Jump to content


Welcome to Autoshite

Welcome to Autoshite, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of Autoshite by signing in or creating an account.
  • Start new topics and reply to others
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Customize your experience here
Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
Project

Range Rover resto - 1972 project updates p17

Project

  • Please log in to reply
489 replies to this topic

#481 OFFLINE   richardthestag

richardthestag

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,226 posts
  • 28 thanks
  • LocationBuckinghamshite and Devonshite
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted 13 January 2019 - 04:30 PM

Interestingly (or not!) the high volume pump I installed on my original early cover had slightly taller gears than the OE later setup. Only by a mm or so, so unlikely to make much of a difference but enough to stop me fitting them to the later cover when I changed that!

 

Bt of a tangent but as AS's resident Rover V8 expert, do you know of a UK source of (cheap!) alternative rocker covers apart from the usual Rover types? Not so much to 'dress up' the engine, more to dress it down. I was thinking of fitting a pair of Buick steel covers, mainly just to fox anyone looking under the bonnet!

https://www.ebay.com...rs/192724265476

P76 would do the trick as well but reckon I'd be lucky to find anything over here.

 

I found exactly the same, high"er" volume pump gears are nearly 2mm taller than the big gears. 

 

just means that if you need to replace the gears you need to buy a whole new kit at £90 + vat rather than the big gears for a standard post 76 cover which are nearer £30.

 

Car now has a post 76 cover on it which matches the engine number to save that confusion. I notice that Famous Four are supplying the smoll oil pump gears, might just try a set of those and do away with the adapter plate on the early engine cover.

 

Sorry but I have no idea on alternate rocker covers. I am looking for a set of covers for an early 70s engine so at least it looks the part, round corners and filler 2" or so back from the corner. everything on ebay has been powder coated which I do not want.

 

Also on the search for any engines number starting 355. 


Shitroen C4 GP 2007 1.6HDi - Wife's daily written off, farewell trusty but slightly unpredictable steed

Hyundai i10 2010 newbee - Wife's daily

Pug 307 - son's daily runner Sold to Arthur Foxhake

Range Rover Vogue 1993 - my daily runner

Daewoo Matiz 2002 - Sold

Jaguar x308 Sovereign 4 litre - sold to Hooli

Triumph Staaag 1973 - cheaper than a mistress.. just

Range Rover 1972 - ongoing extensive restoration

Range Rover 1972 - complete shed but in line for restoration

Land Rover 1969 SIIa SWB - belongs to Fathathestag but maintained and welded by me

BMW E46 318i touring - sold to hhhugues

VW Polo 2002 1.2l 3 pot bargain for #2 son

Renna Clio Expression+ 16v Barg for #3 son

 


#482 OFFLINE   mat_the_cat

mat_the_cat

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,940 posts
  • 13 thanks
  • LocationRiding the trough of the fashion wave

Posted 14 January 2019 - 08:30 PM

Sorry but I have no idea on alternate rocker covers. I am looking for a set of covers for an early 70s engine so at least it looks the part, round corners and filler 2" or so back from the corner. everything on ebay has been powder coated which I do not want.

 

No worries, if I ever find some alternatives I will have a set of the early ones surplus to requirements. They seem to confuse some people looking at it anyway "Doesn't look quite like a Rover V8 to me" I have heard!



#483 OFFLINE   richardthestag

richardthestag

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,226 posts
  • 28 thanks
  • LocationBuckinghamshite and Devonshite
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted Yesterday, 01:20 PM

First up I put together another sweary summary of work done so far for them that is interested

 

 

In other news; I finally bit the bullet and got on with the doors.

 

Passenger door that I picked up in the spares deal is a real beauty

 

It is an early door, glass was etched with an L plate reg from a car deceased in the early noughties. 

20190114_094443.jpg

 

Hinge edge is very good

20190114_094451.jpg

 

lock edge is even better

20190114_094458.jpg

 

spent a happy hour removing everything from the door ready for prep and paint

20190114_095713.jpg

 

both hinges had play in them, new are affordable new and the machine screws are always* a complete bastard to remove. So I got busy with the cutting disc.

20190114_112358.jpg

 

half an hour later both hinges and captive plates are free. hinges are scrap, plates and shims will be salvaged

20190114_123226.jpg

 

this kind of stress crack in the outer skin on the bottom hinge is quite common from my experience, no idea why except maybe pressure from the door seal on the outer skin. 

