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Memoirs: Granvia Seat is Fucking Fucked Mate. Help!

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1464 replies to this topic

#1441 ONLINE   BorniteIdentity

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 05:57 AM

You were quite hard on the accelerator on a cold and a not recently run engine though! :?

 

You wouldn't enjoy the road test video then.


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1999 Toyota Avensis SR.  243k|   1996 Toyota Granvia.  186k|   1989 Mercedes Benz 190 bASe.  97k|   1984 Austin Mini.  58k|   1983 Ford Sierra bASe.  154k|


#1442 ONLINE   BorniteIdentity

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Posted 13 February 2019 - 12:06 PM

A question if I may.

I need to replace the two flasher units under the bonnet. They’re both rusty AF, one has a broken pin and atm I’ve got no hazards or indicators.

OEM Lucas flashers are £5.

However, nobody seems to list the base for one of these. Seeing as they’re rusted to fuck, and one has a pin stuck in it, I was hoping to replace these too - rather than just buy the flashers, discover I’ve still no lights and then have further delay.

Any tips? It’s a 1984 Mini so 2 pin flashers.

1999 Toyota Avensis SR.  243k|   1996 Toyota Granvia.  186k|   1989 Mercedes Benz 190 bASe.  97k|   1984 Austin Mini.  58k|   1983 Ford Sierra bASe.  154k|


#1443 OFFLINE   Ben_O

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Posted 13 February 2019 - 12:35 PM

Is it the type that plugs onto a black plastic connector that slides over a screw head on the bulkhead?



#1444 ONLINE   Rusty_Rocket

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Posted 13 February 2019 - 02:59 PM

If they're really bad, I usually cut the old plug off and crimp female spade connectors onto the wires.  Then the flasher unit plugs straight in.  Not for the concourse restoration but otherwise fine (and it's all hidden behind the manky sound deadening foam anyway!)


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#1445 ONLINE   alf892

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 08:18 PM

Yeah the A-series in my 1100 started absolutely sweetly on the first turn of the key. Way better than the B-series my MGB which takes a fair bit of cranking and a dance with the throttle + choke - something that many b-series seem to require.

You were quite hard on the accelerator on a cold and a not recently run engine though! :?

 

Good point ! but Mr B had had spent quite some time spinning it over on the starter by the time it ran...…..and the oil is surprisingly clean. In fact it does look like it was well looked after (mechanically anyway)before being laid up. Everywhere is well greased and even the handbrake quadrant are free.

 

In fact all work required is due to being stood really......and rust of course!

 

Its a nice car...……….


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#1446 ONLINE   Zelandeth

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Posted 15 February 2019 - 06:28 AM

Guess it does show that being really unlikely doesn't necessarily mean impossible.

I don't know why, but I still keep a tiny hope alive that my first proper car, a very early Snapdragon Yellow MiniMetro HLE, NSA240W will suddenly reappear somewhere. Sold it in 2004-ish and it promptly disappeared without trace - have always assumed for scrap despite being a clean example. Still kick myself for selling it, and know I'll never manage to get another as prices have gone mental now.

If I found it though...yeah, I'd struggle to justify not buying it!

She was one that really liked to run on - had to stall it on quite a few warm afternoons after a long run.

I've still never even driven an original Mini though somehow!
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#1447 OFFLINE   Nyphur

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Posted 15 February 2019 - 03:19 PM

Only just fully caught up with all this, but got the gist after seeing the BBC article. 

Excellent story thus far, keep up the good work.


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#1448 ONLINE   BorniteIdentity

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:27 PM

The piggy bank is empty. By that, I mean completely devoid of funds. Even next door’s cat took one look at our fridge and promptly buggered off back home again. That said, the key to making progress with this little Mini is ‘little and often’. Whenever I find myself with a spare 30 minutes or whatever I do try to achieve something - no matter how modest.

Today it was bath time. She hasn’t been washed in, I would guess, 15 years. It’s going to take a few good scrubs to bring the decent panels up to scratch, so we gave the whole car a quick dip, and then I focused in on the roof.

c8ed5a807c6bc5bfced9c0db2968ade3.jpg

A cliché I know, but you forget how small these are. They really take no time at all. Within an hour we had the car washed (a bit), dried, and polished (partially).

