Project Memoirs from the Hard Shoulder: bASeman's Spot of the Year award.

[barmatt]

Just got sent this my a mate. 

 

[BorniteIdentity]

Just got sent this my a mate. 

 

 

I just hovered around a telly too at lunchtime.  They were showing brief bits this morning as well as a short piece at lunch - so whether or not they run the whole thing tonight or it's "done" I dunno.  I reckon, if it IS on, it'll be the "and finally" so about 1820 in the Anglican TV region(!)

[Craig the Princess]

Just seen the trailer at the start of the itv Anglia regional news so you'll be on shortly.

[Lacquer Peel]

Slow news day, everywhere?

[Parky]

Actually have you tried bump starting it?

 

Edit - can’t remember if the clutch is working so this idea might not be a goer!

[Rusty_Rocket]

Remove the grille and locate the back of the starter motor.  There may be a small plastic cap covering the back of the motor shaft that you can put a spanner on to see of the motor will turn at all.  If that's free, check the cable betwixt solenoid and starter.  The click you can hear means the solenoid is doing what it should (probably!)

 

Like wot Parky says, does the engine turn?  Remove the plugs and drag the car forwards (or dry hump it from the rear ) and see if it turns over.  You may find the alternator/ water pump/ belt is all seized solid stopping turnyoverness.

[SiC]

Slow news day, everywhere?

I guess people are finding it more interested than the latest bollocks on [CENSORED]

[BorniteIdentity]

Slow news day, everywhere?

It was just a bit of fun. Sorry man.

[PhilA]

So, take the plugs out, stick it in 4th and give it a hefty shove to see if the engine turns over?

 

Nice to see a bit of happy news in the media, even if it is only an anecdote.

 

After all it's an A series. Just bash it with a hammer until it runs.

 

Phil

[BorniteIdentity]

Update time (I’ll keep it brief for fear of annoying anyone)

 

Alf892 came over in his swanky Jag to aid resuscitation of the Mini. Prior to this, I bought a brand new 063 battery (aimed fairly at the Peugeot Diesel market) for added grunt and connected it up. It’d spin like mad, but not fire. I was still convinced there wasn’t enough fuel in the car, so chucked 10l in and tried again. Nothing. Up to this point, I’d remained uncharacteristically patient, but enough. I tipped a bit of petrol down the air box and gave it a spin.

 

https://twitter.com/danielfoxfm/status/1094701936367026176?s=21

 

Result.

 

Sadly, my method of dealing with stale fuel (diluting it) failed so I sucked it off with the Pela. It was brown. Whilst I discovered this at the rear, Alf freed off the stuck float valve and carburettor piston, cleaned everything up and even lubed up too. To say it went well is an understatement, it now starts faster than any of my cars!

 

https://twitter.com/danielfoxfm/status/1094245095925260291?s=21

 

Alf also cleaned up the main jet so the choke also now operates. Turn key status has been achieved!

 

Next up was the clutch. There’s a theme forming here; Everything has just got stuck. The Slave cylinder had seized. It was off very quickly, soaked with spray oil and then sensitively persuaded with a hammer. Bore and pump piston cleaned, it was refitted and bled. It now works very well indeed, with just the linkages needing a bit of grease as reverse is particularly stiff.

 

A huge sledge hammer was aimed at the front wheels and the inevitable then had to happen. I’m afraid to say you’ll have to trust me when I say the car...err... goes very well.

 

There’s still a fair bit to do. An examination of the undercarriage brought generally positive results - a little tickle to the sills is necessary and there’s no underside to the scuttle panel either. That’s said, not much preventing an MOT either.

 

Other issues are trivial and I think I’ll enjoy doing the jobs. I need to replace a couple of relays as I’ve no indicators or hazard lights. The water pump is working well but it does sound a bit rough. That said, I’ll be only too pleased to fit a pump that costs £15 new! So, as I say I’ve got a growing shopping list but, after not quite 4 hours work, we’ve come a long way.

 

[wuvvum]

Nice work.  A-serieseses rarely take much starting, even after standing for ages.  Great little engines.

[SiC]

Yeah the A-series in my 1100 started absolutely sweetly on the first turn of the key. Way better than the B-series my MGB which takes a fair bit of cranking and a dance with the throttle + choke - something that many b-series seem to require.

 

You were quite hard on the accelerator on a cold and a not recently run engine though!

[Brodders]

Nice work to both you and Alf on getting so much done so quickly.

 

Although you say there is a lot to do, this is progressing very well. I reckon it will be on the road in no time at all if there aren't any nasty surprises.

[PhilA]

Yeah the A-series in my 1100 started absolutely sweetly on the first turn of the key. Way better than the B-series my MGB which takes a fair bit of cranking and a dance with the throttle + choke - something that many b-series seem to require.You were quite hard on the accelerator on a cold and a not recently run engine though!

Yes, they're often so willing to run they'll carry on happily for a while after you switch them off, too.

[SiC]

Yes, they're often so willing to run they'll carry on happily for a while after you switch them off, too.

Funnily enough my wifes uncle was telling me about that earlier today, on his 1100 he had way back when they were a fair bit newer.

[BorniteIdentity]

You were quite hard on the accelerator on a cold and a not recently run engine though!

 

You wouldn't enjoy the road test video then.

[BorniteIdentity]

A question if I may.

 

I need to replace the two flasher units under the bonnet. They’re both rusty AF, one has a broken pin and atm I’ve got no hazards or indicators.

 

OEM Lucas flashers are £5.

 

However, nobody seems to list the base for one of these. Seeing as they’re rusted to fuck, and one has a pin stuck in it, I was hoping to replace these too - rather than just buy the flashers, discover I’ve still no lights and then have further delay.

 

Any tips? It’s a 1984 Mini so 2 pin flashers.

