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For Sale

SiC's Silver Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector - Roffle now on! £5 each

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#481 OFFLINE   Supernaut

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Posted 22 December 2016 - 12:56 PM

I've not been keeping up with this, but... is the gearbox still dodgy?
Current fleet:
2000 Citroen Xantia HDi SX - Shabby spaceship.
1995 BMW 316i - The Bavarian Misery Wagon, co-operative project with 17-Coffees.
 
Possible future addition (very slow progress):
2000 Honda Civic Aerodeck - The Wolf


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#482 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 22 December 2016 - 09:04 PM

I've not been keeping up with this, but... is the gearbox still dodgy?

Good question! Let's do the full run down.

Good bits:
  • Its a turbo petrol big Saab.
  • Mega comfy and adjustable seats - as a Saab should.
  • Quick. Not lightening quick like an Aero, but does shift very well.
  • Huge boot.
  • Isofix seat fixing in the rear.
  • All mod cons work - like all 4 electric windows, climate control, ABS+ESP, electric mirrors, cruise control, CD player (and tape!), remote central locking.
  • Aircon works.
  • Chain driven, no cambelt.
  • 2 Keys.
  • MOT until October 2017.
  • Pads look in good nick.
  • No visible rust underneath. Rear side panel below the fuel filler flap has a graze on and very slight rusting to it. Not very visible.
  • Loads of paperwork covering pretty much everything for the last 5 years. The guy who owned it before was a colleague who is a contractor. Every week he commuted back and forth from Cambridge to Bristol/Swindon/Southampton/other places. Because of this, every and anything needed doing got done - e.g. brake pads are newish+master cylinder+coil pack+etc.
  • No outstanding finance.

Bits I've Fixed:
  • Gearbox oil flushed through
  • Gearbox computer updated
  • Oil+Filter change
  • Coolant change
  • Gearbox mount replaced
  • Front left ABS sensor ring replaced.
  • Interior fan motor replaced
  • 2 new rear tyres.
  • Cleaned ignition barrel (fixed the remote central locking).

Bits you should know about:
  • Front tyres are legal, but only have like 3-4mm tread left. These are however expensive and decent Pirelli P-Zeros.
  • I broke the ashtray cover trying to figure out how to open it (tip - its push, not pull). All the bits are still there, but would need gluing together.
  • Just about 210k miles. But fighting fit!
  • Has a oil leak. Actually not that bad. About 0.4l per 1000miles - no worse than a lot of engines with no oil leak. Plus oil for this is cheap (GM spec 5w-30) - last bottle of 5l I paid £15 from Asda.
  • Interior fan works but still is a bit anaemic. Enough to clear the windscreen and keep you warm though. Just not a hurricane like Saabs usually are.
  • Fan belt slips when cold. I ignore it. Adds to the charm*.

So that leaves the big one to go into a bit more depth - that gearbox. Yes its still not perfect, however its massively better. So much so, even me who can't stand problems with cars happily drive it as is.

Whats the problem? When warm and sat in traffic, shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd bumps/bangs/slips into gear occasionally. Originally it banged into gear really, really hard. Now it usually slips a bit instead, with the very occasional bang. The gearbox is by design supposed to slip into gears, just it does it a bit more now. Again, this is only when warm and if you've sat around for a bit.

How/why is it better? A couple of things I think. Firstly new fluid helped hugely. Secondly the Lucas Stop-Slip may have helped. Thirdly, now I know when its going to do it (about 6-10 miles after the engine is fully up to temp, stationary for a bit and when you start get a few light bump gear changes), I am just lighter on the accelerator (i.e. mechanical sympathy, instead of hooning it). Finally, the biggest thing that made a difference was the Gearbox computer update. This changed the bangs into more of a prolonged slip instead. Also reduced the frequency of the occurrence.

What is the complete solution/fix? Almost certainly this problem seems (from online literature - very common problem on this box) to be from the valve body. Replacing the valve body should solve this. Hence the second-hand valve body is included. Unlike Volvos + Nissans with the same gearbox, this is relatively straight forward to change with no sub-frame dropping, etc.

Why haven't I done it? Haven't had the time or enthusiasm yet and its too easy to ignore it... Depending on what the wife has planned for me over the Xmas break, I may do half a day at the local rent-a-ramp place and get it done.
  • mrbenn likes this
  • 2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner.
  • 2005 Renault Laguna V6 Initiale - The surprising reliable runner and wolf in sheep's clothing.
  • 2005 Saab 9-5 Vector - The [gearbox] banger.

#483 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 24 December 2016 - 12:12 AM

What's going on here?? Not another fix it session is it?!
IMG_20161223_184919.jpg

The anemic fan has been seriously peeing me off and had to be fixed. Speaking to the previous owner today, he said that it's always been pretty weak compared to his other Saabs.

This reassured me that it must be possible to get it to do better. As the fan has been replaced, the only things left that could be causing issues is the earth, Climate Control unit or the Fan Controller. I first checked the earth. This is behind the CD player on the right hand side of a big tube that is part of the cars chassis. I undid the bolt and gave a good scrub with sandpaper. Made no difference.

