can be persuaded to send you a square inch or so. It is amazing as it cuts out panel drumming and heat insulates, I love it

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Retrieved the old OE headlining from the store, this is it pre TFR treatment

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This is it installed, not perfect, especially at the back end BUT I want to reinstall some patina, history and charm back into the interior. Brand new seats are going in, a mix of new and old floor matting and all original dash. Hope I will achieve a well loved, lived in and patinated interior

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Hold on, there is more.....

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Thanks for feedback chaps

dash pod next, checked all bulbs

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Fitted a new front panel around the instruments which is nice to have reproduced but fucking flaw in the moulding caused the glass to crack.

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Que angry call to supplier 

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End result though looks fine, even though I am not entirely happy with the gap between the front and rear covers of the pod

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This section of the original dash top has been tfr'd

looks the absolute dogs danglies

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correct 1 1/4 plugs fitted to the top of the inlet manifold, cooling system topped up and sealed so I went for a drive up and down the paddock.

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Robbed this beauty of ebay, £20 delivered and it is perfect for my 1970s restoration work, simply does RPM and Dwell but I love it.

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Carb chooning found that the link rod between RH and LH carbs is too long by a long way, and it non adjustable. I have some fittings and have ordered up some

no piccies for some reason but did cover it in episode 16

Drive accessory belts next. I have the wrong front pulley fitted to the engine. Outer pulley for waterpump is too big, inner pulley for PAS is too smoll

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Tried to rob one from a car in the field, the engine turns which is great news, but does still when the car it in gear with handbrake on = destroyed clutch plate probably. so it stayed where it was.

Note outer pulley is smoller than inner pulley! on right is PAS pulley and on Left is Waterpump

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Did rob a smaller Alternator pulley which allows a standard belt to fit existing crank, waterpump and alternator

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old pulley alternator is at the bottom of this stack,

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fitted it and tried it out, alternator still pushes 13.7v at idle so happy days. Pulley now in queue for powder coat. Care is needed to avoid the red blurr at the front of the running engine if a bigger red blurr is to be avoided. Note there is a fan cowl that surrounds it but access to belts etc is more difficult. Elf n' Safty

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Alas new pulley means that Alternator is now on the piss to the waterpump. fixed using washers etc

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PAS belt is somewhat more of a challenge, this is the adjustment arm for the PAS pump, the slot needs to be 2cm longer for the standard RR belt to fit the standard RR pump and nonstandard RR crank pulley. I am currently seeking out the correct crank pulley

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In other news, tailgate has paint! fuck yeah :D

Fitting this on Tuesday when I relocate back to Devonshite

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To be continued next week ..... 

 

Onwards and upwards! Never give up! Never surrender!

Don't let the feckers grind you down :D

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Soon be there Richard and what a journey. The results speak for themselves and I hope it makes it worth all the effort, care and skill you have committed to the project.

I have really enjoyed your videos and updates along the way so thank you for taking the time to share with us. It is another thing to think about on top of all the other challenges you have faced.

Cheers!  :grinning-smiley-043:

Andy

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2 hours ago, colnerov said:

 

 Hi, "Destroyed clutch plate?"  It might be the transfer box is in neutral.?

 Oh, and they're not washers, they're shims.?

 Colin

did check transfer box lever in high and low, unless someone has robbed the diff out of it, I didnt check that!

And yes indeed shims. Love it?

Dads car has the same bracket but with two bends on it. and shims also. I went for shims between alternator and bracket and then bracket and water pump. Looks like it should have always been like that.

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