I bought this polisher last year to aid the sale of a rather pink Audi 80 I briefly owned. It did a great job on that, so I thought I’d start with the roof of the Mini and see if we couldn’t drum up another miracle. I held out no hope, because “he who doesn’t aim, doesn’t miss”.

But look!

137fd3a96ed0263abdcce7f5a96ff317.jpg

02eda71ecf32ca3d8e2c2050617ecfeb.jpg

fc782afa7f5a1b6349fc98b4e0340f36.jpg

09c0eec9518c5e0b956726b10cb8dee3.jpg

I’m absolutely delighted. I know there are some members who’d keep it absolutely as it is, but I do like to be reasonably proud of my cars. There will still be plenty of rust, pitting and filler on the car for years yet - but what I can do, I will.


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1999 Toyota Avensis SR.  243k|   1996 Toyota Granvia.  186k|   1989 Mercedes Benz 190 bASe.  97k|   1984 Austin Mini.  58k|   1983 Ford Sierra bASe.  154k|


#1449 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:31 PM

How far is the nearest garage that does MOTs? Wondering if its worth bunging it in for a test to see what needs doing. Providing it starts and stops ok right now.
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#1450 ONLINE   BorniteIdentity

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:36 PM

How far is the nearest garage that does MOTs? Wondering if its worth bunging it in for a test to see what needs doing. Providing it starts and stops ok right now.


3 miles. I nipped in there today with the keys to my wife’s Fiat 500 which is being tested tomorrow.

Things that will need to be done before even attempting are:

1. Brakes. Nothing on the foot pedal at all. Master Cylinder to be ordered on payday unless I can convince Mini-Spares to give me an account through my own limited company.

2. Hazards and Indicators dead. Suspect broken flasher units and relay bases.

3. Number plates. Probably need a set made for tests, until I can get some dealer replicas made.

4. Sill isn’t brilliantly attached. If that’s all that’s remaining then I might ask him to test it before I take it to the welder in case anything else shows up.

Other than that it’s a lot of minor stuff like flexi hoses being perished and tyres that are plastic. Likely pass/advise but would want them doing anyway.
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1999 Toyota Avensis SR.  243k|   1996 Toyota Granvia.  186k|   1989 Mercedes Benz 190 bASe.  97k|   1984 Austin Mini.  58k|   1983 Ford Sierra bASe.  154k|


#1451 ONLINE   Mally

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:40 PM

Drat I was just going to write most of that!

CV boot, front to rear brake pipe, top and/or bottom ball joint?


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#1452 ONLINE   BorniteIdentity

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:43 PM

Alf892 was inspecting the undercarriage whilst I was at the motor spares place, but from memory he said the actual brake pipes were sound.

Another thing I want to do is replace the fuel line front to back too.
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1999 Toyota Avensis SR.  243k|   1996 Toyota Granvia.  186k|   1989 Mercedes Benz 190 bASe.  97k|   1984 Austin Mini.  58k|   1983 Ford Sierra bASe.  154k|


#1453 OFFLINE   Ben_O

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:48 PM

 unless I can convince Mini-Spares to give me an account through my own limited company.
 

I use Minispares for a lot of my stuff (I run a classic car restoration workshop specializing in Mini's) and the best they can do is a 10% trade discount. Not a hope of an account sadly.

 

that roof came up nicely!


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#1454 ONLINE   Zelandeth

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Posted Yesterday, 02:29 AM

Alf892 was inspecting the undercarriage whilst I was at the motor spares place, but from memory he said the actual brake pipes were sound.

Another thing I want to do is replace the fuel line front to back too.


Given the experiences I've had in the last few years with fuel lines I'd suggest ordering in some A1 Marine rated fuel hose for this... especially as I recall the fuel line runs quite close to the exhaust manifold. Aside from being ethanol resistant, the A1 hose is a lot more head and abrasion resistant too, and with a bit of luck should last a good long while.
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#1455 ONLINE   Angrydicky

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Posted Yesterday, 07:00 AM

You could always strip, clean and reseal the master cylinder depending on the condition of the bore. A seal kit is a fraction of the cost of a new cylinder. Worth a try?
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#1456 ONLINE   alf892

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Posted Yesterday, 09:00 PM

Drat I was just going to write most of that!
CV boot, front to rear brake pipe, top and/or bottom ball joint?


Brake pipes are amazingly good........needs a set of wheel cylinders though so care needed to free off the pipe nut from the actual pipe when doing those.