I next consulted the workshop manual. The Climate Control screen puts out 0v to 5v signal depending on fan speed. Probing with a multimeter got exact that on the revelant pins when varying the fan speed.

This left the fan speed controller. This lives at the back of the passenger footwell once you unscrew the glovebox. Nice and easy to get to - compared to LHD cars where the steering gubbins is all in the way. Unfortunately to completely remove it, it requires disconnecting it from the fan. After removing and replacing the fan a good 4 times, I really cba to do that again - especially as it requires removing wipers and many bits of plastic shielding on the bulkhead. So I decided to dismantle the controller in-situ. If you do this, remember to either remove the fan fuse or unplug the connector at the top, as the cooling fins on it are +12v and shorting against the car body will create a short. They helpfully put a warning label on the back of the fan controller warning you of this!

Disassembling it (2x T10 torx bolts for cover, 1x T10 torx bolt for heatsink) presented me with this:
IMG_20161223_185314.jpg
IMG_20161223_184927.jpg

Going by the flux residue, it looks like someone has been in this before. I can't believe it would leave the factory looking like that. I reckon a remanufacturing company replaced the transistor at some point. I scraped away some of the flux (it can conduct electricity) and tried the fan again. Result! Got a proper blast of air out.

As the solder joints looked a bit shit (looks like lead-free assembly but not enough heat used when resoldering done), I decided to resolder it using leaded solder. Interesting side note, leaded solder is less harmful to the person soldering than lead-free solder. Lead solder puts out very little lead fumes - most of it is flux fumes. Lead-free flux is far more toxic as it needs to handle higher temps. As it was an enclosed area, due to not removing the controller from the car, it was better for my health to use leaded solder!

First attempt was with this gas soldering iron. IMG_20161223_210003.jpg

What a load of shit this was. Took a good few minutes to heat up the tip, and putting it against a solder joint made it loose all it's residue heat almost instantly. Enough to stop the solder melting.

So decided to crack out the proper hot stick IMG_20161223_191020.jpg

A decent soldering iron is one of those tools that is joyous thing to use. A decent one will heat up in less than 30 seconds, hold their heat and really capable of chucking in heat without temperature dropping. Once you've used a decent one, you'll never want to go back to shit ones. You suddenly turn from a crap solderer to a really good one, just by using a decent tool. Needless to say I managed to resolder + reflow all the main joints in less than 5 minutes with this.

I cleaned off the heatsink paste and replaced it with some fresh* stuff. Bolted it all back together and did another test.

It's now exactly how I expected a Saab interior fan to be. Hurricane force! Also very nice that it heats the cabin so much quicker now. :)

The other issue I am having is that I'm beginning to relike the damn thing! :?
Saabs really have a habit of doing this to you. Especially as you get more of it the fixed.

Oh and it repaid me for fixing it's blower by blowing the front right dipped headlight bulb on startup...
  • loserone, Skizzer, TerryWogan and 4 others like this
  • 2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner.
  • 2005 Renault Laguna V6 Initiale - The surprising reliable runner and wolf in sheep's clothing.
  • 2005 Saab 9-5 Vector - The [gearbox] banger.

#484 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 10:59 AM

I've put in an extra 400 or so miles in this over the Christmas period and I have to say I'm quite pleased the roffle hasn't completed as I'm getting quite a bit of enjoyment driving this around. It's a bit like old square Volvos in that if you're bobbing along and come up to a single pass through road, you are more often than not let through. The first car that I've driven too that Range Rovers yield too!
  • 2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner.
  • 2005 Renault Laguna V6 Initiale - The surprising reliable runner and wolf in sheep's clothing.
  • 2005 Saab 9-5 Vector - The [gearbox] banger.

#485 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 11:08 AM

Oh and I have also found the perfect method of making it wife friendly when it's banging into gear. Quite simple, when in full-auto you simply lift off when it's about to change gear or drive it in manual padle shift mode (yes it has padle shifters!), you lift off, push the shifter, wait for it to change and then carry on accelerating. Doing this I didn't even get a single tutt of disapproval from the other half. :D

Incidentally I see it as great way to practice for the eventual replacement of this (when I find one reasonably priced for sale), as this is the recommended way to change gear in a Smart Roadster.

Is this not just another excuse to not fix that sodding Gearbox properly?

Well maybe yes. I am though quite enjoying driving a car that requires a bit of thought and skill to drive smoothly and requires far more mechanical sympathy than my others. Also the weather is still far too shite to be spannering outside in. :)
  • 2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner.
  • 2005 Renault Laguna V6 Initiale - The surprising reliable runner and wolf in sheep's clothing.
  • 2005 Saab 9-5 Vector - The [gearbox] banger.

#486 OFFLINE   Sloth in a bowl

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 03:19 PM

Give me 2 randoms on the roffle please. Always wanted a big SAAB since my sister had an old 9000.


Future Shite - 2014 Skoda Octavia VRS

Past Shite - 1974 Datsun 260Z

Track Shite - 2000 Ford Puma

 

Previously owned shite

84 Fiat Uno

94 Renault Laguna Mk1

02 Volvo V40

99 The Scotoshite Kia/Volvo Pride

 


#487 OFFLINE   user1979

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 07:43 PM

Pm sent





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