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XUD comments please!


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18 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   chester drawers

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 08:33 PM

With my shite away awaiting some well deserved paint, the modern has decided now would be a highly appropriate time to kipper its turbo. No car for at least a week then :roll: So, short-term shite complete with tax & test would seem to be in order. Weekend might see me having a shufty at this: http://search.autotr...r=&max_mileage= Comments from XUD types would be much appreciated!

#2 OFFLINE   bigstraight6

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 08:41 PM

Great smoker there Chester, just make sure it isn't running warm which would point to a suspect head gasket, and if it hasn't been done, change the cambelt AND all the associated rollers/tensioners which you can get in a cambelt kit :wink: The XUD is an excellent engine, I've owned two XUD powered 306's which were excellent, and the only problem I experienced was a cambelt failure which wrecked the engine of one, good luck :D
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#3 OFFLINE   chester drawers

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 08:54 PM

Great smoker there Chester, just make sure it isn't running warm which would point to a suspect head gasket, and if it hasn't been done, change the cambelt AND all the associated rollers/tensioners which you can get in a cambelt kit :wink:

Thanks for that, comments duly noted. A couple of mates have run these & they seem to be quite dependable shite :)

#4 Guest__*

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 09:12 PM

I have owned and had company xud powered pugs 1.7 and 1905cc types and only one breakdown in a few hundred thousand miles. And yes that was the cambelt. I Say go for it :D

#5 Guest_greenvanman_*

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 09:41 PM

Mrs GVM has had a '95 306XLD for the last seven years and refuses to part with it. It's got 195000 miles up and is, like Sgt. Bash, seemingly invincible. It rattles for France and bits do drop off occasionally, but it steadfastly refuses to die.

#6 OFFLINE   bigstraight6

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 10:21 PM

Old Father BS6 has a 1994 vintage Peugeot 405 non-turbot XUD with a mere 110,000 miles on it which I picked up for him about 6 years ago, and has required nothing but a 6 monthly service in this time....
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#7 OFFLINE   Dead_E23

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 10:28 PM

Do check for pressure in the cooling system, because they sometimes crack their cylinder heads. Swmbo's BX did that at around 100k, and changing it turned out to be a real mission - it seemed like the whole car had been built around it. That apart, XUDs are supposed to be good for 300k. The replacement head had done 200k and was still in very good shape.(I subseqently found out that the BX wasn't built around its cylinder head at all. At the very heart of the BX is the 'octopus', where all the hydraulic return pipes come together. It lies sandwiched between the bulkhead and the front subframe and unless you're Mr Tickle it's completely inaccessible. Mine was always leaking).

#8 OFFLINE   chester drawers

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 11:00 PM

All helpful stuff. Thank you gentlemen.

#9 OFFLINE   MrGav

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 11:02 PM

Argh! Don't mention octopuses! What a filthy job they are to change! Thankfully, i don't have many of them to do anymore.

As for the XUD lumps, i rate them big stylee! I've got a 'low mileage' 405 estate/van/hack with only 150k on the clock, engine is brilliant, it's just the trim thats falling off!

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#10 Guest_greenvanman_*

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 11:09 PM

^^^^^That is fantastic!

#11 OFFLINE   Dead_E23

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Posted 05 December 2007 - 11:19 PM

Argh! Don't mention octopuses! What a filthy job they are to change! Thankfully, i don't have many of them to do anymore.

What's the trick, MrGav - keyhole surgery? I couldn't see how it would ever be possible to get all the pipes back into the nasty slimey thing once it had been dragged out of its hole!

#12 OFFLINE   stoterstangen90

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 12:18 AM

Argh! Don't mention octopuses! What a filthy job they are to change! Thankfully, i don't have many of them to do anymore.

What's the trick, MrGav - keyhole surgery? I couldn't see how it would ever be possible to get all the pipes back into the nasty slimey thing once it had been dragged out of its hole!

mine broke just before leaving on hollydays.....
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#13 OFFLINE   jonkw

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 09:03 AM

The 306 Turbo D, couple of issues to check:Check that the heater matrix isn't leaking (a common problem) by checking for damp around the centre console and passenger side front carpet. If its leaking, its a dash out nightmare, and theres so much labour involved, many cars have got scrapped as its uneconomic.Check the rad gets hot all over, they tend to block causing HG failure. Last thing on the 306 are the fabled rear subframe mounts, these are supposed to give a limited degree of rear steering, but tend to break up and wear. To test, drive slowly along and pull up the handbrake a few times, if you hear clonking, its usually a sign that the bushes are shot.BX Octopus? Fiddly but do-able.....I tend to remove the o/s driveshaft, then the job is OK (but still dirty!)
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#14 OFFLINE   Timewaster

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 09:17 AM

MrGav, That 405 is almost perfect!!If only the replacement doors were different colours you could create a 405 Break Harlequin! 8)I had a shiney newish Mi16 back in the day. T-cutting it every month to try and keep all the pannels the same colour and endlessly buying / glueing / stoping to pick up bits of trim was a royal pain. :roll:Now like all old french cars, once they look scruffy and all the plastic bits have fallen off the remaining bits will go on forever.
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#15 OFFLINE   r.welfare

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 06:57 PM

My 405 wagon looks like that, but only the rear doors are non-matching.Sometimes coolant-related issues are down to airlocks, the radiator fill is at a low point in the system (thermostat is higher due to engine tilt) and they don't have proper header tanks. My wagon pushed out lots of coolant, no heat from the heater, crazy temp gauge action etc when I got it - a good flush through then a cutdown Evian 1.5ltr bottle jammed in the rad filler as a header, holding it at 1500rpm until the fan cut in 3 times, seems to have solved the problem. It bubbled like a bastard with loads of pressure from the rad cap before, but now there's hardly any.So open the rad cap after a run, there should only be a very small hiss. Also, watch the temp gauge - it should go up to about 85 then drop to 75 (83 degree thermostat), if it goes above 90 the fan should cut in. They don't all do this because the loom wiring to the fan is easily buggered.My two XUD9TE 405's have a mere 433k on the clocks between them :lol:

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#16 OFFLINE   Milford Cubicle

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 07:42 PM

How crud/non-crud is the non-turbo XUD in larger cars like the Xantia, 405, BX etc?I seem to remember it being 'nearly dangerously slow' in my Rover 218D.

#17 OFFLINE   Marty

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 07:52 PM

Always found the 1.9TD quite rapid (once the turbot spins up - about 1700RPM), the 2.1TD in Pugs (and some Xantias) can be a bit frail and a sod to work on, but the XU9D is quite good.Head gaskets tend to fail due to neglect of the cooling system. Timing belts at 60K to be safe and bugger all else on them gives up readily really.

#18 OFFLINE   MrRegieRitmo

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Posted 08 December 2007 - 05:24 PM

unless you're Mr Tickle it's completely inaccessible.

Mr Tickle or Mr Bickle? :lol:

#19 Guest_greenvanman_*

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Posted 08 December 2007 - 05:45 PM

How crud/non-crud is the non-turbo XUD in larger cars like the Xantia, 405, BX etc?I seem to remember it being 'nearly dangerously slow' in my Rover 218D.

Well, I'd describe progress in Mrs GVM's 306 as 'sedate', so I can't imagine its any better in a 405 estate or something of that order.




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