the door glass frame is up next.
5 or so fixings hold the whole frame into the door shell. Glass comes out at the same time, this frame had rotted badly around the bottom corner of the quarterlight
these quarter light rubbers are unique to the first 2 years of production and are currently unavailable. I need to repair this one and fill that hole. any tips will be gratefully received
the channel at the bottom of the quarterlight hole often rots out, as does the channel which holds the rubber on the left vertical trailing edge in this piccy. this one will respond well and may well end up being powder coated
drivers side bits sorted for stage 2
passenger side bits also found. this one is from a later car (anoraks will note the different quarter light rubber)
I also found that a single profile of steel channel is used throughout the construction of these frames. it is also exactly the same in shape and curvature as a 4 door glass frame which could be used to cut and shut good sections in where there is rust.
The only bit that might be a challenge is the channel that welds onto the quarter light side of the upright nearest the hinge edge of the frame. looks like it might be a right bastard to shape. I have a section of it which is going to the metal benders to see if they can replicate it.
Other bits done while I was in Devon.
A stroll up the field to admire centre of operations and Exmoor
sorted a selection of panels to go to the body shop this week for prep and paint. I have a pair of rear wings, one passenger door and front wing. looks like I will need to dig deep for a new lower tailgate and drivers front wing... ouch
this rear wing came apart easily and on the whole I think is salvageable.
Back at home work carried on
These 4 are the captive plates for the door hinges. they are all the same regardless of location. I have not been able to find a source for them new, though I have yet to be brave enough to ask LR dealer parts counter
cut the excess bolt from both sides of the plate. then drilled centre of each bolt
this stuff is great for maintaining lubrication of the drill bit, aiding the cut and also extending the life of the drill bits. #recommended
The trick is to drill larger and larger holes until the remains simply wind out under the pressure of the drill bit. Because I am going right through the piece I can use standard HSS bits and forward clockwise drill motion.
All but three out of twelve bolts shifted like that ^^. the others I took out as close as I dare and then worked at the remains with a centre punch and hammer until I could run a tap through. Easyout stuff was utterly useless because of the level of corrosion between thread and bolt.
I generally use Bosch or DeWalt hss drills, these on the other hand were utter shit. dulled after one drilling, even with the bestobel compound. #Shit
after a working over in the blast cabinet all are now ready for paint and reuse
Shitroen C4 GP 2007 1.6HDi - Wife's daily written off, farewell trusty but slightly unpredictable steed
Hyundai i10 2010 newbee - Wife's daily
Pug 307 - son's daily runner Sold to Arthur Foxhake
Range Rover Vogue 1993 - my daily runner
Daewoo Matiz 2002 - Sold
Jaguar x308 Sovereign 4 litre - sold to Hooli
Triumph Staaag 1973 - cheaper than a mistress.. just
Range Rover 1972 - ongoing extensive restoration
Range Rover 1972 - complete shed but in line for restoration
Land Rover 1969 SIIa SWB - belongs to Fathathestag but maintained and welded by me
BMW E46 318i touring - sold to hhhugues
VW Polo 2002 1.2l 3 pot bargain for #2 son
Renna Clio Expression+ 16v Barg for #3 son