All front ball joints also good. Track rod ends buggered and steering rack boots turning to dust.

CV boots good at moment....may fail once it gets driven though.

I suggested new brake master for reliability really as not expensive.......all flexis are buggered so intention is to fully rebuild the brakes with new linings as well. I like being able to stop.
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#1457 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted Yesterday, 10:48 PM

What was it Issigonis said?  You don't need brakes in a Mini, as they handle so well that any reasonably competent driver will be able to steer around any obstacles, or words to that effect.


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#1458 ONLINE   Rusty_Rocket

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Posted Yesterday, 11:21 PM

Minispares is my supplier of choice.  They are the best all-rounders IMO.

 

To get a discount of 7.5%, join the Mini Forum for £5.  It will save you plenty.

 

Regarding brake master cylinders, you'll almost certainly need a complete new one, every single dual circuit one I've ever dismantled has a rusted bore.

Take a gander at the master currently installed on the car.  If it has a yellow tag around it, it's had the replacement item that supersedes all previous ones.  This is good.  If you still have the original black or green tag one, you'll have to fit a new yellow tagged part but also the brake pipes need to be switched around.  *Soz if you already know this*  Many people 'back int day' plumbed in the new cylinder the same way as the old one... which results in the majority of braking to go to the rear wheels instead of the fronts :D


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#1459 ONLINE   Rusty_Rocket

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Posted Yesterday, 11:26 PM

46225605425_143f6ffd98_b.jpggmc227 by David James, on Flickr


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#1460 ONLINE   BorniteIdentity

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Posted Today, 09:52 AM

Hey Gang
 
Minor drama yesterday. My wife drove the Chucklebus™ to the garage yesterday to pick up her own car from having an MOT. When I went to put the seat back in order to...you know... actually fit... bad things happened. A cloud of acrid smoke came from under the seat. Having evacuated the wagon of all occupants, I quickly deduced it wasn't actually ON FIRE but that a motor had probably burnt out on the power chair. It will go forward fine enough, but backwards it twists and then stops. You need to be Jimmy Krankie to actually fit in it now.
 
I left it with the garage who took it apart. The motor is fine (i assumed there were two as it works on one side) and the shaft spins but it's not turning the gear that moves the other side.
 
Easiest solution would be to find another seat, although the breakers all listing on ebay don't have a driver's chair.
 
Would a Hiace one fit? It'd look shite, but at least i could drive it. Or would it be possible to modify it for a manual chair?
 
IMG_0046.jpeg

1999 Toyota Avensis SR.  243k|   1996 Toyota Granvia.  186k|   1989 Mercedes Benz 190 bASe.  97k|   1984 Austin Mini.  58k|   1983 Ford Sierra bASe.  154k|


#1461 OFFLINE   paulscavalier

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Posted Today, 12:27 PM

Could possibly be modded by getting a manual base and swapping bits over. I imagine the factory holes in the floor would be similar.
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#1462 OFFLINE   JimH

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Posted Today, 03:22 PM

2. Hazards and Indicators dead. Suspect broken flasher units and relay bases.

 

I spent a while trying to find a fault in my Mini's indicators. Turns out that the flasher unit sits under the bonnet in a little clip fixed to the bulkhead. A few years previously BL had gone through a much trumpeted NVH improvement programme which in the case of the Mini had meant gobbing a little foam pad onto the bulkhead. This meant that the top of the flasher unit now pressed against a foam pad which held water bewteen it and the relay. Fast forward a few years and eventually the body of the relay rots through and the whole thing gives up the ghost. It's ony when you pull the relay out of its clip that you find half of it is missing.


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#1463 OFFLINE   Timewaster

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Posted Today, 06:05 PM

On the seat, I'd guess either something has come off a runner or there is a foreign object in the mech.

Is a worthers original solid enough to stop a chair motor?
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#1464 ONLINE   colc

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Posted Today, 06:10 PM

What was it Issigonis said?  You don't need brakes in a Mini, as they handle so well that any reasonably competent driver will be able to steer around any obstacles, or words to that effect.

 

 

Issigonis was brilliant............and an absolute knob at the same time......his complete disdain for the poor sods who bought cars designed by him is well documented......


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#1465 ONLINE   Christine

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Posted Today, 06:12 PM

A 20p


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