[Ben_O]

Is it the type that plugs onto a black plastic connector that slides over a screw head on the bulkhead?

[Rusty_Rocket]

If they're really bad, I usually cut the old plug off and crimp female spade connectors onto the wires.  Then the flasher unit plugs straight in.  Not for the concourse restoration but otherwise fine (and it's all hidden behind the manky sound deadening foam anyway!)

[alf892]

Yeah the A-series in my 1100 started absolutely sweetly on the first turn of the key. Way better than the B-series my MGB which takes a fair bit of cranking and a dance with the throttle + choke - something that many b-series seem to require.

 

You were quite hard on the accelerator on a cold and a not recently run engine though!

 

Good point ! but Mr B had had spent quite some time spinning it over on the starter by the time it ran...…..and the oil is surprisingly clean. In fact it does look like it was well looked after (mechanically anyway)before being laid up. Everywhere is well greased and even the handbrake quadrant are free.

 

In fact all work required is due to being stood really......and rust of course!

 

Its a nice car...……….

[Zelandeth]

Guess it does show that being really unlikely doesn't necessarily mean impossible.

 

I don't know why, but I still keep a tiny hope alive that my first proper car, a very early Snapdragon Yellow MiniMetro HLE, NSA240W will suddenly reappear somewhere. Sold it in 2004-ish and it promptly disappeared without trace - have always assumed for scrap despite being a clean example. Still kick myself for selling it, and know I'll never manage to get another as prices have gone mental now.

 

If I found it though...yeah, I'd struggle to justify not buying it!

 

She was one that really liked to run on - had to stall it on quite a few warm afternoons after a long run.

 

I've still never even driven an original Mini though somehow!

[BorniteIdentity]

The piggy bank is empty. By that, I mean completely devoid of funds. Even next door’s cat took one look at our fridge and promptly buggered off back home again. That said, the key to making progress with this little Mini is ‘little and often’. Whenever I find myself with a spare 30 minutes or whatever I do try to achieve something - no matter how modest.

 

Today it was bath time. She hasn’t been washed in, I would guess, 15 years. It’s going to take a few good scrubs to bring the decent panels up to scratch, so we gave the whole car a quick dip, and then I focused in on the roof.

 

 

A cliché I know, but you forget how small these are. They really take no time at all. Within an hour we had the car washed (a bit), dried, and polished (partially).

 

I bought this polisher last year to aid the sale of a rather pink Audi 80 I briefly owned. It did a great job on that, so I thought I’d start with the roof of the Mini and see if we couldn’t drum up another miracle. I held out no hope, because “he who doesn’t aim, doesn’t miss”.

 

But look!

 

 

 

 

 

I’m absolutely delighted. I know there are some members who’d keep it absolutely as it is, but I do like to be reasonably proud of my cars. There will still be plenty of rust, pitting and filler on the car for years yet - but what I can do, I will.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SiC]

How far is the nearest garage that does MOTs? Wondering if its worth bunging it in for a test to see what needs doing. Providing it starts and stops ok right now.

[BorniteIdentity]

How far is the nearest garage that does MOTs? Wondering if its worth bunging it in for a test to see what needs doing. Providing it starts and stops ok right now.

3 miles. I nipped in there today with the keys to my wife’s Fiat 500 which is being tested tomorrow.

 

Things that will need to be done before even attempting are:

 

1. Brakes. Nothing on the foot pedal at all. Master Cylinder to be ordered on payday unless I can convince Mini-Spares to give me an account through my own limited company.

 

2. Hazards and Indicators dead. Suspect broken flasher units and relay bases.

 

3. Number plates. Probably need a set made for tests, until I can get some dealer replicas made.

 

4. Sill isn’t brilliantly attached. If that’s all that’s remaining then I might ask him to test it before I take it to the welder in case anything else shows up.

 

Other than that it’s a lot of minor stuff like flexi hoses being perished and tyres that are plastic. Likely pass/advise but would want them doing anyway.

[Mally]

Drat I was just going to write most of that!

CV boot, front to rear brake pipe, top and/or bottom ball joint?

[BorniteIdentity]

Alf892 was inspecting the undercarriage whilst I was at the motor spares place, but from memory he said the actual brake pipes were sound.

 

Another thing I want to do is replace the fuel line front to back too.

[Ben_O]

 unless I can convince Mini-Spares to give me an account through my own limited company.

 

I use Minispares for a lot of my stuff (I run a classic car restoration workshop specializing in Mini's) and the best they can do is a 10% trade discount. Not a hope of an account sadly.

 

that roof came up nicely!

[Zelandeth]

Alf892 was inspecting the undercarriage whilst I was at the motor spares place, but from memory he said the actual brake pipes were sound.

 

Another thing I want to do is replace the fuel line front to back too.

Given the experiences I've had in the last few years with fuel lines I'd suggest ordering in some A1 Marine rated fuel hose for this... especially as I recall the fuel line runs quite close to the exhaust manifold. Aside from being ethanol resistant, the A1 hose is a lot more head and abrasion resistant too, and with a bit of luck should last a good long while.

[Angrydicky]

You could always strip, clean and reseal the master cylinder depending on the condition of the bore. A seal kit is a fraction of the cost of a new cylinder. Worth a try?

[alf892]

Drat I was just going to write most of that!

CV boot, front to rear brake pipe, top and/or bottom ball joint?

Brake pipes are amazingly good........needs a set of wheel cylinders though so care needed to free off the pipe nut from the actual pipe when doing those.

 

All front ball joints also good. Track rod ends buggered and steering rack boots turning to dust.

 

CV boots good at moment....may fail once it gets driven though.

 

I suggested new brake master for reliability really as not expensive.......all flexis are buggered so intention is to fully rebuild the brakes with new linings as well. I like being able to stop.