20190114_132518.jpg

 

weld and flat (not yet finished) and this door is done for now

20190114_135000.jpg

 

 


  • John F, Hooli, LightBulbFun and 1 other like this

Shitroen C4 GP 2007 1.6HDi - Wife's daily written off, farewell trusty but slightly unpredictable steed

Hyundai i10 2010 newbee - Wife's daily

Pug 307 - son's daily runner Sold to Arthur Foxhake

Range Rover Vogue 1993 - my daily runner

Daewoo Matiz 2002 - Sold

Jaguar x308 Sovereign 4 litre - sold to Hooli

Triumph Staaag 1973 - cheaper than a mistress.. just

Range Rover 1972 - ongoing extensive restoration

Range Rover 1972 - complete shed but in line for restoration

Land Rover 1969 SIIa SWB - belongs to Fathathestag but maintained and welded by me

BMW E46 318i touring - sold to hhhugues

VW Polo 2002 1.2l 3 pot bargain for #2 son

Renna Clio Expression+ 16v Barg for #3 son

 


#484 OFFLINE   richardthestag

richardthestag

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,226 posts
  • 28 thanks
  • LocationBuckinghamshite and Devonshite
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted Yesterday, 02:25 PM

drivers door next, for some reason drivers doors in good shape are unobtainium. 

 

The original from the project car was properly fucked and also suffered accident damage that had affected skin and shell.

 

Although I have another 5 drivers doors on the project cars I am reluctant to remove any of those but do have a spare which came in the recently acquired spares stash.

 

The glass frame was already out of it, so easy to manoeuvre around.

 

Hinge edge is not pretty but the best I have seen for a while. this area is double skinned. A thin outer skin which is part of the whole single pressing door shell. and a heavy duty angled piece that fits inside the door to give it more strength. 

20190114_145449.jpg

 

door bottom responded positively to my smoll tapping hammer

20190114_145455.jpg

 

lock edge however is in a similar state to the hinge edge. None of the rusty mess seems to go right through both layers of steel

20190114_145501.jpg

 

the door skin is ruined by a couple of nasty dents and an extra hole drilled through next to the lock hole. The return edge all around the inside of the door was also very crusty. These door skins are made from birmabrite (alloy) and are a nightmare to work. generally melt rather than do anything useful.

20190114_145517.jpg

 

so no heart was lost in peeling back the edges of the outer skin to reveal the innards.

 

No surprise to see the extent of surface rust inside. where I could find paint it appeared to be primer. it will be bead blasted back to bare clean steel before the skin goes back on again.

20190114_151415.jpg

 

On the hinge edge I drilled the plethora of spot welds to remove the rusted outer skin

20190115_102523.jpg

 

to reveal an unpainted inner section. moisture can easily get in here and the results of that can be seen here

20190115_102529.jpg

 

5 mins with a cup knot wheel and mr grinder had it looking quite solid. rust was treated with FE123 rust converter from Rust.co.uk. had good results with this product. then coated it with a weld through zinc primer. I will coat the inside of the door with vactan when finished

20190115_103502.jpg

 

looking at the bit I removed from the above door and fishing around the spares reminded me of the rusty and accident damaged door shell that came from the project car. this bit don't look too bad!

20190115_104657.jpg

 

So I cut it off, cleaned up the inside, rust treated and primed it with the same zinc

20190115_114427.jpg

 

then butt welded it into place. Happy days. skim of filler and this will be as good as new.

20190116_135639.jpg

 

Hinge edge will be done next week when I get back down to Devon, will use a similar approach to revove the outer skin section. Repair that on the bench and then butt weld it back into the door shell.

 

 

 


  • Hooli and LightBulbFun like this

Shitroen C4 GP 2007 1.6HDi - Wife's daily written off, farewell trusty but slightly unpredictable steed

Hyundai i10 2010 newbee - Wife's daily

Pug 307 - son's daily runner Sold to Arthur Foxhake

Range Rover Vogue 1993 - my daily runner

Daewoo Matiz 2002 - Sold

Jaguar x308 Sovereign 4 litre - sold to Hooli

Triumph Staaag 1973 - cheaper than a mistress.. just

Range Rover 1972 - ongoing extensive restoration

Range Rover 1972 - complete shed but in line for restoration

Land Rover 1969 SIIa SWB - belongs to Fathathestag but maintained and welded by me

BMW E46 318i touring - sold to hhhugues

VW Polo 2002 1.2l 3 pot bargain for #2 son

Renna Clio Expression+ 16v Barg for #3 son

 


#485 OFFLINE   richardthestag

richardthestag

    Rank: Renault 16

  • Full Members
  • 3,226 posts
  • 28 thanks
  • LocationBuckinghamshite and Devonshite
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted Yesterday, 02:55 PM

the door glass frame is up next.

 

5 or so fixings hold the whole frame into the door shell. Glass comes out at the same time, this frame had rotted badly around the bottom corner of the quarterlight

20190114_095709.jpg

 

these quarter light rubbers are unique to the first 2 years of production and are currently unavailable. I need to repair this one and fill that hole. any tips will be gratefully received

20190114_155624.jpg

 

the channel at the bottom of the quarterlight hole often rots out, as does the channel which holds the rubber on the left vertical trailing edge in this piccy. this one will respond well and may well end up being powder coated

20190114_155641.jpg

 

drivers side bits sorted for stage 2

20190114_160049.jpg

 

passenger side bits also found. this one is from a later car (anoraks will note the different quarter light rubber) 

20190114_160448.jpg

 

I also found that a single profile of steel channel is used throughout the construction of these frames. it is also exactly the same in shape and curvature as a 4 door glass frame which could be used to cut and shut good sections in where there is rust.

 

The only bit that might be a challenge is the channel that welds onto the quarter light side of the upright nearest the hinge edge of the frame. looks like it might be a right bastard to shape. I have a section of it which is going to the metal benders to see if they can replicate it.

 

Other bits done while I was in Devon.

 

A stroll up the field to admire centre of operations and Exmoor

20190114_115249.jpg

 

sorted a selection of panels to go to the body shop this week for prep and paint. I have a pair of rear wings, one passenger door and front wing. looks like I will need to dig deep for a new lower tailgate and drivers front wing... ouch

 

this rear wing came apart easily and on the whole I think is salvageable.

20190116_104140.jpg

 

Back at home work carried on

 

These 4 are the captive plates for the door hinges. they are all the same regardless of location. I have not been able to find a source for them new, though I have yet to be brave enough to ask LR dealer parts counter

20190117_113817.jpg

 

cut the excess bolt from both sides of the plate. then drilled centre of each bolt

20190117_115342.jpg

 

this stuff is great for maintaining lubrication of the drill bit, aiding the cut and also extending the life of the drill bits. #recommended

20190117_115347.jpg

 

The trick is to drill larger and larger holes until the remains simply wind out under the pressure of the drill bit. Because I am going right through the piece I can use standard HSS bits and forward clockwise drill motion.

20190117_120528.jpg

 

All but three out of twelve bolts shifted like that ^^. the others I took out as close as I dare and then worked at the remains with a centre punch and hammer until I could run a tap through. Easyout stuff was utterly useless because of the level of corrosion between thread and bolt. 

20190117_134020.jpg

 

I generally use Bosch or DeWalt hss drills, these on the other hand were utter shit. dulled after one drilling, even with the bestobel compound. #Shit

20190117_134219.jpg

 

after a working over in the blast cabinet all are now ready for paint and reuse

20190117_160803.jpg

 

 


  • mat_the_cat, timolloyd, Hooli and 3 others like this

Shitroen C4 GP 2007 1.6HDi - Wife's daily written off, farewell trusty but slightly unpredictable steed

Hyundai i10 2010 newbee - Wife's daily

Pug 307 - son's daily runner Sold to Arthur Foxhake

Range Rover Vogue 1993 - my daily runner

Daewoo Matiz 2002 - Sold

Jaguar x308 Sovereign 4 litre - sold to Hooli

Triumph Staaag 1973 - cheaper than a mistress.. just

Range Rover 1972 - ongoing extensive restoration

Range Rover 1972 - complete shed but in line for restoration

Land Rover 1969 SIIa SWB - belongs to Fathathestag but maintained and welded by me

BMW E46 318i touring - sold to hhhugues

VW Polo 2002 1.2l 3 pot bargain for #2 son

Renna Clio Expression+ 16v Barg for #3 son

 


#486 ONLINE   Hooli

Hooli

    Rank Outsider

  • Full Members
  • 15,231 posts
  • 188 thanks
  • LocationThe next petrol station
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted Yesterday, 05:40 PM

Impressive work there.

As for the holy rubber, ask a cobbler. I've had the soft rubbery bits on bike boots fixed with a mix of glue and the rubber dust* from grinding replacement soles to shape.

Opinions expressed are those of this cunt, not any other cunt. They do not represent the views of those responsible for this forum.
Like any true Englishman I'm never unintentionally rude. If you're offended by this post, good as that is what was my intention.

 

Champion cunt in the cunt count 2018.


#487 ONLINE   artdjones

artdjones

    Rank: Citroen Ami

  • Full Members
  • 1,081 posts
  • 17 thanks
  • LocationCork
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted Yesterday, 07:39 PM

the door glass frame is up next.

5 or so fixings hold the whole frame into the door shell. Glass comes out at the same time, this frame had rotted badly around the bottom corner of the quarterlight
20190114_095709.jpg

these quarter light rubbers are unique to the first 2 years of production and are currently unavailable. I need to repair this one and fill that hole. any tips will be gratefully received
20190114_155624.jpg

the channel at the bottom of the quarterlight hole often rots out, as does the channel which holds the rubber on the left vertical trailing edge in this piccy. this one will respond well and may well end up being powder coated
20190114_155641.jpg

drivers side bits sorted for stage 2
20190114_160049.jpg

passenger side bits also found. this one is from a later car (anoraks will note the different quarter light rubber)
20190114_160448.jpg

I also found that a single profile of steel channel is used throughout the construction of these frames. it is also exactly the same in shape and curvature as a 4 door glass frame which could be used to cut and shut good sections in where there is rust.

The only bit that might be a challenge is the channel that welds onto the quarter light side of the upright nearest the hinge edge of the frame. looks like it might be a right bastard to shape. I have a section of it which is going to the metal benders to see if they can replicate it.

Other bits done while I was in Devon.

A stroll up the field to admire centre of operations and Exmoor
20190114_115249.jpg

sorted a selection of panels to go to the body shop this week for prep and paint. I have a pair of rear wings, one passenger door and front wing. looks like I will need to dig deep for a new lower tailgate and drivers front wing... ouch

this rear wing came apart easily and on the whole I think is salvageable.
20190116_104140.jpg

Back at home work carried on

These 4 are the captive plates for the door hinges. they are all the same regardless of location. I have not been able to find a source for them new, though I have yet to be brave enough to ask LR dealer parts counter
20190117_113817.jpg

cut the excess bolt from both sides of the plate. then drilled centre of each bolt
20190117_115342.jpg

this stuff is great for maintaining lubrication of the drill bit, aiding the cut and also extending the life of the drill bits. #recommended
20190117_115347.jpg

The trick is to drill larger and larger holes until the remains simply wind out under the pressure of the drill bit. Because I am going right through the piece I can use standard HSS bits and forward clockwise drill motion.
20190117_120528.jpg

All but three out of twelve bolts shifted like that ^^. the others I took out as close as I dare and then worked at the remains with a centre punch and hammer until I could run a tap through. Easyout stuff was utterly useless because of the level of corrosion between thread and bolt.
20190117_134020.jpg

I generally use Bosch or DeWalt hss drills, these on the other hand were utter shit. dulled after one drilling, even with the bestobel compound. #Shit
20190117_134219.jpg

after a working over in the blast cabinet all are now ready for paint and reuse
20190117_160803.jpg


Google Devcon for rubber repair compounds.I think Flexane is the trade name.

#488 OFFLINE   SiC

SiC

    Rank: Talbot Matra Rancho

  • Full Members
  • 10,016 posts
  • 98 thanks
  • LocationBristol
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted Yesterday, 07:50 PM

I'm just catching up on this thread (currently at the start of November). However I noticed this:
post-3439-0-74754700-1539715448.jpg

Same bottle I was using. I've now upgraded to that BOC deal for £60 p/a rent and £40 refill. The bottle works out 5x more gas than those hobbywelds. I'm still on the same refill despite doing a lot of welding recently.

I guess it depends how much welding you are doing on if it's worth it due to the yearly rent. However you can return it earlier and get it prorated back.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#489 OFFLINE   Tayne

Tayne

    Rank: Talbot Tagora

  • Full Members
  • 13,138 posts
  • 164 thanks
  • LocationThe Granite City of Aberdeen
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted Yesterday, 08:42 PM

Gummifledge is a brilliant rubber conditioner which extends the life of door seals and helps prevent them freezing up.

It always amuses me that e46s vie with the PT Cruiser as the car that's too shit for Autoshite, 

 

 


#490 OFFLINE   somewhatfoolish

somewhatfoolish

    Deputy Vice-Pomfrite of the Titicacan Legation

  • Full Members
  • 2,283 posts
  • 30 thanks
  • LocationArgyll&Buteshire
  • Country : Country Flag

Posted Yesterday, 10:10 PM

these quarter light rubbers are unique to the first 2 years of production and are currently unavailable. I need to repair this one and fill that hole. any tips will be gratefully received
attachicon.gif20190114_155624.jpg

Maybe try Sugru? Failing that perhaps blobbing sikaflex(other polyurethane adhesive/sealants are available) into the voids and smoothing off artistically with a finger.

These 4 are the captive plates for the door hinges. they are all the same regardless of location. I have not been able to find a source for them new, though I have yet to be brave enough to ask LR dealer parts counter
attachicon.gif20190117_113817.jpg

Given the number of these you're doing it might be worth thinking about making a jig, then you can just wang it under a pillar drill and get the remains of the screws out quick smart.

post-9424-0-06631200-1530529320.jpg






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Project

1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users